Starliner Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Well, this should be interesting, I plan to adjust the ignition switch today. It was new when I installed it 2 weeks ago. I do not remember seeing any locking pin, (didn't look), so my fear is that I just bolted it on and sheared the pin when I took it out of drive. If it is sheared off in there, maybe that would be my issue with high running voltage at the coil + side, (14.3V). I guess I will find out soon enough. If it IS in fact sheared, I guess I will try a magnet to get it out if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Well, this should be interesting, I plan to adjust the ignition switch today. It was new when I installed it 2 weeks ago. I do not remember seeing any locking pin, (didn't look), so my fear is that I just bolted it on and sheared the pin when I took it out of drive. If it is sheared off in there, maybe that would be my issue with high running voltage at the coil + side, (14.3V). I guess I will find out soon enough. If it IS in fact sheared, I guess I will try a magnet to get it out if possible. Take it off and shake it. The pin may fall out. If you look at the schematic there appear to be three separate switches inside the ignition switch module. The one on the left brings in the starter. And both switches on the right are used for the ignition. I've noticed on other trucks that those switches aren't perfectly aligned internally. On an old switch in cold weather the Start switch will open as you roll the key back from Start to Run, but one of the other switches won't make so the accessories like the clock and radio don't come on. I'm thinking that your left switch is opening up so the starter drops out, but the right switch is staying connected so the resistance wire is bypassed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Take it off and shake it. The pin may fall out. If you look at the schematic there appear to be three separate switches inside the ignition switch module. The one on the left brings in the starter. And both switches on the right are used for the ignition. I've noticed on other trucks that those switches aren't perfectly aligned internally. On an old switch in cold weather the Start switch will open as you roll the key back from Start to Run, but one of the other switches won't make so the accessories like the clock and radio don't come on. I'm thinking that your left switch is opening up so the starter drops out, but the right switch is staying connected so the resistance wire is bypassed. Makes sense that the resistor wire is getting bypassed. This is great. The sad part is that I had read your switch adjustment instructions BEFORE installing it, then, for whatever reason, did it my way anyway. Comprehension is an important part of reading. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Makes sense that the resistor wire is getting bypassed. This is great. The sad part is that I had read your switch adjustment instructions BEFORE installing it, then, for whatever reason, did it my way anyway. Comprehension is an important part of reading. Thanks. Ohm it out. You'll know right away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Ohm it out. You'll know right away. Ok, since I am lazy, I try the easiest thing first. Last night she ran flawlessly. When I checked the coil it wasnt hot. The only thing I did yesterday was to sand down all battery and cable connections. I am getting running voltage of 10.71 at the positive coil when running. I made sure that the voltage held throughout the "travel" of the ON key position and it did. As a matter of priorities, now that she is running like a clock, I dont have to 2-foot it when driving. With the idle nice and low I am noticing front brake grab, both sides. After sitting for 10 years I am not surprised. So i will end this thread, and will post any coil updated here but will otherwise end this discussion on my side along with many thanks. BRAKES! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Ok, since I am lazy, I try the easiest thing first. Last night she ran flawlessly. When I checked the coil it wasnt hot. The only thing I did yesterday was to sand down all battery and cable connections. I am getting running voltage of 10.71 at the positive coil when running. I made sure that the voltage held throughout the "travel" of the ON key position and it did. As a matter of priorities, now that she is running like a clock, I dont have to 2-foot it when driving. With the idle nice and low I am noticing front brake grab, both sides. After sitting for 10 years I am not surprised. So i will end this thread, and will post any coil updated here but will otherwise end this discussion on my side along with many thanks. BRAKES! Well, that's an even easier solution. Well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 15, 2020 Author Share Posted May 15, 2020 Well, that's an even easier solution. Well done! UPDATE: Well, maybe this will help someone in the future, and hopefully this is really fixed this time. The problem seems to be that the ON position to the key switch has 2 clicks before going to start and both clicks show different voltage to the coil. So even after adjusting it using Gary's detailed instructions, the coil was still intermittently heating up and eventually quitting on me due to too much constant voltage, (I think). The voltage wasnt always getting bypassed to the resistor wire. So my workaround solution was to adjust the ignition switch by using a volt meter. Negative to ground, positive lead to the + wire at the coil. I placed the volt meter against the windshield so I could watch the voltage at various positions to determine the best position for the ignition switch. This is not the ideal setup, the key cylinder itself or the slide rod has some kind of hang up but I think I have it. If not, I will post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 UPDATE: Well, maybe this will help someone in the future, and hopefully this is really fixed this time. The problem seems to be that the ON position to the key switch has 2 clicks before going to start and both clicks show different voltage to the coil. So even after adjusting it using Gary's detailed instructions, the coil was still intermittently heating up and eventually quitting on me due to too much constant voltage, (I think). The voltage wasnt always getting bypassed to the resistor wire. So my workaround solution was to adjust the ignition switch by using a volt meter. Negative to ground, positive lead to the + wire at the coil. I placed the volt meter against the windshield so I could watch the voltage at various positions to determine the best position for the ignition switch. This is not the ideal setup, the key cylinder itself or the slide rod has some kind of hang up but I think I have it. If not, I will post. Do you have tilt wheel? If pushing the turn signal stalk forward unlatches it, it may be a sign of a failing actuator, because you have a new switch and it isn't supposed to be like that. Look at any of the EVTM diagrams. There are only Accy, Lock, Run and Start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 15, 2020 Author Share Posted May 15, 2020 Do you have tilt wheel? If pushing the turn signal stalk forward unlatches it, it may be a sign of a failing actuator, because you have a new switch and it isn't supposed to be like that. Look at any of the EVTM diagrams. There are only Accy, Lock, Run and Start. It is not a tilt wheel. Definitely the 2 clicks in the ON position is odd. To double check I swapped back my stock switch and that confirmed it was a good ignition switch. A 35 y/o electrical component, those were better times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 It is not a tilt wheel. Definitely the 2 clicks in the ON position is odd. To double check I swapped back my stock switch and that confirmed it was a good ignition switch. A 35 y/o electrical component, those were better times. That would make me think the switches are both good and there's something going on with the column or actuator rod. With the switch that you have out of the truck, is there a fifth detent if you manipulate it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts