Hydroboost Planning

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, I would first turn it around so the slot is on the pump. It may go to an exhaust manifold bolt.

This gonna be a looooong post.

Bill - Bingo! The distance from the brace to the block is 1 3/16", which is probably the thickness of that corner of the manifold.

Now to hydroboost specifically. I measured three different brake pedals today and will record the measurements here. These measurements are from the center of the pivot tube to the center of the stud to which the booster attaches, and are done to a 1/16" of an inch as I don't think more precision is required for this:

• Big Blue's F250 pedal" 3 1/2"

• Some other pedal: 4 1/4"

• Hydroboost pedal from a '95 Superduty: 2 3/4"

And now to a little "detail" I didn't expect - 9C962, which is the ADAPTOR (SPEED CONTROL VACUUM VALVE ACTUATOR). It resides on the brake pedal and hits the speed control vacuum dump valve such that when the brake pedal is up the valve is closed. But any movement of the pedal opens the valve and dumps the vacuum to the speed control to disengage it.

Here are what the three different ones I have look like, with the black one in the middle the original one from Big Blue:

Peeking out from under the ruler is the tab on each of those that slips over the stud on the pedal, with the adapter sitting astride the pedal and hitting the valve, like this: (Note the Nylon washer is on the wrong side of the tab.)

You may have seen this coming, but what happens when you move the stud up the pedal 3/4"? Yep, it misses.

Well, perhaps you can move the valve? Like cut the bracket down? Nope, look at the pic above. That valve can't move nearly enough to hit the adapater w/o hitting the pedal bracket first.

So I made an "adapter" - that is somewhat overkill:

And here's what it looks like installed:

Last, the pedals are D.O.N.E! New cruise switch and a working clutch switch installed, as well as a pad "borrowed" from another pedal. The Nylon bushing are in great shape and everything is lubed. All I have to do now is to install it - after adding the firewall brace first.

[ArdWrknTrk]

This gonna be a looooong post.

Bill - Bingo! The distance from the brace to the block is 1 3/16", which is probably the thickness of that corner of the manifold.

Now to hydroboost specifically. I measured three different brake pedals today and will record the measurements here. These measurements are from the center of the pivot tube to the center of the stud to which the booster attaches, and are done to a 1/16" of an inch as I don't think more precision is required for this:

• Big Blue's F250 pedal" 3 1/2"

• Some other pedal: 4 1/4"

• Hydroboost pedal from a '95 Superduty: 2 3/4"

And now to a little "detail" I didn't expect - 9C962, which is the ADAPTOR (SPEED CONTROL VACUUM VALVE ACTUATOR). It resides on the brake pedal and hits the speed control vacuum dump valve such that when the brake pedal is up the valve is closed. But any movement of the pedal opens the valve and dumps the vacuum to the speed control to disengage it.

Here are what the three different ones I have look like, with the black one in the middle the original one from Big Blue:

Peeking out from under the ruler is the tab on each of those that slips over the stud on the pedal, with the adapter sitting astride the pedal and hitting the valve, like this: (Note the Nylon washer is on the wrong side of the tab.)

You may have seen this coming, but what happens when you move the stud up the pedal 3/4"? Yep, it misses.

Well, perhaps you can move the valve? Like cut the bracket down? Nope, look at the pic above. That valve can't move nearly enough to hit the adapater w/o hitting the pedal bracket first.

So I made an "adapter" - that is somewhat overkill:

And here's what it looks like installed:

Last, the pedals are D.O.N.E! New cruise switch and a working clutch switch installed, as well as a pad "borrowed" from another pedal. The Nylon bushing are in great shape and everything is lubed. All I have to do now is to install it - after adding the firewall brace first.

I was going to say you didn't have any firewall reinforcement under that red tape highlighting the Hydroboost lines.

Glad I didn't.

[Gary Lewis]

I was going to say you didn't have any firewall reinforcement under that red tape highlighting the Hydroboost lines.

Glad I didn't.

I can't easily get into the cab because I can't get the doors open very far due to the lift's uprights. I can't get the truck far enough back to get them open much farther, and I doubt I can get it far enough forward to get them past the legs.

So unless I can do that, and I'll try soon, I'll have to wait until the temps come up enough outside so I can open the door enough to stick the bed out under it.

