ArdWrknTrk Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 So do we do the ballast resistor, at least for now? As a bandaid, sure. But remember, it gets hot. Dodge mounted them directly to the firewall -as a heatsink- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share Posted May 17, 2020 As a bandaid, sure. But remember, it gets hot. Dodge mounted them directly to the firewall -as a heatsink- Ah, ok bandaid it is just for now. I will continue to figure this out though, definitely haven't given up, not possible. Ibplan to measure coil temp at failure if or when. This WILL get fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Ah, ok bandaid it is just for now. I will continue to figure this out though, definitely haven't given up, not possible. Ibplan to measure coil temp at failure if or when. This WILL get fixed. A cheap IR non-contact thermometer is great for this kind of diagnosis. But don't forget what I said about the symptoms being more a failing module, than a failing coil. When coils die the ignition starts breaking up, and gets worse as long as it's running. When the ignition module goes bad it just shuts off (or gives one backfire) before it does. Transistors are binary, coils are not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share Posted May 17, 2020 A cheap IR non-contact thermometer is great for this kind of diagnosis. But don't forget what I said about the symptoms being more a failing module, than a failing coil. When coils die the ignition starts breaking up, and gets worse as long as it's running. When the ignition module goes bad it just shuts off (or gives one backfire) before it does. Transistors are binary, coils are not. Right, got it. Honestly I am a bit lost as to where to start. Maybe bandaid, then figure out the detent issue, monitor coil behavior, maybe swap out another ign sw. , maybe put the old motorcraft Ign. Mod back in, Reading your post more Jim, I think I hear you, I am overloading the ign. Mod. And the source of that overload is more the issue. I know there is a posting for testing the mod. I also understand how the failures can create a weak ling around and around the chain so really, the obvious first, key detent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Right, got it. Honestly I am a bit lost as to where to start. Maybe bandaid, then figure out the detent issue, monitor coil behavior, maybe swap out another ign sw. , maybe put the old motorcraft Ign. Mod back in, Reading your post more Jim, I think I hear you, I am overloading the ign. Mod. And the source of that overload is more the issue. I know there is a posting for testing the mod. I also understand how the failures can create a weak ling around and around the chain so really, the obvious first, key detent. Yes, it has to be something in the mechanical linkage that isn't causing the module to come back to Run. I don't think there's a spring in the switch. It just slides. So all of the positioning is from the key tumbler and linkage. As said, we see a lot of this in the winter when the grease sets up and doesn't let the linkage and switch come all of the way back to Run. What usually is witnessed is that the accessories don't come on, like the turn signals, clock, and radio. But the engine still runs. I'd pull the tumbler and flush it out with cleaner and then lube it. And go through the linkage doing the same. Look for where it might be rubbing on something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old55pete Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Right, got it. Honestly I am a bit lost as to where to start. Maybe bandaid, then figure out the detent issue, monitor coil behavior, maybe swap out another ign sw. , maybe put the old motorcraft Ign. Mod back in, Reading your post more Jim, I think I hear you, I am overloading the ign. Mod. And the source of that overload is more the issue. I know there is a posting for testing the mod. I also understand how the failures can create a weak ling around and around the chain so really, the obvious first, key detent. I was just talking to an older mechanic, Long story, and I have been following this thread from the beginning. For all intents and purpose, Im a heavy diesel guy and my shop has guys in it that also do light stuff too. I was explaining this thread to him(he used to work at Ford shops back in the day). He asked me if anyone had checked the pickup coil in the distributer ? Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 I was just talking to an older mechanic, Long story, and I have been following this thread from the beginning. For all intents and purpose, Im a heavy diesel guy and my shop has guys in it that also do light stuff too. I was explaining this thread to him(he used to work at Ford shops back in the day). He asked me if anyone had checked the pickup coil in the distributer ? Just a thought. The pickup in the distributor CAN go bad (I've replaced them before) But it's not going to cause -or fix- the ignition switch problem that is not connecting the resistor in series to the ignition coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 The pickup in the distributor CAN go bad (I've replaced them before) But it's not going to cause -or fix- the ignition switch problem that is not connecting the resistor in series to the ignition coil. I'm pretty sure to have determined that the coil and module are having to sink too much power because the ignition switch is not fully returning from start to run. If the pickup goes out the box does not break ground to the coil. Another vexing ignition problem is if the tiny brass ground tab inside the distributor comes loose or breaks. This is the only ground in the whole primary side of the ignition system. The coil can't build flux if it's not grounded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Yes, it has to be something in the mechanical linkage that isn't causing the module to come back to Run. I don't think there's a spring in the switch. It just slides. So all of the positioning is from the key tumbler and linkage. As said, we see a lot of this in the winter when the grease sets up and doesn't let the linkage and switch come all of the way back to Run. What usually is witnessed is that the accessories don't come on, like the turn signals, clock, and radio. But the engine still runs. I'd pull the tumbler and flush it out with cleaner and then lube it. And go through the linkage doing the same. Look for where it might be rubbing on something. Gary, There's definitely detents in the switch. Whether flat brass springs or a coil behind a ball, something causes the switch to assume distinct positions, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old55pete Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 The pickup in the distributor CAN go bad (I've replaced them before) But it's not going to cause -or fix- the ignition switch problem that is not connecting the resistor in series to the ignition coil. Sorry Jim, Dave went through the whole "how to adjust the ignition switch properly" off of the top of his head. Then commented on greasing the rod and cylinder/key. You guys had already covered that pretty well so I omited that, He did ask if the rod dident get accidently bent when the switch was changed, but as you guys had all of that covered, I left that out also. The only thing that hasent been said that addressed the original problem" coil gets hot and engine cuts out" was the pickup coil in the dist. So at this point I will just step away and keep following. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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