Dad's Truck Build

[grumpin]

The height doesn't really matter as it'll be covered with sound deadener, a carpet pad, and then carpet. And it'll be under the console. So it isn't going to be noticeable.

As for finding the right thing, I'll ask John as he uses the stuff all the time. And he can tell me where to get it in Tulsa. We are heading in on Monday, so that should work out well.

But the pdf on 08115 reads like it is the right stuff.

That stuff looks good.

I'll go with what I know and throw this at you. I used to use this a lot back in the day.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ps890.php?gclid=CjwKCAjw8LTmBRBCEiwAbhh-6LKOSACNwZ9eynyMnSj1f_gVLNu-BVtBxZFK_Yfomu9-W0rndrtzoxoCPMkQAvD_BwE

Note that it says B-2, that is the working time, not cure time. 2 as in 2 hours. That should be fine for what you're doing. Should be mixed well.

[Gary Lewis]

That stuff looks good.

I'll go with what I know and throw this at you. I used to use this a lot back in the day.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ps890.php?gclid=CjwKCAjw8LTmBRBCEiwAbhh-6LKOSACNwZ9eynyMnSj1f_gVLNu-BVtBxZFK_Yfomu9-W0rndrtzoxoCPMkQAvD_BwE

Note that it says B-2, that is the working time, not cure time. 2 as in 2 hours. That should be fine for what you're doing. Should be mixed well.

That's good confirmation on the screws and rivets. And, I like what it says about drilling a hole and inserting a screw and then drilling the next hole and inserting a screw - "otherwise holes may not match perfectly".

I have #10 screws, so I'll drill 3/16" holes in the panel, drill a 1/8" pilot to start the self-tapping screws. And I'm going to use 3/16" stainless blind pop rivets, assuming I can find them in the right grip range locally, so will then drill the holes to 3/16" after the adhesive sets up.

And I think I'm sold on using an adhesive designed for panel bonding - assuming I can find it. But, thanks for the suggestions guys.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's good confirmation on the screws and rivets. And, I like what it says about drilling a hole and inserting a screw and then drilling the next hole and inserting a screw - "otherwise holes may not match perfectly".

I have #10 screws, so I'll drill 3/16" holes in the panel, drill a 1/8" pilot to start the self-tapping screws. And I'm going to use 3/16" stainless blind pop rivets, assuming I can find them in the right grip range locally, so will then drill the holes to 3/16" after the adhesive sets up.

And I think I'm sold on using an adhesive designed for panel bonding - assuming I can find it. But, thanks for the suggestions guys.

You can get panel bonding adhesive at any autobody supply.

Just be wary of the cost of the gun to dispense it!... or borrow one and use the brand that fits.... or push it out onto some kind of pallette and mix it like you would Bondo.

Since you're in no rush, a bonder with long working time would ease the stress

 

[Gary Lewis]

You can get panel bonding adhesive at any autobody supply.

Just be wary of the cost of the gun to dispense it!... or borrow one and use the brand that fits.... or push it out onto some kind of pallette and mix it like you would Bondo.

Since you're in no rush, a bonder with long working time would ease the stress

Good points, Jim. I'll check out what the additional costs are for that 3M 08115. But the pdf says:

Use with the following applicators: PN08117 (manual), PN 09930 (pneumatic). 3M™ Mixing Nozzle, PN 08193 (6/bag), PN 08194 (50/box).

For professional use only. Not intended for retail sale.

Hadn't seen the last statement before just looking for the part #'s, but that probably explains why John said he'd tell whomever it was to sell to me.

Meanwhile, back on the patch, it fits like shown below. The bottom pics are looking forward on the left, and looking rearward on the right. There's more gap than I want, and the screws are tight, so I'm going to massage the truck's floor up on the edges and see what I get. But I'm pretty sure I'll have to trim the rear cut back a bit.

Oh yes, you can see the proximity of the seat belt anchors, which is one reason I want this to be solid. But with the adhesive on doubled pieces plus the rivets it should be at least as strong as it was originally.

[Gary Lewis]

Good points, Jim. I'll check out what the additional costs are for that 3M 08115. But the pdf says:

Use with the following applicators: PN08117 (manual), PN 09930 (pneumatic). 3M™ Mixing Nozzle, PN 08193 (6/bag), PN 08194 (50/box).

For professional use only. Not intended for retail sale.

Hadn't seen the last statement before just looking for the part #'s, but that probably explains why John said he'd tell whomever it was to sell to me.

Meanwhile, back on the patch, it fits like shown below. The bottom pics are looking forward on the left, and looking rearward on the right. There's more gap than I want, and the screws are tight, so I'm going to massage the truck's floor up on the edges and see what I get. But I'm pretty sure I'll have to trim the rear cut back a bit.

