Fuel Injection upgrade

[Gary Lewis]

Big update here, lots was done yesterday and today.

Starting off with yesterday.

I swapped the V-belt pulley from my spare 1G alternator to my 3G alternator. First thing I found out is I used my caliper to measure the OD of the V belt pulley and I got 2.6195" or 2 5/8" not the 2.50" or 2 1/2" as I eyeballed with a ruler. This isnt a huge change but it is a big enough change to create difference in the alternator shaft speed. Second thing I found out is the pulley I have didnt need a washer under it to space it up off the case. Once fully tightened into place you could see visible light between the pulley and the case all the way to the shank that is pressed up against the inner bearing race. Third thing I found out is the 5/8" hole machine bushing would not fit the shank of the alternator it was too small and when I measured out the two pulley`s came out to 0.6715" ID while the ID of the 5/8" washer I had was slightly more than 5/8" at 0.6195" ID creating a 0.052" undersize. I tried to drill the machine washer out with a unibit but the material was too hard to drill. If you are looking for a washer you would be better off finding a 41/64", 21/32", 43/64", or 11/16" ID machine bushing over a 5/8" as it will not fit past the step in the shaft.

My calculations for shaft speed is as follows with my new measurement of the alternator pulley.

Engine rpm - Alternator rpm

525 - 1600

550 - 1676

575 - 1752

600 - 1829

625 - 1905

650 - 1981

675 - 2057

700 - 2133

1000 - 3048

1500 - 4571

2500 - 7619

3000 - 9143

5500 - 16762

6000 - 18286

With 15,000 - 16,000 as a safe alternator speed and many sources citing that most alternators can handle 18,000 shaft rpm I think I will be ok with this pulley. Going larger will shift my pulley ratio from 3.05:1 down to 2.71:1 which is below the recommended 3:1+ for street vehicles.

Next off my Remy reman 3G alternator came with a test report for it and it listed the following specs.

Max Alternator Output : 159A

Maximum output Power : 2039W

Voltage Set Point : 14.6v

Leakage Current : 0.43mA

Alternator Turn-on Speed : 1600rpm

Output Current @ 2000 rpm : 102A

Output Current @ 2400 rpm : 117A

Output Current @ 3500 rpm : 139A

Output Current @ 5000 rpm : 154A

Output Current @ 6000 rpm : 159A

The chart at the bottom of the test report has the following that I estimated from the performance curve.

1000 rpm : 5A

1200 rpm : 25A

1400 rpm : 45A

1600 rpm : 65A

1800 rpm : 90A

2000 rpm : 102A

So I can idle my engine down to 525 rpm and maintain 1600 rpm shaft speed putting out 65A at idle. My idle speed with AC on was to be 675 as OE spec if my aftermarket roller cam will allow these speeds. This will result in producing around 102A at idle with AC on.

Now for today, I got the mustang dipstick mounted and it fits great, I don't know how hard it will be to pull the dipstick once in the truck with the York compressor directly in front of the dipstick, but it might be doable. The stick that came with the tube reads right on the bottom with 5 quarts in the pan and should be in the hash marks at 6 quarts, especially once the engine is in the truck with the slight rake to the rear. I tried the OE truck dipstick, and it was reading in the middle of the hashmarks with 5 quarts in the engine and 6 quarts would put it well over the hashmarks.

Second, I got the alternator bracket flattened out and it fits great, currently it is hanging up to dry for 24 hours before I install it on the block for photos tomorrow evening. I didn't put the voltage regulator I have NOS on as the connector is different than the one that you can find for conversion kits. I did find a connector that looks like it may be right listed as a 1993 - 1995 Crown Victoria w/police package or a 1995 - 2000 Contour. This connector has the wire you press to release the connector similar to what is used on fuel injector connectors. Problem is I can't get a premade one with the stator terminal I can only get the pig tail that will require me to make connections which I really don't want to do seeing as they make premade conversion terminals for this. So, I am currently looking for the OE part number to try and source a NOS Motorcraft 3G 130A regulator with the LRC, one I have is a 6 second LRC and the only one I have been able to find so far is a F795 number which I think is the motorcraft GR814 number but it's a 2.5 second LRC. I might have to go with that seeing as the regulator I have has a connector that is hard to even find in the first place.

Third the belt for the alternator I can use the belt I have which is a Napa XL number 25-09653 which apparently is a old number and isn't out there anymore. This leaves me almost no adjustment once I tension the belt. I need to search online for a NOS 25-09653 belt with the box included as it states the dimensions of the belt, I think it may be over 39". Looking on Rock Auto for a '82 F150 with a 302 the following is the belts I found in my preferred Gates brand.

Gates 7390 : w/o Air Pump ; w/o 70/100A alternator - 39" effective length / 0.41" top width

Gates 7380 : w/ Air Pump ; w/o 70/100A alternator - 37.98" effective length / 0.41" top width

Gates 7405 : w/o Air Pump ; w/ 70/100A alternator - 40.5" effective length / 0.41" top width

Gates 7375 : w/ Air Pump ; w/ 70/100A alternator - 37.5" effective length / 0.41" top width

My truck should have a 7380 belt which puts it at 38" length and if my truck had a 70/100A alternator it would be a 37 1/2" belt. I think I am going to try the 37 1/2" length belt as I don't have the air pump, I have a 2 5/8" diameter pulley which I don't think is the same diameter as the OE pulley and being a 0.41" top width belt, I don't know how far it will sit in the groove. I do not believe 1/2" in belt length will make it impossible to fit to the alternator as the correct 38" belt I know falls on easily when fully adjusted inward. Upside to this is if this belt size will work, I should be able to tell anyone at the parts store I need a belt for a '82 F150 with a 302 with a 100A alternator and a Air Pump and get the right belt regardless of brand if I am in a pinch. I wouldn't have to remember the part number of 7375 to give every time I need to replace the belt.

Now onto the photos.

First few photos is of the Mustang dipstick and dipstick tube installed. I may revisit this at a later date if its too problematic to check the oil level once in the truck. I also have decided to leave the bare zinc coated steel tube its natural zinc color, long as it doesn't start to rust I will leave it be. If it does, I will tap the dipstick tube out of the block scuff it up and paint it Dark Corporate Engine Blue to match the rest of the engine.

Next few photos is of the 3.8L V6 3G 130A alternator mocked up with the old belt off my truck to check for alignment with the crank pulley as well as to see if the OE belt would work or not. This is also before I stripped the old flaking paint off the adjuster bracket and went over it with a file to remove most marks and painted it Eastwood Under Hood Black to match the rest of the brackets.

This one is showing the alignment of the belt and the decent airgap between the single sheave pulley and the 3G case without a shim.

This one is showing how little adjustment I have to tension the belt using the old Napa belt that I need to find the dimensions of as I suspect the belt is not the right size as listed for my original application.

