Dad's Truck Build

[Gary Lewis]

Too easy?!?! Nobody in their right mind would ever do this - assuming "this" is take every nut, bolt, washer, and spring down to base metal and then coat it.

Bing offers: nobody in their right mind. phrase. If you say that nobody in their right mind would do a particular thing, you are emphasizing that it is an irrational thing to do and you would be surprised if anyone did it. [emphasis]

Yeahbut, I have a left-handed friend who had a sign on his desk that said "If the right side of the brain controls the left side of the body, then only left-handed people are in their right minds."

Therefore, only right-handed people would do what I'm doing?

[Ford F834]

Yeahbut, I have a left-handed friend who had a sign on his desk that said "If the right side of the brain controls the left side of the body, then only left-handed people are in their right minds."

Therefore, only right-handed people would do what I'm doing?

Or the adage that in the left side of my brain nothing is right, and in the right side of my brain there is nothing left 🤪

[1986F150Six]

Or the adage that in the left side of my brain nothing is right, and in the right side of my brain there is nothing left 🤪

[Steve83]

...the ring gear measures from .360" to .460" from the mounting face. I just hope that's within tolerance.

Remember that it's a FLEXIBLE PLATE... Until it's bolted to the crank hub AND to the torque converter in a transmission, it can be wonky as hell, and still work perfectly. If you're going to check its axial runout, you have to wait until the bellhousing is bolted up & the TC nuts are tight.

"...When converter is properly seated into the trans the TC center hub will be ¼" below the matting surface as measured off the bell housing face via a straight edge for reference."

This is from the SM:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/288132/thumbnail/transtcinstalle4od.jpg

40. Align holes and install new pump gasket into case.

 

41. Install input shaft (long splined end first) and thread Aligning Pin T89T-70010-B into case.

 

42. Using petroleum jelly to hold in place, make sure that thrust washer 7D014 (1) and needle bearing assembly 7E486 (2A) are in place before installing pump.

 

43. Install the pump into the case. Orient the filter inlet tube bore toward the 6 o'clock position. Fully seat the pump using hand pressure only.

CAUTION:Do not use bolts to draw pump into the case.

 

44. Remove old rubber coated washers from the nine pump-to-case bolts. Install nine new pump bolt washers (7G379). Remove Aligning Pin T89T-70010-B. Install nine pump bolts (10mm socket). Tighten to 24-31 N-m (18-23 ft-lb) alternating bolts. Remove input shaft.

CAUTION:Remove input shaft prior to rotating transmission.

NOTE: Tighten pump bolts alternately to avoid possible damage.

What am I missing?

Remember that you have to turn the crank somehow to install the TC nuts, so be prepared to pull the spark plugs & either prybar the ring gear, or wrench the HB bolt.

...provided the rear of the block is in the same place as a 460...

AFAIK, the rear face of the block is always at the same location in the chassis, for all engine/trans combos.

Maybe the E4OD trucks had more or different holes drilled.

Some (that I've never seen IRL) attached to both frame webs:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/518610/thumbnail/framedetails92.jpg

But AFAIK, all frames after '88MY are drilled to accept these 3 crossmembers:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/929327/thumbnail/transxmbr.jpg

That means 2 sets of holes on the driver's rail, and 3 (including the E4OD web holes) on the passenger's.

I am pretty sure F150s got the E4OD as did Broncos, it was used on the 300 and 351 applications as the AOD/AODE/4R70W wasn't considered strong enough for the torque of those engines. This would most likely have been aero nose models (1992-96), although possibly some late brick nose models could have had it, particularly 4WD models.

Regardless of 4WD; the E4OD came out in the '89MY and was used in all fullsize Ford light trucks through '96/7, as the TSB near the middle of this caption explains:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/704885/thumbnail/e4odsolenoidcharts.jpg

I vaguely believe I've encountered a (VERY) few factory 5.0L E4ODs.

[Gary Lewis]

...the ring gear measures from .360" to .460" from the mounting face. I just hope that's within tolerance.

Remember that it's a FLEXIBLE PLATE... Until it's bolted to the crank hub AND to the torque converter in a transmission, it can be wonky as hell, and still work perfectly. If you're going to check its axial runout, you have to wait until the bellhousing is bolted up & the TC nuts are tight.

"...When converter is properly seated into the trans the TC center hub will be ¼" below the matting surface as measured off the bell housing face via a straight edge for reference."

This is from the SM:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/288132/thumbnail/transtcinstalle4od.jpg

40. Align holes and install new pump gasket into case.

 

41. Install input shaft (long splined end first) and thread Aligning Pin T89T-70010-B into case.

 

42. Using petroleum jelly to hold in place, make sure that thrust washer 7D014 (1) and needle bearing assembly 7E486 (2A) are in place before installing pump.

 

43. Install the pump into the case. Orient the filter inlet tube bore toward the 6 o'clock position. Fully seat the pump using hand pressure only.

CAUTION:Do not use bolts to draw pump into the case.

 

44. Remove old rubber coated washers from the nine pump-to-case bolts. Install nine new pump bolt washers (7G379). Remove Aligning Pin T89T-70010-B. Install nine pump bolts (10mm socket). Tighten to 24-31 N-m (18-23 ft-lb) alternating bolts. Remove input shaft.

CAUTION:Remove input shaft prior to rotating transmission.

NOTE: Tighten pump bolts alternately to avoid possible damage.

What am I missing?

Remember that you have to turn the crank somehow to install the TC nuts, so be prepared to pull the spark plugs & either prybar the ring gear, or wrench the HB bolt.

