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1982 Bronco XLT


Weberman

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That's one of the many beauties of the 3G - as much current at idle as a 1G has a full tilt. Brighter headlights, better blower speed, etc. Then there's the internal regulator, which may be delayed-start, and on and on. :nabble_smiley_good:

Oh there's so many..forget power, dual internal fan and the bearings are far superior. The only real weakness is the brushes/slip rings. If they could last a little bit longer it would be a contender for best ever.

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The HEI modules need a lot of current and really should have at least a #12 wire run to them, and preferably a #10. Which means there should be a relay brought in by a key-on signal.

Given that much current there's got to be quite a bit of heat. So you might want to provide some kind of heat sink for the module. That's where the DS-module's case could come in handy. Or mount it on some aluminum or sheet metal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-10474610-Ignition-Igniter-Control-Module-Heat-Sink-for-Engine-xz/383397713080?epid=236337376&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item594448d4b8:g:ZHwAAOSwrfFeMpI4&enc=AQAEAAACcIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKpYSzz9%2FsG0TJDO4uQ4aUXC99DBuhFIxerNUFZmNFC2Mz2IcaIr5QYlCFJJD0dW8I1LHABvMvgFmpQTEr21be8nouNERchEhb8FvsJ8Hn81TGH0gYQouGhYylGxDzNcC7W07M3h%2FY1kvDWsV46ebS%2FadV8ShbxkYuwW57upIRSSVOonWspQ9VK47iK%2BnhAjaAAoIhuN7DSny4TBve9s4BBgTlrWUGox0fj896N3zCUrphR9kMhbMQJN%2FUxmCxy1%2BnMMRvx50EiXhw5oVThRO%2FIMbbJmkr6jRwyUuCRxgmN7Qr4U%2FXBLorw4wx2QYW3J8vvKD%2BxIEBqNACb6WxbskPEzHW99u%2Fcqrf4JX6M2TAnktVP9k1PdIo7ydqvlPUHZBIeJjq9NLG7uahGKne5OdYLnhKlSbBXdt7Z8%2Fk%2B7HK5f8T666ZtA4jfWjLFTb6Hil1Q8QT%2FPTUSthT%2BTF8UH5gsJo0%2FkMZIs%2FaJmKLKMTLF25gnEuqUPN4J3AW0AxrVJwz4QL5HMDg1ZLfHQl%2BGQNUpLq1On8BAPKdYUqzh62I3PkHI5RrAf1v8JUo8iF%2FcFSmrkUbqODOeEdhCbCPwlvD6F0sygiZ3ScQ%2BRcvaCSa%2B6SU%2BJmwQhKl12CCgaoC0VN4UsFo%2BCZrcNOJdx3iPQ1dpi%2FU%2FUMV73D5zH6zBuUXWL0lV1LQPHDXSAZXiS3W5U5qipfuCq6psd89sdTwciFmomoFWpfe2DlqNfy7m1r9qroZEaWlto9YP3N%2FArKr%2F%2FK6UHh49Kx0jCnJf97TYOThdg%3D%3D&checksum=383397713080fd1acef7452540ea994b04e3a7103365

 

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The HEI modules need a lot of current and really should have at least a #12 wire run to them, and preferably a #10. Which means there should be a relay brought in by a key-on signal.

Given that much current there's got to be quite a bit of heat. So you might want to provide some kind of heat sink for the module. That's where the DS-module's case could come in handy. Or mount it on some aluminum or sheet metal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-10474610-Ignition-Igniter-Control-Module-Heat-Sink-for-Engine-xz/383397713080?epid=236337376&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item594448d4b8:g:ZHwAAOSwrfFeMpI4&enc=AQAEAAACcIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKpYSzz9%2FsG0TJDO4uQ4aUXC99DBuhFIxerNUFZmNFC2Mz2IcaIr5QYlCFJJD0dW8I1LHABvMvgFmpQTEr21be8nouNERchEhb8FvsJ8Hn81TGH0gYQouGhYylGxDzNcC7W07M3h%2FY1kvDWsV46ebS%2FadV8ShbxkYuwW57upIRSSVOonWspQ9VK47iK%2BnhAjaAAoIhuN7DSny4TBve9s4BBgTlrWUGox0fj896N3zCUrphR9kMhbMQJN%2FUxmCxy1%2BnMMRvx50EiXhw5oVThRO%2FIMbbJmkr6jRwyUuCRxgmN7Qr4U%2FXBLorw4wx2QYW3J8vvKD%2BxIEBqNACb6WxbskPEzHW99u%2Fcqrf4JX6M2TAnktVP9k1PdIo7ydqvlPUHZBIeJjq9NLG7uahGKne5OdYLnhKlSbBXdt7Z8%2Fk%2B7HK5f8T666ZtA4jfWjLFTb6Hil1Q8QT%2FPTUSthT%2BTF8UH5gsJo0%2FkMZIs%2FaJmKLKMTLF25gnEuqUPN4J3AW0AxrVJwz4QL5HMDg1ZLfHQl%2BGQNUpLq1On8BAPKdYUqzh62I3PkHI5RrAf1v8JUo8iF%2FcFSmrkUbqODOeEdhCbCPwlvD6F0sygiZ3ScQ%2BRcvaCSa%2B6SU%2BJmwQhKl12CCgaoC0VN4UsFo%2BCZrcNOJdx3iPQ1dpi%2FU%2FUMV73D5zH6zBuUXWL0lV1LQPHDXSAZXiS3W5U5qipfuCq6psd89sdTwciFmomoFWpfe2DlqNfy7m1r9qroZEaWlto9YP3N%2FArKr%2F%2FK6UHh49Kx0jCnJf97TYOThdg%3D%3D&checksum=383397713080fd1acef7452540ea994b04e3a7103365

