Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 Haven't done a king pin, but the ball joints aren't too bad if you know how. #1 was a pain and #2 was easy to get them into the knuckle. But getting the knuckle on the axle was the other way 'round: #1 was easy and #2 a pain - but I think that was because I didn't follow the process. We will see on the 'morrow. Today was a good day. Several steps forward and none back. First, I broke the driver's side ball joints loose and went through the tightening procedure from the shop manual. And it worked. Next, I slipped the powder-coated brake shields on the knuckles and secured them with a nut each. I also looked up the nuts to secure the spindles to the knuckles and cleaned them in prep for media blasting and then powder coating. (And I also found two windshield trim pieces off of Huck and put them aside for media blasting and powder coating. ) Then it was time to take the ball joint tool back to O'Reilly's. But before I went I pressed the studs out of the hub/rotor combo's and took the rotors with me to have them turned. They'll be ready tomorrow so I'll pick them up then - before the ice and/or snow hits. And, while I was at O'Reilly's I picked up some Ultra Black so I could install the D44 in front. (More of which in a mo.) But, as I attempted to leave in Big Blue the starter relay didn't pull in. Read how I fixed it in WHYDTYTT. Ok, so back home and I cleaned the gasket surface on the D44, applied the Ultra Black to the diff, added two locating studs, slipped the gasket on and pressed it into the goo, and then applied more goo to the face of the gasket. And then the fun began. I carried it to the truck, intending to lift it to eye-level and slip it into the back of the left axle. But, somewhere along the way I got old, and that chunk wasn't coming up to eye level. Ultimately I rolled a chair under the truck, dropped the truck as low as I could get it and still sit under it, and then was able to pick the chunk up and get it in there. The bolts are now snugged up and tomorrow I'll torque them down. And, I also hope to media blast the hubs, spindle nuts, and the center of the locking hubs and powder coat them. The hub and nuts will be black, but I'm planning on coating the center of the Mile Marker locking hubs in red so they look like the original Warn red plastic units. Oh yes, I also ordered new Timken bearings and seals for the front. I got to looking at the bearings that were in there and while they looked good, they were not the originals. In fact, there were at least three brands of parts in four bearings, and several of them said "China". So I decided it was time for new ones. As said, it was a good day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Today was a good day. Several steps forward and none back. First, I broke the driver's side ball joints loose and went through the tightening procedure from the shop manual. And it worked. Next, I slipped the powder-coated brake shields on the knuckles and secured them with a nut each. I also looked up the nuts to secure the spindles to the knuckles and cleaned them in prep for media blasting and then powder coating. (And I also found two windshield trim pieces off of Huck and put them aside for media blasting and powder coating. ) Then it was time to take the ball joint tool back to O'Reilly's. But before I went I pressed the studs out of the hub/rotor combo's and took the rotors with me to have them turned. They'll be ready tomorrow so I'll pick them up then - before the ice and/or snow hits. And, while I was at O'Reilly's I picked up some Ultra Black so I could install the D44 in front. (More of which in a mo.) But, as I attempted to leave in Big Blue the starter relay didn't pull in. Read how I fixed it in WHYDTYTT. Ok, so back home and I cleaned the gasket surface on the D44, applied the Ultra Black to the diff, added two locating studs, slipped the gasket on and pressed it into the goo, and then applied more goo to the face of the gasket. And then the fun began. I carried it to the truck, intending to lift it to eye-level and slip it into the back of the left axle. But, somewhere along the way I got old, and that chunk wasn't coming up to eye level. Ultimately I rolled a chair under the truck, dropped the truck as low as I could get it and still sit under it, and then was able to pick the chunk up and get it in there. The bolts are now snugged up and tomorrow I'll torque them down. And, I also hope to media blast the hubs, spindle nuts, and the center of the locking hubs and powder coat them. The hub and nuts will be black, but I'm planning on coating the center of the Mile Marker locking hubs in red so they look like the original Warn red plastic units. Oh yes, I also ordered new Timken bearings and seals for the front. I got to looking at the bearings that were in there and while they looked good, they were not the originals. In fact, there were at least three brands of parts in four bearings, and several of them said "China". So I decided it was time for new ones. As said, it was a good day. That Ultra Black is heavy! Looks good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 That Ultra Black is heavy! Looks good! Yes, it certainly is! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Yes, it certainly is! Thanks! You are making mine look like I am just throwing it together with out cleaning or painting anything. Keep doing that Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 You are making mine look like I am just throwing it together with out cleaning or painting anything. Keep doing that Dave ---- If I do another anything, I'll do it your way. This way takes WAAAAAAAAY too LOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 If I do another anything, I'll do it your way. This way takes WAAAAAAAAY too LOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG! Nice progress Gary! That chunk is a heavy turd, and terribly awkward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Nice progress Gary! That chunk is a heavy turd, and terribly awkward. Your truck looks wonderful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 Your truck looks wonderful! Thanks, guys. It feels good to be getting things done. And, at this point the suspension is DONE! Now we are into the front driveline, with the D44 being the first piece. But no one mentioned my plan to PC the hub center red. Was that because you missed it? Or don't like it and didn't want to hurt my feelings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Thanks, guys. It feels good to be getting things done. And, at this point the suspension is DONE! Now we are into the front driveline, with the D44 being the first piece. But no one mentioned my plan to PC the hub center red. Was that because you missed it? Or don't like it and didn't want to hurt my feelings? I think the red centers is a great idea Gary. My crew cab still has the original hubs, but they are very ashy by now, almost hard to tell they were ever red. The hubs on my ‘81 are aftermarket. They look good (not weathered) but I prefer the more original look. If you can make them original looking + durable that would be a nice win! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 I think the red centers is a great idea Gary. My crew cab still has the original hubs, but they are very ashy by now, almost hard to tell they were ever red. The hubs on my ‘81 are aftermarket. They look good (not weathered) but I prefer the more original look. If you can make them original looking + durable that would be a nice win! Thanks. These are Mile Marker aftermarkets. Chrome or stainless outer, and a brass inner. So PC'ing the inner red would make them look close to original, and with the red center on the rear aluminum wheels it'll come close to matching. Here's kinda what I'm thinking: But, the original ones were all red - right? Would it be better to make the whole center red? It would be easier to PC it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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