ArdWrknTrk Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 How would they look PC'd black with the recesses red? Judging from your first mockup, quite good. You are speaking of PC'ing just the lock, Or the whole hub? Because I think I like the stainless surrounding it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 How would they look PC'd black with the recesses red? Judging from your first mockup, quite good. You are speaking of PC'ing just the lock, Or the whole hub? Because I think I like the stainless surrounding it. Good question. I meant that I'd leave the outer ring bright stainless, and make the brass black except the recesses would be red, as shown in the mockup. That sorta approximates the rings and center bar of the rear medallion. And it would be easier to do than making the rotating piece brass/black/red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Good question. I meant that I'd leave the outer ring bright stainless, and make the brass black except the recesses would be red, as shown in the mockup. That sorta approximates the rings and center bar of the rear medallion. And it would be easier to do than making the rotating piece brass/black/red. I like it! Dad's truck is really coming together. Everything you've done so far looks great, Gary! I'd be afraid to drive it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 Good question. I meant that I'd leave the outer ring bright stainless, and make the brass black except the recesses would be red, as shown in the mockup. That sorta approximates the rings and center bar of the rear medallion. And it would be easier to do than making the rotating piece brass/black/red. And, in the midst of the this discussion regarding the manual locks, here are the rotors. Think I'll blast them, which I should have done before having them turned, and then paint them. Paint not powder as I don't want to have to mask them with the high-temp tape that would be needed for the oven. On the other hand, I have some of Eastwood's High Temp black powder, and could use that, which would probably stand up to the environment better. And I could mask with aluminum foil to minimize the use of tape. Hmmmm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 I like it! Dad's truck is really coming together. Everything you've done so far looks great, Gary! I'd be afraid to drive it. Thanks, Jim! It feels good to finally have things coming along. To be honest, the front suspension and driveline haven't been something I was looking forward to doing. So many little details. But, now that the suspension itself is done and the driveline is starting to take shape it is feeling better. My goal is to get it sitting on all four tires and then put the engine and transmission in. At that point it can be rolled around, or up on the trailer, and I think I'll turn to Big Blue's upgrades. After all, Dad's truck isn't going to be a driver and Big Blue is. So, I need to spend some time on BB to get him where I want him to be for driving. And then I'll come back to Dad's truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 All - How would they look PC'd black with the recesses red? Gary, I think the look Would be nice, but wouldn’t it be more difficult to have two different PC colors meeting at the edge of the recess? If the raised portion of the brass were to remain brass, you could sand through any irregularities and leave a crisp edge with the recessed color. Maybe I am not understanding the process of applying the color, but it seems to me like that would be really difficult. One approach if you wanted to black out the letters would be a metal oxidizer that as one uses in jewelry making. You paint it into a textured surface (turns it flat black) then you polish the high points. Since the hub is brass, the jewelry oxidizer should work, and remain durable. I’ve done this with silver and it does not wear off even on rings etc., just thought I’d mention it since it is outside the box if you are thinking in terms of automotive finishes. https://www.riogrande.com/product/MidasBlackMaxOxidizerSolution4oz/331053?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4-j3r9jI4AIVAx6tBh0ZOQJZEAQYCSABEgK19PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 All - How would they look PC'd black with the recesses red? Gary, I think the look Would be nice, but wouldn’t it be more difficult to have two different PC colors meeting at the edge of the recess? If the raised portion of the brass were to remain brass, you could sand through any irregularities and leave a crisp edge with the recessed color. Maybe I am not understanding the process of applying the color, but it seems to me like that would be really difficult. One approach if you wanted to black out the letters would be a metal oxidizer that as one uses in jewelry making. You paint it into a textured surface (turns it flat black) then you polish the high points. Since the hub is brass, the jewelry oxidizer should work, and remain durable. I’ve done this with silver and it does not wear off even on rings etc., just thought I’d mention it since it is outside the box if you are thinking in terms of automotive finishes. https://www.riogrande.com/product/MidasBlackMaxOxidizerSolution4oz/331053?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4-j3r9jI4AIVAx6tBh0ZOQJZEAQYCSABEgK19PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Jonathan - You raise good questions. Here are two approaches that might work and then Plan B: Powder: Coat the whole of the brass part with black, and then mask the raised portion by taping it and then using a scalpel to remove the tape at the edges of the recesses and apply the red powder in the recesses. If the tape can be cut cleanly then there should be a crisp edge to the red/black break. Paint: If the above doesn't work, then resort to red paint and a brush Black Medallions: Use black medallions in the rear and use either the Warns, which are already black, or the MM's and have black and brass. Perhaps clear coat the brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Jonathan - You raise good questions. Here are two approaches that might work and then Plan B: Powder: Coat the whole of the brass part with black, and then mask the raised portion by taping it and then using a scalpel to remove the tape at the edges of the recesses and apply the red powder in the recesses. If the tape can be cut cleanly then there should be a crisp edge to the red/black break. Paint: If the above doesn't work, then resort to red paint and a brush Black Medallions: Use black medallions in the rear and use either the Warns, which are already black, or the MM's and have black and brass. Perhaps clear coat the brass. That sounds like a good set of plans Gary. Like I said, the whole powder application process is foreign to me, so you will have a much better idea of what will and won’t work. If it is similar to applying paint then plan 1 seems like the way to go. And I am guessing that the results will be very nice. 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Jim - I measured and the OD of the cap is the same. The Big Blue's hubs are larger in OD, but apparently not in ID. And the gaskets that Vernon had fit the D40 on Dad's truck perfectly, so I think they would interchange. Jonathan - I think I'm with you, the MM's get the nod. And I agree that preserving the antique brass look is going to be hard. But they would eventually turn to that if I didn't put a clear-coat over them. All - How would they look PC'd black with the recesses red? All the originals (manual & auto) were made by Warn, but I don't like the look or feel of their retail dials. I'd do red behind black on the MMs. The cheaper MMs came with black plastic dials (which I prefer because I don't like the brass showing, either). https://supermotors.net/getfile/565568/thumbnail/hublocksnew.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 All the originals (manual & auto) were made by Warn, but I don't like the look or feel of their retail dials. I'd do red behind black on the MMs. The cheaper MMs came with black plastic dials (which I prefer because I don't like the brass showing, either). https://supermotors.net/getfile/565568/thumbnail/hublocksnew.jpg Sounds like the plan is coming together. But, I realized today that the suspension isn't done. I don't yet have the sway bar on. In fact, it hasn't been powder coated, nor has some of its mounting hardware. So, tomorrow I'll be rounding up all the parts and getting ready to blast and PC then next batch. And I'll include the MM dial. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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