It's almost like eBay should have tinyurl on by default...

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The HEI modules need a lot of current and really should have at least a #12 wire run to them, and preferably a #10. Which means there should be a relay brought in by a key-on signal.

Given that much current there's got to be quite a bit of heat. So you might want to provide some kind of heat sink for the module. That's where the DS-module's case could come in handy. Or mount it on some aluminum or sheet metal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-10474610-Ignition-Igniter-Control-Module-Heat-Sink-for-Engine-xz/383397713080?epid=236337376&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item594448d4b8:g:ZHwAAOSwrfFeMpI4&enc=AQAEAAACcIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKpYSzz9%2FsG0TJDO4uQ4aUXC99DBuhFIxerNUFZmNFC2Mz2IcaIr5QYlCFJJD0dW8I1LHABvMvgFmpQTEr21be8nouNERchEhb8FvsJ8Hn81TGH0gYQouGhYylGxDzNcC7W07M3h%2FY1kvDWsV46ebS%2FadV8ShbxkYuwW57upIRSSVOonWspQ9VK47iK%2BnhAjaAAoIhuN7DSny4TBve9s4BBgTlrWUGox0fj896N3zCUrphR9kMhbMQJN%2FUxmCxy1%2BnMMRvx50EiXhw5oVThRO%2FIMbbJmkr6jRwyUuCRxgmN7Qr4U%2FXBLorw4wx2QYW3J8vvKD%2BxIEBqNACb6WxbskPEzHW99u%2Fcqrf4JX6M2TAnktVP9k1PdIo7ydqvlPUHZBIeJjq9NLG7uahGKne5OdYLnhKlSbBXdt7Z8%2Fk%2B7HK5f8T666ZtA4jfWjLFTb6Hil1Q8QT%2FPTUSthT%2BTF8UH5gsJo0%2FkMZIs%2FaJmKLKMTLF25gnEuqUPN4J3AW0AxrVJwz4QL5HMDg1ZLfHQl%2BGQNUpLq1On8BAPKdYUqzh62I3PkHI5RrAf1v8JUo8iF%2FcFSmrkUbqODOeEdhCbCPwlvD6F0sygiZ3ScQ%2BRcvaCSa%2B6SU%2BJmwQhKl12CCgaoC0VN4UsFo%2BCZrcNOJdx3iPQ1dpi%2FU%2FUMV73D5zH6zBuUXWL0lV1LQPHDXSAZXiS3W5U5qipfuCq6psd89sdTwciFmomoFWpfe2DlqNfy7m1r9qroZEaWlto9YP3N%2FArKr%2F%2FK6UHh49Kx0jCnJf97TYOThdg%3D%3D&checksum=383397713080fd1acef7452540ea994b04e3a7103365

That's cool! I didn't know there's a purpose-made heat sink for that.

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The HEI modules need a lot of current and really should have at least a #12 wire run to them, and preferably a #10. Which means there should be a relay brought in by a key-on signal.

