ArdWrknTrk Posted August 26, 2017 Author Share Posted August 26, 2017 I don't know anything to watch out for on an AVS. The Edelbrock manual is excellent, and the carb is pretty simple. 👍 Keep us posted. Gary, Is there a link to this Edelbrock manual online? The pop-up springs were pretty wasted when i finally pulled the needles and pistons out of this carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 Gary, Is there a link to this Edelbrock manual online? The pop-up springs were pretty wasted when i finally pulled the needles and pistons out of this carb. Jim - Heres the Owner's Manual Were you able to salvage the pistons, springs, and rods? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 26, 2017 Author Share Posted August 26, 2017 Jim - Heres the Owner's Manual Were you able to salvage the pistons, springs, and rods? I think so. Obviously I haven't run it yet. The pop up springs have some pitting that bothers me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 I think so. Obviously I haven't run it yet. The pop up springs have some pitting that bothers me. Pits in the springs may change the point at which the pistons pop up. Replacement springs are available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 28, 2017 Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 Pits in the springs may change the point at which the pistons pop up. Replacement springs are available. Well I got it done today. Sorta.... mostly...... Had a tough time locating the 934 PCV grommet and the breather cap grommet for the plastic elbow that points at the air cleaner. Finished the spacer conversion this morning, and sanded the valve cover ribs. Went to my friends and torched out the A.I.R. spider manifolds. Dug up a stepped cover stud and single sided fuel connection from his junk box. Although I thought I set everything up according to the instructions it's evident that the fast idle cam is set way too high and not backing off quick enough. I just loosened the choke cap and set it so the choke can never come on. (It's August) I set the mixture screws for highest steady idle and plus 1/8 turn out. Adjusted idle speed to about 800. First impressions are that it doesn't pull nearly as hard as the Holley. But it seems better mannered on transition from trailing to tip in.. My miss is still there, and is noticed coming from the carb as something between a tic and a faintly metallic sound. I need to investigate. Will have to find a place with shop air so i can bring my leakdown tester. Stupidly I did not check for loose rockers or bent pushrods while I had the covers off. It's late. I've been up since three and at this since 5:30 (except for a trip to the HF tent sale) TTYL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Well I got it done today. Sorta.... mostly...... Had a tough time locating the 934 PCV grommet and the breather cap grommet for the plastic elbow that points at the air cleaner. Finished the spacer conversion this morning, and sanded the valve cover ribs. Went to my friends and torched out the A.I.R. spider manifolds. Dug up a stepped cover stud and single sided fuel connection from his junk box. Although I thought I set everything up according to the instructions it's evident that the fast idle cam is set way too high and not backing off quick enough. I just loosened the choke cap and set it so the choke can never come on. (It's August) I set the mixture screws for highest steady idle and plus 1/8 turn out. Adjusted idle speed to about 800. First impressions are that it doesn't pull nearly as hard as the Holley. But it seems better mannered on transition from trailing to tip in.. My miss is still there, and is noticed coming from the carb as something between a tic and a faintly metallic sound. I need to investigate. Will have to find a place with shop air so i can bring my leakdown tester. Stupidly I did not check for loose rockers or bent pushrods while I had the covers off. It's late. I've been up since three and at this since 5:30 (except for a trip to the HF tent sale) TTYL. I'm gonna guess the reason it doesn't pull as hard as the Holley is that it is much leaner. Are we talking part-throttle or WOT? As for the miss, if the leak-down finds it then it might be a burned valve. But that wouldn't give the noise, which might be loose rocker or bent push rods. However, they wouldn't give a miss would they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 28, 2017 Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 I'm gonna guess the reason it doesn't pull as hard as the Holley is that it is much leaner. Are we talking part-throttle or WOT? As for the miss, if the leak-down finds it then it might be a burned valve. But that wouldn't give the noise, which might be loose rocker or bent push rods. However, they wouldn't give a miss would they? Might be leaner. But the 0-80457s is Holley's 'emissions' carb and 600 cfm v/ the Eddy being 650 and jetted for 'off-road'. I notice this at both part throttle and WFO. The truck just doesn't pull as hard and seems weak at 80-90 (whatever I could get to due to traffic). I might try switching vacuum advance sources as well. Maybe I will set up the advance curve again. But as with any tuning, you need to establish a baseline first. I did see something cool that might be of interest to you when I was up on the highway...... ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Might be leaner. But the 0-80457s is Holley's 'emissions' carb and 600 cfm v/ the Eddy being 650 and jetted for 'off-road'. I notice this at both part throttle and WFO. The truck just doesn't pull as hard and seems weak at 80-90 (whatever I could get to due to traffic). I might try switching vacuum advance sources as well. Maybe I will set up the advance curve again. But as with any tuning, you need to establish a baseline first. I did see something cool that might be of interest to you when I was up on the highway...... ;) Ok, you are just going to tease me? Mention it but don't tell me what it was. As for the carb and power, can you tell a point in the part throttle acceleration when the power picks up? Might be easiest to tell with a vacuum gauge on, but it will be the point where the metering rods pop up. Will be between 3" & 8", but varies with the springs in it. If the power picks up some when the rods pop up but you are still down on power then you are lean across the board. On the secondaries, it is possible they are adjusted such that they aren't opening, or not opening early enough. There should be a set screw and an adjustment screw on the driver's side basically on the end of the secondary air valve's shaft. Hold the adjusting screw, back off the set screw, loosen the adjusting screw a bit, and tighten the set screw. You should be able to get them to open at even low RPM if you get to ~2/3 throttle, and the engine may bog. But at least you know they are working, and you can tighten the setting up to get them to open at what you consider the right point. And, it is also possible the secondaries are just too lean. I have a kit that may have some jets and rods that will work, although I will have to look. So when you want to start tuning I'll send it to you if it has usable rods and jets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 28, 2017 Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 Ok, you are just going to tease me? Mention it but don't tell me what it was. Here's a tease for you.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 28, 2017 Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 Ok, you are just going to tease me? Mention it but don't tell me what it was. Here's a tease for you.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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