So I am effectively looking for a LRC voltage regulator with the same connector as the one I have uses a oddball connector that I cant seem to find. I am also looking up the specs of the Napa belt I have to compare it to the Gates numbers I am looking at above and lastly I am going to hit up Allen Fastener`s to see if he has any 3/8" flange head bolts with serrated edges like the OE tensioner bolt so I can get one that will thread in further into the aluminum housing on the alternator. More thread engagement would be better as it will help reduce the risk of stripping out when cranking down on the bolt to lock it in place.

You have made really good progress!

I think you did well on that alternator. I keep hearing a noise that I think may be the bearings in mine, and might have to go the way you did for a replacement. At idle you are kicking out plenty of current.

But I ran into the same problem as you on the LRC regulator. Finally settled for the 2.5 second one to get the right connector.

The dip stick looks good, but I'm worried about access when the A/C compressor is on. We shall see.

[Rusty_S85]

You have made really good progress!

I think you did well on that alternator. I keep hearing a noise that I think may be the bearings in mine, and might have to go the way you did for a replacement. At idle you are kicking out plenty of current.

But I ran into the same problem as you on the LRC regulator. Finally settled for the 2.5 second one to get the right connector.

The dip stick looks good, but I'm worried about access when the A/C compressor is on. We shall see.

That is something I am trying to avoid as well, I keep looking at photos and the belt is sitting too high on the pulley on the alternator which tells me one of two things, either the pulley is not the right width for the belt, or the pulley has a different angle than the belt. I don't like how high its riding but there is nothing I can do as I can't find another pulley like this online when looking. I don't know where this pulley came from as it was from a old 1G alternator that came off that 5.0 Coyote swap I did at work. I robbed lots of parts off the 302 before we sent it to the junkyard for scrap since no one wanted to buy it and I didnt have the room to save it.

I think I am going to have to just get the 2.5 second one, I keep finding them online under no name brands need to try and find the Motorcraft number so I can get a NOS Motorcraft one. I would have found it by now but I spent the last 8 hours trying to get my pc to connect to wifi that just was lost out of the blue after I made my post here.

I did find out how ever the Napa XL Belt is comparable to the 7380 belt, and I found specs listed online as the top width being 0.438" with a outside circumference of 38.625. The 7380 from Gates has a top width of 0.41" which will be narrower and an outside circumference of 38.81" which makes the 7380 Gates belt that its supposed to be comparable to not only narrower in width than the Napa XL belt but also a larger outside circumference. This means this Gates belt will ride deeper in the crank pulley vs the flush the Napa belt does. I wish I could find out what angle the Napa XL belt I have is. I know in the Ford Parts and Illustration guide it states the alternator and the water pump/power steering pump belts are supposed to be 1/2" wide which these belts are not and the 0.438" Napa belt fits perfectly like it should.

On the dipstick that is something I will have to look into. If it becomes a problem once installed, I might do like was mentioned previously and cut the bracket and add some material to the bracket to move it outward more while still mounting flush with the header flange. I also could try to make a new bracket from scratch that will snap onto the original truck dipstick tube and have it mount outside of the header tubes. For now I will live with having to bend the dipstick up or down to remove and install I have some cars that are like that from the factory but if its drastic I will come up with something to make it easier.

~Update~

After some extensive searching I found the following.

The regulator I am looking for is a F4RU-10316-AA also known as a GR814. Unfortunately I was unable to find a single Motorcraft GR814 offered for sale online. If I go with the GR814 I will have to get a off brand regulator.

On the other hand I found the connector for the F5RU-10316-AA GR819 regulator I have with the 6 second load response. Its sold as a pigtail by standard under the part number S745 which comes with a 6" lead for each terminal. The 6" lead should be enough for the S terminal to crimp it to the terminal connector for the stator but I would have to buy that terminal as well. Would be cheaper to just buy the GR814 style connector also known as the round connector but would require giving up a NOS Motorcraft regulator for some replacement one.

[Rusty_S85]

You have made really good progress!

I think you did well on that alternator. I keep hearing a noise that I think may be the bearings in mine, and might have to go the way you did for a replacement. At idle you are kicking out plenty of current.

But I ran into the same problem as you on the LRC regulator. Finally settled for the 2.5 second one to get the right connector.

The dip stick looks good, but I'm worried about access when the A/C compressor is on. We shall see.

That is something I am trying to avoid as well, I keep looking at photos and the belt is sitting too high on the pulley on the alternator which tells me one of two things, either the pulley is not the right width for the belt, or the pulley has a different angle than the belt. I don't like how high its riding but there is nothing I can do as I can't find another pulley like this online when looking. I don't know where this pulley came from as it was from a old 1G alternator that came off that 5.0 Coyote swap I did at work. I robbed lots of parts off the 302 before we sent it to the junkyard for scrap since no one wanted to buy it and I didnt have the room to save it.

I think I am going to have to just get the 2.5 second one, I keep finding them online under no name brands need to try and find the Motorcraft number so I can get a NOS Motorcraft one. I would have found it by now but I spent the last 8 hours trying to get my pc to connect to wifi that just was lost out of the blue after I made my post here.

I did find out how ever the Napa XL Belt is comparable to the 7380 belt, and I found specs listed online as the top width being 0.438" with a outside circumference of 38.625. The 7380 from Gates has a top width of 0.41" which will be narrower and an outside circumference of 38.81" which makes the 7380 Gates belt that its supposed to be comparable to not only narrower in width than the Napa XL belt but also a larger outside circumference. This means this Gates belt will ride deeper in the crank pulley vs the flush the Napa belt does. I wish I could find out what angle the Napa XL belt I have is. I know in the Ford Parts and Illustration guide it states the alternator and the water pump/power steering pump belts are supposed to be 1/2" wide which these belts are not and the 0.438" Napa belt fits perfectly like it should.

On the dipstick that is something I will have to look into. If it becomes a problem once installed, I might do like was mentioned previously and cut the bracket and add some material to the bracket to move it outward more while still mounting flush with the header flange. I also could try to make a new bracket from scratch that will snap onto the original truck dipstick tube and have it mount outside of the header tubes. For now I will live with having to bend the dipstick up or down to remove and install I have some cars that are like that from the factory but if its drastic I will come up with something to make it easier.

~Update~

After some extensive searching I found the following.

The regulator I am looking for is a F4RU-10316-AA also known as a GR814. Unfortunately I was unable to find a single Motorcraft GR814 offered for sale online. If I go with the GR814 I will have to get a off brand regulator.

On the other hand I found the connector for the F5RU-10316-AA GR819 regulator I have with the 6 second load response. Its sold as a pigtail by standard under the part number S745 which comes with a 6" lead for each terminal. The 6" lead should be enough for the S terminal to crimp it to the terminal connector for the stator but I would have to buy that terminal as well. Would be cheaper to just buy the GR814 style connector also known as the round connector but would require giving up a NOS Motorcraft regulator for some replacement one.

