Underhood Work Light LED Replacement

[kramttocs]

Nothing to it at all. I was going to take some photos but there's really not much in there.

Once you drill out the rivets the two halves come apart without fuss. Inside there is a white pulley made of two halves. On mine the two halves of the pulley came apart while I was pulling the case apart so the spring tried to escape but even if it does, no big deal. One half of the case will have a white lever that is the locking (clicking) mechanism and that's it. The other half has the mercury capsule and wiring.

The pulley splits with some locking tabs.

All I did on mine was wind the spring back in the center of the pulley (since it came out on me), put some dielectric grease on the contacts, and wrapped the light cord back inside the pulley. The spring center post on one half of the case has slot in it that the spring fits into. After putting the pulley back in I gave it a few revolutions until I liked the tension on it. Put the light socket in the holder and then put the other half of the case back on. I used SS button head m3 x 8 bolts with nyloc nuts and a washer.

Reading that is probably more confusing that actually opening it

SBL order arrived today. Happy with the results. Clearance is good and light output is an improvement. It's not a huge improvement but the reduction in heat alone is worth it to me.

This is the cool white vs the GE90.

[ArdWrknTrk]

SBL order arrived today. Happy with the results. Clearance is good and light output is an improvement. It's not a huge improvement but the reduction in heat alone is worth it to me.

This is the cool white vs the GE90.

Scott, that's kind of surprising given the advertised 30% increased lumens.

I may have to get a picture of my 1156 hood light.

Of course, I can't use it to change a tire or anything like that, but it does seem to light up my engine bay.

[Gary Lewis]

Scott, that's kind of surprising given the advertised 30% increased lumens.

I may have to get a picture of my 1156 hood light.

Of course, I can't use it to change a tire or anything like that, but it does seem to light up my engine bay.

Thanks, Scott. I think I'll get one for when the time comes I can actually install my light.

[Danny G]

SBL order arrived today. Happy with the results. Clearance is good and light output is an improvement. It's not a huge improvement but the reduction in heat alone is worth it to me.

This is the cool white vs the GE90.

I don't have the under hood light but have been kicking around the idea of putting some LED's in the engine bay with a rocker switch.

[Rusty_S85]

I don't have the under hood light but have been kicking around the idea of putting some LED's in the engine bay with a rocker switch.

Look at KC Lights, they got some LED pod lights that can be used under hood. Im looking at those as a possible recessed under hood light if I run the abs plastic hood liner with the ford oval.

[kramttocs]

Scott, that's kind of surprising given the advertised 30% increased lumens.

I may have to get a picture of my 1156 hood light.

Of course, I can't use it to change a tire or anything like that, but it does seem to light up my engine bay.

Yeah, I didn't expect a huge improvement in the brightness but still happy it is a little brighter. Knowing that I can leave the hood open for long periods of time and not worry about melting or yellowing the dome/cover is well worth it.

Rusty - I don't see why the factory light still wouldn't work. Would just need to drill some holes. I've thought about the Ford oval one also.

[Rusty_S85]

Yeah, I didn't expect a huge improvement in the brightness but still happy it is a little brighter. Knowing that I can leave the hood open for long periods of time and not worry about melting or yellowing the dome/cover is well worth it.

Rusty - I don't see why the factory light still wouldn't work. Would just need to drill some holes. I've thought about the Ford oval one also.

I think its because you would lose your ground as the ground screws to the hood and you cant ground it through the abs plastic. Since I am rewiring my light itself if I dont destory it in the process I am thinking of making a connector at the light then I can run my own ground from else where for the light.

If I cant make it work I am looking at recessing the KC led under hood/truck lights and wire it into a mercury switch if I can find a stand alone, otherwise ill use an alarm plunger on the core support to activate the lights.

[kramttocs]

I think its because you would lose your ground as the ground screws to the hood and you cant ground it through the abs plastic. Since I am rewiring my light itself if I dont destory it in the process I am thinking of making a connector at the light then I can run my own ground from else where for the light.

If I cant make it work I am looking at recessing the KC led under hood/truck lights and wire it into a mercury switch if I can find a stand alone, otherwise ill use an alarm plunger on the core support to activate the lights.

It does but that would just require drilling a hole larger than the eyelet through the abs.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It does but that would just require drilling a hole larger than the eyelet through the abs.

Why couldn't you just put the eyelet under the screw head?

I mean the led draw is incredibly small.

[kramttocs]

Why couldn't you just put the eyelet under the screw head?

I mean the led draw is incredibly small.

You could and it would work just fine. I was going to say that but I figured someone would comment about wanting the eyelet to have direct contact instead of just through the screw(gambled and lost ) You could also just wrap the ground cable around the edge of the abs but would be more of a pain to install.