Cheap welders?

[swampedout]

Im not sure how to begin this but Ill do my best to explain the situation.

my "shop" has no electricity except a 3600 running watt generator so all my tools are battery powered or pretty low wattage.

I have an old school Apache stick welder which is a briggs n stratton motor with a dc weld unit. Im not too clear on the history of this product or the company that made them but theyre cool units. I found one much cheaper than todays alternatives and the duty cycle on mine is way higher.

However...its a stick welder and I want something to do sheet metal.

Ive been looking at HFs $100 flux core welder, anyone have experience with any of these ridiculously cheap welders?

I might get a bigger genny some day soon so im not neccesarily limited by the 3600w number but I would like to keep it low.

I wish I had money for a nice Miller but the budget for this is a shoe string.

Im also not married to the idea of buying the cheapest welder out there but Ive heard enough good reviews about HFs welders that Im willing to run it through some work in the 1st 90 days and if its junk, return it.

Thoughts?

[Rembrant]

I know nothing about these $100 welders, but the price makes me curious. I have a nice little Lincoln machine, so I don't need a welder, but I'd be curious to hear how well a $100 machine works.

[Gary Lewis]

I know nothing about these $100 welders, but the price makes me curious. I have a nice little Lincoln machine, so I don't need a welder, but I'd be curious to hear how well a $100 machine works.

I don't have any experience with HF welders either. And no experience with flux core at all.

But what I've heard about flux core is that it leaves residue similar to a stick welder. If that's true you have to clean the weld between each pass as you would with stick, meaning use a chipping hammer and/or wire brush. However it is a whole lot less expensive as you don't have the bottle, hoses, and regulator.

So, for $100 I don't think you could go too far wrong.

[Turnburn720]

I don't have any experience with HF welders either. And no experience with flux core at all.

But what I've heard about flux core is that it leaves residue similar to a stick welder. If that's true you have to clean the weld between each pass as you would with stick, meaning use a chipping hammer and/or wire brush. However it is a whole lot less expensive as you don't have the bottle, hoses, and regulator.

So, for $100 I don't think you could go too far wrong.

So I'll repeat what Gary has said, a flux-cored process leaves slag behind, much like a traditional stick process. The difference is that there are basically 2 types of FCAW (flux-cored) processes: inner-shield and dual-shield. IS relies on a heavier flux to protect the puddle from atmospheric contamination while it cools back to a solid state, and DS uses a lighter core PLUS a gas-shielded component (typically either 75/25 mix or pure CO2) to accomplish the same thing. Either will leave behind a coating of slag, with the IS requiring more effort to remove. FCAW is used in situations where you need to lay a lot more metal than SMAW (stick), not necessarily for stuff like sheet metal.

All this is my long-winded way of saying that FCAW stinks for thin stuff (IME, I could be wrong), especially IS, because you need to run heat to get the flux to flow right. The good thing is that for a few bucks you can retrofit almost any FC machine to run traditional short-circuit mig, just by changing out the drive rollers, and maybe the gun liner depending on whether you're changing wire diameter. The main thing is whether the machine is set up to run dual-shield or inner-shield, which is to say that you need to check if it has a barbed gas hookup on the back. If it does, then it's set up to run dual-shield, and it will send gas through the line when you pull the trigger. If it doesn't, then I wouldn't bother.

If you have a stick welder you could always buy a cheap Radnor scratch-start rig, a regulator, and 25 feet of gas hose, and swap the leads to make a poor man's tig welder.

[Rembrant]

So I'll repeat what Gary has said, a flux-cored process leaves slag behind, much like a traditional stick process. The difference is that there are basically 2 types of FCAW (flux-cored) processes: inner-shield and dual-shield. IS relies on a heavier flux to protect the puddle from atmospheric contamination while it cools back to a solid state, and DS uses a lighter core PLUS a gas-shielded component (typically either 75/25 mix or pure CO2) to accomplish the same thing. Either will leave behind a coating of slag, with the IS requiring more effort to remove. FCAW is used in situations where you need to lay a lot more metal than SMAW (stick), not necessarily for stuff like sheet metal.

