Fuel Injection upgrade

[Gary Lewis]

That looks like very good progress. And I see why you want the terminals so you don't have to splice. Plus, I agree how much of a pain the old connectors are to get off and can see why Ford changed.

Yep, it's real shame the new production regulators don't use this connector and just give the pigtail to make the swap. I know years ago when you bought a improved part from Ford they would give you the connector pigtail to splice in.

One thing I forgot however, was the photo below that is showing how much adjustment I have now with the 7375 belt and why I might still go smaller to a 7370 belt.

With the 6 second LRC regulator I shouldn't need to tension the belt that tight so I might be ok with the 7375 belt with the amount of adjustment I have.

Another thing, I am thinking about making a ground strap for the alternator. Not far from the alternator itself is the point where the negative battery cable mounts to the block. It wouldn't be hard to make a 10ga wire and place it atop the negative battery cable at the block to ensure the alternator case is grounded.

Yes, it would have been nice to have the pigtail to have the option.

As for the ground, it cannot hurt.

[Rusty_S85]

That looks like very good progress. And I see why you want the terminals so you don't have to splice. Plus, I agree how much of a pain the old connectors are to get off and can see why Ford changed.

Yep, it's real shame the new production regulators don't use this connector and just give the pigtail to make the swap. I know years ago when you bought a improved part from Ford they would give you the connector pigtail to splice in.

One thing I forgot however, was the photo below that is showing how much adjustment I have now with the 7375 belt and why I might still go smaller to a 7370 belt.

With the 6 second LRC regulator I shouldn't need to tension the belt that tight so I might be ok with the 7375 belt with the amount of adjustment I have.

Another thing, I am thinking about making a ground strap for the alternator. Not far from the alternator itself is the point where the negative battery cable mounts to the block. It wouldn't be hard to make a 10ga wire and place it atop the negative battery cable at the block to ensure the alternator case is grounded.

Not much to update, been waiting for a big sale through Summit or Jegs to order some more big dollar items, sale finally came from Jegs but it excluded some 90% of the brands that they carry so I went to summit and bought the Cold-Case radiator that is currently out for delivery today. Saturday I got a couple cans of Eastwood Radiator Black in Satin finish to coat the radiator in.

Besides that I am on the hunt for a new tuner, I was going to use Mad Scientist Motorsport as the guy is highly recommended by Holley but there was a incident today between me and him on social media where he completely over reacted in an uncalled for way. He made a post proclaiming ECMs cant fail and that clearing trouble codes doesnt fix the problem as you have to fix the physical problem. I told him kindly to be careful of making blanket statements like that as ECMs can fail and that clearing trouble codes can fix the problem as there are phantom trouble codes that has no physical issue but the code is still there. His initial response was to out right say "when I want your opinion ill ask for it", then it devolved from there to the point where he accused me of not working in the field propping himself up on his three ASE certifications and eventually making racist remarks towards me by throwing in cutting grass with a few other potential jobs that he thinks I may have ignoring the fact that I was working on cars before he joined the military which he joined in '08/'09 and I was working on cars while I was taking tech classes back in 06/07. I honestly cant over look something like this and told him he lost a customer and his response was that if I knew how to do this I would be doing it vs paying someone like him to do it for me and to record my engine when it pops cause it will since apparently he can prevent an engine from grenade. My final response to him was that I value my time more than he values his time and it is cheaper to outsource the work to him vs spending my time doing the tuning and that the only pop there is going to be when his big ego bursts and I will be there to laugh when he loses everything. There were a million and one ways he could have responded to my inital comment and kept everything civil but he went off the deep end. Sad thing is I was giving him the business cause A) hes a veteran, B) hes local, and C) he came highly recommended by holley. The negatives of him is A) he takes multiple weeks off at a time not working without warning due to "V/A appointments" and that hes just not feeling up to it which is not how you run a business and be successful. B) he is childish and over reacts due to illusions of grandeur. C) hes obviously racist if hes going to see a hispanic last name and throw in cutting grass as a profession of mine after I told him three times that I work on cars for a living unlike him who just tunes cars other people built.

So this is a heads up for anyone doing a Sniper install, be fore warned I am no longer able to recommend Mad Scientist Motorsports and I am now looking for a new tuner and will list who I end up going with.