Since I could not find a NOS Motorcraft regulator with the GR814 number I did some searching instead for the connectors with the plan to build my own harness for the regulator I have which is a GR819 NOS Motorcraft regulator which I can pick up more NOS units for under $20 a piece which I think I will be doing as the GR814 is nonexistent online for NOS Motorcraft units which I trust more than these no name brand units I find online as GR814 replacements or the Standard brand which I dont mind using for terminals/pigtails but would never use if I can avoid it for electrical components themselves.

First order of business was to find the terminal that plugs into the GR819 regulator which I finally found last night as a Standard brand pig tail under part number S745 as shown below.

Second order of business was to find the stator terminal that goes from the regulator to the stator terminal on the alternator. I could not find one as a connector and terminal that I could just simply crimp and solder to the pigtail from the S745 connector above, so I will have to go with the Standard brand S2377 terminal which looks to be the correct terminal end for the stator, it does not come back on Rock Auto as fitting a 1993 3.8L Taurus which is the alternator I ordered is listed as fitting its listed as fitting 1994 and newer. The 1990-1993 is a two terminal stator connector which I know is not right. This connector looks just like all the other 3G stator connectors and this one even though its a Standard brand the plastic connector appears to have a Ford part number on the latch of E0BB-14489-CA.

Third order of business is to see if I can locate the terminal itself for the above pigtail so I can just simply crimp and solder the wire directly to avoid an unsightly crimp in the middle of such a short run of wire.

I found as much information I could on the Napa XL 25-09653 V-belt I have before I turned in for the night at 2am. I couldn't find any more information outside of the belt having the following specifications.

Outside Circumference : 38.625"

Top Width : 0.438"

The belt I am planning on running is the Gates 7375 V-belt which is for my '82 F150 with Air Pump and the 70/100A alternator. This belt has the following specifications to compare to the Napa belt I have that is too long.

Outside Circumference : 38.33"

Top Width : 0.41"

I think this may not be short enough seeing the outside circumference is just 0.295" smaller, but I do know the effective length of the belts are quite a bit different, the Napa 9653 belt is comparable to the Gates 7380 belt which is 37.98" effective length and the 7375 belt has an effective length of 37.5" so its a 37 1/2" belt vs a 38" belt which I know 1" difference in belt is drastic. So, I will be ordering that belt off amazon to save money on the belt in the off chance it does not fit.

I know Napa XL belts are not bad I just have always preferred Gates, but I wish I knew what the exact application this belt I have is for because the current belts that Napa offer for my truck are belts like the 25-7380 w/air pump w/o 70/100A alternator that is 37.98" effective length with a 0.41" top width or the 25-7375 w/ air pump w/ 70/100A alternator that is 37.50" effective length with a 0.41" top width no different than the Gates belt.

Either way I will be going with Gates out of personal preference and how ever it fits is how it fits, I know my crank pulley is OE the Alternator pulley is not how ever and I don't know who made it nor the specs on it as there is no part number on it to verify what V-belt it is designed for.

~Update~

Back to the drawing board for the regulator connector S745. One photo I saw showed it had grooves under each terminal to fit multiple applications but the stock photo I posted shows only the single slot in the middle which will not work as the regulator has a off set terminal. Back to looking online for 1995-2000 Ford and 1995 - 2002 Mercury regulators to find the pigtail. So far everything keeps coming back as the same connector that is used on the GR814 regulators which are plentiful connectors. I wish I knew what Ford did here cause this regulator has a F5 design date which puts it in 1995 but yet there is no easily found pigtail for this regulator everything is for the F4 design from 1994.

[Rusty_S85]

Since I could not find a NOS Motorcraft regulator with the GR814 number I did some searching instead for the connectors with the plan to build my own harness for the regulator I have which is a GR819 NOS Motorcraft regulator which I can pick up more NOS units for under $20 a piece which I think I will be doing as the GR814 is nonexistent online for NOS Motorcraft units which I trust more than these no name brand units I find online as GR814 replacements or the Standard brand which I dont mind using for terminals/pigtails but would never use if I can avoid it for electrical components themselves.

First order of business was to find the terminal that plugs into the GR819 regulator which I finally found last night as a Standard brand pig tail under part number S745 as shown below.

Second order of business was to find the stator terminal that goes from the regulator to the stator terminal on the alternator. I could not find one as a connector and terminal that I could just simply crimp and solder to the pigtail from the S745 connector above, so I will have to go with the Standard brand S2377 terminal which looks to be the correct terminal end for the stator, it does not come back on Rock Auto as fitting a 1993 3.8L Taurus which is the alternator I ordered is listed as fitting its listed as fitting 1994 and newer. The 1990-1993 is a two terminal stator connector which I know is not right. This connector looks just like all the other 3G stator connectors and this one even though its a Standard brand the plastic connector appears to have a Ford part number on the latch of E0BB-14489-CA.

Third order of business is to see if I can locate the terminal itself for the above pigtail so I can just simply crimp and solder the wire directly to avoid an unsightly crimp in the middle of such a short run of wire.

I found as much information I could on the Napa XL 25-09653 V-belt I have before I turned in for the night at 2am. I couldn't find any more information outside of the belt having the following specifications.

Outside Circumference : 38.625"

Top Width : 0.438"

The belt I am planning on running is the Gates 7375 V-belt which is for my '82 F150 with Air Pump and the 70/100A alternator. This belt has the following specifications to compare to the Napa belt I have that is too long.

Outside Circumference : 38.33"

Top Width : 0.41"

I think this may not be short enough seeing the outside circumference is just 0.295" smaller, but I do know the effective length of the belts are quite a bit different, the Napa 9653 belt is comparable to the Gates 7380 belt which is 37.98" effective length and the 7375 belt has an effective length of 37.5" so its a 37 1/2" belt vs a 38" belt which I know 1" difference in belt is drastic. So, I will be ordering that belt off amazon to save money on the belt in the off chance it does not fit.

I know Napa XL belts are not bad I just have always preferred Gates, but I wish I knew what the exact application this belt I have is for because the current belts that Napa offer for my truck are belts like the 25-7380 w/air pump w/o 70/100A alternator that is 37.98" effective length with a 0.41" top width or the 25-7375 w/ air pump w/ 70/100A alternator that is 37.50" effective length with a 0.41" top width no different than the Gates belt.

Either way I will be going with Gates out of personal preference and how ever it fits is how it fits, I know my crank pulley is OE the Alternator pulley is not how ever and I don't know who made it nor the specs on it as there is no part number on it to verify what V-belt it is designed for.

~Update~

Back to the drawing board for the regulator connector S745. One photo I saw showed it had grooves under each terminal to fit multiple applications but the stock photo I posted shows only the single slot in the middle which will not work as the regulator has a off set terminal. Back to looking online for 1995-2000 Ford and 1995 - 2002 Mercury regulators to find the pigtail. So far everything keeps coming back as the same connector that is used on the GR814 regulators which are plentiful connectors. I wish I knew what Ford did here cause this regulator has a F5 design date which puts it in 1995 but yet there is no easily found pigtail for this regulator everything is for the F4 design from 1994.

