1982 Bronco XLT

[Gary Lewis]

Hmmm

I got away with using the Edelbrock supplied risers and just a touch of slotting the bolt holes of the factory bracket, I believe.

Performer intake, 650 AVS carb

This post back on FTE shows what I did: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1123180-dads-truck-build-62.html#post11963634. However, it was done when the engine was in Rusty, so I'd have to go to his thread to find the post about doing it. Can if you need it.

[Weberman]

This post back on FTE shows what I did: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1123180-dads-truck-build-62.html#post11963634. However, it was done when the engine was in Rusty, so I'd have to go to his thread to find the post about doing it. Can if you need it.

I have one that comes of one of the carb studs. Like I said I think I have a factory bracket where the 2 barrel intake is. Hopefuly I can find it.

[Gary Lewis]

I have one that comes of one of the carb studs. Like I said I think I have a factory bracket where the 2 barrel intake is. Hopefuly I can find it.

I found the post on FTE where I modified the throttle bracket for Rusty. Here's the text from it:

The problem has been that with the Edelbrock intake manifold the throttle bracket had the linkage too far forward, especially for the Holley, so the first half of the pedal travel did nothing and all the movement was in the last half. However, it was opening the throttle fully. I compared the two carbs and while the Holley needed the bracket to move back about an inch, the Edelbrock only needed it back 1/2" or so.

Since I want to be able to put the Holley back on I decided to set the linkage up to be just right for the Edelbrock, which will mean the Holley's throttle will be better than it was but not perfect. So, I put the bracket in the band saw and cut it off sorta in the middle and tack welded a 1/8" piece of strap on the bottom. Then I mounted that on the manifold, put the other piece as well as the throttle cable on, moved things around until I got it where I wanted it, and clamped it. Back to the vise and a few welds later and I had a revised bracket, as shown in the attached photo. It isn't pretty, but the idea was to see how it worked first and pretty it up later. And, given how the throttle felt I'd say it is ready for prettification.

And here's the cobbled-together results. The two holes on the left take the bolts to hold it to the intake manifold. And on the right you can make out the U that the throttle cable goes down into. And in the middle you can see that the front part of the bracket has been moved ~1/2" towards the front of the truck, meaning right in the pic, and ~1" to the left side of the truck, or up in the pic. That lined the linkage up and took the slack out of it.

[Weberman]

I have one that comes of one of the carb studs. Like I said I think I have a factory bracket where the 2 barrel intake is. Hopefuly I can find it.

Been busy the last week with replacing my trucks AC system. In that time the bronco pretty well sat. The accelerator pump isn't working again, but seems to be good if you slowly let it open up. Does the tank need to be cleaned or something?

[Gary Lewis]

Been busy the last week with replacing my trucks AC system. In that time the bronco pretty well sat. The accelerator pump isn't working again, but seems to be good if you slowly let it open up. Does the tank need to be cleaned or something?

If the accelerator pump isn't working on an Edelbrock it could be either clogged discharge nozzles or a clogged check ball. Debris in the tank can do that, so if you find that's the case then you either need to put another filter on or clean/replace the tank.

I've been successful in cutting down on the crud coming through by running one of the see-through plastic filters ahead of the fuel pump. But, in reality the better thing to do is to get rid of the crud. And the best way to do that is to replace the tank. They only cost ~$100.

I tried cleaning a tank once by sloshing 3 - 4 gallons of gas in the tank along with a chain to break up the crud. Poured that out and added another 3 or so gallons and went again. And again, and again. I think we went through 15 - 20 gallons of gas, which at the time was about $50, and at the end we were still getting crud out. But I put the tank back on and pretty quickly clogged the accelerator pump discharge nozzles.

That's when I put the 2nd filter on ahead of the pump, and that cut down on the plugging problem.

But if I were doing it again I'd put in a new tank and know I have a clean system.

[Weberman]

If the accelerator pump isn't working on an Edelbrock it could be either clogged discharge nozzles or a clogged check ball. Debris in the tank can do that, so if you find that's the case then you either need to put another filter on or clean/replace the tank.

