Front axel replacement

[jdavidsmi]

I have torn into the right side hub to replace the spindle bearing, a simple little project. The drive shaft was a bit loose so I figured it was the bearing. As it turned out the race way on the shaft for the spindle bearing is worn. The only solution I can find, is to replace the shaft. I have never opened a front differential on any truck I ever owned so I have lots of questions. Thanks in advance.

This is the Dana 44 1984 version with the axel retaining clips inside the differential.

Can the outer shaft and u-joint be replaced without opening the differential? I have a ball joint replacement tool to press out the u-joint.

If I have to open the differential,how do you support it while pulling the retaining clip? Strapped to the jack?

Should I replace the seal where the inter axel goes into the differential? Probably a good idea to.

How far can the differential be moved? Is it rotated? I have studied this for the past 3 days, both looking at the axel in the truck and the documents here. And still don’t have a good idea.

I will be grateful on any directions on this.

The new axel, spindle, spindle bearing kit, and wheel bearing set, should be here today. The inter axel appears to be in good shape.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

The passenger side can come out without cracking the diff open if it has the external retaining plate.

There are two types of retention on a D44, and I don't know exactly which ones are held in with a triangle bolt pattern plate at the output seal.

So, either it yanks out and you drop the clip inside or you've got to remove those three little bolts.

I'd say it's a good time to change that gear oil, but it's never really a good time to get in way deeper than you want to.

[Gary Lewis]

The passenger side can come out without cracking the diff open if it has the external retaining plate.

There are two types of retention on a D44, and I don't know exactly which ones are held in with a triangle bolt pattern plate at the output seal.

So, either it yanks out and you drop the clip inside or you've got to remove those three little bolts.

I'd say it's a good time to change that gear oil, but it's never really a good time to get in way deeper than you want to.

If you already have figured out that yours has the internal snap ring, which it should as an '84, then the differential would have to come out to pull the stub shaft.

However, there's a slip joint, 3L387 in the drawing below, that should let you pull the outer shaft w/o pulling the inner one. Have you tried that?

[myrl883]

If you already have figured out that yours has the internal snap ring, which it should as an '84, then the differential would have to come out to pull the stub shaft.

However, there's a slip joint, 3L387 in the drawing below, that should let you pull the outer shaft w/o pulling the inner one. Have you tried that?

At the dealer level, we did it as Gary suggested. There's a boot on the slip joint - take a clamp off and slide it apart there, leaving the inner stub joint with the differential.

[Nothing Special]

I have torn into the right side hub to replace the spindle bearing, a simple little project. The drive shaft was a bit loose so I figured it was the bearing. As it turned out the race way on the shaft for the spindle bearing is worn. The only solution I can find, is to replace the shaft. I have never opened a front differential on any truck I ever owned so I have lots of questions. Thanks in advance.

This is the Dana 44 1984 version with the axel retaining clips inside the differential.

Can the outer shaft and u-joint be replaced without opening the differential? I have a ball joint replacement tool to press out the u-joint.

Gary and myrl883 already answered this, but yes. Pull the outer two sections of the right front axle out after removing one of the "hose clamps" on the slip joint boot. Before you pull it out you might want to note the orientation of the U-joints to duplicate it when you put it back together.

Since you don't need to take the diff out the rest of your questions are moot. but since you asked...

If I have to open the differential,how do you support it while pulling the retaining clip? Strapped to the jack?

Take the right side apart as described already, remove the left spindle and pull the left side axle out. Then remove all of the bolts that hold the diff housing on. This includes a big one (or two?) on the driver's side as well as the "diff cover" bolts through the driver's side swing arm.

On my F-250 I had to support the truck frame and let the axles droop to get enough clearance to pull the diff out of the truck. But the whole thing will come out, including the last section of the right axle. Then you set it on your work bench while you pull the clip.

Should I replace the seal where the inter axel goes into the differential? Probably a good idea to.

I could be wrong about this, but I don't think you can replace the seal without removing the differential from its housing. And you don't want to do that unless you absolutely need to. I know that I didn't replace the seal when I had my front axle apart a year or two ago (I needed to replace all three U-joints). It wasn't leaking before so I figured it was probably OK.

How far can the differential be moved? Is it rotated? I have studied this for the past 3 days, both looking at the axel in the truck and the documents here. And still don’t have a good idea....

I'm not sure what you are asking for here. The entire differential comes out together, with everything still in the cast housing. You can move anything you want as much as you want. Just don't remove the bearing caps. That starts the process of removing the diff from the cast housing, which you don't want to do unless you have to. Reassembling it isn't rocket science, but it pretty much does fit into the "if you have to ask if you can, then you probably can't" category. (Which is not to say that if you haven't done it before you can't. Even if you haven't done it before, if you are confident that you can figure out how to set up gears then you probably can. Again, it's not rocket science. But most people who've done it once realize why it costs so much to have a shop do it. And a lot of people choose not to do it a second time.)

