SCFlareside Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Hi all, Nearing a decision point on "Silver", my '85 Flareside: As noted on my build thread, one of the prior owners added leafs in the rear, or perhaps 3/4 ton springs. Combined with possible sag in the original front springs, the truck has a lot of forward rake. Now, I like rake, and want to end up with about the factory amount (say 1.5" or so) but right now it's pretty significant. I didn't realize how much until I measured the fender gaps just now, it's actually about 4" difference (lower in front). I'm considering a few options: 1" spacer washer from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, which I don't think will cause any alignment issues 2" Leveling spacers Maybe the Moog CC820 springs for about 1.5" Now, I'd rather go with the 2" but need some honest feedback from anyone else's experience. From what I've been able to find on the sticky posts and searches, I will likely need adjustable bushings but the 2" is right about at the limit for the factory setup. Has anyone gone with the 2"? Experiences? Sorry if this has been addressed over and over, have searched it but still am up in the air as far as solid advice. Would rather have a few opinions from this good crew at Gary's than 100 from FTE :) If anyone has gotten the 2" spacers and just can't get the truck aligned, then that's a non starter for me. I hate to chew up the new BFG Muds, I scored maybe the last ever new set of KM2s with white letters... Thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Why not remove springs from the rear? You'll get a better ride and reduce the rake w/o having to spend money. From all I've read, doing much of anything to the TTB up front is likely to cause alignment problems. But dropping the rear shouldn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFlareside Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 Why not remove springs from the rear? You'll get a better ride and reduce the rake w/o having to spend money. From all I've read, doing much of anything to the TTB up front is likely to cause alignment problems. But dropping the rear shouldn't. Now that's a solid idea. I might just follow that advice. I do kind of like the height of the truck in the rear, so if I can get away with a leveling kit without hitting a wall, I might try it but.. if the leveling kit is a problem I'll probably go that route Still love to hear from anyone that did a leveling kit at all, and how it went? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFlareside Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 Now that's a solid idea. I might just follow that advice. I do kind of like the height of the truck in the rear, so if I can get away with a leveling kit without hitting a wall, I might try it but.. if the leveling kit is a problem I'll probably go that route Still love to hear from anyone that did a leveling kit at all, and how it went? Pic showing current rake. Truck has 33s currently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Pic showing current rake. Truck has 33s currently How 'bout a pic of the rear springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 1 1/2" lift in the front is generally a leveling kit. I cant say about more than that I know 1 1/2" is still with in adjustment but I believe 2 1/2" is the absolute max to have adjustability. I personally am going to be installing custom built springs to OE spec front and rear from Eaton but will opt for their 1 1/2" taller option for the front coils and will be running the NPD sold adjustable camber/caster bushings to be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 I'd want springs instead of shims. Camber bushings are inexpensive if you know where to look. $8 a side is really cheap, and you're going to need an alignment no matter what. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172258149952 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFlareside Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 1 1/2" lift in the front is generally a leveling kit. I cant say about more than that I know 1 1/2" is still with in adjustment but I believe 2 1/2" is the absolute max to have adjustability. I personally am going to be installing custom built springs to OE spec front and rear from Eaton but will opt for their 1 1/2" taller option for the front coils and will be running the NPD sold adjustable camber/caster bushings to be safe. Nice idea on the Eaton springs. Do you have a ballpark on what they would cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFlareside Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 I'd want springs instead of shims. Camber bushings are inexpensive if you know where to look. $8 a side is really cheap, and you're going to need an alignment no matter what. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172258149952 I know a lot of the leveling springs turn out to be 1.5 inches, which wouldn't be bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 I'd want springs instead of shims. Camber bushings are inexpensive if you know where to look. $8 a side is really cheap, and you're going to need an alignment no matter what. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172258149952 I don't know the difference between -c and -d but both are available from that seller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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