ArdWrknTrk Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Gary - now that you mention it, it has died 2-4 times since driving it in the last 2 weeks. It never used to do this but it also used to idle much higher. After all my carb work the mechanic did adjust the idle so its much lower which is when I started having this issue. It even stalled 10 seconds after starting it yesterday when I picked it up from the shop/mechanic lol. He just walked away - they must be tired of dealing with my truck haha. At least one of these times included dying while going from/into reverse, the engine just sorta slowly drops out and the next thing I know i'm just coasting to a stop. Christopher, If it died on you immediately after leaving the gas station, there's no way it is vacuum in the tank. I'd maybe turn it up a bit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 You can try this also. One of two things could be happening in that the fuel tank isn't venting properly, so as the fuel in the tank gets warmer the vapor pressure rises and can force fuel past the float. Or it could be going into a vacuum and not allowing it to draw fuel when hot. Try removing the cap and run the vehicle and see if it changes. Check choke operation, try looking down the carb throat, motor off, engine hot, throttle closed to see if fuel is dripping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad9 Posted May 14, 2020 Author Share Posted May 14, 2020 Chad - Why not use Ford's instructions on that carb? They are on the site at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carbs Chokes & EFI/Holley 4180C. Then click on the Ford Service Manuals tab and take your pic. The carb is aftermarket i believe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 The carb is aftermarket i believe Does it have a large vent tube in each float bowl? That's probably the easiest way to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Does it have a large vent tube in each float bowl? That's probably the easiest way to know. I did forget something. On some applications there was a carb vent valve, for emissions sake. Would have vent tubes with hoses attached to float bowls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 I did forget something. On some applications there was a carb vent valve, for emissions sake. Would have vent tubes with hoses attached to float bowls. AFAIK all 4180 carbs have these vents -it's their distinguishing feature- At least the one on my '85 notch' and my '87 F-250. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad9 Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share Posted May 17, 2020 The carb is aftermarket i believe Went to try adjusting float level and find that mine is of course, non adjustable type Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Went to try adjusting float level and find that mine is of course, non adjustable type They are adjustable, just not externally adjustable. You have to remove the bowls and adjust them that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 They are adjustable, just not externally adjustable. You have to remove the bowls and adjust them that way. I think you should probably determine that they're out of adjustment before opening them up. If you do I'm going to suggest you use the genuine Holley blue float bowl gaskets. Also be sure all those little clutch drive screws in the metering blocks are *tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 I think you should probably determine that they're out of adjustment before opening them up. If you do I'm going to suggest you use the genuine Holley blue float bowl gaskets. Also be sure all those little clutch drive screws in the metering blocks are *tight. I agree, make sure it needs to come apart. Excuse me for playing Captain Obvious. Quickey test for power valve issues, turn mixture screws in all the way. If the truck continues to run, no matter how poorly, power valve is bad. Float too high? With vehicle at operating temp, run it, shut it down, and immediately look down the carb, don't touch throttle linkage, if fuel is dripping float is too high. Not all the Ford application carbs had brass floats. Some had a plastic like material that I have seen soak up fuel. Another test for high floats if under hard accel or hard braking the motor stalls, or bogs down, it would indicate high floats. The only time I came across low floats the car wanted to stall under wide open throttle cuz it sucked the float bowl dry. I apologize for stating the obvious. Hopefully this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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