Oh yes, you can see the proximity of the seat belt anchors, which is one reason I want this to be solid. But with the adhesive on doubled pieces plus the rivets it should be at least as strong as it was originally.

Ok, massaging the floor did the trick. Everything fits tightly except for the two grooves shown below in the old picture w/o massaging, and they have maybe a 1/4" gap. But the gap just goes back 1/8" or so before the two pieces come together. I'm thinking that the adhesive will fill that nicely, and any gap left will get filled with the undercoating John sprays on. Thoughts?

As for the accessories for the adhesive, Jim is absolutely right. Looks like I'd better see if I can borrow the applicator from John.

For 3M 08115 you need:

• 3M 08115 Panel Bonding Adhesive - 200 ml $41

• 3M 08117 MixPac Applicator Gun for 200 ml Cartridges $349

• 3M 8193 Mixing Nozzle, 1 Pack $14

[Ford F834]

Ok, massaging the floor did the trick. Everything fits tightly except for the two grooves shown below in the old picture w/o massaging, and they have maybe a 1/4" gap. But the gap just goes back 1/8" or so before the two pieces come together. I'm thinking that the adhesive will fill that nicely, and any gap left will get filled with the undercoating John sprays on. Thoughts?

As for the accessories for the adhesive, Jim is absolutely right. Looks like I'd better see if I can borrow the applicator from John.

For 3M 08115 you need:

• 3M 08115 Panel Bonding Adhesive - 200 ml $41

• 3M 08117 MixPac Applicator Gun for 200 ml Cartridges $349

• 3M 8193 Mixing Nozzle, 1 Pack $14

Gary, pardon my question if it’s been covered already but is there a reason you don’t just weld the new piece into place?

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, pardon my question if it’s been covered already but is there a reason you don’t just weld the new piece into place?

Because John doesn't think I should. The heat would melt the bed liner he used underneath, and it would mess up a lot of paint. This way we just have a much smaller area to clean up.

[ArdWrknTrk]

As for the accessories for the adhesive, Jim is absolutely right. Looks like I'd better see if I can borrow the applicator from John.

• 3M 08117 MixPac Applicator Gun for 200 ml Cartridges $349

Yup.

That's why I chose 3M.

At least the gun won't be obsolete in a year or two.

But it's a big nut for a one off job.

Ask Brandon about Hilti plural mix guns for setting rebar or threaded rod in concrete and block.

Though they aren't quite so proud of them as 3M are.

If your body man will loan it to you for a day, great! You're much better off.

The mixing tip is a consumable, but this is why I floated the idea of mixing by hand. (It can be done, in a pinch)

 

[salans7]

As for the accessories for the adhesive, Jim is absolutely right. Looks like I'd better see if I can borrow the applicator from John.

• 3M 08117 MixPac Applicator Gun for 200 ml Cartridges $349

Yup.

That's why I chose 3M.

At least the gun won't be obsolete in a year or two.

But it's a big nut for a one off job.

Ask Brandon about Hilti plural mix guns for setting rebar or threaded rod in concrete and block.

Though they aren't quite so proud of them as 3M are.

If your body man will loan it to you for a day, great! You're much better off.

The mixing tip is a consumable, but this is why I floated the idea of mixing by hand. (It can be done, in a pinch)

That photo of the cut floor hurts, and it's not even my truck. I would totally do that on my truck, and definitely a mud truck, but there's no way I would do it on Dad's truck. Props to you, I know that had to be a hard decision.

[Gary Lewis]

As for the accessories for the adhesive, Jim is absolutely right. Looks like I'd better see if I can borrow the applicator from John.

• 3M 08117 MixPac Applicator Gun for 200 ml Cartridges $349

Yup.

That's why I chose 3M.

At least the gun won't be obsolete in a year or two.

But it's a big nut for a one off job.

Ask Brandon about Hilti plural mix guns for setting rebar or threaded rod in concrete and block.

Though they aren't quite so proud of them as 3M are.

If your body man will loan it to you for a day, great! You're much better off.

The mixing tip is a consumable, but this is why I floated the idea of mixing by hand. (It can be done, in a pinch)

Jim - Just got a text from John, the paint/body man, and he'll call me on Monday with the info. We are headed to T-town that day so I should be able to pick the adhesive, as well as the rivets, up. And in the midst of that is, I think, an implied I'll-loan-you-the-tool.

Shaun - It was tough to do. But, having already had an E4OD built and installed, something had to be done and this looked like the least-bad solution. In the end it'll work out fine and with the bedliner below and sound deadener above no one will be able to see it.