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Coil gets HOT and engine cuts out. 1984 F250


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Well, something is definitely up.

If you add a resistor (in series) it should only add its ohms.

But your readings seem not to be in line with that at all.

Maybe clean your leads, or clean some of those connectors?

Because at this point I'm having my doubts.

Yes, back to basics, clean connectors, (and old baked wires at plugs), and ignition detent, (cant hurt), and maybe check under dash for issues as with "near fire" post.

That's the plan.

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Yes, back to basics, clean connectors, (and old baked wires at plugs), and ignition detent, (cant hurt), and maybe check under dash for issues as with "near fire" post.

That's the plan.

I'm just having a hard time understanding the readings you're getting.

I mean, one should be 0 and the other 1.05-1.15

What do you get if you touch the probes of your meter together?

Is it autoranging? Or what scale do you have it set on?

I made a rookie mistake this afternoon by not moving my lead to A dc.

Took me a few minutes to make sense of what I thought I was seeing.

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I'm just having a hard time understanding the readings you're getting.

I mean, one should be 0 and the other 1.05-1.15

What do you get if you touch the probes of your meter together?

Is it autoranging? Or what scale do you have it set on?

I made a rookie mistake this afternoon by not moving my lead to A dc.

Took me a few minutes to make sense of what I thought I was seeing.

I do get the tone when I put the leads together and zero resistance.

When i was testing however, it was giving the tone but took it's time for the numbers to settle down, like a count down.

Hmm, maybe try a different meter ok thanks.

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I do get the tone when I put the leads together and zero resistance.

When i was testing however, it was giving the tone but took it's time for the numbers to settle down, like a count down.

Hmm, maybe try a different meter ok thanks.

I'm not suggesting your meter is bad.

Just trying to get a baseline, and understand what you've got going on.

Even if the resistor wire was failing the bypass in start should read 0, or damn close to it.

Where is the decimal?

What meter do you have right now?

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I'm not suggesting your meter is bad.

Just trying to get a baseline, and understand what you've got going on.

Even if the resistor wire was failing the bypass in start should read 0, or damn close to it.

Where is the decimal?

What meter do you have right now?

Well, you guys have certainly given me the ammo to fix this. That, plus Gary's troubleshooting scans are all there is to fix this. I will figure it out but wont post until I fix it from here. I've sucked up way too much air on this from you guys.

You are the best.

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Well, you guys have certainly given me the ammo to fix this. That, plus Gary's troubleshooting scans are all there is to fix this. I will figure it out but wont post until I fix it from here. I've sucked up way too much air on this from you guys.

You are the best.

Bandwidth is cheap these days. :nabble_smiley_thinking:

With your determination I'm sure you'll get to the root of it.

Good luck!

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  • 5 weeks later...

I do get the tone when I put the leads together and zero resistance.

When i was testing however, it was giving the tone but took it's time for the numbers to settle down, like a count down.

Hmm, maybe try a different meter ok thanks.

Here is the latest.

I replaced coil and ICM, and cleaned the body/engine grounds at one shot. I figured doing them together would eliminate chasing a failure.

It ran great for 2 days but on mile 35 she quit on me. I am really stumped. Again, good thing I have an emergency spark box.

I am not sure where to go with this from here.

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Well, something is definitely up.

If you add a resistor (in series) it should only add its ohms.

But your readings seem not to be in line with that at all.

Maybe clean your leads, or clean some of those connectors?

Because at this point I'm having my doubts.

Connectors, yes, a logical measure, will do.

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