ArdWrknTrk Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Yes, it can be made to retard, but you have to build a circuit to do it. DS-II does it on its own. But, HEI gives a hotter spark. So, is it worth it? I dunno. But a heat sink is probably needed. You have lots of current going in, which is good. But it creates heat. Hotter spark how? Full 12V into the coil? Don't tell me more dwell, because once saturated... that's it. Then switching to the E-coil is only putting you back at square one. (Winding ratios, and all) This isn't CDI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Yes, it can be made to retard, but you have to build a circuit to do it. DS-II does it on its own. But, HEI gives a hotter spark. So, is it worth it? I dunno. But a heat sink is probably needed. You have lots of current going in, which is good. But it creates heat. Is a transistor a 'circuit'? Because that's all you'd need, connected to the white wire (plus ground) to use retard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Hotter spark how? Full 12V into the coil? Don't tell me more dwell, because once saturated... that's it. Then switching to the E-coil is only putting you back at square one. (Winding ratios, and all) This isn't CDI. My understanding is that typically an HEI setup runs full battery voltage to the coil and the module sinks it. Not sure what the E-coil does to that in this situation, so I may be wrong there. But the typical use gives a hotter spark - from what I've read. However, I've not done it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Yeah there was still a few blue flakes on the intake so it was good that I got the aluminum paint. It looks really good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 My understanding is that typically an HEI setup runs full battery voltage to the coil and the module sinks it. Not sure what the E-coil does to that in this situation, so I may be wrong there. But the typical use gives a hotter spark - from what I've read. However, I've not done it. The green DuraSpark wire sinks the coil too. But the DS coil will overheat if shown system voltage all the time. People forget that battery rest voltage is about 12.5, and the starter pulls it down, but as soon as you release the key the alternator pushes it to 14.35 or whatever your regulator set point is. So the DuraSpark coil gets about the same voltage all the time (or maybe a little less) but you need to factor actual voltage, not some idealized "12V" system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weberman Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 It's a 1980 Toranado. You can ground the 5th pin to get about 4* retard in turbo applications, using a pressure switch. I'm sure one could figure a way to close that circuit with the (I) terminal and a relay. A heatsink and some paste is a good idea, and the old DSII shell seems ideal because it mounts right up there. I may do it later on to help some, might try some hot starts to see. It still starts good with the old starter, speaking of which. Went to the junkyard the other day and got a starter and alternator. This has always been something I wanted to do since I worked at the starter and alternator shop and got the Bronco. I even made a custom alternator for my SuperDuty but the Bronco had a locked up motor back then so..needed to focus on other things first haha. This was the only starter left on a truck that I was sure of. There was one in the back of a truck that was an auto but since I wasn't for sure that it was, I didn't want to grab it and it be for a manual trans. Plus this one looked a lot better than that one too. Searched all the trucks and all the 300 6s had the alternator taken off, which was still a shot since it needed to be the 130amp version to be the correct mount. Off to the Mustangs I went I found one. This one looked nice and easy to confirm so I did. The brushes still have a slight flat spot on the top so this alternator hasn't been in service long at all. There was also no groove on the slip ring at all and cleaned up nice. Starters aren't as easy to check but I still feel confident with the way it looks, fairly new and not oil soaked so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 I may do it later on to help some, might try some hot starts to see. It still starts good with the old starter, speaking of which. Went to the junkyard the other day and got a starter and alternator. This has always been something I wanted to do since I worked at the starter and alternator shop and got the Bronco. I even made a custom alternator for my SuperDuty but the Bronco had a locked up motor back then so..needed to focus on other things first haha. This was the only starter left on a truck that I was sure of. There was one in the back of a truck that was an auto but since I wasn't for sure that it was, I didn't want to grab it and it be for a manual trans. Plus this one looked a lot better than that one too. Searched all the trucks and all the 300 6s had the alternator taken off, which was still a shot since it needed to be the 130amp version to be the correct mount. Off to the Mustangs I went I found one. This one looked nice and easy to confirm so I did. The brushes still have a slight flat spot on the top so this alternator hasn't been in service long at all. There was also no groove on the slip ring at all and cleaned up nice. Starters aren't as easy to check but I still feel confident with the way it looks, fairly new and not oil soaked so. Looks like a successful shopping day at the breakers! You made a good score there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 I may do it later on to help some, might try some hot starts to see. It still starts good with the old starter, speaking of which. Went to the junkyard the other day and got a starter and alternator. This has always been something I wanted to do since I worked at the starter and alternator shop and got the Bronco. I even made a custom alternator for my SuperDuty but the Bronco had a locked up motor back then so..needed to focus on other things first haha. This was the only starter left on a truck that I was sure of. There was one in the back of a truck that was an auto but since I wasn't for sure that it was, I didn't want to grab it and it be for a manual trans. Plus this one looked a lot better than that one too. Searched all the trucks and all the 300 6s had the alternator taken off, which was still a shot since it needed to be the 130amp version to be the correct mount. Off to the Mustangs I went I found one. This one looked nice and easy to confirm so I did. The brushes still have a slight flat spot on the top so this alternator hasn't been in service long at all. There was also no groove on the slip ring at all and cleaned up nice. Starters aren't as easy to check but I still feel confident with the way it looks, fairly new and not oil soaked so. Good job! The alternator looks almost new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weberman Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 I may do it later on to help some, might try some hot starts to see. It still starts good with the old starter, speaking of which. Went to the junkyard the other day and got a starter and alternator. This has always been something I wanted to do since I worked at the starter and alternator shop and got the Bronco. I even made a custom alternator for my SuperDuty but the Bronco had a locked up motor back then so..needed to focus on other things first haha. This was the only starter left on a truck that I was sure of. There was one in the back of a truck that was an auto but since I wasn't for sure that it was, I didn't want to grab it and it be for a manual trans. Plus this one looked a lot better than that one too. Searched all the trucks and all the 300 6s had the alternator taken off, which was still a shot since it needed to be the 130amp version to be the correct mount. Off to the Mustangs I went I found one. This one looked nice and easy to confirm so I did. The brushes still have a slight flat spot on the top so this alternator hasn't been in service long at all. There was also no groove on the slip ring at all and cleaned up nice. Starters aren't as easy to check but I still feel confident with the way it looks, fairly new and not oil soaked so. I'm happy with it, it'll be nice to have the 130 amp. Little overkill for what I will probably do but, having more amps at idle with the 3G vs the max of the 1G will be nice. Glad the bracket setup that I have allows simple routing but, still a serpentine belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 I'm happy with it, it'll be nice to have the 130 amp. Little overkill for what I will probably do but, having more amps at idle with the 3G vs the max of the 1G will be nice. Glad the bracket setup that I have allows simple routing but, still a serpentine belt. That's one of the many beauties of the 3G - as much current at idle as a 1G has a full tilt. Brighter headlights, better blower speed, etc. Then there's the internal regulator, which may be delayed-start, and on and on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts