Gary Lewis Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 It is now apart, I did end up needing a socket. Not a huge problem, it was available fro my local Advance guys, $21 sounded affordable enough knowing that I'll be digging back into these hubs again while I own the truck. All that I had to do was, don my COVID mask and gloves, and head out to get it. Dana 44HD Expanded view https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/83JDDPqn_iTXeNbEdLZulhi9Nm_WRN1VyPNSUOabZpT3psVe1QGTCwJKDbJzt8Wx-620ExsGKIp88uOv1e-w3nqjhs4vT9xfLQse-8dI1nHmIO8bBmgo91HK3PaDlzfojv_jYDqfBA=w2400 The Hub https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qmPF15fdQfEygzrwqtGE6xyfNALDS0Et-VtrI5qI8wBWTFH1_g8w198ScYMl_lqfD3_kAzDOIVZpkTkycWVMgkBEreUHZV7gkUoHFvfxeNXbNsuu5OqbyRlzvPTIC4bOOxOSlygcow=w2400 The Locking Hub https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3ms7_keVARgS03q7BX7SZzDXn3qO7ZxjwZrOmPv5k14fgAHInAJ89n1yPpEK4yWYfr8bmpNop0NgKyQB9G74SDHmNNxJbL0_hYU_Yi2m0pkvoQM3PWkbRzeh5m4lKuhA1COo27dQig=w2400 Locking Hub Romoved https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hTk1S9ScoyjATrAxfGMmGuYzIW1NacxpttvNbub_i-70UUf1AlQJ2qXFZWFZ5rD2-xVJSB9v9wdkndm24nzKwUKe-pZcVnKtudpssHEs89dUYeuqjiYG2mVNfS6Ben4enZO4jA_yPg=w2400 Snap Ring removal https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Oc-3jMRI4rQq-5DITSEb9iy0b09mrDPiT0A43JXRsYZwDrMApcSfFNWqW8Ojqnb33pGAswK-lvCauwbszzJpynYgYJZDt5aTAWWx4EZ5aSHQlsyhoYms1U6GsXBwswhz_GeUD3mF7g=w2400 Snap Ring and lock removed https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/482QtVvOihFsDaR8G_wH7d2Vm2r5h2tzQjkUZDvktpWlYO_QMyl3mxc8Z00R6mJ66z3inbWnXPn83ttsaH8-L5UwgDUorcU1yAd7gg2ZO3dGy93WbdbsNiSBWlR6T9gQEqEKPP33JQ=w2400 As promised I've provided the Non working sockets that were suggested to me: Socket doesn't fit: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/811N4eyjwcGR6kVNMfLfdexz0h6GLTWHTbpTnB7vm2udi9NXdxRlloZMZ799n-yTuoT5rQ-pmTOV6inO99oTj80wqa98VXCldqY7O0hIzygxS0gCBFQHZPbh2V0b1VT2H1LGp-u4mw=w2400 Sad Socket: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1KKAwy8ztEsnxVLHpDIHZQ8H9pUKlCXxu41bsGHLvMYos42SReU9Gd6dVzYFH3WwZgPksP_pyb9W7GMVFx0iCTZKNmHdrkRT0isIJuKv5zHqXr1495Ly4_1NEjOTiRfY_9qZfLpWVg=w2400 Would have put it back together but, I think it warrants at least replacing the seals: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZHBiM92AmvGIjIpQoCPFxluHRiBbZz9sBx8OGWLSJQOXwWBxsH6a7LYjo8PNIOoNw4jmU78NOjXsV8vlRRonXaiEE04bgeof1XGUjk2GT0ni9-QJvuBI6bvao6KfNxDcCttzoyAnzg=w2400 Looks like you are getting it apart. And I'd sure replace the seals. I don't see that I pointed you to the section from the factory shop manual on this. You may have already found it, but just in case: Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then the Front Axles tab and then the Instructions tab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Looks like you are getting it apart. And I'd sure replace the seals. I don't see that I pointed you to the section from the factory shop manual on this. You may have already found it, but just in case: Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then the Front Axles tab and then the Instructions tab. Thanks Gary, and the rest of you that have helped this job along with words of encouragement. I've replaced the seals, but not before I cleaned and repacked the bearings. Following the torquing (50Lbs) and backing off (1/4 Turn) of the hub nut, it was amazing how smooth these still are. I'm excited to get this project done and take it our for a slow roll However, I found a cracked lock washer during my reassembly, and I'll be picking that up today. While I am "waiting" with my COVID-mask around my ears typing, my mind has wandered... What a nice upgrade it would be to change to some corrosion resistant screws for the Locking hub caps, but I want to do this right. The easy answer is "Go Stainless", however 304 and 316 are typically not that great with any significant load, and many or the 400-series will show iron-like stains. Has anyone else thought about this, or has experience in this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Thanks Gary, and the rest of you that have helped this job along with words of encouragement. I've replaced the seals, but not before I cleaned and repacked the bearings. Following the torquing (50Lbs) and backing off (1/4 Turn) of the hub nut, it was amazing how smooth these still are. I'm excited to get this project done and take it our for a slow roll However, I found a cracked lock washer during my reassembly, and I'll be picking that up today. While I am "waiting" with my COVID-mask around my ears typing, my mind has wandered... What a nice upgrade it would be to change to some corrosion resistant screws for the Locking hub caps, but I want to do this right. The easy answer is "Go Stainless", however 304 and 316 are typically not that great with any significant load, and many or the 400-series will show iron-like stains. Has anyone else thought about this, or has experience in this? I just use the ones that came with my Warm premiums, and add PST. This adds no additional breakaway torque, but ensures a hermetic seal. If no air or water can get in the threads corrosion can't start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Thanks Gary, and the rest of you that have helped this job along with words of encouragement. I've replaced the seals, but