Rham243 Posted April 10, 2020 Author Share Posted April 10, 2020 See if this helps in tracing things out. The blue is the one I would temporarily disconnect and plug. Okay, disconnect this from the carb side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rham243 Posted April 10, 2020 Author Share Posted April 10, 2020 See if this helps in tracing things out. The blue is the one I would temporarily disconnect and plug. Here is a video of what i did, i am not seeing any change as you can see in the video. Let me know what you think. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4oP2Bp3T8s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 See if this helps in tracing things out. The blue is the one I would temporarily disconnect and plug. Here is a video of what i did, i am not seeing any change as you can see in the video. Let me know what you think. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4oP2Bp3T8s Ok, that was the bowl vent hose, was there any vacuum on the hose? If there was then that may be part of the problem. Does it run any better if you try covering the top of the carburetor? That would indicate it is very lean. I see several things not connected in the video, throttle kicker for one. What is the build date on the truck, it will be on the door sticker, your underhood label says 1984 for emission compliance. The silver piece is the EGR valve and it looks new, did it come with the spacer? Did you get all of the old gasket off the intake manifold when you changed things? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myrl883 Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 Ok, that was the bowl vent hose, was there any vacuum on the hose? If there was then that may be part of the problem. Does it run any better if you try covering the top of the carburetor? That would indicate it is very lean. I see several things not connected in the video, throttle kicker for one. What is the build date on the truck, it will be on the door sticker, your underhood label says 1984 for emission compliance. The silver piece is the EGR valve and it looks new, did it come with the spacer? Did you get all of the old gasket off the intake manifold when you changed things? Just chiming in for a bit - I'm not being critical, but that's a snake pit of spark plug wires that are way longer than they need to be. Look for chafing and arc staining (black spots on the wires) along with places that they may have rubbed and damaged the insulation. I'm assuming that you haven't had a compression test done yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rham243 Posted April 10, 2020 Author Share Posted April 10, 2020 Ok, that was the bowl vent hose, was there any vacuum on the hose? If there was then that may be part of the problem. Does it run any better if you try covering the top of the carburetor? That would indicate it is very lean. I see several things not connected in the video, throttle kicker for one. What is the build date on the truck, it will be on the door sticker, your underhood label says 1984 for emission compliance. The silver piece is the EGR valve and it looks new, did it come with the spacer? Did you get all of the old gasket off the intake manifold when you changed things? Â There was no vacuum on the bowl vent hose that i could feel and it runs the same with the air filter on. Build date on the door sticker says 11/84, title says its an 85 so now im even more confused. EGR did not come with the spacer. Yes, all of the spacer came off easily when i changed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rham243 Posted April 10, 2020 Author Share Posted April 10, 2020 Just chiming in for a bit - I'm not being critical, but that's a snake pit of spark plug wires that are way longer than they need to be. Look for chafing and arc staining (black spots on the wires) along with places that they may have rubbed and damaged the insulation. I'm assuming that you haven't had a compression test done yet? They are dirty (along with everything else) cant tell whats arc staining or just oil spots. heres a pic; Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 Just chiming in for a bit - I'm not being critical, but that's a snake pit of spark plug wires that are way longer than they need to be. Look for chafing and arc staining (black spots on the wires) along with places that they may have rubbed and damaged the insulation. I'm assuming that you haven't had a compression test done yet? They are dirty (along with everything else) cant tell whats arc staining or just oil spots. heres a pic; Ok, first firing order is 15426378 with 1-4 on the right (passenger) side, 5-8 left (driver) side, Ford manuals say wire sequence on left should be 5768 to prevent cross firing. If you want to see if the wires are questionable, open the hood in the dark, if you lots of sparks then they are bad. Old rule I used in my shop was if the date code is over 3 years (it will or used to be 1Q-19 which would be 1st quarter of 2019). If they are older than 1Q-17 replace them. If you can get some good insulated plug wire puller pliers, take them off the plug, but keep the end near the head or manifold and see (a) if you have a good spark and (b) if it makes any difference in the running. One item, you didn't by chance wash the engine did you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rham243 Posted April 11, 2020 Author Share Posted April 11, 2020 Ok, first firing order is 15426378 with 1-4 on the right (passenger) side, 5-8 left (driver) side, Ford manuals say wire sequence on left should be 5768 to prevent cross firing. If you want to see if the wires are questionable, open the hood in the dark, if you lots of sparks then they are bad. Old rule I used in my shop was if the date code is over 3 years (it will or used to be 1Q-19 which would be 1st quarter of 2019). If they are older than 1Q-17 replace them. If you can get some good insulated plug wire puller pliers, take them off the plug, but keep the end near the head or manifold and see (a) if you have a good spark and (b) if it makes any difference in the running. One item, you didn't by chance wash the engine did you? I have not washed it, but then again i did just buy it in November so maybe some did? It was as dirty as it is now when i bought it. I checked the order and it appears to 15426378 so that is good (going off the wires and counterclockwise from the #1 position on the distributor). the driver side firing order is wired 5678 should i switch the 6 and the 7 then could this be the issue? Had to take off and wont be able to test this till tomorrow or Sunday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 Ok, first firing order is 15426378 with 1-4 on the right (passenger) side, 5-8 left (driver) side, Ford manuals say wire sequence on left should be 5768 to prevent cross firing. If you want to see if the wires are questionable, open the hood in the dark, if you lots of sparks then they are bad. Old rule I used in my shop was if the date code is over 3 years (it will or used to be 1Q-19 which would be 1st quarter of 2019). If they are older than 1Q-17 replace them. If you can get some good insulated plug wire puller pliers, take them off the plug, but keep the end near the head or manifold and see (a) if you have a good spark and (b) if it makes any difference in the running. One item, you didn't by chance wash the engine did you? I have not washed it, but then again i did just buy it in November so maybe some did? It was as dirty as it is now when i bought it. I checked the order and it appears to 15426378 so that is good (going off the wires and counterclockwise from the #1 position on the distributor). the driver side firing order is wired 5678 should i switch the 6 and the 7 then could this be the issue? Had to take off and wont be able to test this till tomorrow or Sunday. Bill is East Coast and you are West Coast, so it is possible he won't respond tonight. But he didn't mean to change the firing order. That will for sure cause it to miss. He meant to change the order the wires are run. In other words, don't run 7 & 8 right next to each other. Put #6 between them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 Bill is East Coast and you are West Coast, so it is possible he won't respond tonight. But he didn't mean to change the firing order. That will for sure cause it to miss. He meant to change the order the wires are run. In other words, don't run 7 & 8 right next to each other. Put #6 between them. If #'s 7&8 run right up alongside each other you can 'possibly' get inductive misfire. Given your symptoms, and no glaring cause, I'm going to ask if the timing chain is original. This will always cause a rough idle, and if it gets bad enough the engine will start spitting back out the carb. Take a deep 15/16 socket and a breaker bar. Remove the distributor cap, so you can see the rotor. Rotate the crank, first one way, note the position of the breaker handle, (i..e. 2:00) then turn it back counter clockwise and note where you are the moment the rotor changes direction. It's a simple test that doesn't require any special tools or disassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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