The Return of Rusty

[ClayJ]

Points weren't used after some time in the 70's, so all the Bullnose trucks came with electronic ignition. Some, like Rusty, with DS-II and some with TFI.

But let's go back to basics. Pull the vacuum advance hose and plug it. Then set the base timing to 12 degrees BTDC. Then check the vacuum advance hose. It should be connected to the "timed" vacuum port which is on the passenger's side of the front of the carb. Hook it back up to the distributor.

Then check your idle air/fuel mix. Not knowing what your mechanic did, I would turn the idle mixture screws out slightly to see if the idle needs a bit more gas, or in to see if it needs less. You want the idle fuel mix to max out the idle RPM, so turn them in/out about 1/4 turn at a time until you get max RPM - but keep them balanced. Then, as a last step, adjust the idle to a nice 600 - 650 RPM.

As for the coil, it could be going but stumbling under light load isn't where it would fail. Instead, it would fail under heavy load. So I doubt it is the coil.

Have you checked to see that the choke is opening fully? If I remember correctly there's a relay on the passenger's fender that is pulled in by the stator wire from the alternator and gives the choke battery voltage when the engine is running. Make sure that is working and the choke is coming off fully - before you adjust the idle fuel/air mix.

Big wins for Rusty today. Tachometer, warning lights, and aftermarket voltmeter are now working! Finally got around to looking up what fuse these operate on and sure enough, a brand new 15 amp fuse in position 18 and I'm good to go. Also decided to set the electric choke now that the tach is working. This is as far as the choke would close prior to the adjustment. No wonder it would take 2 to 3 crank attempts to start when cold before. After setting the choke he fired first time! Pretty simple to do, just needed to remove 2 of the screws on the housing and loosen the 3rd and I had access to the linkage.

After setting it like shown in this handy video

I warmed Rusty up and set the idle to 600rpm. Sounds great! Love that magnaflow!

[Gary Lewis]

Big wins for Rusty today. Tachometer, warning lights, and aftermarket voltmeter are now working! Finally got around to looking up what fuse these operate on and sure enough, a brand new 15 amp fuse in position 18 and I'm good to go. Also decided to set the electric choke now that the tach is working. This is as far as the choke would close prior to the adjustment. No wonder it would take 2 to 3 crank attempts to start when cold before. After setting the choke he fired first time! Pretty simple to do, just needed to remove 2 of the screws on the housing and loosen the 3rd and I had access to the linkage.

After setting it like shown in this handy video

I warmed Rusty up and set the idle to 600rpm. Sounds great! Love that magnaflow!

Cool!

But, why did you have to pull the choke cover? Was something wrong with the linkage?

And, I love the Magnaflow sound as well. Can't wait to have a pair on Big Blue.

[ClayJ]

Cool!

But, why did you have to pull the choke cover? Was something wrong with the linkage?

And, I love the Magnaflow sound as well. Can't wait to have a pair on Big Blue.

I've actually never had one of these apart before so I wanted to make sure the coil was positioned correctly on the link. In the video they only rotate the cover but I wanted to better understand the internal parts as well.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've actually never had one of these apart before so I wanted to make sure the coil was positioned correctly on the link. In the video they only rotate the cover but I wanted to better understand the internal parts as well.

And this is what makes these trucks great!

You can see what's happening, and rig it if you need to.

If your engine management computer decides your engine is up to temp it's not going to hold the injectors open longer.

And if it doesn't like X input, it may decide to give up entirely.

Nothing you can do about pulsing the injectors to get you home.

Glad you're taking the time to investigate how it works!

[ClayJ]

And this is what makes these trucks great!

You can see what's happening, and rig it if you need to.

If your engine management computer decides your engine is up to temp it's not going to hold the injectors open longer.

And if it doesn't like X input, it may decide to give up entirely.

Nothing you can do about pulsing the injectors to get you home.

Glad you're taking the time to investigate how it works!

Jim you're absolutely right. These trucks were built when you could actually work on them and not need thousands of dollars of diagnostic equipment. Perfect for work on the farm!

[Gary Lewis]

I've actually never had one of these apart before so I wanted to make sure the coil was positioned correctly on the link. In the video they only rotate the cover but I wanted to better understand the internal parts as well.

Good for you! Glad you are learning how it all works.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim you're absolutely right. These trucks were built when you could actually work on them and not need thousands of dollars of diagnostic equipment. Perfect for work on the farm!

Which is why you still find them parked out on farms (sometimes by the dozen)

You don't need twin turbos, active suspension and leather seating to haul water or fix a gate.

You need a truck you can fix with a sharp mind, a hammer and bailing wire.

[ClayJ]

Good for you! Glad you are learning how it all works.

Gary, did you by any chance do any troubleshooting with Rusty's AC system? Any knowledge you'd be willing to pass on would be appreciated. I'm sure it's a factory installed system and I believe it's been converted over to R134 at some point.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, did you by any chance do any troubleshooting with Rusty's AC system? Any knowledge you'd be willing to pass on would be appreciated. I'm sure it's a factory installed system and I believe it's been converted over to R134 at some point.

No, I don't think I ever tried to get it going.

And, I'm not the most conversant guy on here re A/C systems. But, if it was me I'd either put some gauges on it, assuming I had some, or take it to someone to put gauges on. It is remotely possible that it is just down on freon.

If not then they'll probably suggest pulling a vacuum on it. That will determine if it has a major leak.

[ClayJ]

No, I don't think I ever tried to get it going.

And, I'm not the most conversant guy on here re A/C systems. But, if it was me I'd either put some gauges on it, assuming I had some, or take it to someone to put gauges on. It is remotely possible that it is just down on freon.

If not then they'll probably suggest pulling a vacuum on it. That will determine if it has a major leak.

Ok so I did some surveying of the AC equipment under the hood and I don't think Rusty has been converted to R134. Everything that has markings says R12 and I believe that R134 fittings are quick disconnect not externally threaded. Is that correct? I did however find a fitting loose on what I believe is the low side line coming off the compressor, marked in red on the pic. I did go ahead and snug that fitting. Also, looks like the compressor was manufactured January of 1980. Probably a safe bet it's the original.