[Gary Lewis]

I have torn into the right side hub to replace the spindle bearing, a simple little project. The drive shaft was a bit loose so I figured it was the bearing. As it turned out the race way on the shaft for the spindle bearing is worn. The only solution I can find, is to replace the shaft. I have never opened a front differential on any truck I ever owned so I have lots of questions. Thanks in advance.

This is the Dana 44 1984 version with the axel retaining clips inside the differential.

Can the outer shaft and u-joint be replaced without opening the differential? I have a ball joint replacement tool to press out the u-joint.

Gary and myrl883 already answered this, but yes. Pull the outer two sections of the right front axle out after removing one of the "hose clamps" on the slip joint boot. Before you pull it out you might want to note the orientation of the U-joints to duplicate it when you put it back together.

Since you don't need to take the diff out the rest of your questions are moot. but since you asked...

If I have to open the differential,how do you support it while pulling the retaining clip? Strapped to the jack?

Take the right side apart as described already, remove the left spindle and pull the left side axle out. Then remove all of the bolts that hold the diff housing on. This includes a big one (or two?) on the driver's side as well as the "diff cover" bolts through the driver's side swing arm.

On my F-250 I had to support the truck frame and let the axles droop to get enough clearance to pull the diff out of the truck. But the whole thing will come out, including the last section of the right axle. Then you set it on your work bench while you pull the clip.

Should I replace the seal where the inter axel goes into the differential? Probably a good idea to.

I could be wrong about this, but I don't think you can replace the seal without removing the differential from its housing. And you don't want to do that unless you absolutely need to. I know that I didn't replace the seal when I had my front axle apart a year or two ago (I needed to replace all three U-joints). It wasn't leaking before so I figured it was probably OK.

How far can the differential be moved? Is it rotated? I have studied this for the past 3 days, both looking at the axel in the truck and the documents here. And still don’t have a good idea....

I'm not sure what you are asking for here. The entire differential comes out together, with everything still in the cast housing. You can move anything you want as much as you want. Just don't remove the bearing caps. That starts the process of removing the diff from the cast housing, which you don't want to do unless you have to. Reassembling it isn't rocket science, but it pretty much does fit into the "if you have to ask if you can, then you probably can't" category. (Which is not to say that if you haven't done it before you can't. Even if you haven't done it before, if you are confident that you can figure out how to set up gears then you probably can. Again, it's not rocket science. But most people who've done it once realize why it costs so much to have a shop do it. And a lot of people choose not to do it a second time.)

I've heard that to pull the diff out of a D44 you have to slightly spread the case. It isn't something I'd do if I didn't have to.

[Nothing Special]

I've heard that to pull the diff out of a D44 you have to slightly spread the case. It isn't something I'd do if I didn't have to.

I changed diffs in my Bronco's front Dana 44. No case spreader, just pry bars to get it out and a big hammer and block of wood to put it in. A case spreader would be easier, but a lot more expensive.

And I expect I will do it again. But I get why it's expensive and why people are willing to pay for it to be done.

[Gary Lewis]

I've heard that to pull the diff out of a D44 you have to slightly spread the case. It isn't something I'd do if I didn't have to.

I changed diffs in my Bronco's front Dana 44. No case spreader, just pry bars to get it out and a big hammer and block of wood to put it in. A case spreader would be easier, but a lot more expensive.

And I expect I will do it again. But I get why it's expensive and why people are willing to pay for it to be done.

Good to know. Thanks!

[jdavidsmi]

I've heard that to pull the diff out of a D44 you have to slightly spread the case. It isn't something I'd do if I didn't have to.

I changed diffs in my Bronco's front Dana 44. No case spreader, just pry bars to get it out and a big hammer and block of wood to put it in. A case spreader would be easier, but a lot more expensive.

And I expect I will do it again. But I get why it's expensive and why people are willing to pay for it to be done.

Thanks for the information, while I was looking at Gary’s post I realize I missed the slip joint all together.

Today I will be back at it, all the parts came in yesterday. While I have it apart I decided to replace the front brake pads, the rotors are in good shape.

Got everything cleaned up yesterday so I think everything is ready.

Thanks again everyone.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for the information, while I was looking at Gary’s post I realize I missed the slip joint all together.

Today I will be back at it, all the parts came in yesterday. While I have it apart I decided to replace the front brake pads, the rotors are in good shape.

Got everything cleaned up yesterday so I think everything is ready.

Thanks again everyone.

Good!

My experience with that slip joint was that it took a lot of force to get it to come apart. And you don't have a lot of room in which to work. Hope it comes apart for you. Or, maybe it already has?