Little update, first off, the Standard brand S745 voltage regulator plug can be modified to work with the GR819 regulators. I won't be modifying however, I found a guy on Ebay that actually had the correct pigtail connector with the correct key slot. I went ahead and ordered it and it arrived today, plugs it nice and tight to the GR819 voltage regulator I have so this weekend I will be installing the GR819 voltage regulator with its 6 second LRC and will make my own harness up using this connector.

I found the name of this connector is a TE/AMP 3P also known as a Junior Power Timer Connector Series which I found a selection of connectors and terminals at the site below. I will be taking a risk and buying the terminals from here as every place I found on amazon is way too pricy at hundreds of dollars and on Ebay they are all in China or Europe which is too far and too long of a wait for me to verify fitment.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/junior-power-timer.html

I will be ordering x3 of the TE-Amp Jr Power Timer Female Socket Terminal in 17 - 20 awg and x3 of same terminal in 20 -24 awg since they are so cheap. Will also be ordering x3 of the weather seals to see if they will fit the connector I have, this connector doesn't have a weather seal but it does have a orange gasket to seal against the regulator. Without the wire side having seals the point of the connector end having a seal is moot as moisture and water can enter the regulator connector from the unsealed wire side. If the seals don't fit, I will remedy this with a simply small dab of silicone to seal the end.

I did not how ever order the Standard brand stator connector as cheapest I could find it for was on Summit for $25, I was able to pick up a Pico brand stator connector for $6 off amazon. If the connector is no good, I can always buy the Standard one and de-pin the wire and swap it to the Standard brand connector housing.

I have not tried it yet, but I also got in my Gates XL 7375 belt to try over the 7380 belt my truck should use with the 40/60A alternator, the 7375 is the belt for our trucks with the 70/100A alternator and is a good 1/2" shorter which should put my alternator in the middle of its adjustment.

No photos as I have been letting the alternator pivot bracket dry all week before installing it for a mock up of the belt this weekend, but I do have a photo of the connector that I sourced off Ebay that fits the GR819 regulator which means I will be buying up the NOS Motorcraft GR819 regulators off Ebay for $10 - $15 a piece to stash away if I ever need to replace my regulator down the road vs having to buy aftermarket replacements.

For the wiring, what I will be doing is making my own wires from the regulator and will run the exciter wire and the voltage sense wire all the way to the factory voltage regulator. I will be unplugging the OE voltage regulator and will be using spade terminals to connect the exciter wire to the OE key hot wire used to excite the OE regulator and will be using the battery sense terminal at the regulator plug to connect the 3G regulator voltage sense wire to. Most people simply loop that wire to the charge wire terminal on the back of the alternator and this is not a good way to do it. It will force the regulator to cycle rapidly as its reading output voltage at the alternator, when wired like the OE did at the starter solenoid or the battery itself the sense wire is actually reading the battery voltage and doesn't cycle as rapidly. Likewise, if your charge fuse is blown the alternator will see no change and will slowly ramp up output and if it still sees no change at the battery then it will go in essential standby mode putting out just enough output. If you wire it to the alternator and the main fuse is blown it will not go into this standby mode and it could burn the alternator out.

Realistically I probably should crimp and solder the connections, but I am thinking about the future and any slim possibility of a OE restoration to original condition and it has me reluctant to cut OE wiring when I can repurpose it or just simply leave it disconnected.

So, it appears I will be using a 6 second LRC regulator from newer 3G alternators dating from 1994 - 2000 over the more comment terminal end that fits the 2.5 second LRC regulator.

[Gary Lewis]

Little update, first off, the Standard brand S745 voltage regulator plug can be modified to work with the GR819 regulators. I won't be modifying however, I found a guy on Ebay that actually had the correct pigtail connector with the correct key slot. I went ahead and ordered it and it arrived today, plugs it nice and tight to the GR819 voltage regulator I have so this weekend I will be installing the GR819 voltage regulator with its 6 second LRC and will make my own harness up using this connector.

I found the name of this connector is a TE/AMP 3P also known as a Junior Power Timer Connector Series which I found a selection of connectors and terminals at the site below. I will be taking a risk and buying the terminals from here as every place I found on amazon is way too pricy at hundreds of dollars and on Ebay they are all in China or Europe which is too far and too long of a wait for me to verify fitment.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/junior-power-timer.html

I will be ordering x3 of the TE-Amp Jr Power Timer Female Socket Terminal in 17 - 20 awg and x3 of same terminal in 20 -24 awg since they are so cheap. Will also be ordering x3 of the weather seals to see if they will fit the connector I have, this connector doesn't have a weather seal but it does have a orange gasket to seal against the regulator. Without the wire side having seals the point of the connector end having a seal is moot as moisture and water can enter the regulator connector from the unsealed wire side. If the seals don't fit, I will remedy this with a simply small dab of silicone to seal the end.

I did not how ever order the Standard brand stator connector as cheapest I could find it for was on Summit for $25, I was able to pick up a Pico brand stator connector for $6 off amazon. If the connector is no good, I can always buy the Standard one and de-pin the wire and swap it to the Standard brand connector housing.

I have not tried it yet, but I also got in my Gates XL 7375 belt to try over the 7380 belt my truck should use with the 40/60A alternator, the 7375 is the belt for our trucks with the 70/100A alternator and is a good 1/2" shorter which should put my alternator in the middle of its adjustment.

No photos as I have been letting the alternator pivot bracket dry all week before installing it for a mock up of the belt this weekend, but I do have a photo of the connector that I sourced off Ebay that fits the GR819 regulator which means I will be buying up the NOS Motorcraft GR819 regulators off Ebay for $10 - $15 a piece to stash away if I ever need to replace my regulator down the road vs having to buy aftermarket replacements.

For the wiring, what I will be doing is making my own wires from the regulator and will run the exciter wire and the voltage sense wire all the way to the factory voltage regulator. I will be unplugging the OE voltage regulator and will be using spade terminals to connect the exciter wire to the OE key hot wire used to excite the OE regulator and will be using the battery sense terminal at the regulator plug to connect the 3G regulator voltage sense wire to. Most people simply loop that wire to the charge wire terminal on the back of the alternator and this is not a good way to do it. It will force the regulator to cycle rapidly as its reading output voltage at the alternator, when wired like the OE did at the starter solenoid or the battery itself the sense wire is actually reading the battery voltage and doesn't cycle as rapidly. Likewise, if your charge fuse is blown the alternator will see no change and will slowly ramp up output and if it still sees no change at the battery then it will go in essential standby mode putting out just enough output. If you wire it to the alternator and the main fuse is blown it will not go into this standby mode and it could burn the alternator out.

Realistically I probably should crimp and solder the connections, but I am thinking about the future and any slim possibility of a OE restoration to original condition and it has me reluctant to cut OE wiring when I can repurpose it or just simply leave it disconnected.

