ArdWrknTrk Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 I believe the transmission was swapped two owners again. Not exactly sure which manual transmission it was prior though. So is the ball actually for the cruise control? A photo of the door jamb sticker would help us tell you what transmission was in the truck from the factory. Rick's link will help you get the shifting right. The one thing you don't want to do is have the AOD in two gears at once. Better to have hard shifts than overlapping shifts. Adjustment is very sensitive, be careful. Yes, the bead chain is connected to the speed control module. Cool, you get to learn so much about Loretta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 The AOD debuted in 1980 when the Bullnose was first introduced, but it was actually designed in the early-mid 1960s. It was the very first automatic overdrive transmission offered. The early trucks (and cars) with a carburetor and AOD used a TV ROD. It looks very similar to a C4/C6 kickdown rod, but it is very different. The carburetor is different as well. Carburetors with an AOD had a special linkage for the TV rod to connect to. No aftermarket carburetor has the correct linkage for the stock Ford AOD TV rod to connect to. The Ford "kickdown linkage" is not the same and absolutely will not work! If you switch to an aftermarket carburetor, you can count on also replacing the TV rod with an aftermarket TV cable. Stock Ford TV cables showed up when EFI was introduced. This is how you adjust the stock Ford AOD TV rod: https://images.carid.com/bm/transmission-and-drivetrain/pdf/40263-installation-instructions.pdf (see page 9 and 10) Ahh, OK...I was thinking of the 302EFI that I had briefly...it had an AOD with the cable. Thanks for clearing that up Rick. Clearly I know nothing about the auto transmissions in these trucks. I'll stay out of that part of the discussion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crixmix Posted April 10, 2020 Author Share Posted April 10, 2020 A photo of the door jamb sticker would help us tell you what transmission was in the truck from the factory. Rick's link will help you get the shifting right. The one thing you don't want to do is have the AOD in two gears at once. Better to have hard shifts than overlapping shifts. Adjustment is very sensitive, be careful. Yes, the bead chain is connected to the speed control module. Cool, you get to learn so much about Loretta So upon research looks like it was the AOD engine the whole time. Anyone know the lengths of battery cable needed? Looking at LMC and the have a bunch of different lengths and I’m not exactly sure which ones to get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 So upon research looks like it was the AOD engine the whole time. Anyone know the lengths of battery cable needed? Looking at LMC and the have a bunch of different lengths and I’m not exactly sure which ones to get. All the cables??? Battery + to starter relay Relay to starter Battery - to block Block to frame If Youre going LMC, do you mean factory type cables, like a ground with the tab that bolts to the crossmember? Do you want the LMC part numbers????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 All the cables??? Battery + to starter relay Relay to starter Battery - to block Block to frame If Youre going LMC, do you mean factory type cables, like a ground with the tab that bolts to the crossmember? Do you want the LMC part numbers????? Our page has the Ford part numbers, the Motorcraft part numbers, and the lengths for each of the applications: Documentation/Electrical/Battery Cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crixmix Posted April 10, 2020 Author Share Posted April 10, 2020 Our page has the Ford part numbers, the Motorcraft part numbers, and the lengths for each of the applications: Documentation/Electrical/Battery Cables. I’m just trying to replace the ones in the picture here. Also not sure what’s going on or why the previous owner did this but the wires seem reversed and attached to wrong terminals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 I’m just trying to replace the ones in the picture here. Also not sure what’s going on or why the previous owner did this but the wires seem reversed and attached to wrong terminals That's strange. He bought a black positive cable and a red ground cable. But, it is hooked up correctly. It is just the the insulation on the wires is the wrong color. Those electrons gotta be confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crixmix Posted April 10, 2020 Author Share Posted April 10, 2020 That's strange. He bought a black positive cable and a red ground cable. But, it is hooked up correctly. It is just the the insulation on the wires is the wrong color. Those electrons gotta be confused. Yeah it through me for a loop when I first saw it. Also I am about to replace my valve gaskets because one of the valves is visibly warped. Does anyone have recommendations on new valve covers should I get presses steel or aluminum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 Yeah it through me for a loop when I first saw it. Also I am about to replace my valve gaskets because one of the valves is visibly warped. Does anyone have recommendations on new valve covers should I get presses steel or aluminum? Cast aluminum is stiffer, and won't distort around the bolts like tin ones will. Though if you have time, a hammer and a solid-square edge, you can tap them back into shape. Better gaskets -with support where the bolts go- won't let that happen again. While I'd usually glue the gaskets to the covers with High Tack or Indian Head, when I bought my ribbed aluminum covers I swapped over to silicone rubber gaskets, and they seem to keep weeping to a minimum while not needing much torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crixmix Posted April 11, 2020 Author Share Posted April 11, 2020 Cast aluminum is stiffer, and won't distort around the bolts like tin ones will. Though if you have time, a hammer and a solid-square edge, you can tap them back into shape. Better gaskets -with support where the bolts go- won't let that happen again. While I'd usually glue the gaskets to the covers with High Tack or Indian Head, when I bought my ribbed aluminum covers I swapped over to silicone rubber gaskets, and they seem to keep weeping to a minimum while not needing much torque. Yeah I was looking at a bunch of different options. I ordered the Felpro silicon gaskets. And I’m a bit OCD so this truck is gonna keep me busy so I figured rather than hammering to valve covers and sanding and getting them looking fresh (sanding and painting) might as well just get new covers haha. When replacing the covers I see there are blow offs or holes and what not what should I order along with the covers to make sure everything looks fresh and new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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