...provided the rear of the block is in the same place as a 460...

AFAIK, the rear face of the block is always at the same location in the chassis, for all engine/trans combos.

Maybe the E4OD trucks had more or different holes drilled.

Some (that I've never seen IRL) attached to both frame webs:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/518610/thumbnail/framedetails92.jpg

But AFAIK, all frames after '88MY are drilled to accept these 3 crossmembers:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/929327/thumbnail/transxmbr.jpg

That means 2 sets of holes on the driver's rail, and 3 (including the E4OD web holes) on the passenger's.

I am pretty sure F150s got the E4OD as did Broncos, it was used on the 300 and 351 applications as the AOD/AODE/4R70W wasn't considered strong enough for the torque of those engines. This would most likely have been aero nose models (1992-96), although possibly some late brick nose models could have had it, particularly 4WD models.

Regardless of 4WD; the E4OD came out in the '89MY and was used in all fullsize Ford light trucks through '96/7, as the TSB near the middle of this caption explains:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/704885/thumbnail/e4odsolenoidcharts.jpg

I vaguely believe I've encountered a (VERY) few factory 5.0L E4ODs.

Very good info. Thanks, Steve.

On the flexi plate, I'd hoped that's right, but the others I have don't have the runout when not installed. Maybe because they have been installed?

On the rear face of the engine, if all C6's are the same length then the rear faces must be at the same place because they all use the same crossmember. But I don't know if a 460's C6 is the same length as an M-Block's C6. I know the crank faces are in different positions relative to the rear face of the block. So does that make the integrated bell housing different? Anyway, I that will take some thinking about. Perhaps people can measure some transmissions?

The illustration of installing the torque converter is a big help. And the description of how to install the input shaft, long splined end first, certainly answers that question.

Last, the illustrations of the crossmembers helps as well. Not only do they show how it mounts, but they show the nut/bolt direction and torque values. I like installing things the right way. (Did you know that the nuts/bolts that tighten the adjusting sleeves on the tie rods are supposed to be installed one way on the left side and the other way on the right?)

Thanks again.

[Gary Lewis]

Very good info. Thanks, Steve.

On the flexi plate, I'd hoped that's right, but the others I have don't have the runout when not installed. Maybe because they have been installed?

On the rear face of the engine, if all C6's are the same length then the rear faces must be at the same place because they all use the same crossmember. But I don't know if a 460's C6 is the same length as an M-Block's C6. I know the crank faces are in different positions relative to the rear face of the block. So does that make the integrated bell housing different? Anyway, I that will take some thinking about. Perhaps people can measure some transmissions?

The illustration of installing the torque converter is a big help. And the description of how to install the input shaft, long splined end first, certainly answers that question.

Last, the illustrations of the crossmembers helps as well. Not only do they show how it mounts, but they show the nut/bolt direction and torque values. I like installing things the right way. (Did you know that the nuts/bolts that tighten the adjusting sleeves on the tie rods are supposed to be installed one way on the left side and the other way on the right?)

Thanks again.

Got a lot of cleaning and re-organizing done in the shop today, including taking 5 tires and wheels, an intake manifold and a couple exhaust manifolds, and lots other things to the attic.

And then I got to weld a bit as one of the handles on the shop crane had separated from the nut. It won't come off now.

Then I decided I needed to try the shop crane out, and this happened:

Tomorrow is more cleaning and then wrapping up a few loose ends, like torquing the flexplate and transmission mount bolts, figuring out how to get the tranny off the engine stand when the two sets of legs want to occupy the same space, etc.

I hope Monday evening I'll be singing:

Monday, Monday, so good to me

Monday mornin´, it was all I hoped it would be!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got a lot of cleaning and re-organizing done in the shop today, including taking 5 tires and wheels, an intake manifold and a couple exhaust manifolds, and lots other things to the attic.

And then I got to weld a bit as one of the handles on the shop crane had separated from the nut. It won't come off now.

Then I decided I needed to try the shop crane out, and this happened:

Tomorrow is more cleaning and then wrapping up a few loose ends, like torquing the flexplate and transmission mount bolts, figuring out how to get the tranny off the engine stand when the two sets of legs want to occupy the same space, etc.

I hope Monday evening I'll be singing:

Monday, Monday, so good to me

Monday mornin´, it was all I hoped it would be!

Congratulations Gary

Hope everything is two steps forward from here.

Progress is good!

[Gary Lewis]

Congratulations Gary

Hope everything is two steps forward from here.

Progress is good!

Yes sir, progress is good!

[Steve83]

Did you know that the nuts/bolts that tighten the adjusting sleeves on the tie rods are supposed to be installed one way on the left side and the other way on the right?

Yes, and I recommend NOT doing it that way. I've tried for years to think of why Ford might specify that, with no good guess or any documentation to explain their reasoning. But I've encountered one moderately-good (although exceptionally-rare) reason NOT to:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/851337/thumbnail/23blown.jpg

[Gary Lewis]

Did you know that the nuts/bolts that tighten the adjusting sleeves on the tie rods are supposed to be installed one way on the left side and the other way on the right?

Yes, and I recommend NOT doing it that way. I've tried for years to think of why Ford might specify that, with no good guess or any documentation to explain their reasoning. But I've encountered one moderately-good (although exceptionally-rare) reason NOT to:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/851337/thumbnail/23blown.jpg

Ouch! That's a seriously-bent tie rod! Don't think I've ever seen one bent like that.