So, it appears I will be using a 6 second LRC regulator from newer 3G alternators dating from 1994 - 2000 over the more comment terminal end that fits the 2.5 second LRC regulator.

I think I'm following, but need to ask a few questions to make sure.

First, the GR819 regulator fits the 3G but came out in '94 and takes a different connector. And it is those regulators that you can find for $10 - 15 each? That's cheap, but only if the connector is available and cheap as well.

But does that also mean that the alternator you'd need to buy if yours fails isn't available off the shelf in a parts store? You'd have to also buy the GR819 regulator and install it?

And you found a connector, but I don't think you gave us the source or the part number. However, you said it "plugs it nice and tight to the GR819 voltage regulator", but then you talk about terminals. So the connector didn't come with terminals? If so, how can it be nice and tight? I missed something.

As for the terminals, you found a source for them in several different wire sizes. But wouldn't #17 be too small for the power connector? Or, maybe the connector comes with terminals but you want to replace some of them with ones for smaller wire?

Sorry, but I missed something somewhere.

[Rusty_S85]

I think I'm following, but need to ask a few questions to make sure.

First, the GR819 regulator fits the 3G but came out in '94 and takes a different connector. And it is those regulators that you can find for $10 - 15 each? That's cheap, but only if the connector is available and cheap as well.

But does that also mean that the alternator you'd need to buy if yours fails isn't available off the shelf in a parts store? You'd have to also buy the GR819 regulator and install it?

And you found a connector, but I don't think you gave us the source or the part number. However, you said it "plugs it nice and tight to the GR819 voltage regulator", but then you talk about terminals. So the connector didn't come with terminals? If so, how can it be nice and tight? I missed something.

As for the terminals, you found a source for them in several different wire sizes. But wouldn't #17 be too small for the power connector? Or, maybe the connector comes with terminals but you want to replace some of them with ones for smaller wire?

Sorry, but I missed something somewhere.

Yeah, I was a bit all over the place let me clarify.

1) Yes the GR819 regulator is listed as fitting the following vehicles

-1995 to 2000 Ford Contour

-1993 to 1994 Crown Victoria w/ Police Interceptor Package

-1993 to 1994 Lincoln Town Car

-1999 to 2000 Mercury Cougar

-1995 to 2000 Mercury Mystique

2) The regulator does take a different connector, the GR814 regulator has the following connector with the latch facing the alternator housing.

The GR819 regulator has the following connector and uses a Fuel Injection connector spring clip that faces to the rear of the alternator for easy access.

3) NOS Motorcraft GR819 regulators I have found on Ebay for as little as $10 and as high as $20 compared to the GR814 in aftermarket brands that I couldn't find for under $50 online. Below are some Ebay listings of various prices for the GR819 regulator which you might have to search for under the OE part number to get more hits as not all are listed under GR819

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324011820621?hash=item4b709c064d:g:E7sAAOSwh9Je4kWl&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4KoxtYHLbU2Uim5lFiSYmsGByJKEnMWC6ArGFDZmXh8rhWMIq1j9vqSqOaSmYDJQTU87V2%2Ftk5Qs8tx0MhETUxI8MpahtsQYddAbKEMIRr0zithP0YfrhlQ5CrgxTA6It3F%2Bf9%2FWUH1jljsygMyKvsL6fCPDZX0TdNWxAOxCmEYVXrNPlJQE9ZIDrluYKSBu4IV8YfJiljKPYyDb8iXbHSslyFqzK4Fs0r3VbOlL2v1mvlVrP7dYgFQnaVU1ira8Hy%2BhGRh50gpAsa4Ry86iZGW1O4HvDNmUvJWcGIlHu%2Fg8%7Ctkp%3ABFBMhM32uu9h

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225434038635?epid=6037805112&hash=item347cea716b:g:kKUAAOSwyWdj8lNk&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4J%2F%2Bpzpnq%2FfJeHg1BJDR%2BSKqy6rj1M2V6TtBxxxKScKs%2Fua0RI%2BMo8b0wHc2TdrbEABoatlrW2lt27xGNCiygBYUvdKZzS%2FyGc0T3qX3ZecDs%2B1ZGLRUWDuBhu9o85eph9tP5a0%2Bxp51hSpYshA1GOP%2FtUqSvVKI2Zqiud92eVg3xEGCqcNFxkc9UF6XFRLKx8uqtw5gZxhMA%2B6IbmBTcom%2FCL%2FBSW56PPvXmOvpaNSTvZUEbm2eUqAksUlplLsxH1ZDGoKKBbiXUvOFsVbdy%2BoT3bSXotxNCShyjblXr%2B%2Fm%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4TN9rrvYQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/403882000140?hash=item5e093e3f0c:g:YrQAAOSwkiBjHzDD&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAwKjvFpaSyS2ygy3TrEYwPlbtM6veWfuKvv5GhPpTl%2BGUPUFnVjx5Q35GQ0GmEelstl%2Fg0gwxX1%2FEGss3B9FUlhxtKoHcE7djSwS9xcANLP6TS0i5CFEcquYfv2B1ru8xl%2BRuIsuxDwW%2FUztRn9%2F0LA076GnR2cP8aTpgAOolFoSMIwSckVU9TVx%2BEWDDa8GREgn%2B9y9WDp01PEME0afRS9FojAyic5bbsvSo%2F85Opf30HQkmdKrgkSw7UoaCI5A%2BZg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4TN9rrvYQ

There was one listing guy was selling x4 lots of 5 each NTO (New Take Off) GR819 regulators that were put on new alternators that were never finished being built at the factory for one reason or another. I picked up them for $25 per lot of 5, they don't have the brush assemblies though, but I feel you can't beat NOS Motorcraft regulators at $5 a pop even without the brush holder assembly.

Regulator I have is the following part number

F5RU-10316-AA

Some other part numbers I found under the GR819 number is as follows I believe they are also a 6 second LRC as the one above that I have since they all sport the GR819 number

F5RU-10316-BA

F5RZ-10316-A

F5RZ-10316-B

For non Ford numbers

Visteon Alt-C-069

F786

4) The connector is available on Ebay, the one I got was the last one this guy had was $13.96 including shipping. Below is another vendor that has multiples for sale, I went with the one I got because it was cheaper, and the seller was in Texas, so I got it in 2 days with regular USPS shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285144797879?_trkparms=ni_actn%3Anav%7Cni_nt%3AWATCHITM_GTC%7Cni_apos%3A3%7Cni_sg%3A1%7Cni_pos%3A3%7Cni_st%3AREAD%7Cni_wh%3A1%7Cni_nid%3A740785864312%7Cni_nsid%3A285144797879%7Cni_bn%3A1&_trksid=p2380424.m570.l5997

Connector is a JAE brand and if you look at number 3 from the top this connector will plug in but will require sanding off the locating peg on the back side of the regulator which wouldn't be hard to do as you'd still have the two locating pegs on the opposite side to prevent plugging the connector in backwards. The clips latches on the sides so there won't be a problem making that one minor modification for a sub $5 connector from here if the well drys up on Ebay for the right connectors.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/junior-power-timer.html

5) The alternator you wouldn't be able to buy to fit our trucks off the shelf, the regulator can be swapped out how ever with a torq bit however. Could also wait till you get back home and just baby the truck to prevent belt slippage due to no LRC regulator.