[85lebaront2]

Not much to update, been waiting for a big sale through Summit or Jegs to order some more big dollar items, sale finally came from Jegs but it excluded some 90% of the brands that they carry so I went to summit and bought the Cold-Case radiator that is currently out for delivery today. Saturday I got a couple cans of Eastwood Radiator Black in Satin finish to coat the radiator in.

Besides that I am on the hunt for a new tuner, I was going to use Mad Scientist Motorsport as the guy is highly recommended by Holley but there was a incident today between me and him on social media where he completely over reacted in an uncalled for way. He made a post proclaiming ECMs cant fail and that clearing trouble codes doesnt fix the problem as you have to fix the physical problem. I told him kindly to be careful of making blanket statements like that as ECMs can fail and that clearing trouble codes can fix the problem as there are phantom trouble codes that has no physical issue but the code is still there. His initial response was to out right say "when I want your opinion ill ask for it", then it devolved from there to the point where he accused me of not working in the field propping himself up on his three ASE certifications and eventually making racist remarks towards me by throwing in cutting grass with a few other potential jobs that he thinks I may have ignoring the fact that I was working on cars before he joined the military which he joined in '08/'09 and I was working on cars while I was taking tech classes back in 06/07. I honestly cant over look something like this and told him he lost a customer and his response was that if I knew how to do this I would be doing it vs paying someone like him to do it for me and to record my engine when it pops cause it will since apparently he can prevent an engine from grenade. My final response to him was that I value my time more than he values his time and it is cheaper to outsource the work to him vs spending my time doing the tuning and that the only pop there is going to be when his big ego bursts and I will be there to laugh when he loses everything. There were a million and one ways he could have responded to my inital comment and kept everything civil but he went off the deep end. Sad thing is I was giving him the business cause A) hes a veteran, B) hes local, and C) he came highly recommended by holley. The negatives of him is A) he takes multiple weeks off at a time not working without warning due to "V/A appointments" and that hes just not feeling up to it which is not how you run a business and be successful. B) he is childish and over reacts due to illusions of grandeur. C) hes obviously racist if hes going to see a hispanic last name and throw in cutting grass as a profession of mine after I told him three times that I work on cars for a living unlike him who just tunes cars other people built.

So this is a heads up for anyone doing a Sniper install, be fore warned I am no longer able to recommend Mad Scientist Motorsports and I am now looking for a new tuner and will list who I end up going with.

You could tell him that a doctor of motors (me) endorsed your work. The doctor of motors was a multiple guess test by Dana Corporation back in the 70s and 80s. My card finally either disintegrated or got lost in a wallet being replaced.

Mad Scientist sounds like me, I actually did work in a laboratory for 30 years. Every time any sort of mechanical issue, like a set of totally destroyed bearings in a big standby Diesel generator set on an under construction Nimitz class carrier were sent to our metallurgist, I was called in to give my assessment. My call was contamination in the oil (looked like blasting grit had gotten into or left in the oil reservoir). The engines are essentially a dry sump with a large reservoir that the lube pump draws from and scavenged oil is returned to.

I have been accused of being a mad scientist and also unorthodox in what I do. Thanks for letting us know, because I may eventually go to a stand-alone unit on my Lebaron convertible when I stick the DOHC converted 2.5L engine in.

[Gary Lewis]

Not much to update, been waiting for a big sale through Summit or Jegs to order some more big dollar items, sale finally came from Jegs but it excluded some 90% of the brands that they carry so I went to summit and bought the Cold-Case radiator that is currently out for delivery today. Saturday I got a couple cans of Eastwood Radiator Black in Satin finish to coat the radiator in.

