ClayJ Posted December 22, 2020 Author Share Posted December 22, 2020 Excellent! Yes, good tools make ALL the difference. Glad it all worked out well. Man Rusty can't catch a break and neither can I. Now I have a leaking steering gear. Drove Rusty approx. 45 miles yesterday running back and forth to town and when I pulled back into the garage I could see fluid on the ground. Sure enough the lower seal on the steering gear is leaking. Any past lessons learned for changing out the assembly? I'm thinking the biggest hassle will be removing the pitman arm and the intermediate steering shaft from up top. Would an alignment be required after? As far as parts and availability it looks like there are multiple choices. Looks like Amazon has a Cardone unit P/N: 27-7516 (Prime) available for $165.44 and a post purchase rebate of $70 making the post rebate price $95.44 plus tax. Best price I've seen so far as well as no core charge. Amazon Cardone Steering Gear 27-7516 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Man Rusty can't catch a break and neither can I. Now I have a leaking steering gear. Drove Rusty approx. 45 miles yesterday running back and forth to town and when I pulled back into the garage I could see fluid on the ground. Sure enough the lower seal on the steering gear is leaking. Any past lessons learned for changing out the assembly? I'm thinking the biggest hassle will be removing the pitman arm and the intermediate steering shaft from up top. Would an alignment be required after? As far as parts and availability it looks like there are multiple choices. Looks like Amazon has a Cardone unit P/N: 27-7516 (Prime) available for $165.44 and a post purchase rebate of $70 making the post rebate price $95.44 plus tax. Best price I've seen so far as well as no core charge. Amazon Cardone Steering Gear 27-7516 Clay - That's a bummer! On the steering gear, there are two levels. In my opinion you can get a bit less than new, and better than new. Here's my thinking. The factory used the cast iron box for the bottom bearing, and all boxes are now worn. The rebuilders check how worn and use boxes that are in tolerance, meaning the bearing clearance is more than new but still acceptable. And what you get is in the luck of the draw. But two outfits, Red Head and Bluetop, bore the box out and put in a real bearing. So they are better than new. But they are more expensive. I've used a Cardone unit and it was far better than the one it replaced. However, since then I've bought Red Head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Man Rusty can't catch a break and neither can I. Now I have a leaking steering gear. Drove Rusty approx. 45 miles yesterday running back and forth to town and when I pulled back into the garage I could see fluid on the ground. Sure enough the lower seal on the steering gear is leaking. Any past lessons learned for changing out the assembly? I'm thinking the biggest hassle will be removing the pitman arm and the intermediate steering shaft from up top. Would an alignment be required after? As far as parts and availability it looks like there are multiple choices. Looks like Amazon has a Cardone unit P/N: 27-7516 (Prime) available for $165.44 and a post purchase rebate of $70 making the post rebate price $95.44 plus tax. Best price I've seen so far as well as no core charge. Amazon Cardone Steering Gear 27-7516 Do you know that the output shaft is sloppy? If it's tight and only the seal is bad you can change it in the truck. My only other advice is to be sure to check for cracks starting between the two rear bolts, and make sure the new one is properly torqued to avoid that problem in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayJ Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 Do you know that the output shaft is sloppy? If it's tight and only the seal is bad you can change it in the truck. My only other advice is to be sure to check for cracks starting between the two rear bolts, and make sure the new one is properly torqued to avoid that problem in the future. Jim, Everything seems fairly tight so I'm taking your advice to try the seal replacement first. I located a Gates seal replacement kit for the pitman shaft seal so hopefully that will do the trick. Gary, remember all the funk and crud you scraped off Rusty's rear axle? The pitman arm and under side of the steering gear are coated with it. Not sure what this stuff is but boy is it stout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayJ Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 Clay - That's a bummer! On the steering gear, there are two levels. In my opinion you can get a bit less than new, and better than new. Here's my thinking. The factory used the cast iron box for the bottom bearing, and all boxes are now worn. The rebuilders check how worn and use boxes that are in tolerance, meaning the bearing clearance is more than new but still acceptable. And what you get is in the luck of the draw. But two outfits, Red Head and Bluetop, bore the box out and put in a real bearing. So they are better than new. But they are more expensive. I've used a Cardone unit and it was far better than the one it replaced. However, since then I've bought Red Head. If the seal replacement doesn't work I'll probably go with a blue top unit. Both they and red head seem to have quality products but the blue top is slightly cheaper and matches the Ford blue valve covers and hei distributor that are on the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 Jim, Everything seems fairly tight so I'm taking your advice to try the seal replacement first. I located a Gates seal replacement kit for the pitman shaft seal so hopefully that will do the trick. Gary, remember all the funk and crud you scraped off Rusty's rear axle? The pitman arm and under side of the steering gear are coated with it. Not sure what this stuff is but boy is it stout. I