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1982 Bronco XLT


Weberman

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Can the gear ratio be decoded from the VIN? It's just raining at the moment so I don't want to get underneath it. I went and looked for the sticker real quick and there's very little of it left. Just a couple specks. I put the rear end up real quick before it really started coming down and tried to count the amount of turns the driveshaft did but don't think that's right, unless it would be half, then it would be 3.

No, the gear ratio can't be determined from the VIN. But it can be from the certification label. Go to the page at Documentation/Specifications/Certification Label. That shows you how to decode the whole label. But if all you want is the axle ration go to Documentation/Specifications/Axel Ratios.

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No, the gear ratio can't be determined from the VIN. But it can be from the certification label. Go to the page at Documentation/Specifications/Certification Label. That shows you how to decode the whole label. But if all you want is the axle ration go to Documentation/Specifications/Axel Ratios.

He just said that there's nothing left of the sticker but a few specks...

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It doesn't "need"

But the vacuum modulator won't force it into a lower gear like the kickdown linkage will.

Do you have ported or manifold vacuum to your distributor advance?

So on the C6 overall. Is there a different modulator? I read something about an adjustable one? Is the kickdown the only thing? Should I do a shift kit?

It's been awhile since I've driven an older automatic. My Powerstroke is a manual and then my Fusion is 2010 and electronic.

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So on the C6 overall. Is there a different modulator? I read something about an adjustable one? Is the kickdown the only thing? Should I do a shift kit?

It's been awhile since I've driven an older automatic. My Powerstroke is a manual and then my Fusion is 2010 and electronic.

Sure there are different modulators.

There are different torque converters.

The kickdown is adjustable (somewhat)

But the C6 is always slipping, and needs a healthy cooler if you are going to beat on it.

I am no automatic transmission expert.

 

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Sure there are different modulators.

There are different torque converters.

The kickdown is adjustable (somewhat)

But the C6 is always slipping, and needs a healthy cooler if you are going to beat on it.

I am no automatic transmission expert.

Do the different modulators help more to downshift and be worthwhile? Or just probably kickdown?

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Do the different modulators help more to downshift and be worthwhile? Or just probably kickdown?

The modulator uses engine vacuum to determine load and modulates line pressures inside the transmission for shift points and band engagement.

I've installed a few B&M shift kits in my day, but I don't know what you're trying to accomplish so I can't be much help.

 

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The modulator uses engine vacuum to determine load and modulates line pressures inside the transmission for shift points and band engagement.

I've installed a few B&M shift kits in my day, but I don't know what you're trying to accomplish so I can't be much help.

I guess the main thing is getting it to downshift first. I'll have to see the shifts but I'm sure I'll want a kit to make them firmer.

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