Besides that I am on the hunt for a new tuner, I was going to use Mad Scientist Motorsport as the guy is highly recommended by Holley but there was a incident today between me and him on social media where he completely over reacted in an uncalled for way. He made a post proclaiming ECMs cant fail and that clearing trouble codes doesnt fix the problem as you have to fix the physical problem. I told him kindly to be careful of making blanket statements like that as ECMs can fail and that clearing trouble codes can fix the problem as there are phantom trouble codes that has no physical issue but the code is still there. His initial response was to out right say "when I want your opinion ill ask for it", then it devolved from there to the point where he accused me of not working in the field propping himself up on his three ASE certifications and eventually making racist remarks towards me by throwing in cutting grass with a few other potential jobs that he thinks I may have ignoring the fact that I was working on cars before he joined the military which he joined in '08/'09 and I was working on cars while I was taking tech classes back in 06/07. I honestly cant over look something like this and told him he lost a customer and his response was that if I knew how to do this I would be doing it vs paying someone like him to do it for me and to record my engine when it pops cause it will since apparently he can prevent an engine from grenade. My final response to him was that I value my time more than he values his time and it is cheaper to outsource the work to him vs spending my time doing the tuning and that the only pop there is going to be when his big ego bursts and I will be there to laugh when he loses everything. There were a million and one ways he could have responded to my inital comment and kept everything civil but he went off the deep end. Sad thing is I was giving him the business cause A) hes a veteran, B) hes local, and C) he came highly recommended by holley. The negatives of him is A) he takes multiple weeks off at a time not working without warning due to "V/A appointments" and that hes just not feeling up to it which is not how you run a business and be successful. B) he is childish and over reacts due to illusions of grandeur. C) hes obviously racist if hes going to see a hispanic last name and throw in cutting grass as a profession of mine after I told him three times that I work on cars for a living unlike him who just tunes cars other people built.

So this is a heads up for anyone doing a Sniper install, be fore warned I am no longer able to recommend Mad Scientist Motorsports and I am now looking for a new tuner and will list who I end up going with.

Sorry to see that you need to find a new tuner. But it does seem like he's someone to steer clear of.

[Rusty_S85]

Sorry to see that you need to find a new tuner. But it does seem like he's someone to steer clear of.

It is, I got the line however on a few tuners that I can try, haven't heard back from them since I messaged them few months back so I might have to call them when I am closer to dropping the engine in. Im just waiting for getting the Flowmaster Y-pipe and then it's just the 3/8" stainless hardline for the frame from Inline Tube, the fuel tank, making a baffle in the fuel tank, the 85/86 sending unit and a walbro 255 lph fuel pump. Then I have everything I need to do my install.

In other news however, I stumbled across some old Ford Motorsport/Racing/Performance emblems, and I am unable to date them. Below are the photos of them that I am looking at possibly buying to put on my radio bezel where the XL/XLT/XLS emblem would have gone if I had one. The first one to me looks like it might be from the 1980s/1990s with the coloring, but I have not been able to find anything online that provides dating.

The last two I know are current production emblem, the third from last I think is an emblem for late model mustangs to replace the OE dash plate, but I am not sure.

[Gary Lewis]

It is, I got the line however on a few tuners that I can try, haven't heard back from them since I messaged them few months back so I might have to call them when I am closer to dropping the engine in. Im just waiting for getting the Flowmaster Y-pipe and then it's just the 3/8" stainless hardline for the frame from Inline Tube, the fuel tank, making a baffle in the fuel tank, the 85/86 sending unit and a walbro 255 lph fuel pump. Then I have everything I need to do my install.

In other news however, I stumbled across some old Ford Motorsport/Racing/Performance emblems, and I am unable to date them. Below are the photos of them that I am looking at possibly buying to put on my radio bezel where the XL/XLT/XLS emblem would have gone if I had one. The first one to me looks like it might be from the 1980s/1990s with the coloring, but I have not been able to find anything online that provides dating.

The last two I know are current production emblem, the third from last I think is an emblem for late model mustangs to replace the OE dash plate, but I am not sure.

Glad things are coming together. Hope you nail down one of the tuners.

But I have no clue on dates for those emblems. Hopefully someone will know.

[Rusty_S85]

Glad things are coming together. Hope you nail down one of the tuners.

But I have no clue on dates for those emblems. Hopefully someone will know.

The one guy I am trying to get in touch with was the first guy I delt with, his website makes it sound like he suspended remote tuning but his remote tuning is a laptop that you give him access to via internet and he will make changes to your sniper while you are driving as he will be able to see what is going on from the sniper program.

I hope so on the emblems, I emailed the guy selling them if he happens to know at least for the first one if its a 1980s/1990s styled emblem it seems to be so to me based off the color scheme. I think that would be the one I would go with as I think it would look better on the radio bezel where the XL/XLT/XLS emblem would normally go.

