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1982 Bronco XLT


Weberman

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Before buying a regulator I'd call Edelbrock's tech support and tell them what carb and pump you have and see if they think it can be too much pressure. They may say I'm all wet, in which case don't spend the money.

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Is this a correct box for the wiper delay? I noticed in the pic in the write it had the same middle numbers but none of the outside ones. Im guessing I'll have to find a switch too, someone already took it out.

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Screenshot_20201121-084633_Gallery.jpg

Is this a correct box for the wiper delay? I noticed in the pic in the write it had the same middle numbers but none of the outside ones. Im guessing I'll have to find a switch too, someone already took it out.

Yes, it is. If you note in the pic in the writeup (Documentation/Electrical/Windshield Wipers) that the E0TZ and AA are painted on, but that the 17C476 is stamped in. The one you found initially would have had a prefix and a suffix painted on it, but they are worn off or covered up.

As the writeup says: Note that the module shown is the 1980 version, as shown by the E0TF prefix on the engineering number. There are at least three other later versions that will work - a 1984 (E4), a 1987 version (E7), and a 1990 version (F0).

Screenshot_20201121-084616_Gallery.thumb.jpg.77d3cecd6d014ea6dcc4cf76edc1ac78.jpg

 

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Yes, it is. If you note in the pic in the writeup (Documentation/Electrical/Windshield Wipers) that the E0TZ and AA are painted on, but that the 17C476 is stamped in. The one you found initially would have had a prefix and a suffix painted on it, but they are worn off or covered up.

As the writeup says: Note that the module shown is the 1980 version, as shown by the E0TF prefix on the engineering number. There are at least three other later versions that will work - a 1984 (E4), a 1987 version (E7), and a 1990 version (F0).

I think I have an F0 in my truck.

They are all pretty much the same until Ford went with putting everything in the turn signal lever.

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Yes, it is. If you note in the pic in the writeup (Documentation/Electrical/Windshield Wipers) that the E0TZ and AA are painted on, but that the 17C476 is stamped in. The one you found initially would have had a prefix and a suffix painted on it, but they are worn off or covered up.

As the writeup says: Note that the module shown is the 1980 version, as shown by the E0TF prefix on the engineering number. There are at least three other later versions that will work - a 1984 (E4), a 1987 version (E7), and a 1990 version (F0).

Yeah I thought it would be the same since I saw that a 1990 (which is what this came out of) would work and it had the same part without the paint but wanted to double check before I picked it up and it didnt work.

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  • 1 month later...

Yeah I thought it would be the same since I saw that a 1990 (which is what this came out of) would work and it had the same part without the paint but wanted to double check before I picked it up and it didnt work.

Some new progress.

Haven't done too much with the holidays and getting cooler and not wanting to do too much outside after work.

I took the carb off to get the gasket, metal plate, gasket out of there like the tech said. I noticed that it had near the same imprint that the old gasket did on where it met the intake manifold, there were gaps in the middle. Nonetheless, I picked up a carb spacer to tape over to eliminate any leaks from the carb and to have it access both sides of the intake since its a dual plane. I put it on and it leaked from underneath. I took it off and thought to get a sheet of sand paper and use the spacer as my flat surface. It has been taking awhile but the leak has been getting better. When I sand, I noticed in the middle of the side doesn't have many scratch makes and its starting to now finally. I put it on this last time and just a small out of air comes out and I'm blowing through the tube pretty hard.. I believe the intake gaskets to be fine. I can just think that when I used the sander, I went harder on the sides which made them lower.

I also picked up another truck. Who knows what the real story of it is. He had a video of it running and says that the carb is flooding out and wont start til the next morning. Showed up on a Thursday and he decided he wasn't going to sell, then that night he wanted to after I was already there with cash and trailer. Then he was moving for work and kept dropping the price for it to be gone. Picked it up Saturday and brought it home.

