Gary Lewis Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 OK, I'll have to do some checking to see if I that's possible, as in location of the MIDI v solenoid etc. Using the old wires might be easier. If I were to go the 'new' route and use the original shunt between the MIDI and solenoid would I be OK to cut it on the inside of the factory splices? I ask since you call it a 'special' wire, I assume it's still just a copper strand core? But it was designed(length and gauge) with the ammeter in mind? And it provides charge to the battery, correct? Or power to the fuse block when not running. Thanks for taking the time walking me through this Gary. I think you'll be fine cutting inside of the splices, but save as much of that wire as is possible. The shorter you make the shunt the less sensitive the ammeter will be. But, they aren't accurate anyway, so.... I think that wire is just a know resistance per inch or foot, so they use it in that position. So, "special" may be a stretch. But maybe "specific"? Happy to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 I think you'll be fine cutting inside of the splices, but save as much of that wire as is possible. The shorter you make the shunt the less sensitive the ammeter will be. But, they aren't accurate anyway, so.... I think that wire is just a know resistance per inch or foot, so they use it in that position. So, "special" may be a stretch. But maybe "specific"? Happy to help. OK, I'm pretty sure I've got it. And yes, I'll probably add a voltmeter as well for an actual idea of what's going on. As we said, I just hate the idea of seeing a gauge and knowing it doesn't work... Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 OK, I'm pretty sure I've got it. And yes, I'll probably add a voltmeter as well for an actual idea of what's going on. As we said, I just hate the idea of seeing a gauge and knowing it doesn't work... Thanks again. But you're making the assumption that the ammeter "actually works"! ...and that's a bit of a stretch. They barely give indication of anything. Consider the Rocketman voltmeter conversion. They look NOS and actually tell you something about the state of charge (or charging) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted May 9, 2020 Author Share Posted May 9, 2020 But you're making the assumption that the ammeter "actually works"! ...and that's a bit of a stretch. They barely give indication of anything. Consider the Rocketman voltmeter conversion. They look NOS and actually tell you something about the state of charge (or charging) Good point Jim, I have two I can test though. I've read there is a test - engine not running, headlights on should show a slight movement towards discharge... If I have one that works I'd rather have that as I'm not that enamored with the idea of a gauge showing something different than what it says. As I said, I'll probably get an aftermarket voltmeter. I have one in my Toyota, a little USB charging port with a voltmeter. Saying all that, I might still send the 2nd ammeter off at some point when I don't have something better to spend $45 on. And of course if neither works, I'll go that route immediately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Good point Jim, I have two I can test though. I've read there is a test - engine not running, headlights on should show a slight movement towards discharge... If I have one that works I'd rather have that as I'm not that enamored with the idea of a gauge showing something different than what it says. As I said, I'll probably get an aftermarket voltmeter. I have one in my Toyota, a little USB charging port with a voltmeter. Saying all that, I might still send the 2nd ammeter off at some point when I don't have something better to spend $45 on. And of course if neither works, I'll go that route immediately. It doesn't say 'Amps' just Draining or Charging. The way these are set anything left of center is showing you that the alternator is not providing enough to charge the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted May 9, 2020 Author Share Posted May 9, 2020 It doesn't say 'Amps' just Draining or Charging. The way these are set anything left of center is showing you that the alternator is not providing enough to charge the battery. :nabble_smiley_good:Another good point Jim, so it's not disingenuous as a voltmeter, but numbers would be more transparent as to it's function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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