6) Correct, you would have to buy the GR819 regulator separate for the alternator that fits our trucks. The swap isn't hard, you carefully remove the assembly and push the brushes back up into their tracks and install a small pin to hold the brushes retracted for assembly then bolt in place and pull the pin out to let the brushes drop. My NOS Motorcraft one with the brush assembly has the brushes pinned and I plan on keeping the pin for when I need to do a regulator swap.

7) The talk about terminals is for the connector, it comes pre terminated with short 4" pigtails, one can simply crimp a wire onto these pigtails and use the connector as is. For myself I didn't want to crimp the white stator wire to the stator connector pig tail and have a unsightly splice on such a short piece of wire. That is why I a getting terminals so I can simply loop the existing wire and crimp it to the new terminal and plug it in directly to the regulator connector. I don't need to do this for the other two wires for the turn on and voltage sense as I could just crimp and solder then apply marine shrink wrap on the splice, since one can buy the terminals cheap, I figure I would just run all new wires and avoid splices.

8) The regulator wires are not large gauge; they appear to be 18ga from eyeballing the pigtails. These wires do not carry a heavy load they are no different than the wires from your 1G alternator to the external voltage regulator. One wire simply excites the alternator by applying 12V key hot to the wire, the other wire is a sense wire for the regulator to sense how much voltage is at the battery and the other wire is just simply going from the regulator to the stator.

[Gary Lewis]

I think I'm following, but need to ask a few questions to make sure.

First, the GR819 regulator fits the 3G but came out in '94 and takes a different connector. And it is those regulators that you can find for $10 - 15 each? That's cheap, but only if the connector is available and cheap as well.

But does that also mean that the alternator you'd need to buy if yours fails isn't available off the shelf in a parts store? You'd have to also buy the GR819 regulator and install it?

And you found a connector, but I don't think you gave us the source or the part number. However, you said it "plugs it nice and tight to the GR819 voltage regulator", but then you talk about terminals. So the connector didn't come with terminals? If so, how can it be nice and tight? I missed something.

As for the terminals, you found a source for them in several different wire sizes. But wouldn't #17 be too small for the power connector? Or, maybe the connector comes with terminals but you want to replace some of them with ones for smaller wire?

Sorry, but I missed something somewhere.

Yeah, I was a bit all over the place let me clarify.

1) Yes the GR819 regulator is listed as fitting the following vehicles

-1995 to 2000 Ford Contour

-1993 to 1994 Crown Victoria w/ Police Interceptor Package

-1993 to 1994 Lincoln Town Car

-1999 to 2000 Mercury Cougar

-1995 to 2000 Mercury Mystique

2) The regulator does take a different connector, the GR814 regulator has the following connector with the latch facing the alternator housing.

The GR819 regulator has the following connector and uses a Fuel Injection connector spring clip that faces to the rear of the alternator for easy access.

3) NOS Motorcraft GR819 regulators I have found on Ebay for as little as $10 and as high as $20 compared to the GR814 in aftermarket brands that I couldn't find for under $50 online. Below are some Ebay listings of various prices for the GR819 regulator which you might have to search for under the OE part number to get more hits as not all are listed under GR819

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324011820621?hash=item4b709c064d:g:E7sAAOSwh9Je4kWl&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4KoxtYHLbU2Uim5lFiSYmsGByJKEnMWC6ArGFDZmXh8rhWMIq1j9vqSqOaSmYDJQTU87V2%2Ftk5Qs8tx0MhETUxI8MpahtsQYddAbKEMIRr0zithP0YfrhlQ5CrgxTA6It3F%2Bf9%2FWUH1jljsygMyKvsL6fCPDZX0TdNWxAOxCmEYVXrNPlJQE9ZIDrluYKSBu4IV8YfJiljKPYyDb8iXbHSslyFqzK4Fs0r3VbOlL2v1mvlVrP7dYgFQnaVU1ira8Hy%2BhGRh50gpAsa4Ry86iZGW1O4HvDNmUvJWcGIlHu%2Fg8%7Ctkp%3ABFBMhM32uu9h

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225434038635?epid=6037805112&hash=item347cea716b:g:kKUAAOSwyWdj8lNk&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4J%2F%2Bpzpnq%2FfJeHg1BJDR%2BSKqy6rj1M2V6TtBxxxKScKs%2Fua0RI%2BMo8b0wHc2TdrbEABoatlrW2lt27xGNCiygBYUvdKZzS%2FyGc0T3qX3ZecDs%2B1ZGLRUWDuBhu9o85eph9tP5a0%2Bxp51hSpYshA1GOP%2FtUqSvVKI2Zqiud92eVg3xEGCqcNFxkc9UF6XFRLKx8uqtw5gZxhMA%2B6IbmBTcom%2FCL%2FBSW56PPvXmOvpaNSTvZUEbm2eUqAksUlplLsxH1ZDGoKKBbiXUvOFsVbdy%2BoT3bSXotxNCShyjblXr%2B%2Fm%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4TN9rrvYQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/403882000140?hash=item5e093e3f0c:g:YrQAAOSwkiBjHzDD&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAwKjvFpaSyS2ygy3TrEYwPlbtM6veWfuKvv5GhPpTl%2BGUPUFnVjx5Q35GQ0GmEelstl%2Fg0gwxX1%2FEGss3B9FUlhxtKoHcE7djSwS9xcANLP6TS0i5CFEcquYfv2B1ru8xl%2BRuIsuxDwW%2FUztRn9%2F0LA076GnR2cP8aTpgAOolFoSMIwSckVU9TVx%2BEWDDa8GREgn%2B9y9WDp01PEME0afRS9FojAyic5bbsvSo%2F85Opf30HQkmdKrgkSw7UoaCI5A%2BZg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4TN9rrvYQ

There was one listing guy was selling x4 lots of 5 each NTO (New Take Off) GR819 regulators that were put on new alternators that were never finished being built at the factory for one reason or another. I picked up them for $25 per lot of 5, they don't have the brush assemblies though, but I feel you can't beat NOS Motorcraft regulators at $5 a pop even without the brush holder assembly.