It is a 1983 and the interior is gray/black. Not a huge fan of the red interior and the dash was cracking. One door panel is red and pretty faded, the other is blue and cracked. The 83 somehow has no cracks in the dash and the panels are great. I really bought it to take the dash/panels and both the bumpers and swap them out and then sell that truck. Its also a 4spd 4x4 so I could keep it til I know that the trans is good on the Bronco which is probably what I'll do.

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Some new progress.

Haven't done too much with the holidays and getting cooler and not wanting to do too much outside after work.

I took the carb off to get the gasket, metal plate, gasket out of there like the tech said. I noticed that it had near the same imprint that the old gasket did on where it met the intake manifold, there were gaps in the middle. Nonetheless, I picked up a carb spacer to tape over to eliminate any leaks from the carb and to have it access both sides of the intake since its a dual plane. I put it on and it leaked from underneath. I took it off and thought to get a sheet of sand paper and use the spacer as my flat surface. It has been taking awhile but the leak has been getting better. When I sand, I noticed in the middle of the side doesn't have many scratch makes and its starting to now finally. I put it on this last time and just a small out of air comes out and I'm blowing through the tube pretty hard.. I believe the intake gaskets to be fine. I can just think that when I used the sander, I went harder on the sides which made them lower.

I also picked up another truck. Who knows what the real story of it is. He had a video of it running and says that the carb is flooding out and wont start til the next morning. Showed up on a Thursday and he decided he wasn't going to sell, then that night he wanted to after I was already there with cash and trailer. Then he was moving for work and kept dropping the price for it to be gone. Picked it up Saturday and brought it home.

It is a 1983 and the interior is gray/black. Not a huge fan of the red interior and the dash was cracking. One door panel is red and pretty faded, the other is blue and cracked. The 83 somehow has no cracks in the dash and the panels are great. I really bought it to take the dash/panels and both the bumpers and swap them out and then sell that truck. Its also a 4spd 4x4 so I could keep it til I know that the trans is good on the Bronco which is probably what I'll do.

Congratulations! Another one for your fleet.

If it is something simple to fix you might just flip it when you know your truck is good.

I usually would use a flat file on a surface like that.

At least that's what I do when I find pitting on a timing case.

Cory was stymied by a warped spacer, so don't trust that unless you've checked it against something like a granite countertop.

I'd imagine if you pulled a stud out, that's enough to wrap the carb base as well as move an aluminum intake flange.

So I'd probably be lapping the carb body on some 180 or 120 wet-or-dry as well.

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Congratulations! Another one for your fleet.

If it is something simple to fix you might just flip it when you know your truck is good.

I usually would use a flat file on a surface like that.

At least that's what I do when I find pitting on a timing case.

Cory was stymied by a warped spacer, so don't trust that unless you've checked it against something like a granite countertop.

I'd imagine if you pulled a stud out, that's enough to wrap the carb base as well as move an aluminum intake flange.

So I'd probably be lapping the carb body on some 180 or 120 wet-or-dry as well.

Yeah with the gasket, metal piece, gasket there was spaces on both gaskets so I'll be sanding that too

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Congratulations! Another one for your fleet.

If it is something simple to fix you might just flip it when you know your truck is good.

I usually would use a flat file on a surface like that.

At least that's what I do when I find pitting on a timing case.

Cory was stymied by a warped spacer, so don't trust that unless you've checked it against something like a granite countertop.

I'd imagine if you pulled a stud out, that's enough to wrap the carb base as well as move an aluminum intake flange.

So I'd probably be lapping the carb body on some 180 or 120 wet-or-dry as well.

There was also a Holley 750 DP thrown in with it too the second time I came so I also have one of those now too. It has the factory 2 barrel on it. Like I said he thinks its was getting too much fuel and fouling the plugs and thought it just needed a rebuild but who knows.

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There was also a Holley 750 DP thrown in with it too the second time I came so I also have one of those now too. It has the factory 2 barrel on it. Like I said he thinks its was getting too much fuel and fouling the plugs and thought it just needed a rebuild but who knows.

Got the intake to seal with the spacer yesterday. Cleaning the carb and going the check it for it being flat. Hopefully have it all on tomorrow.

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