All this is my long-winded way of saying that FCAW stinks for thin stuff (IME, I could be wrong), especially IS, because you need to run heat to get the flux to flow right. The good thing is that for a few bucks you can retrofit almost any FC machine to run traditional short-circuit mig, just by changing out the drive rollers, and maybe the gun liner depending on whether you're changing wire diameter. The main thing is whether the machine is set up to run dual-shield or inner-shield, which is to say that you need to check if it has a barbed gas hookup on the back. If it does, then it's set up to run dual-shield, and it will send gas through the line when you pull the trigger. If it doesn't, then I wouldn't bother.

If you have a stick welder you could always buy a cheap Radnor scratch-start rig, a regulator, and 25 feet of gas hose, and swap the leads to make a poor man's tig welder.

I bought a nice little Lincoln machine a few years ago. It's uses gas, and it is a small one...but I bought it specifically for doing light sheet metal work. It's a commercial grade machine, but at the bottom end of the scale. It is absolutely lovely to weld with, I must say, but it wasn't cheap either. I've done a lot of stick welding over the years, and I've done quite a bit of work with this one I have now, but I have never touched a flux core wire machine without gas, so I know nothing about them.

I had to weld new rocker panels on to a VW New Beetle a few years ago, and they were paper thin...I think 22ga steel, but the welder worked great on them.

Anyway, that's sort of off topic...

I don't know anything about the welder in question, but for $100 it certainly seems worth the risk.

[Turnburn720]

So I'll repeat what Gary has said, a flux-cored process leaves slag behind, much like a traditional stick process. The difference is that there are basically 2 types of FCAW (flux-cored) processes: inner-shield and dual-shield. IS relies on a heavier flux to protect the puddle from atmospheric contamination while it cools back to a solid state, and DS uses a lighter core PLUS a gas-shielded component (typically either 75/25 mix or pure CO2) to accomplish the same thing. Either will leave behind a coating of slag, with the IS requiring more effort to remove. FCAW is used in situations where you need to lay a lot more metal than SMAW (stick), not necessarily for stuff like sheet metal.

All this is my long-winded way of saying that FCAW stinks for thin stuff (IME, I could be wrong), especially IS, because you need to run heat to get the flux to flow right. The good thing is that for a few bucks you can retrofit almost any FC machine to run traditional short-circuit mig, just by changing out the drive rollers, and maybe the gun liner depending on whether you're changing wire diameter. The main thing is whether the machine is set up to run dual-shield or inner-shield, which is to say that you need to check if it has a barbed gas hookup on the back. If it does, then it's set up to run dual-shield, and it will send gas through the line when you pull the trigger. If it doesn't, then I wouldn't bother.

If you have a stick welder you could always buy a cheap Radnor scratch-start rig, a regulator, and 25 feet of gas hose, and swap the leads to make a poor man's tig welder.

I bought a nice little Lincoln machine a few years ago. It's uses gas, and it is a small one...but I bought it specifically for doing light sheet metal work. It's a commercial grade machine, but at the bottom end of the scale. It is absolutely lovely to weld with, I must say, but it wasn't cheap either. I've done a lot of stick welding over the years, and I've done quite a bit of work with this one I have now, but I have never touched a flux core wire machine without gas, so I know nothing about them.

I had to weld new rocker panels on to a VW New Beetle a few years ago, and they were paper thin...I think 22ga steel, but the welder worked great on them.

Anyway, that's sort of off topic...

I don't know anything about the welder in question, but for $100 it certainly seems worth the risk.

I used to use inner shield flux core a fair amount when I used to work on bridges, as they're a lot less temperamental where wind is an issue, and as a process it's really effective for it's intended application, which is to replace stick welding for deposition-heavy jobs. I think the main reason it's terrible for sheet metal is that there's not anything to cool the puddle down while you're welding other than the heat sink of the piece your welding on. At least with dual shield the c25 can carry quite a bit of the heat away until the puddle is thick enough to shed heat on it's own.

In any event, yeah, I agree, 100 sheckles isn't too much of a hit to deter a little experimentation. The biggest problem with cheap machines IME is that they'll melt metal just fine (we've been doing it for a while now and most of the kinks have been ironed out), but the cheap parts make an unstable arc, so there's a ton of spatter.

I guess that's what they make grinders for though!

[Weberman]

I used to use inner shield flux core a fair amount when I used to work on bridges, as they're a lot less temperamental where wind is an issue, and as a process it's really effective for it's intended application, which is to replace stick welding for deposition-heavy jobs. I think the main reason it's terrible for sheet metal is that there's not anything to cool the puddle down while you're welding other than the heat sink of the piece your welding on. At least with dual shield the c25 can carry quite a bit of the heat away until the puddle is thick enough to shed heat on it's own.