Until that I'll work on other things, and there are plenty of them.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I can't easily get into the cab because I can't get the doors open very far due to the lift's uprights. I can't get the truck far enough back to get them open much farther, and I doubt I can get it far enough forward to get them past the legs.

So unless I can do that, and I'll try soon, I'll have to wait until the temps come up enough outside so I can open the door enough to stick the bed out under it.

Until that I'll work on other things, and there are plenty of them.

Doesn't BB have a sliding rear window???

[Gary Lewis]

Doesn't BB have a sliding rear window???

LOL! Yes, he does. But that would be very, very painful. There's no seat, and given the tool box it would be a problem getting in - and out. And as soon as I got in I'd find I needed another tool.

I can get in via the doors now, but it isn't easy. And what I'd really like to do is to stand on the floor with the truck up a bit so I'm looking up under the dash. But I can't easily get in that position right now with the door only opening a maybe 12", which doesn't let me get between the lift's arms.

Tomorrow we are headed out to visit a cousin that's very ill, but I may get to try to get the firewall brace in on Saturday. We shall see.

[85lebaront2]

Doesn't BB have a sliding rear window???

LOL! Yes, he does. But that would be very, very painful. There's no seat, and given the tool box it would be a problem getting in - and out. And as soon as I got in I'd find I needed another tool.

I can get in via the doors now, but it isn't easy. And what I'd really like to do is to stand on the floor with the truck up a bit so I'm looking up under the dash. But I can't easily get in that position right now with the door only opening a maybe 12", which doesn't let me get between the lift's arms.

Tomorrow we are headed out to visit a cousin that's very ill, but I may get to try to get the firewall brace in on Saturday. We shall see.

Gary, figure it as manifold + the 9/16" hex and washer face on one of the short double ended studs (I can measure on my engine if you need it).

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, figure it as manifold + the 9/16" hex and washer face on one of the short double ended studs (I can measure on my engine if you need it).

Bill - I have the original manifolds so can check if I want. But since I'm using headers that's a moot point.

Which brings up a question. On that as well as at least two other spots I'll need to use a standard bolt instead of the 12-point fasteners that L&L sends. Are stainless fasteners the way to go?

[85lebaront2]

Bill - I have the original manifolds so can check if I want. But since I'm using headers that's a moot point.

Which brings up a question. On that as well as at least two other spots I'll need to use a standard bolt instead of the 12-point fasteners that L&L sends. Are stainless fasteners the way to go?

Stainless, as long as it is 304 or 316 condition B, or some B16 all thread, that is a high temperature non-CRES alloy, and use a CRES nut and washer. That is what I used on my 390's right manifold where the air filter preheater attached. That will also give you the ability to space the bracket as needed, or remove the pump without taking the front bolt out of the header.

Now we need a PN for that so anyone else (like me) who does a Saginaw pump conversion can try to find one.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bill - I have the original manifolds so can check if I want. But since I'm using headers that's a moot point.

Which brings up a question. On that as well as at least two other spots I'll need to use a standard bolt instead of the 12-point fasteners that L&L sends. Are stainless fasteners the way to go?

X2 on stainless.

My manifold bolts still look good from the '90's!

Not some rusty, indistinguishable nub that you can't get a wrench on.

[Gary Lewis]

Stainless, as long as it is 304 or 316 condition B, or some B16 all thread, that is a high temperature non-CRES alloy, and use a CRES nut and washer. That is what I used on my 390's right manifold where the air filter preheater attached. That will also give you the ability to space the bracket as needed, or remove the pump without taking the front bolt out of the header.

Now we need a PN for that so anyone else (like me) who does a Saginaw pump conversion can try to find one.

Bill - I'm not sure I understand what you said. The "non-CRES" bit of "or some B16 all thread, that is a high temperature non-CRES alloy" confused me. I think you are saying to use stainless but if I can't find a stainless all-thread to use a high-temp alloy and a stainless nut and washer. Is that right?

Similarly, you said "304 or 316 condition B". Are you saying 304 is good or 316 condition B? I ask because I didn't understand Condition B and I found this at Diversified Metals and it says Condition B is a variant of 304.

Jim - Are you saying I should ditch the whole set of L&L 12-points and go stainless the whole way? Did you use special bolts? 304? 316? Condition B?