not before I cleaned and repacked the bearings. Following the torquing (50Lbs) and backing off (1/4 Turn) of the hub nut, it was amazing how smooth these still are. I'm excited to get this project done and take it our for a slow roll However, I found a cracked lock washer during my reassembly, and I'll be picking that up today. While I am "waiting" with my COVID-mask around my ears typing, my mind has wandered... What a nice upgrade it would be to change to some corrosion resistant screws for the Locking hub caps, but I want to do this right. The easy answer is "Go Stainless", however 304 and 316 are typically not that great with any significant load, and many or the 400-series will show iron-like stains. Has anyone else thought about this, or has experience in this? Alex - Jim will remember that I had fits with the screws that came on Rusty. He recommended some fancy screw-removing bits, and I finally got them out. But it was a huge pain. So either go with stainless or do as he suggested and seal those rascals up. But, from what Jim's told me, some stainless has a tendency to lock itself in place against ferrous metals, so that PST is a good idea anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Alex - Jim will remember that I had fits with the screws that came on Rusty. He recommended some fancy screw-removing bits, and I finally got them out. But it was a huge pain. So either go with stainless or do as he suggested and seal those rascals up. But, from what Jim's told me, some stainless has a tendency to lock itself in place against ferrous metals, so that PST is a good idea anyway. Thanks for the quick response guys. I did take a few more picks of the hub disassembly, but I was waiting to get the job done before I made an edit on my post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Alex - Jim will remember that I had fits with the screws that came on Rusty. He recommended some fancy screw-removing bits, and I finally got them out. But it was a huge pain. So either go with stainless or do as he suggested and seal those rascals up. But, from what Jim's told me, some stainless has a tendency to lock itself in place against ferrous metals, so that PST is a good idea anyway. I've used anti-seize on those bolts and have never had trouble removing them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 Alex - Jim will remember that I had fits with the screws that came on Rusty. He recommended some fancy screw-removing bits, and I finally got them out. But it was a huge pain. So either go with stainless or do as he suggested and seal those rascals up. But, from what Jim's told me, some stainless has a tendency to lock itself in place against ferrous metals, so that PST is a good idea anyway. Gary, I think what I've said is that stainless on stainless tends to gall, and weld itself in place, without proper lubrication. What I found (in desperation, years ago) is that the PTFE in Loctite PST gives enough lubricity allowing you to torque a stainless nut & bolt Think 1/2-13's through a 1" thick flange on 8" schedule 80 stainless... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 Gary, I think what I've said is that stainless on stainless tends to gall, and weld itself in place, without proper lubrication. What I found (in desperation, years ago) is that the PTFE in Loctite PST gives enough lubricity allowing you to torque a stainless nut & bolt Think 1/2-13's through a 1" thick flange on 8" schedule 80 stainless... Ok, my misunderstanding. And I know that I've used anti-seize on them successfully. However, the PST not only keeps them from galling, it seals the hole so water doesn't get in around the screw. So that's what I use now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 Ok, my misunderstanding. And I know that I've used anti-seize on them successfully. However, the PST not only keeps them from galling, it seals the hole so water doesn't get in around the screw. So that's what I use now. After this job was finally complete, and a clean up with some wax, that I know it hasn't seen in near 15 years, it's like a New Truck-Thanks Bullnose Forum https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pHPetfpQOLXQjePWhpLIhZmmv4aqFVYJlcnrD-BaerQHOVUC5m0XjhI58-wdBtHmEWOTrBQ94gXfxyMrmX8W1TjoW1e6YvUqcFaeXZPo2Taq9k_20aBzeV-5NM64ttIqndwzu0nJ5w=w2400 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8hUwcPqNyF4s8aO_CFN32qbDwwWQQwXMsmtWw5M_2zDPIPGRsS96qPW5ujSLjAq9qslbWMy_a6HBKOBfII5g2LkzRuNGEJlSzDvwHLpDkGUzAaXM4ZlA6A-l4p_8_zFGT6VC5ysYXQ=w2400 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 After this job was finally complete, and a clean up with some wax, that I know it hasn't seen in near 15 years, it's like a New Truck-Thanks Bullnose Forum https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pHPetfpQOLXQjePWhpLIhZmmv4aqFVYJlcnrD-BaerQHOVUC5m0XjhI58-wdBtHmEWOTrBQ94gXfxyMrmX8W1TjoW1e6YvUqcFaeXZPo2Taq9k_20aBzeV-5NM64ttIqndwzu0nJ5w=w2400 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8hUwcPqNyF4s8aO_CFN32qbDwwWQQwXMsmtWw5M_2zDPIPGRsS96qPW5ujSLjAq9qslbWMy_a6HBKOBfII5g2LkzRuNGEJlSzDvwHLpDkGUzAaXM4ZlA6A-l4p_8_zFGT6VC5ysYXQ=w2400 Looks great, Alex! Well done! I particularly like your wheels. They are some of my favorites, and not often seen with 8 lugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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