Gary Lewis Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 The advance is on ported vacuum. Timing is around 10-11* Ok, then I'm at a loss. I still think you have a vacuum leak. But I think we need to get someone else to jump in to help. I'm out of suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 Ok, then I'm at a loss. I still think you have a vacuum leak. But I think we need to get someone else to jump in to help. I'm out of suggestions. Smoke it... or smoke the crankcase and see if it is -indeed- a valley leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weberman Posted June 21, 2020 Author Share Posted June 21, 2020 Ok, then I'm at a loss. I still think you have a vacuum leak. But I think we need to get someone else to jump in to help. I'm out of suggestions. Yeah I've sprayed around the carb base, vacuum lines, and the fittings and theres no change in idle. I need to get a piece of cardboard for sure but I sprayed the port on the back of the carb for a little bit and it reved up at the end, but I think it was the spray that close and long finally going into the intake. Need to double check like I said. I guess that leaves valley. Wouldn't think that both times it was idiling high since I bought it from a guy and then I redid it, but who knows at this point. Come to think of it, in the video it was idling fine, but it had the Ford tbi on it, not the carb I had. It's pretty well a new carb. Its sat a couple years from getting a different motor in with me going to school and with me taking the parts out and ultrasonic cleaning them I think it would be good but I'm wondering if it somehow has a part in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Yeah I've sprayed around the carb base, vacuum lines, and the fittings and theres no change in idle. I need to get a piece of cardboard for sure but I sprayed the port on the back of the carb for a little bit and it reved up at the end, but I think it was the spray that close and long finally going into the intake. Need to double check like I said. I guess that leaves valley. Wouldn't think that both times it was idiling high since I bought it from a guy and then I redid it, but who knows at this point. Come to think of it, in the video it was idling fine, but it had the Ford tbi on it, not the carb I had. It's pretty well a new carb. Its sat a couple years from getting a different motor in with me going to school and with me taking the parts out and ultrasonic cleaning them I think it would be good but I'm wondering if it somehow has a part in it. Jim suggested the smoke test. But if the leak is from the valley in it might take a lot of smoke. If you put it into the carb, say through the PCV hose, you'd watch for it coming out through the PCV opening in the valve cover or the breather tube going up to the carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weberman Posted June 24, 2020 Author Share Posted June 24, 2020 Jim suggested the smoke test. But if the leak is from the valley in it might take a lot of smoke. If you put it into the carb, say through the PCV hose, you'd watch for it coming out through the PCV opening in the valve cover or the breather tube going up to the carb. Are there any home made smoke testers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 Are there any home made smoke testers? Yep. David/1986F150Six made his own. He pulled the air cleaner and found something that would go down over the carb to seal it. Got a Swisher Sweet and blew smoke into one of the vacuum lines - maybe the PCV or brake booster with the place where it came off of plugged. It think he said it took two puffs for it to start coming out where a vacuum line was cracked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 Yep. David/1986F150Six made his own. He pulled the air cleaner and found something that would go down over the carb to seal it. Got a Swisher Sweet and blew smoke into one of the vacuum lines - maybe the PCV or brake booster with the place where it came off of plugged. It think he said it took two puffs for it to start coming out where a vacuum line was cracked. Yes, Sir! Two puffs and the leak was evident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weberman Posted July 29, 2020 Author Share Posted July 29, 2020 Yep. David/1986F150Six made his own. He pulled the air cleaner and found something that would go down over the carb to seal it. Got a Swisher Sweet and blew smoke into one of the vacuum lines - maybe the PCV or brake booster with the place where it came off of plugged. It think he said it took two puffs for it to start coming out where a vacuum line was cracked. Hey guys. Been awhile. Started a new job and its hot out so haven't been doing too much on the Bronco since I don't have a shop. Still need to do the smoke test, maybe this weekend because the high is supposed to be like 80. I started it the other day and anything above idle in drive it would die unless you really really really slowly applied more throttle. I'm wondering if the tank isn't just rusty like I somewhat mentioned before and giving me half of my headaches. It seems to act different every time it sits for a few days. The fuel just being dirty/nasty from the tank and causing these problems? Steel or plastic? I would like plastic because of 0 rust ever again but also twice the cost. Can you do anything to the steel tanks to help them? I'm sure today's fuel doesn't help probably with the rust issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Hey guys. Been awhile. Started a new job and its hot out so haven't been doing too much on the Bronco since I don't have a shop. Still need to do the smoke test, maybe this weekend because the high is supposed to be like 80. I started it the other day and anything above idle in drive it would die unless you really really really slowly applied more throttle. I'm wondering if the tank isn't just rusty like I somewhat mentioned before and giving me half of my headaches. It seems to act different every time it sits for a few days. The fuel just being dirty/nasty from the tank and causing these problems? Steel or plastic? I would like plastic because of 0 rust ever again but also twice the cost. Can you do anything to the steel tanks to help them? I'm sure today's fuel doesn't help probably with the rust issue. Considered putting a clear plastic in-line filter and seeing how dirty the fuel is? Ethanol gas can certainly phase separate and cause 'water bottom' I don't seem to have any problem because I drive my truck every day, but you might try a cheap endoscope camera made for cell phones. For me, the $15 peace of mind is FAR better than having to drop a tank. If it is phase separated a $10 gallon of denatured can push the equilibrium back to where you have useable fuel. I'd probably do an accelerator pump volume test before any of this. Edit: I haven't looked back through this thread, so be entitled to tell me I'm a dumba$$ if I'm covering old ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weberman Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 Considered putting a clear plastic in-line filter and seeing how dirty the fuel is? Ethanol gas can certainly phase separate and cause 'water bottom' I don't seem to have any problem because I drive my truck every day, but you might try a cheap endoscope camera made for cell phones. For me, the $15 peace of mind is FAR better than having to drop a tank. If it is phase separated a $10 gallon of denatured can push the equilibrium back to where you have useable fuel. I'd probably do an accelerator pump volume test before any of this. Edit: I haven't looked back through this thread, so be entitled to tell me I'm a dumba$$ if I'm covering old ground. At very first I didn't have a filter on but I put it on when I had that no start/accelerator pump issue(that turned out to be timing but the accelerator pump didn't work either so) Also the accelerator pump isn't working again. Actually only like a week after I cleaned everything and made sure it was working again, nothing comes out at all again. I could drive it like that, just it would stumble for a second but then be fine. This time it was very bad like I said, really really really slow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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