I've been successful in cutting down on the crud coming through by running one of the see-through plastic filters ahead of the fuel pump. But, in reality the better thing to do is to get rid of the crud. And the best way to do that is to replace the tank. They only cost ~$100.

I tried cleaning a tank once by sloshing 3 - 4 gallons of gas in the tank along with a chain to break up the crud. Poured that out and added another 3 or so gallons and went again. And again, and again. I think we went through 15 - 20 gallons of gas, which at the time was about $50, and at the end we were still getting crud out. But I put the tank back on and pretty quickly clogged the accelerator pump discharge nozzles.

That's when I put the 2nd filter on ahead of the pump, and that cut down on the plugging problem.

But if I were doing it again I'd put in a new tank and know I have a clean system.

I know when I just cleaned it all I took the plunger off, squirted carb cleaner in there and shoved the plunger down and I saw the ball come up and all was well. Maybe I'll look into a filter or two and then maybe a plastic tank..

[ArdWrknTrk]

I know when I just cleaned it all I took the plunger off, squirted carb cleaner in there and shoved the plunger down and I saw the ball come up and all was well. Maybe I'll look into a filter or two and then maybe a plastic tank..

Is the umbrella soft and pliable?

I know when I rebuilt my AVS the kit plunger had a plastic stem.

That didn't last two years, and I had to replace it with a much better one with brass stem and blue rubber.

[Gary Lewis]

Is the umbrella soft and pliable?

I know when I rebuilt my AVS the kit plunger had a plastic stem.

That didn't last two years, and I had to replace it with a much better one with brass stem and blue rubber.

That's a good point, Jim. Sometimes the plunger breaks. Should be inspected.

[Weberman]

I know when I just cleaned it all I took the plunger off, squirted carb cleaner in there and shoved the plunger down and I saw the ball come up and all was well. Maybe I'll look into a filter or two and then maybe a plastic tank..

Well I found some 2 gauge cable and it was the perfect length for the alternator. So I went ahead and put the 3G on there. Had to do a little bit of bracket modification with my accessory bracket setup, but it wasn't bad. If I got the 90 amp it probably would've been okay. I got a 130 and the rear case thru bolt hump was hitting the bracket. I just grinded the bracket a little bit all the way across and it allowed just the little bit I needed to get the belt on. I messed with the throttle bracket and its seems to be good now. Still idles high I think. I need to get a tach and see (been hoping for a relatively cheap factory one). I just don't get that lope that I think i should with the cam, which why I think its still high. Its lower, but I dont think low enough. I even took the cable off to see and it wouldn't go lower. I can see a clear gap from the idle screw, its backed out that far. The motor has decent vacuum so I don't think there is a leak. Plus I sprayed around the base and hoses and the idle didn't change.

[Gary Lewis]

Well I found some 2 gauge cable and it was the perfect length for the alternator. So I went ahead and put the 3G on there. Had to do a little bit of bracket modification with my accessory bracket setup, but it wasn't bad. If I got the 90 amp it probably would've been okay. I got a 130 and the rear case thru bolt hump was hitting the bracket. I just grinded the bracket a little bit all the way across and it allowed just the little bit I needed to get the belt on. I messed with the throttle bracket and its seems to be good now. Still idles high I think. I need to get a tach and see (been hoping for a relatively cheap factory one). I just don't get that lope that I think i should with the cam, which why I think its still high. Its lower, but I dont think low enough. I even took the cable off to see and it wouldn't go lower. I can see a clear gap from the idle screw, its backed out that far. The motor has decent vacuum so I don't think there is a leak. Plus I sprayed around the base and hoses and the idle didn't change.

Sounds like you are making good progress.

But, it doesn't take much of a leak to raise the idle. A cracked vacuum line, or one that is off, or even a bad power brake booster can do it. So if you put a tach on it and find that it is idling too high pull all the vacuum lines and plug the ports and see what happens.