Regulator I have is the following part number

F5RU-10316-AA

Some other part numbers I found under the GR819 number is as follows I believe they are also a 6 second LRC as the one above that I have since they all sport the GR819 number

F5RU-10316-BA

F5RZ-10316-A

F5RZ-10316-B

For non Ford numbers

Visteon Alt-C-069

F786

4) The connector is available on Ebay, the one I got was the last one this guy had was $13.96 including shipping. Below is another vendor that has multiples for sale, I went with the one I got because it was cheaper, and the seller was in Texas, so I got it in 2 days with regular USPS shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285144797879?_trkparms=ni_actn%3Anav%7Cni_nt%3AWATCHITM_GTC%7Cni_apos%3A3%7Cni_sg%3A1%7Cni_pos%3A3%7Cni_st%3AREAD%7Cni_wh%3A1%7Cni_nid%3A740785864312%7Cni_nsid%3A285144797879%7Cni_bn%3A1&_trksid=p2380424.m570.l5997

Connector is a JAE brand and if you look at number 3 from the top this connector will plug in but will require sanding off the locating peg on the back side of the regulator which wouldn't be hard to do as you'd still have the two locating pegs on the opposite side to prevent plugging the connector in backwards. The clips latches on the sides so there won't be a problem making that one minor modification for a sub $5 connector from here if the well drys up on Ebay for the right connectors.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/junior-power-timer.html

5) The alternator you wouldn't be able to buy to fit our trucks off the shelf, the regulator can be swapped out how ever with a torq bit however. Could also wait till you get back home and just baby the truck to prevent belt slippage due to no LRC regulator.

6) Correct, you would have to buy the GR819 regulator separate for the alternator that fits our trucks. The swap isn't hard, you carefully remove the assembly and push the brushes back up into their tracks and install a small pin to hold the brushes retracted for assembly then bolt in place and pull the pin out to let the brushes drop. My NOS Motorcraft one with the brush assembly has the brushes pinned and I plan on keeping the pin for when I need to do a regulator swap.

7) The talk about terminals is for the connector, it comes pre terminated with short 4" pigtails, one can simply crimp a wire onto these pigtails and use the connector as is. For myself I didn't want to crimp the white stator wire to the stator connector pig tail and have a unsightly splice on such a short piece of wire. That is why I a getting terminals so I can simply loop the existing wire and crimp it to the new terminal and plug it in directly to the regulator connector. I don't need to do this for the other two wires for the turn on and voltage sense as I could just crimp and solder then apply marine shrink wrap on the splice, since one can buy the terminals cheap, I figure I would just run all new wires and avoid splices.

8) The regulator wires are not large gauge; they appear to be 18ga from eyeballing the pigtails. These wires do not carry a heavy load they are no different than the wires from your 1G alternator to the external voltage regulator. One wire simply excites the alternator by applying 12V key hot to the wire, the other wire is a sense wire for the regulator to sense how much voltage is at the battery and the other wire is just simply going from the regulator to the stator.

Thanks for the thorough response. I now understand.

[Rusty_S85]

I think I'm following, but need to ask a few questions to make sure.

First, the GR819 regulator fits the 3G but came out in '94 and takes a different connector. And it is those regulators that you can find for $10 - 15 each? That's cheap, but only if the connector is available and cheap as well.

But does that also mean that the alternator you'd need to buy if yours fails isn't available off the shelf in a parts store? You'd have to also buy the GR819 regulator and install it?

And you found a connector, but I don't think you gave us the source or the part number. However, you said it "plugs it nice and tight to the GR819 voltage regulator", but then you talk about terminals. So the connector didn't come with terminals? If so, how can it be nice and tight? I missed something.

As for the terminals, you found a source for them in several different wire sizes. But wouldn't #17 be too small for the power connector? Or, maybe the connector comes with terminals but you want to replace some of them with ones for smaller wire?

Sorry, but I missed something somewhere.

Yeah, I was a bit all over the place let me clarify.

1) Yes the GR819 regulator is listed as fitting the following vehicles

-1995 to 2000 Ford Contour

-1993 to 1994 Crown Victoria w/ Police Interceptor Package

-1993 to 1994 Lincoln Town Car

-1999 to 2000 Mercury Cougar

-1995 to 2000 Mercury Mystique

2) The regulator does take a different connector, the GR814 regulator has the following connector with the latch facing the alternator housing.

The GR819 regulator has the following connector and uses a Fuel Injection connector spring clip that faces to the rear of the alternator for easy access.

3) NOS Motorcraft GR819 regulators I have found on Ebay for as little as $10 and as high as $20 compared to the GR814 in aftermarket brands that I couldn't find for under $50 online. Below are some Ebay listings of various prices for the GR819 regulator which you might have to search for under the OE part number to get more hits as not all are listed under GR819

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324011820621?hash=item4b709c064d:g:E7sAAOSwh9Je4kWl&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4KoxtYHLbU2Uim5lFiSYmsGByJKEnMWC6ArGFDZmXh8rhWMIq1j9vqSqOaSmYDJQTU87V2%2Ftk5Qs8tx0MhETUxI8MpahtsQYddAbKEMIRr0zithP0YfrhlQ5CrgxTA6It3F%2Bf9%2FWUH1jljsygMyKvsL6fCPDZX0TdNWxAOxCmEYVXrNPlJQE9ZIDrluYKSBu4IV8YfJiljKPYyDb8iXbHSslyFqzK4Fs0r3VbOlL2v1mvlVrP7dYgFQnaVU1ira8Hy%2BhGRh50gpAsa4Ry86iZGW1O4HvDNmUvJWcGIlHu%2Fg8%7Ctkp%3ABFBMhM32uu9h

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225434038635?epid=6037805112&hash=item347cea716b:g:kKUAAOSwyWdj8lNk&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4J%2F%2Bpzpnq%2FfJeHg1BJDR%2BSKqy6rj1M2V6TtBxxxKScKs%2Fua0RI%2BMo8b0wHc2TdrbEABoatlrW2lt27xGNCiygBYUvdKZzS%2FyGc0T3qX3ZecDs%2B1ZGLRUWDuBhu9o85eph9tP5a0%2Bxp51hSpYshA1GOP%2FtUqSvVKI2Zqiud92eVg3xEGCqcNFxkc9UF6XFRLKx8uqtw5gZxhMA%2B6IbmBTcom%2FCL%2FBSW56PPvXmOvpaNSTvZUEbm2eUqAksUlplLsxH1ZDGoKKBbiXUvOFsVbdy%2BoT3bSXotxNCShyjblXr%2B%2Fm%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4TN9rrvYQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/403882000140?hash=item5e093e3f0c:g:YrQAAOSwkiBjHzDD&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAwKjvFpaSyS2ygy3TrEYwPlbtM6veWfuKvv5GhPpTl%2BGUPUFnVjx5Q35GQ0GmEelstl%2Fg0gwxX1%2FEGss3B9FUlhxtKoHcE7djSwS9xcANLP6TS0i5CFEcquYfv2B1ru8xl%2BRuIsuxDwW%2FUztRn9%2F0LA076GnR2cP8aTpgAOolFoSMIwSckVU9TVx%2BEWDDa8GREgn%2B9y9WDp01PEME0afRS9FojAyic5bbsvSo%2F85Opf30HQkmdKrgkSw7UoaCI5A%2BZg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4TN9rrvYQ

There was one listing guy was selling x4 lots of 5 each NTO (New Take Off) GR819 regulators that were put on new alternators that were never finished being built at the factory for one reason or another. I picked up them for $25 per lot of 5, they don't have the brush assemblies though, but I feel you can't beat NOS Motorcraft regulators at $5 a pop even without the brush holder assembly.

