1982 Bronco XLT

[Weberman]

I'll go ahead and start a build thread. 1982 Bronco. When I bought it, it had a 302 in it. Ran and drove but had a slight knock. It went away when I was letting it idle when I brought it home. Did a compression test and #1 was dead. Bought a 91 F150 to replace the motor. That motor locked up over the winter. I bought a motor off of Facebook. Got it in and a rocker came off, had to take the head off and to replace a valve. Got it back together and its all good at the moment. Definitely needs some suspension replaced before it can be driven on the road long distances.

Here it is when it was sitting at the previous owners house.

Here is a pic of it with different rims and tires and the newest motor in it.

The intake manifold was painted blue and the valve covers were chipping. Since I had to have then off for the head, I cleaned them up and repainted. The intake I got as good as I could but I still painted it with aluminum paint.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think aluminum paint may be best (next to Gary's silver lining powdercoat)

I beadblasted my intake and coated with VHT hi-temp clear, but it is starting to yellow.

[Weberman]

I think aluminum paint may be best (next to Gary's silver lining powdercoat)

I beadblasted my intake and coated with VHT hi-temp clear, but it is starting to yellow.

Yeah there was still a few blue flakes on the intake so it was good that I got the aluminum paint.

[Weberman]

Yeah there was still a few blue flakes on the intake so it was good that I got the aluminum paint.

I thought about doing this for a bit but then I was getting a random spark/no spark when I first put this motor in. I eventually noticed epoxy running down the wheel well from the ignition module. Then I did the HEI module. It runs off the full 12v. I used a cheap Duraspark module and cut the ends off to have a cleaner look and hook up to the facotry harness. I used a fuel injection truck coil. I took the terminal out of the negative coil connector. You have to run a positive wire to the coil and the ignition module. Only had it idling before with the duraspark but it seems smoother now. I gapped the plugs a bit more when I had the head off and it seems just fine.

Don't worry about the water, I just washed the engine bay when I took the pic.

[Gary Lewis]

I thought about doing this for a bit but then I was getting a random spark/no spark when I first put this motor in. I eventually noticed epoxy running down the wheel well from the ignition module. Then I did the HEI module. It runs off the full 12v. I used a cheap Duraspark module and cut the ends off to have a cleaner look and hook up to the facotry harness. I used a fuel injection truck coil. I took the terminal out of the negative coil connector. You have to run a positive wire to the coil and the ignition module. Only had it idling before with the duraspark but it seems smoother now. I gapped the plugs a bit more when I had the head off and it seems just fine.

Don't worry about the water, I just washed the engine bay when I took the pic.

Are you saying you put the HEI module in a Duraspark housing? If not, where did you mount it?

[Weberman]

Are you saying you put the HEI module in a Duraspark housing? If not, where did you mount it?

I've thought about taking the housing and mounting the HEI inside there to make it even cleaner. I just cut the wires close as I could on a $15 Chinese unit and used those wires and put terminals on them so it could connect to the factory harness. Right now it is just on a stud I made through one of the holes on the wheel liner.

[Gary Lewis]

I've thought about taking the housing and mounting the HEI inside there to make it even cleaner. I just cut the wires close as I could on a $15 Chinese unit and used those wires and put terminals on them so it could connect to the factory harness. Right now it is just on a stud I made through one of the holes on the wheel liner.

The HEI modules need a lot of current and really should have at least a #12 wire run to them, and preferably a #10. Which means there should be a relay brought in by a key-on signal.

Given that much current there's got to be quite a bit of heat. So you might want to provide some kind of heat sink for the module. That's where the DS-module's case could come in handy. Or mount it on some aluminum or sheet metal.

There have been reports of better performance and MPG with the HEI module, usually associated with larger plug gaps. But one downside is that there's no retard function when starting like the DS-II has, which my previous 460 certainly needed.

[Weberman]

The HEI modules need a lot of current and really should have at least a #12 wire run to them, and preferably a #10. Which means there should be a relay brought in by a key-on signal.

Given that much current there's got to be quite a bit of heat. So you might want to provide some kind of heat sink for the module. That's where the DS-module's case could come in handy. Or mount it on some aluminum or sheet metal.

There have been reports of better performance and MPG with the HEI module, usually associated with larger plug gaps. But one downside is that there's no retard function when starting like the DS-II has, which my previous 460 certainly needed.

Yeah, the way I have it is that the one plug has the distributor and coil wire for the HEI. Then the red and white wires connector powers my relay for all my ignition accessories, fuel pump, choke, coil, HEI. I ran a 8 gauge wire and split it into 2 12s to feed the coil and HEI. I had a heat sink at some point and need to find it. Or buy another and find it the next day how it usually goes.

Theres a 5 pin module that pulls some timing but I'm not sure which year/model it came on.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yeah, the way I have it is that the one plug has the distributor and coil wire for the HEI. Then the red and white wires connector powers my relay for all my ignition accessories, fuel pump, choke, coil, HEI. I ran a 8 gauge wire and split it into 2 12s to feed the coil and HEI. I had a heat sink at some point and need to find it. Or buy another and find it the next day how it usually goes.

Theres a 5 pin module that pulls some timing but I'm not sure which year/model it came on.

It's a 1980 Toranado.

You can ground the 5th pin to get about 4* retard in turbo applications, using a pressure switch.

I'm sure one could figure a way to close that circuit with the (I) terminal and a relay.

A heatsink and some paste is a good idea, and the old DSII shell seems ideal because it mounts right up there.

[Gary Lewis]

It's a 1980 Toranado.

You can ground the 5th pin to get about 4* retard in turbo applications, using a pressure switch.

I'm sure one could figure a way to close that circuit with the (I) terminal and a relay.

A heatsink and some paste is a good idea, and the old DSII shell seems ideal because it mounts right up there.

Yes, it can be made to retard, but you have to build a circuit to do it. DS-II does it on its own. But, HEI gives a hotter spark. So, is it worth it? I dunno.

But a heat sink is probably needed. You have lots of current going in, which is good. But it creates heat.