Only other option would be to try and find a XLS emblem to put on the dash and have the truck painted in two tone like it left the factory then add the XLS to make my own but I really dont want to do that. My big thing is with the Ford Racing valve covers I really think it would complete the package to have the dash say "Ford Racing" in some fashion.

Another option was to have a rectangular emblem that says Ford Racing or Powered by Ford Racing that would fit under the 150 in the F150 emblem like the OE XL/XLT emblems did. But that would require the emblem to also look period as well.

[Gary Lewis]

Glad things are coming together. Hope you nail down one of the tuners.

But I have no clue on dates for those emblems. Hopefully someone will know.

The one guy I am trying to get in touch with was the first guy I delt with, his website makes it sound like he suspended remote tuning but his remote tuning is a laptop that you give him access to via internet and he will make changes to your sniper while you are driving as he will be able to see what is going on from the sniper program.

I hope so on the emblems, I emailed the guy selling them if he happens to know at least for the first one if its a 1980s/1990s styled emblem it seems to be so to me based off the color scheme. I think that would be the one I would go with as I think it would look better on the radio bezel where the XL/XLT/XLS emblem would normally go.

Only other option would be to try and find a XLS emblem to put on the dash and have the truck painted in two tone like it left the factory then add the XLS to make my own but I really dont want to do that. My big thing is with the Ford Racing valve covers I really think it would complete the package to have the dash say "Ford Racing" in some fashion.

Another option was to have a rectangular emblem that says Ford Racing or Powered by Ford Racing that would fit under the 150 in the F150 emblem like the OE XL/XLT emblems did. But that would require the emblem to also look period as well.

That sounds like a good way to have the system tuned. I had Core Tuning do that when I had a problem with Big Blue and they fixed it easily. And while you can log data while running you can't make changes then on an EEC-V. So his approach should work well.

On the emblems, I think the idea of placing one in the radio bezel that matches the valve covers is the best approach.

[Rusty_S85]

That sounds like a good way to have the system tuned. I had Core Tuning do that when I had a problem with Big Blue and they fixed it easily. And while you can log data while running you can't make changes then on an EEC-V. So his approach should work well.

On the emblems, I think the idea of placing one in the radio bezel that matches the valve covers is the best approach.

It is, I really don't think I need a dyno tune done, I would like to get a dyno done after I get the transmission replaced and swap out the third member to offset the taller than stock tires, just so I know what my combo is making, my goal has always been 300hp but blueprint has a almost identical spec build to what I have with lower flowing heads but a slightly larger roller cam and they claim its 385hp. All I really need is a tune to get the system more efficient than the setting that holley defaults to which is on the rich side to prevent wiping out engines. From this Toyota Motor Sales literature, I have that breaks down A/F ratio it gave me some goals to seek for my tune, like I am looking at around 12.5:1 A/F ratio at wide open throttle full load as that is the best power/torque range and 16.2:1 is the best economy with what we all already know of 14.7:1 being stoich. I know I can set up a target of 12.5:1 for wide open throttle full load but for economy though I would want someone to set that as I wouldn't want to run my engine lean. I could play it safe and just go 15.0:1 which would be just leaner than stoich but then I might leave some fuel efficiency on the table. For me tuning would be the best for getting this done, I will however post the chart below that may help others out.

I agree, I picked up three of the following emblems that way I can place one right now on my modified OE bezel that I cut the openings for the clock into, and I will have two spares in the off chance they ever offer reproductions of these bezels. The seller told me he doesnt know when they were made he just got them from a local swap meet. Since I havent seen them before I decided to grab up a few of them just in case they become hard to find down the road.

I also picked up just one of theses, to see if the slimmer look is more flattering for the dash, I can also place it up against the fenders under the 150 to see how that looks as well since its slimmer I think it will not hang below the bottom of the F and might complete the interior/exterior look.

Odds are I probably wont have one on the exterior but doesnt hurt to at least entertain the idea.

[Rusty_S85]

That sounds like a good way to have the system tuned. I had Core Tuning do that when I had a problem with Big Blue and they fixed it easily. And while you can log data while running you can't make changes then on an EEC-V. So his approach should work well.

On the emblems, I think the idea of placing one in the radio bezel that matches the valve covers is the best approach.