In any event, yeah, I agree, 100 sheckles isn't too much of a hit to deter a little experimentation. The biggest problem with cheap machines IME is that they'll melt metal just fine (we've been doing it for a while now and most of the kinks have been ironed out), but the cheap parts make an unstable arc, so there's a ton of spatter.

I guess that's what they make grinders for though!

I have the Titanium Flux from HF. First time welder and machine. I've been happy with it so far. It is an inverter welder so there is minimal splatter. Its been putting out some nice stuff for the skill that I have (which is 0). I would buy again. Its not the cheap $100 one they have, but I caught it on sale for $150.

Here is a pic of it. Not my best weld but I'm getting there. Any splatter that it made I wiped off with my glove on this.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I have the Titanium Flux from HF. First time welder and machine. I've been happy with it so far. It is an inverter welder so there is minimal splatter. Its been putting out some nice stuff for the skill that I have (which is 0). I would buy again. Its not the cheap $100 one they have, but I caught it on sale for $150.

Here is a pic of it. Not my best weld but I'm getting there. Any splatter that it made I wiped off with my glove on this.

I bought the titanium FC welder last year to fix things around the barn and paddock.

The $100 Chicago Electric welder is AC transformer while the little green lunchbox is IGBT and only 17 Lbs.

It even comes with a shoulder strap!

There is no gas provision with either one of these, but that's to my advantage, as I don't want to be lugging an 80 around the yard.

Honestly, I have to say get yourself a MIG if you want to do body work.

Even turned way down the titanium 125 is too much for that and it leaves soot and spatter.

My MIG is a cheap Italian job from 1980.

Still going strong.

I installed a 120V muffin fan blowing over the rectifier to increase the duty cycle.

And just last week bought a new whip from Amazon because it was old and kinked, plus the trigger was frustrating me.

Wish I had spent that $45 before I welded in the new floor and rocker.

Find something like this for $100 on CL or Marketplace.

You'll be a lot happier.

[Danny G]

I bought the titanium FC welder last year to fix things around the barn and paddock.

The $100 Chicago Electric welder is AC transformer while the little green lunchbox is IGBT and only 17 Lbs.

It even comes with a shoulder strap!

There is no gas provision with either one of these, but that's to my advantage, as I don't want to be lugging an 80 around the yard.

Honestly, I have to say get yourself a MIG if you want to do body work.

Even turned way down the titanium 125 is too much for that and it leaves soot and spatter.

My MIG is a cheap Italian job from 1980.

Still going strong.

I installed a 120V muffin fan blowing over the rectifier to increase the duty cycle.

And just last week bought a new whip from Amazon because it was old and kinked, plus the trigger was frustrating me.

Wish I had spent that $45 before I welded in the new floor and rocker.

Find something like this for $100 on CL or Marketplace.

You'll be a lot happier.

I had bought the cheap $100 one last year to fix some metal gate frames where the angle iron has broken, thought about using it also to weld in the repair pieces to the rusted out rear cab mount/cross member on my truck. Got wayyy to busy with other projects and haven't used yet. BUT I just got all the other materials I need for my gate and will let you know how it runs. At the time I bought it I didn't have a generator capable of running 240 or a 240 outlet in the garage.

That has all changed (8000w Firman duel fuel and working on 240 in the garage soon) so if it is too unsatisfactory ill get a different one, but I am not using it for a pretty weld, but function and putting down a lot of material.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I had bought the cheap $100 one last year to fix some metal gate frames where the angle iron has broken, thought about using it also to weld in the repair pieces to the rusted out rear cab mount/cross member on my truck. Got wayyy to busy with other projects and haven't used yet. BUT I just got all the other materials I need for my gate and will let you know how it runs. At the time I bought it I didn't have a generator capable of running 240 or a 240 outlet in the garage.

That has all changed (8000w Firman duel fuel and working on 240 in the garage soon) so if it is too unsatisfactory ill get a different one, but I am not using it for a pretty weld, but function and putting down a lot of material.

The titanium is WELL worth the extra $50-60.

I've used them both.

I'll have to post some pics of the railing I made, when I can get a new phone.