remember that crud! At one time the guys were calling the truck Crusty. And yes, it was hard and ON THERE! Good luck on the seal. But your plans to go with Blue Top if that doesn't work would be what I'd do as well. Redhead has had some reported quality and customer service issues if you believe what you read on the internet. But Blue Top doesn't seem to have suffered that fate - yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayJ Posted January 8, 2021 Author Share Posted January 8, 2021 If the seal replacement doesn't work I'll probably go with a blue top unit. Both they and red head seem to have quality products but the blue top is slightly cheaper and matches the Ford blue valve covers and hei distributor that are on the engine. Gary- I think I found an onion patch underneath all the crud on Rusty's steering components. So the initial plan was to remove the pitman arm and remove and replace the pitman arm shaft seal. Let's just say I didn't make it that far. There is dirt in the crevices of crevices. No wonder this truck was almost named CRusty. I also noticed that all the rubber dust boots are in very poor shape and most are cracked and have lost all their grease. So with it being a new year why not start a new project!! Here's what I'm thinking. I've already removed the Moog Steering Stabilizer I installed last year and removed the steering gear. o Order a Blue-Top 2757 Gear (Currently shows out of stock) o Order the Steering Rod Kit (Bronco Graveyard) o Order Borgeson Steering Shaft (Bronco Graveyard) o Order the JBG 1.5-2" Front Leveling Springs- However, there is an interesting note I'd like some help with. The note says: Any 1980-96 Ford Bronco/F150 to be lifted 1.5-2" will have potential alignment problems unless the factory shims are at or near zero degrees. Verify what's on your truck prior to purchasing a suspension lift kit. Otherwise, a minimum of 4" of suspension lift will be required in order to achieve correct alignment. How can I tell if Rusty is at or near zero degrees? I'd prefer to do the 1.5-2" lift vs 4" as Rusty is already running 31 inch Coopers for the time being. o Install ordered parts o Alignment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 Gary- I think I found an onion patch underneath all the crud on Rusty's steering components. So the initial plan was to remove the pitman arm and remove and replace the pitman arm shaft seal. Let's just say I didn't make it that far. There is dirt in the crevices of crevices. No wonder this truck was almost named CRusty. I also noticed that all the rubber dust boots are in very poor shape and most are cracked and have lost all their grease. So with it being a new year why not start a new project!! Here's what I'm thinking. I've already removed the Moog Steering Stabilizer I installed last year and removed the steering gear. o Order a Blue-Top 2757 Gear (Currently shows out of stock) o Order the Steering Rod Kit (Bronco Graveyard) o Order Borgeson Steering Shaft (Bronco Graveyard) o Order the JBG 1.5-2" Front Leveling Springs- However, there is an interesting note I'd like some help with. The note says: Any 1980-96 Ford Bronco/F150 to be lifted 1.5-2" will have potential alignment problems unless the factory shims are at or near zero degrees. Verify what's on your truck prior to purchasing a suspension lift kit. Otherwise, a minimum of 4" of suspension lift will be required in order to achieve correct alignment. How can I tell if Rusty is at or near zero degrees? I'd prefer to do the 1.5-2" lift vs 4" as Rusty is already running 31 inch Coopers for the time being. o Install ordered parts o Alignment Man, you are going to have a huge Bloomin' Onion when this is over! I like your plans. But does the "steering rod kit" replace the tie rods? On the springs, you are out of my league. But some of the others will surely know. As for the zero degree question, the only way I know is to take it to an alignment shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayJ Posted January 8, 2021 Author Share Posted January 8, 2021 Man, you are going to have a huge Bloomin' Onion when this is over! I like your plans. But does the "steering rod kit" replace the tie rods? On the springs, you are out of my league. But some of the others will surely know. As for the zero degree question, the only way I know is to take it to an alignment shop. Gary- It does indeed, Includes: Drag Link, Tie Rods, Connecting Sleeves. Hopefully someone can chime in on the alignment bushings. I'd hate to order the springs and not be able to use them. I certainly think the 1.5 to 2" lift will help as those 31's contact the radius arms at full tilt. Also, no real need to upgrade to 33's as the 31's handle just fine for what I do with Rusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 9, 2021 Share Posted January 9, 2021 Gary- It does indeed, Includes: Drag Link, Tie Rods, Connecting Sleeves. Hopefully someone can chime in on the alignment bushings. I'd hate to order the springs and not be able to use them. I certainly think the 1.5 to 2" lift will help as those 31's contact the radius arms at full tilt. Also, no real need to upgrade to 33's as the 31's handle just fine for what I do with Rusty. When you put the taller springs into the truck, it will more than likely throw off the alignment (mainly camber, could affect others too though). That's why they suggest what I believe is adjustable eccentrics (bushings). Zero degrees would allow you some adjustment; any bushings tailored to a certain degree of alignment would not give you much adjustment. However, if your front springs are completely sagged out, the 1.5-2" leveling springs may make up for that and you may not need the adjustable bushings. You wouldn't know until the springs were installed and you took it in for the alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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