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Edelbrock on a stockish 460?


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I ordered a YF cap from eBay.

Hopefully this will get the 650 AVS fully functional.

Timing bump did seem to help a little.

Truck still seems very rich at idle even though I can't turn the screws any leaner without dropping rpm's.

Maybe when I get the choke working I can lean the idle out some more.

I need to check the timing chain for slack (though it was advancing and retarding smoothly yesterday)

Ten years..... maybe it's time for a cam and timing set?

IR thermometer doesn't show any one cylinder as dead.

May be a bad lifter, bent pushrod, or something.

I can not hear the ticking in either valve cover though.

I've never seen a burnt intake valve.

When I clean the engine again I will pull the valve covers and check for loose rockers or one that isn't fully opening.

Yours has a mechanical fuel pump - right? Rich at idle could be due to high float level caused by too much pressure. But most mechanical pumps don't put out more than 6 psi, which is the max for an Eddy.

On the tick, is there any chance you have an exhaust leak?

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Yours has a mechanical fuel pump - right? Rich at idle could be due to high float level caused by too much pressure. But most mechanical pumps don't put out more than 6 psi, which is the max for an Eddy.

On the tick, is there any chance you have an exhaust leak?

Yes a Carter mechanical fuel pump.

The only place I could have a leak is in the thermactor crossover at the

back of the heads.

But I didn't hear anything while poking around back there with my

stethoscope.

More and more this seems like the symptoms of a timing chain.

Rich at idle, lack of power, etc.

The tick could be a bent/burnt valve.

lord knows I run it 'til it floats often enough....

A leakdown will tell more.

Without any shop or space this is difficult.

> Yours has a mechanical fuel pump - right? Rich at idle could be due to

> high float level caused by too much pressure. But most mechanical pumps

> don't put out more than 6 psi, which is the max for an Eddy.

>

> On the tick, is there any chance you have an exhaust leak?

 

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Yes a Carter mechanical fuel pump.

The only place I could have a leak is in the thermactor crossover at the

back of the heads.

But I didn't hear anything while poking around back there with my

stethoscope.

More and more this seems like the symptoms of a timing chain.

Rich at idle, lack of power, etc.

The tick could be a bent/burnt valve.

lord knows I run it 'til it floats often enough....

A leakdown will tell more.

Without any shop or space this is difficult.

> Yours has a mechanical fuel pump - right? Rich at idle could be due to

> high float level caused by too much pressure. But most mechanical pumps

> don't put out more than 6 psi, which is the max for an Eddy.

>

> On the tick, is there any chance you have an exhaust leak?

Was it rich at idle before the carb swap? And down on power as well? Looking for cause and effect.

Yes, a leak-down will find a bent or burnt valve. And a tick is more likely to be bent than burnt. I take it you have a leak-down tester? Just not a source of air? Cooler weather should be coming, so outside might not be too bad.

Oh, and a Carter pump isn't supposed to put out too much for a Carter carb.

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Was it rich at idle before the carb swap? And down on power as well? Looking for cause and effect.

Yes, a leak-down will find a bent or burnt valve. And a tick is more likely to be bent than burnt. I take it you have a leak-down tester? Just not a source of air? Cooler weather should be coming, so outside might not be too bad.

Oh, and a Carter pump isn't supposed to put out too much for a Carter carb.

Yeah, it had a miss and the mileage has been getting worse and worse.

I don't have any jet or spring box to tune this carb, like I do the Holley.

Certainly the valves and vacuum need to be right before trying to set up a new carb.

Soon this hole I'm digging will be deep enough to hang myself...

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Yeah, it had a miss and the mileage has been getting worse and worse.

I don't have any jet or spring box to tune this carb, like I do the Holley.

Certainly the valves and vacuum need to be right before trying to set up a new carb.

Soon this hole I'm digging will be deep enough to hang myself...

I have a jet, spring, and rod box and would be happy to ship it to you - if it'll work. How 'bout you checking the manual for what jets, rods, and springs you are supposed to have and I'll then check the box to see if what it has would work.

But, you are right that the valves and vacuum need to be right before setting a carb. And the timing chain as well.

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I have a jet, spring, and rod box and would be happy to ship it to you - if it'll work. How 'bout you checking the manual for what jets, rods, and springs you are supposed to have and I'll then check the box to see if what it has would work.

But, you are right that the valves and vacuum need to be right before setting a carb. And the timing chain as well.

So, let's not get ahead of ourselves. ...

 

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I ordered a YF cap from eBay.

Hopefully this will get the 650 AVS fully functional.

Timing bump did seem to help a little.

Truck still seems very rich at idle even though I can't turn the screws any leaner without dropping rpm's.

Maybe when I get the choke working I can lean the idle out some more.

I need to check the timing chain for slack (though it was advancing and retarding smoothly yesterday)

Ten years..... maybe it's time for a cam and timing set?

IR thermometer doesn't show any one cylinder as dead.

May be a bad lifter, bent pushrod, or something.

I can not hear the ticking in either valve cover though.

I've never seen a burnt intake valve.

When I clean the engine again I will pull the valve covers and check for loose rockers or one that isn't fully opening.

Well, a Carter YF choke cap works exactly *opposite* of an Edelbrock... :nabble_smiley_hurt:

Time to wire this crap up and have an idea in the morning.

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