It is, I really don't think I need a dyno tune done, I would like to get a dyno done after I get the transmission replaced and swap out the third member to offset the taller than stock tires, just so I know what my combo is making, my goal has always been 300hp but blueprint has a almost identical spec build to what I have with lower flowing heads but a slightly larger roller cam and they claim its 385hp. All I really need is a tune to get the system more efficient than the setting that holley defaults to which is on the rich side to prevent wiping out engines. From this Toyota Motor Sales literature, I have that breaks down A/F ratio it gave me some goals to seek for my tune, like I am looking at around 12.5:1 A/F ratio at wide open throttle full load as that is the best power/torque range and 16.2:1 is the best economy with what we all already know of 14.7:1 being stoich. I know I can set up a target of 12.5:1 for wide open throttle full load but for economy though I would want someone to set that as I wouldn't want to run my engine lean. I could play it safe and just go 15.0:1 which would be just leaner than stoich but then I might leave some fuel efficiency on the table. For me tuning would be the best for getting this done, I will however post the chart below that may help others out.

I agree, I picked up three of the following emblems that way I can place one right now on my modified OE bezel that I cut the openings for the clock into, and I will have two spares in the off chance they ever offer reproductions of these bezels. The seller told me he doesnt know when they were made he just got them from a local swap meet. Since I havent seen them before I decided to grab up a few of them just in case they become hard to find down the road.

I also picked up just one of theses, to see if the slimmer look is more flattering for the dash, I can also place it up against the fenders under the 150 to see how that looks as well since its slimmer I think it will not hang below the bottom of the F and might complete the interior/exterior look.

Odds are I probably wont have one on the exterior but doesnt hurt to at least entertain the idea.

Below are a couple images of the two emblems I purchased seated atop my original dash bezel that was removed. I think I will go with the first one, it looks more 1980s/1990s in appearance so it will go better with the truck, and it fits the area better than the second one which is just way too thin.

Interior_Dash_Emblem_-_1.jfif

Interior_Dash_Emblem_-_3.jfif

Next has to do with the hood, I remember QuietRide Solutions was offering these hood insulation kits that came with the option of having a Ford oval embossed in the ABS plastic cover as pictured below.

They no longer have this option, and it appears that they don't have the ok with Ford anymore, they only are making Chrysler and gm ones. I did see that you can send them a design or text and they can custom emboss it into the ABS plastic cover which I don't know how good it would look with the name of my truck embossed on it, especially considering I was playing around with the idea of finding a NOS blue bug shield for the hood and then have the name pinstriped on it how it was done in the 1980s/1990s.

Either way I stumbled across the KC Cyclone V2 underhood light kit and thought about doing this. Since I will be getting a new steel hood for my truck as mine is rotted out on the under side for some reason, I plan on using the hood insulation kit with the ABS plastic cover, my plan is if I can find one with the Ford Oval logo or if I have my own design put in the middle, slightly below and off to each side I want to mount a pair of flush mounted KC Cyclone V2 lights. Below is the photo of the Cyclone V2 lights that are 2.20" diameter x 0.53" depth and they come with a clear, diffused, amber, red, and blue lenses to change the color.

The flush mount that KC offers is photoed below, there is no mention of the install depth but seeing as the 0.53" depth Cyclone light mounts flush with the flush mount which then sits atop your mounting surface I believe 0.50" install depth is a good estimation. I believe this would mount nicely into the black ABS plastic to be used as hood lights.

and a photo of the Cyclone flush mount installed.

KC does sell a underhood kit that comes with two Cyclone V2 lights, wiring, and a toggle switch for $91.99. I can buy the Cyclone V2 lights individually for $31.99 each or $63.98 for a pair. I also dont want a toggle switch that I have to manually switch on after opening the hood. I found from Street Works that they sell a automotive tilt switch good for 2A, which the Cyclone V2 lights only draw 5w each, 10w per pair which at 12.7v is 0.78A. My plan is to mount this tilt switch to the hood itself behind the plastic cover and only having a main power wire coming out to my auxiliary fuse box.

In theory this would allow the two KC Cyclone V2 flood lights to automatically light up when the hood is tilted open providing illumination on each side of the engine bay where light is needed for working. Also drawing under 1A of power means I won't run my battery down if I have to do work for a few hours with the hood up on the side of the road. Likewise, the lens covers are easily snapped off and replaced, I could in theory snap on some blue lens covers if I end up as a show and I have the hood open at nighttime.