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Conversion to power doors - Wiring question


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Sounds good. I'll sit back and watch so we aren't talking over each other (where's that popcorn emoticon when you need it :nabble_smiley_beam:).

I should probably rephrase 'separate wire' to avoid anyone else misreading that. To better say it: I wonder if they had two versions of the LB/BK circuit depending upon the Bronco options.

Please don't sit back. I'm trying to figure out why my clutch switch doesn't work. (The starter's relay pulls in w/a fuse in the connector, but not connected to the switch.) So I'm in and out, painfully.

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Please don't sit back. I'm trying to figure out why my clutch switch doesn't work. (The starter's relay pulls in w/a fuse in the connector, but not connected to the switch.) So I'm in and out, painfully.

Gary, reset the switch by sliding the plastic block down the rod.

It will then self adjust the first time you depress the clutch.

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Gary, reset the switch by sliding the plastic block down the rod.

It will then self adjust the first time you depress the clutch.

Jim - Thanks. I've done exactly that, as explained on Big Blue's thread. But 'til now I didn't realize how that switch adjusts itself.

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Jim - Thanks. I've done exactly that, as explained on Big Blue's thread. But 'til now I didn't realize how that switch adjusts itself.

I have returned after further investigation and brought photos. First off, use this diagram for reference:

Diagram.jpg.271eb330bf42ca6ea852caed94b2cf9a.jpg

Here is a picture of the back of my fuse block. You can see the green connector in C1962 that I put in when I installed the power door wiring. Also, you can see a thick light blue wire with black dots (covered in brown dirt) connected at C1960. It's hard to tell it's a connection because the connector is the same color plastic as the fuse block. Seems like this is the tailgate window power source, at lease it was when my truck left the factory, right?

Back_of_fuse_box.thumb.jpg.742e1fa437bd534ab38803972017a652.jpg

Also, at the top left of the dash there is a bundle of wires out of which comes this little blue connector with blue and black wiring:

Blue_Connector_2.thumb.jpg.b3bdead0b46d3bb698039ea416e82fda.jpg

...which is obviously the right connector for the blue wire that comes from the power door jumper wiring:

Blue_Connector.thumb.jpeg.3309e4f0af7f1525ff0ce705e07482f4.jpeg

So, assuming the two blue connectors get plugged into together, does something else need to be unplugged somewhere? I feel like the tailgate had to be getting power from somewhere before I put in the power doors, so don't I need to disconnect that? What is te purpose of the wire that is plugged into C1960?

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I have returned after further investigation and brought photos. First off, use this diagram for reference:

Here is a picture of the back of my fuse block. You can see the green connector in C1962 that I put in when I installed the power door wiring. Also, you can see a thick light blue wire with black dots (covered in brown dirt) connected at C1960. It's hard to tell it's a connection because the connector is the same color plastic as the fuse block. Seems like this is the tailgate window power source, at lease it was when my truck left the factory, right?

Also, at the top left of the dash there is a bundle of wires out of which comes this little blue connector with blue and black wiring:

...which is obviously the right connector for the blue wire that comes from the power door jumper wiring:

So, assuming the two blue connectors get plugged into together, does something else need to be unplugged somewhere? I feel like the tailgate had to be getting power from somewhere before I put in the power doors, so don't I need to disconnect that? What is te purpose of the wire that is plugged into C1960?

Great!

Nope, nothing needs unplugged. The 'new' wire is pulling power from the connector you just found. So it's not that you are providing two sources to the tailgate switch if that's what you are thinking. It's one source from the fuse block feeding both the tailgate window AND the door windows.

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Great!

Nope, nothing needs unplugged. The 'new' wire is pulling power from the connector you just found. So it's not that you are providing two sources to the tailgate switch if that's what you are thinking. It's one source from the fuse block feeding both the tailgate window AND the door windows.

Amen!

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Great!

Nope, nothing needs unplugged. The 'new' wire is pulling power from the connector you just found. So it's not that you are providing two sources to the tailgate switch if that's what you are thinking. It's one source from the fuse block feeding both the tailgate window AND the door windows.

Well when you put it that way, it seems pretty obvious. I had been operating under the false assumption that the wire I plugged into the back of the fuse block at connection C1962 was power for the doors. In fact, it is just power for the door locks. As you pointed out, power for the windows is spliced off the same wire that powers the tailgate window.

Thank you for enlightening me. Maybe now I can finally get these windows to work...

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Well when you put it that way, it seems pretty obvious. I had been operating under the false assumption that the wire I plugged into the back of the fuse block at connection C1962 was power for the doors. In fact, it is just power for the door locks. As you pointed out, power for the windows is spliced off the same wire that powers the tailgate window.

Thank you for enlightening me. Maybe now I can finally get these windows to work...

Scott's the man! :nabble_anim_claps:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Scott's the man! :nabble_anim_claps:

So after I hooked up the wiring as suggested (thanks all), the windows still didn't work. I knew two things with certainty: the motors were new and the wiring was hooked up correctly. I really wracked my brain to explain what was going on. Most of the problems (electrical or otherwise) that I have had with my 928 are because of issues with grounds. I figured I'd start with that and checked the contact with the ground connection in the driver door. That contact was clean, but then it occurred to me that the only way that the ground in the door can work is if the contact between door and the chassis was not insulated. Ultimately, that was the problem. New paint on the door jams and door hinges was acting as an insulator, so I had to run a separate ground wire to the door.

Lesson learned: Paint is a very effective insulator. Always check continuity to ground first!

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So after I hooked up the wiring as suggested (thanks all), the windows still didn't work. I knew two things with certainty: the motors were new and the wiring was hooked up correctly. I really wracked my brain to explain what was going on. Most of the problems (electrical or otherwise) that I have had with my 928 are because of issues with grounds. I figured I'd start with that and checked the contact with the ground connection in the driver door. That contact was clean, but then it occurred to me that the only way that the ground in the door can work is if the contact between door and the chassis was not insulated. Ultimately, that was the problem. New paint on the door jams and door hinges was acting as an insulator, so I had to run a separate ground wire to the door.

Lesson learned: Paint is a very effective insulator. Always check continuity to ground first!

That's a really good lesson to learn, and to communicate. Thanks for passing it on. And I'm glad you got it sorted. :nabble_smiley_good:

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