Regulator I have is the following part number

F5RU-10316-AA

Some other part numbers I found under the GR819 number is as follows I believe they are also a 6 second LRC as the one above that I have since they all sport the GR819 number

F5RU-10316-BA

F5RZ-10316-A

F5RZ-10316-B

For non Ford numbers

Visteon Alt-C-069

F786

4) The connector is available on Ebay, the one I got was the last one this guy had was $13.96 including shipping. Below is another vendor that has multiples for sale, I went with the one I got because it was cheaper, and the seller was in Texas, so I got it in 2 days with regular USPS shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285144797879?_trkparms=ni_actn%3Anav%7Cni_nt%3AWATCHITM_GTC%7Cni_apos%3A3%7Cni_sg%3A1%7Cni_pos%3A3%7Cni_st%3AREAD%7Cni_wh%3A1%7Cni_nid%3A740785864312%7Cni_nsid%3A285144797879%7Cni_bn%3A1&_trksid=p2380424.m570.l5997

Connector is a JAE brand and if you look at number 3 from the top this connector will plug in but will require sanding off the locating peg on the back side of the regulator which wouldn't be hard to do as you'd still have the two locating pegs on the opposite side to prevent plugging the connector in backwards. The clips latches on the sides so there won't be a problem making that one minor modification for a sub $5 connector from here if the well drys up on Ebay for the right connectors.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/junior-power-timer.html

5) The alternator you wouldn't be able to buy to fit our trucks off the shelf, the regulator can be swapped out how ever with a torq bit however. Could also wait till you get back home and just baby the truck to prevent belt slippage due to no LRC regulator.

6) Correct, you would have to buy the GR819 regulator separate for the alternator that fits our trucks. The swap isn't hard, you carefully remove the assembly and push the brushes back up into their tracks and install a small pin to hold the brushes retracted for assembly then bolt in place and pull the pin out to let the brushes drop. My NOS Motorcraft one with the brush assembly has the brushes pinned and I plan on keeping the pin for when I need to do a regulator swap.

7) The talk about terminals is for the connector, it comes pre terminated with short 4" pigtails, one can simply crimp a wire onto these pigtails and use the connector as is. For myself I didn't want to crimp the white stator wire to the stator connector pig tail and have a unsightly splice on such a short piece of wire. That is why I a getting terminals so I can simply loop the existing wire and crimp it to the new terminal and plug it in directly to the regulator connector. I don't need to do this for the other two wires for the turn on and voltage sense as I could just crimp and solder then apply marine shrink wrap on the splice, since one can buy the terminals cheap, I figure I would just run all new wires and avoid splices.

8) The regulator wires are not large gauge; they appear to be 18ga from eyeballing the pigtails. These wires do not carry a heavy load they are no different than the wires from your 1G alternator to the external voltage regulator. One wire simply excites the alternator by applying 12V key hot to the wire, the other wire is a sense wire for the regulator to sense how much voltage is at the battery and the other wire is just simply going from the regulator to the stator.

Got the alternator squared away, only thing left now is to get the terminals and the depinning tool. I think I am going to use the stator pigtail wire as it is long enough to cut down some and loop to the regulator itself.

First photo is the regulator that came with my 3G alternator removed and the NOS GR819 regulator mounted. Was a straight swap with no problem, they are both exactly the same outside of the connector being changed between the GR814 and GR819.

Second photo is the alternator mounted with the painted adjustment arm installed as well as the new 7375 belt that gives me more adjustment, might switch how ever to a 7370 belt to get more adjustment but if this belt works for me then I will stick with it.

Third photo is of the alternator showing the belt alignment with the new 7370 belt and fit. Also showing the correct GR819 regulator connector and the stator connector. Can see the pigtails for the stator are to be so short there is no point in splicing, thats why I want to just crimp the correct regulator terminal on the wire and plug it into the regulator connector directly.

Fourth photo is of the regulator connector showing how easy it is to unplug the regulator with the GR819 regulator unlike the GR814 regulator with the tab you have to lift that faces the alternator body. One modification I had to make how ever was the spring wire clip has ears that were too long and would contact the alternator body before the connector could be plugged in. I used some side cutters and clipped the wire closer to the bend now it plugs and unplugs easily with no effort. I am quite happy with using the GR819 regulator as I have had to unplug the regulator plug on the GR814 and know how easy it is to break the tab when trying to lift it.

[Gary Lewis]

Got the alternator squared away, only thing left now is to get the terminals and the depinning tool. I think I am going to use the stator pigtail wire as it is long enough to cut down some and loop to the regulator itself.

First photo is the regulator that came with my 3G alternator removed and the NOS GR819 regulator mounted. Was a straight swap with no problem, they are both exactly the same outside of the connector being changed between the GR814 and GR819.

Second photo is the alternator mounted with the painted adjustment arm installed as well as the new 7375 belt that gives me more adjustment, might switch how ever to a 7370 belt to get more adjustment but if this belt works for me then I will stick with it.

Third photo is of the alternator showing the belt alignment with the new 7370 belt and fit. Also showing the correct GR819 regulator connector and the stator connector. Can see the pigtails for the stator are to be so short there is no point in splicing, thats why I want to just crimp the correct regulator terminal on the wire and plug it into the regulator connector directly.

Fourth photo is of the regulator connector showing how easy it is to unplug the regulator with the GR819 regulator unlike the GR814 regulator with the tab you have to lift that faces the alternator body. One modification I had to make how ever was the spring wire clip has ears that were too long and would contact the alternator body before the connector could be plugged in. I used some side cutters and clipped the wire closer to the bend now it plugs and unplugs easily with no effort. I am quite happy with using the GR819 regulator as I have had to unplug the regulator plug on the GR814 and know how easy it is to break the tab when trying to lift it.

That looks like very good progress. And I see why you want the terminals so you don't have to splice. Plus, I agree how much of a pain the old connectors are to get off and can see why Ford changed.

[Rusty_S85]

That looks like very good progress. And I see why you want the terminals so you don't have to splice. Plus, I agree how much of a pain the old connectors are to get off and can see why Ford changed.

Yep, it's real shame the new production regulators don't use this connector and just give the pigtail to make the swap. I know years ago when you bought a improved part from Ford they would give you the connector pigtail to splice in.

One thing I forgot however, was the photo below that is showing how much adjustment I have now with the 7375 belt and why I might still go smaller to a 7370 belt.

With the 6 second LRC regulator I shouldn't need to tension the belt that tight so I might be ok with the 7375 belt with the amount of adjustment I have.

Another thing, I am thinking about making a ground strap for the alternator. Not far from the alternator itself is the point where the negative battery cable mounts to the block. It wouldn't be hard to make a 10ga wire and place it atop the negative battery cable at the block to ensure the alternator case is grounded.