Given that much current there's got to be quite a bit of heat. So you might want to provide some kind of heat sink for the module. That's where the DS-module's case could come in handy. Or mount it on some aluminum or sheet metal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-10474610-Ignition-Igniter-Control-Module-Heat-Sink-for-Engine-xz/383397713080?epid=236337376&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item594448d4b8:g:ZHwAAOSwrfFeMpI4&enc=AQAEAAACcIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKpYSzz9%2FsG0TJDO4uQ4aUXC99DBuhFIxerNUFZmNFC2Mz2IcaIr5QYlCFJJD0dW8I1LHABvMvgFmpQTEr21be8nouNERchEhb8FvsJ8Hn81TGH0gYQouGhYylGxDzNcC7W07M3h%2FY1kvDWsV46ebS%2FadV8ShbxkYuwW57upIRSSVOonWspQ9VK47iK%2BnhAjaAAoIhuN7DSny4TBve9s4BBgTlrWUGox0fj896N3zCUrphR9kMhbMQJN%2FUxmCxy1%2BnMMRvx50EiXhw5oVThRO%2FIMbbJmkr6jRwyUuCRxgmN7Qr4U%2FXBLorw4wx2QYW3J8vvKD%2BxIEBqNACb6WxbskPEzHW99u%2Fcqrf4JX6M2TAnktVP9k1PdIo7ydqvlPUHZBIeJjq9NLG7uahGKne5OdYLnhKlSbBXdt7Z8%2Fk%2B7HK5f8T666ZtA4jfWjLFTb6Hil1Q8QT%2FPTUSthT%2BTF8UH5gsJo0%2FkMZIs%2FaJmKLKMTLF25gnEuqUPN4J3AW0AxrVJwz4QL5HMDg1ZLfHQl%2BGQNUpLq1On8BAPKdYUqzh62I3PkHI5RrAf1v8JUo8iF%2FcFSmrkUbqODOeEdhCbCPwlvD6F0sygiZ3ScQ%2BRcvaCSa%2B6SU%2BJmwQhKl12CCgaoC0VN4UsFo%2BCZrcNOJdx3iPQ1dpi%2FU%2FUMV73D5zH6zBuUXWL0lV1LQPHDXSAZXiS3W5U5qipfuCq6psd89sdTwciFmomoFWpfe2DlqNfy7m1r9qroZEaWlto9YP3N%2FArKr%2F%2FK6UHh49Kx0jCnJf97TYOThdg%3D%3D&checksum=383397713080fd1acef7452540ea994b04e3a7103365

Thats the one I have around here somewhere..gotta find it.

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Thats the one I have around here somewhere..gotta find it.

Got the starter in and its much happier. I'll probably do the alternator whenever I make new battery cables. Next thing is to make this switch work in the dash to roll the back window down and get this transfer case stick to move.

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Got the starter in and its much happier. I'll probably do the alternator whenever I make new battery cables. Next thing is to make this switch work in the dash to roll the back window down and get this transfer case stick to move.

The starter was a PMGR - right? Glad it worked out for you.

How do you make battery cables? Crimp? Solder? What size?

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The starter was a PMGR - right? Glad it worked out for you.

How do you make battery cables? Crimp? Solder? What size?

Yeah it was a PMGR. I think the direct drive was worn out a bit too because it was slow, even by its standard.

I crimp battery cables. Its how we made them at the starter and alternator shop and I got my own crimper after I left. I leave the wire bare and use adhesive heat shrink vs putting stuff inside and normal heat shrink.

Haven't totally made my mind up on cable size. When I went to the pick n pull, there was a diesel truck up there that I was gonna try and get cables from but theres actually a decent amount of cables missing.

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Got the starter in and its much happier. I'll probably do the alternator whenever I make new battery cables. Next thing is to make this switch work in the dash to roll the back window down and get this transfer case stick to move.

Transfer case linkages get all rusted up if they don't get used.

If you have the rubber 'spring' on the sideways deflection I suggest against PB Blaster because they turn to mud.

Was it you that had the lockout switch inside the tailgate busted?

If you're sure the tracks are clear you might try jumpering that safety out.

Could be bad just from sitting.

Anyway, looking good! :nabble_smiley_good:

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Transfer case linkages get all rusted up if they don't get used.

If you have the rubber 'spring' on the sideways deflection I suggest against PB Blaster because they turn to mud.

Was it you that had the lockout switch inside the tailgate busted?

If you're sure the tracks are clear you might try jumpering that safety out.

Could be bad just from sitting.

Anyway, looking good! :nabble_smiley_good:

I have to get underneath and see. The previous owner said that the transfer case was bad? But I've shifted it into 4x4 and out a couple times before it got stuck and 4x4 was definitely working

I'm not sure what the back window's deal is. It rolled up when I jumped it. It was down when I bought it. I'm sure its probably the switch and just need to see. I'm assuming I can push it in further and then test for voltage at the back? Its been awhile since I've seen that metal

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