Starliner Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share Posted May 17, 2020 Sorry Jim, Dave went through the whole "how to adjust the ignition switch properly" off of the top of his head. Then commented on greasing the rod and cylinder/key. You guys had already covered that pretty well so I omited that, He did ask if the rod dident get accidently bent when the switch was changed, but as you guys had all of that covered, I left that out also. The only thing that hasent been said that addressed the original problem" coil gets hot and engine cuts out" was the pickup coil in the dist. So at this point I will just step away and keep following. There is also a possibility that the resistor wire is ng. Detent/mechanical issues first. I hear what you say about the pick up in the distributor, but keep in mind, my emergency spark box/fake coil works fine. The 10.5 - 12.5 volts at coil is going to be patched with a ballast resistor until I run down the line. If I can get it to 8 - 10 volts max, then when I fix it right it will hopefully show 6 - 8 volts, then I can take the bandaid out. That is the plan. I will of course post when rectified. I think we have touched on all possible causes. Thanks as usual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Sorry Jim, Dave went through the whole "how to adjust the ignition switch properly" off of the top of his head. Then commented on greasing the rod and cylinder/key. You guys had already covered that pretty well so I omited that, He did ask if the rod dident get accidently bent when the switch was changed, but as you guys had all of that covered, I left that out also. The only thing that hasent been said that addressed the original problem" coil gets hot and engine cuts out" was the pickup coil in the dist. So at this point I will just step away and keep following. It's Starliner who's determined that he gets 12V to the coil (unless he pulls the key back solidly to 'Run') I think if he can solve that, the overheating issue will go away and the module will last. I've seen bad pickups, and cracked magnets render the trigger part of a distributor inoperable. An interesting thing to note if this happens again is if the tach starts acting weird at all before cutting straight to zero. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 There is also a possibility that the resistor wire is ng. Detent/mechanical issues first. I hear what you say about the pick up in the distributor, but keep in mind, my emergency spark box/fake coil works fine. The 10.5 - 12.5 volts at coil is going to be patched with a ballast resistor until I run down the line. If I can get it to 8 - 10 volts max, then when I fix it right it will hopefully show 6 - 8 volts, then I can take the bandaid out. That is the plan. I will of course post when rectified. I think we have touched on all possible causes. Thanks as usual. Starliner, Have you taken your meter and ohmed from the coil power wire in the horseshoe to the two terminals of the DSII box power plug? Do you get '0' on one terminal and 1.05-1.15 ohms on the other? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share Posted May 17, 2020 It's Starliner who's determined that he gets 12V to the coil (unless he pulls the key back solidly to 'Run') I think if he can solve that, the overheating issue will go away and the module will last. I've seen bad pickups, and cracked magnets render the trigger part of a distributor inoperable. An interesting thing to note if this happens again is if the tach starts acting weird at all before cutting straight to zero. No, will do tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 20, 2020 Author Share Posted May 20, 2020 No, will do tomorrow Q: I realize the radio noise capacitor has an obvious purpose, but seeing that it goes to ground, is it an essential component? Could my eliminating it be adding to the overheating of the coil? Also, about the resistor wire, does it run from the ignition switch all the way to the coil, or is some of the wire on the path regular wire? I've looked at the schematic and I see it says R/LG. I'm just wondering if someone might have bypassed or replaced the resistor wire with normal wire. I see that the harness has been wrapped in electrical tape. I still have to do an ohms test, I just got side tracked dealing with a blown out wheel cylinder , and the stripped wheel lugs and nuts because someone didnt read the L on the lugnuts, (not me)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 Q: I realize the radio noise capacitor has an obvious purpose, but seeing that it goes to ground, is it an essential component? Could my eliminating it be adding to the overheating of the coil? Also, about the resistor wire, does it run from the ignition switch all the way to the coil, or is some of the wire on the path regular wire? I've looked at the schematic and I see it says R/LG. I'm just wondering if someone might have bypassed or replaced the resistor wire with normal wire. I see that the harness has been wrapped in electrical tape. I still have to do an ohms test, I just got side tracked dealing with a blown out wheel cylinder , and the stripped wheel lugs and nuts because someone didnt read the L on the lugnuts, (not me)! The condenser is not essential. It's only there to help eliminate EMI ringing from the coil. I think I already said the resistor wire is a length of pink wire wrapped up in the dash harness. It was pictured in another thread a week or so ago. I can see if I can link that picture, but I've repeatedly told you how to use your ohm meter to assure yourself that it is there and working. Oh well, here's the thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Pre-Emptive-FIRE-td58908.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 20, 2020 Author Share Posted May 20, 2020 The condenser is not essential. It's only there to help eliminate EMI ringing from the coil. I think I already said the resistor wire is a length of pink wire wrapped up in the dash harness. It was pictured in another thread a week or so ago. I can see if I can link that picture, but I've repeatedly told you how to use your ohm meter to assure yourself that it is there and working. Oh well, here's the thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Pre-Emptive-FIRE-td58908.html You have, and I will, sorry, I just got side tracked. No excuse. Will do today. Thx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Q: I realize the radio noise capacitor has an obvious purpose, but seeing that it goes to ground, is it an essential component? Could my eliminating it be adding to the overheating of the coil? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F201304947432 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Q: I realize the radio noise capacitor has an obvious purpose, but seeing that it goes to ground, is it an essential component? Could my eliminating it be adding to the overheating of the coil? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F201304947432 Good find, Jim. But in answer to the question, which I'd missed, the condensor/capacitor neither helps nor hurts the current draw. (Yes, if you want to get technical it can smooth things out a bit, but the overall energy drawn is the same.) So I don't think that has anything to do with the problem. Leave it off for now and add one back if the radio needs it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Good find, Jim. But in answer to the question, which I'd missed, the condensor/capacitor neither helps nor hurts the current draw. (Yes, if you want to get technical it can smooth things out a bit, but the overall energy drawn is the same.) So I don't think that has anything to do with the problem. Leave it off for now and add one back if the radio needs it. I need one too! You saw how rusty mine is when I shared a pic of my distributor cap. Trying to describe all the ways a capacitor can work (current limiting, smoothing, rectifying, etc) is beyond the scope of this forum, but not having one isn't going to harm the ignition. If this was an EEC truck the EMRFI could cause it to act up because of what I describe as an 'electrical echo', but I don't think that's a problem with DSII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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