ArdWrknTrk Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 I can say that this picture was taken when the truck hadn't run for over 12 hours. Also, shouldn't the ammeter be in full deflection to discharge until the ignition switch is placed in acc on? If the ammeter is off too, perhaps the alternator went full field or someone jumped the battery with 24V and the key on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 It doesn't appear that they are set in a fixed position. When driving both the fuel and ammeter gauges worked as advertised. I just happened to notice it when looking at the pictures I snapped of the cluster. Here's a picture under Rusty's hood that shows the firewall near the driver side. The connectors circled appear to be disconnected, any of those the culprit? The single green wire is for the optional underhood light. Not sure of the harness plug on a '81 truck. But I'm sure it's shown in the EVTM. Probably for a different engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 The single green wire is for the optional underhood light. Not sure of the harness plug on a '81 truck. But I'm sure it's shown in the EVTM. Probably for a different engine. I don't think anything is wrong with the ammeter as it sets in the center when there's no current, and swings to the left when current is flowing out of the battery and to the right when it is flowing in. As far as the three amigos, fuel/oil/coolant, I don't know. That's strange. Let's see what you find out today, Clay. On the tach, I've seen several of them stop and start at odd times. Not sure that one did, but if it is then it may need cleaned as they are pretty sensitive to the stuff left over on the printed circuit from soldering. Or, as Jim said, maybe the wire has a break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayJ Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share Posted May 17, 2020 I don't think anything is wrong with the ammeter as it sets in the center when there's no current, and swings to the left when current is flowing out of the battery and to the right when it is flowing in. As far as the three amigos, fuel/oil/coolant, I don't know. That's strange. Let's see what you find out today, Clay. On the tach, I've seen several of them stop and start at odd times. Not sure that one did, but if it is then it may need cleaned as they are pretty sensitive to the stuff left over on the printed circuit from soldering. Or, as Jim said, maybe the wire has a break. Just thought you gents would like to see the failed flexplate removed from Rusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Just thought you gents would like to see the failed flexplate removed from Rusty. Wow! That broke it out right at the bend, which would be expected. And it really does look like the wrong flex plate. So, did you get Rusty home? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayJ Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share Posted May 17, 2020 Wow! That broke it out right at the bend, which would be expected. And it really does look like the wrong flex plate. So, did you get Rusty home? Not yet, drove him 15 miles from the shop to the in laws home as We're using this as an opportunity to visit. Will be making the big trip home tomorrow morning and prepare for new windshield glass on Tuesday and hopefully a state inspection Wednesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Not yet, drove him 15 miles from the shop to the in laws home as We're using this as an opportunity to visit. Will be making the big trip home tomorrow morning and prepare for new windshield glass on Tuesday and hopefully a state inspection Wednesday. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayJ Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share Posted May 17, 2020 Just thought you gents would like to see the failed flexplate removed from Rusty. Just going over Rusty and cleaning everything in preparation for the state inspection and found the hazard lights weren't working. Turn signals and brake lights were working just fine though. Thanks to Gary's impeccable documentation and publishing of manuals and diagrams I chased the issue down to the hazard relay on the back of the fuse panel. One new relay later, hazards are working just fine! I did notice that fuse 1 has a 30 amp fuse instead of the 20 amp the manual calls for. Also removing the fuse block makes installing the new hazard relay much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myrl883 Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Just going over Rusty and cleaning everything in preparation for the state inspection and found the hazard lights weren't working. Turn signals and brake lights were working just fine though. Thanks to Gary's impeccable documentation and publishing of manuals and diagrams I chased the issue down to the hazard relay on the back of the fuse panel. One new relay later, hazards are working just fine! I did notice that fuse 1 has a 30 amp fuse instead of the 20 amp the manual calls for. Also removing the fuse block makes installing the new hazard relay much easier. Wow! I've never seen a flex plate break that cleanly. It's usually a very jagged break, and the engine will continue to run, but have a knock at idle that sounds like bearings, but goes away when you put the trans in gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Just going over Rusty and cleaning everything in preparation for the state inspection and found the hazard lights weren't working. Turn signals and brake lights were working just fine though. Thanks to Gary's impeccable documentation and publishing of manuals and diagrams I chased the issue down to the hazard relay on the back of the fuse panel. One new relay later, hazards are working just fine! I did notice that fuse 1 has a 30 amp fuse instead of the 20 amp the manual calls for. Also removing the fuse block makes installing the new hazard relay much easier. Glad you found it and got it fixed, easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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