Underhood Work Light LED Replacement

[ArdWrknTrk]

The specs on the ones in that link say the whole roll pulls 44 watts, and that's for 5 meters which is 500 cm. 500 cm is 16.67 longer than 30 cm, so 16.67 x 1.5 w = 25 watts. And 25/44 = 57%. IOW, I think yours pull roughly 1/2 the current that the ones in the link pull.

So, are there different efficiencies in LEDs?

With current technologies, no not really.

I mean to say that X watts are going to present X lumens... given good phosphors and doping.

So I can't imagine how bright the roll above really is.

And that one says it's not dimmable

So the difference is probably down to how many and how large the LED's are per X length of tape.

[Gary Lewis]

With current technologies, no not really.

I mean to say that X watts are going to present X lumens... given good phosphors and doping.

So I can't imagine how bright the roll above really is.

And that one says it's not dimmable

So the difference is probably down to how many and how large the LED's are per X length of tape.

ISWYDT

So, is 16.4' of tape enough for a truck? I'll have to measure today, but my guess is that on an 8' bed you can't get more than 6' of tape given the stake pockets, spacing of the LEDs, and connectors. So that leaves 4.4' for the hood and I doubt that is enough.

How long are strips you used, Jim? Maybe we can work backwards from those dimensions.

[ArdWrknTrk]

ISWYDT

So, is 16.4' of tape enough for a truck? I'll have to measure today, but my guess is that on an 8' bed you can't get more than 6' of tape given the stake pockets, spacing of the LEDs, and connectors. So that leaves 4.4' for the hood and I doubt that is enough.

How long are strips you used, Jim? Maybe we can work backwards from those dimensions.

I used (4) 230mm strips.

I'm saying that a single 8' strip (or wherever the cut line is) is enough to run the length of the bed, so 5M should be enough for both sides.

I would use one length, and not make any more cuts than needed.

If you don't want light inside the stake pocket just cover that section with electric tape, or the foil duct tape that sticks so well.

[Gary Lewis]

I used (4) 230mm strips.

I'm saying that a single 8' strip (or wherever the cut line is) is enough to run the length of the bed, so 5M should be enough for both sides.

I would use one length, and not make any more cuts than needed.

If you don't want light inside the stake pocket just cover that section with electric tape, or the foil duct tape that sticks so well.

Ok, you used ~9" strips for a total of 3'. Assuming that the cut lines allow that on this roll then there would be 13.4' left over for the bed. And if my guess of 6' per side works that actually means you could go with 1' sections under the hood.

As for running the full length of the bed, we may be thinking of placing it differently. I was thinking of placing it up under where it is hidden and out of harm's way. But doing it that way means you can't run it the whole length. And it also means the light will be shaded from your eyes.

You are thinking of running it along the vertical face of the gunnel pointing in. Right? That would give a lot more light, but would be vulnerable to things being tossed around in the bed and would be "in your eyes"

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, you used ~9" strips for a total of 3'. Assuming that the cut lines allow that on this roll then there would be 13.4' left over for the bed. And if my guess of 6' per side works that actually means you could go with 1' sections under the hood.

As for running the full length of the bed, we may be thinking of placing it differently. I was thinking of placing it up under where it is hidden and out of harm's way. But doing it that way means you can't run it the whole length. And it also means the light will be shaded from your eyes.

You are thinking of running it along the vertical face of the gunnel pointing in. Right? That would give a lot more light, but would be vulnerable to things being tossed around in the bed and would be "in your eyes"

Let me check on length.

I think the listing says 12".

(Isn't there a link upthread?)

How do you intend to get your wire forward?

I'm assuming you're going to have to drill across the stake pocket?

Run it right through and tape over what you don't want to see.

I love how the two of us have such different views of the world.

[Gary Lewis]

Let me check on length.

I think the listing says 12".

(Isn't there a link upthread?)

How do you intend to get your wire forward?

I'm assuming you're going to have to drill across the stake pocket?

Run it right through and tape over what you don't want to see.

I love how the two of us have such different views of the world.

I looked and didn't find the link. Looked and used the search function. But may have missed it.

Anyway, I think there's room to sneak the wires past the stake pocket up under the gunnel. But I've not tried it.

Yes, we tend to look at things differently, which is why working together gives good results. Early in my career I formed teams of people who thought like I did. But later I was shown that forming teams of people with disparate views gives better results.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I looked and didn't find the link. Looked and used the search function. But may have missed it.

Anyway, I think there's room to sneak the wires past the stake pocket up under the gunnel. But I've not tried it.

Yes, we tend to look at things differently, which is why working together gives good results. Early in my career I formed teams of people who thought like I did. But later I was shown that forming teams of people with disparate views gives better results.

Try this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YXBEHQK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[Gary Lewis]

Try this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YXBEHQK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

That works, thanks. So if you cut them you have to solder to the leads, but they come with 1 meter of wire? I wonder if one of those under the rear gunnel and one under the front would be enough. Would be less expensive than the roll because you don't have to buy the connectors. Or, you could buy three packs and use one under the hood and two in the bed and probably still be less expensive than the strip with connectors.

Yours touts the 3M adhesive, and as you learned it works WELL. I wonder how well that on the roll works. The instructions for it says:

Clean the surface you intend to stick the light strip to

Peel off the backing strip off the adhesive tape

Press and hold the light strip firmly against the surface [For difficult installations - search for "HitLights Foam Tape"]

The "for difficult installations" bit doesn't give me a warm fuzzy.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That works, thanks. So if you cut them you have to solder to the leads, but they come with 1 meter of wire? I wonder if one of those under the rear gunnel and one under the front would be enough. Would be less expensive than the roll because you don't have to buy the connectors. Or, you could buy three packs and use one under the hood and two in the bed and probably still be less expensive than the strip with connectors.

Yours touts the 3M adhesive, and as you learned it works WELL. I wonder how well that on the roll works. The instructions for it says:

Clean the surface you intend to stick the light strip to

Peel off the backing strip off the adhesive tape

Press and hold the light strip firmly against the surface [For difficult installations - search for "HitLights Foam Tape"]

The "for difficult installations" bit doesn't give me a warm fuzzy.

First, there is no soldering: "Our kits install quickly and easily right out of the box, no soldering, electrical experience, or tools required - and they last for years with minimal power requirements."

Second, they tout "Upgraded Adhesive"

So I'm assuming it's going to stick.

When I have to apply these things to a porus surface (unfinished wood soffit or cabinet top) I use spray adhesive (3M 77,88,90 or drywall trim adhesive) as a primer.

With that prep they're not coming off without a fight.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That works, thanks. So if you cut them you have to solder to the leads, but they come with 1 meter of wire? I wonder if one of those under the rear gunnel and one under the front would be enough. Would be less expensive than the roll because you don't have to buy the connectors. Or, you could buy three packs and use one under the hood and two in the bed and probably still be less expensive than the strip with connectors.

Yours touts the 3M adhesive, and as you learned it works WELL. I wonder how well that on the roll works. The instructions for it says:

Clean the surface you intend to stick the light strip to

Peel off the backing strip off the adhesive tape

Press and hold the light strip firmly against the surface [For difficult installations - search for "HitLights Foam Tape"]

The "for difficult installations" bit doesn't give me a warm fuzzy.

The "for difficult installations" means textured surface.