Steve83 Posted May 3, 2019 Share Posted May 3, 2019 Trial fitting of the floor piece is going well.Was the donor the same year (range) as Dad's, or a later truck with the factory longer bump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 3, 2019 Share Posted May 3, 2019 SUCCESS!!!! I got the floor cut and the plan will work. I'll include a bunch of pictures below to document what I did, but the bottom line is that there is currently 1 1/8" of clearance, so when the 3/8" spacers are taken out and the mounts tightened down, which will probably be about 1/4", there will be 1/2" of clearance. But, I also modified the plans for positioning the patch with pop rivets. John and I'd agreed that I could probably get by with 2 - 4 rivets, but I'm now planning to use 16 of them. The reason is that the edges of the floor turn down away from the patch, and unless I pull them up with the rivets there will be a gap, albeit filled with adhesive. So I've planned to use rivets as indicated by the black dots, left, and the reason why to the right: Ow Gary! That looks like it must have been painful after all the time and money you have into that cab. But it is progress. And Progress Is Good! Just a suggestion. Dont rely on pop rivets to *pull* anything together. Use Clecos, or drill only the patch and use self tapping sheet metal screws to pull the patch tight. Then remove one screw at a time, drill for the rivet and install. On second thought... don't use Clecos. Because they are tough to clean and if panel bond gets into them you may as well toss them in the trash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 4, 2019 Author Share Posted May 4, 2019 Ow Gary! That looks like it must have been painful after all the time and money you have into that cab. But it is progress. And Progress Is Good! Just a suggestion. Dont rely on pop rivets to *pull* anything together. Use Clecos, or drill only the patch and use self tapping sheet metal screws to pull the patch tight. Then remove one screw at a time, drill for the rivet and install. On second thought... don't use Clecos. Because they are tough to clean and if panel bond gets into them you may as well toss them in the trash. Steve - The piece was from an '85 regular cab, and was identical to the floor of Dad's truck. That let me move it back 2", which got the clearance I needed, but still have it mate to the floor nicely. I wonder if a later floor would work as well, or maybe even better. I wish I still had Huck, both to have tried that as well as to get the crossmember for Big Blue. Jim - It was nerve wracking to say the least. What if it doesn't work and I have a hole in the floor? But a lot of study and the Photoshop playing showed it would work, so I was game. As for the fasteners, I like the sheet metal screw suggestion. You are right that pop rivets don't always pull things together, and when I have the adhesive in there I sure don't want to be drilling a rivet out. But I think I'll drill pilot holes in the patch, then drill starter holes in the floor. And I'll do that today to ensure that it is going to go together nicely w/o having to bend things. Then I'll pick up the adhesive when we are in Tulsa on Monday and be ready to do the work on Tuesday. As said, Brandon recommended this adhesive, M1, and I talked it over with John and he thought it would be fine. One of its pluses is that it has good flexibility as well as adhesion. Initially I worried that it might not be strong enough, but with 16 pop rivets holding the patch on I am no longer worried about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 Steve - The piece was from an '85 regular cab, and was identical to the floor of Dad's truck. That let me move it back 2", which got the clearance I needed, but still have it mate to the floor nicely. I wonder if a later floor would work as well, or maybe even better. I wish I still had Huck, both to have tried that as well as to get the crossmember for Big Blue. Jim - It was nerve wracking to say the least. What if it doesn't work and I have a hole in the floor? But a lot of study and the Photoshop playing showed it would work, so I was game. As for the fasteners, I like the sheet metal screw suggestion. You are right that pop rivets don't always pull things together, and when I have the adhesive in there I sure don't want to be drilling a rivet out. But I think I'll drill pilot holes in the patch, then drill starter holes in the floor. And I'll do that today to ensure that it is going to go together nicely w/o having to bend things. Then I'll pick up the adhesive when we are in Tulsa on Monday and be ready to do the work on Tuesday. As said, Brandon recommended this adhesive, M1, and I talked it over with John and he thought it would be fine. One of its pluses is that it has good flexibility as well as adhesion. Initially I worried that it might not be strong enough, but with 16 pop rivets holding the patch on I am no longer worried about that. Wow Gary, Reading the data link for M1 seems more a caulk than any panel bonding adhesive like I have used from 3M. Reconsider pulling anything tight using that, as their chart shows a maximum 2:1 ratio. So... if you had a 1/2" overlap you would need a minimum 1/4" thickness of adhesive. It might seal but would never be rigid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 4, 2019 Author Share Posted May 4, 2019 Wow Gary, Reading the data link for M1 seems more a caulk than any panel bonding adhesive like I have used from 3M. Reconsider pulling anything tight using that, as their chart shows a maximum 2:1 ratio. So... if you had a 1/2" overlap you would need a minimum 1/4" thickness of adhesive. It might seal but would never be rigid. Hmmm, that doesn't seem like what I want then. Do you have a recommendation? I'll text John, my paint/body man and see what he suggests for hanging fenders and bed sides. I really want something that bonds tightly as the seat belt anchors aren't very far away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 4, 2019 Author Share Posted May 4, 2019 Hmmm, that doesn't seem like what I want then. Do you have a recommendation? I'll text John, my paint/body man and see what he suggests for hanging fenders and bed sides. I really want something that bonds tightly as the seat belt anchors aren't very far away. And, I have 1" of overlap in many places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 4, 2019 Author Share Posted May 4, 2019 And, I have 1" of overlap in many places. How 'bout 3M 08115. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 Hmmm, that doesn't seem like what I want then. Do you have a recommendation? I'll text John, my paint/body man and see what he suggests for hanging fenders and bed sides. I really want something that bonds tightly as the seat belt anchors aren't very far away. I've only used the 3M products because I have their proper plural component gun. There are different formulas for temperatures, open time, bond strength, rigidity v/s elasticity. Check their website industrial/autobody for specs and SDS. Otherwise, ask at a volume body shop what they use and why it is the best product for them. I don't have a lot of experience but have used the 3M product. Have you considered a flanging tool so the patch sits flat/flush? I guess it doesn't matter much given the location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 4, 2019 Author Share Posted May 4, 2019 I've only used the 3M products because I have their proper plural component gun. There are different formulas for temperatures, open time, bond strength, rigidity v/s elasticity. Check their website industrial/autobody for specs and SDS. Otherwise, ask at a volume body shop what they use and why it is the best product for them. I don't have a lot of experience but have used the 3M product. Have you considered a flanging tool so the patch sits flat/flush? I guess it doesn't matter much given the location. The height doesn't really matter as it'll be covered with sound deadener, a carpet pad, and then carpet. And it'll be under the console. So it isn't going to be noticeable. As for finding the right thing, I'll ask John as he uses the stuff all the time. And he can tell me where to get it in Tulsa. We are heading in on Monday, so that should work out well. But the pdf on 08115 reads like it is the right stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 ...drill only the patch and use self tapping sheet metal screws to pull the patch tight. Then remove one screw at a time, drill for the rivet and install.That's exactly what Ford recommends in this TSB: https://supermotors.net/getfile/157573/thumbnail/3.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/157577/thumbnail/7.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/157578/thumbnail/8.jpg I use JB Weld as the panel adhesive. https://supermotors.net/getfile/927478/thumbnail/plates.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/927628/thumbnail/qlateinstl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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