Fuel Injection upgrade

[Rusty_S85]

I'm with you on everything but the locating pins. I got lost there. Are they for keeping the air cleaner from being installed at the wrong angle?

Correct the locating pins would to keep the aircleaner from rotating. The stud itself would keep the aircleaner from moving side to side but it wouldnt stop the aircleaner from spinning. I figured drill a little hole and afix a dowel to the plate to make contact with the locating ears would keep it in place.

I also found out on FTE that this aircleaner I have is probably for one of the variable venturi carbs that were most likely larger base for the aircleaner.

Only thing is some are wondering why I am sticking with OE sized single exhaust and OE aircleaner but doing a performance build. My line of thought is the 2 1/2" to 2 1/4" exhaust setup on these trucks were the same for 302 and 351W engines. If they were enough for a 351W engine to breath properly then it should be big enough for a 302 or a 306 in this case to breathe properly. Same with the aircleaners, if they fit 302/351W then they should be capable of providing enough air volume for a 306. After all a engine is only able to pull in so much air and a 306 will never pull in more air than a 351W unless you start spinning it at way higher rpm. Which my engine wouldnt be spinning more rpm than a 351W as my redline is 6,000 but power band is only 1,400 to 5,400 rpm

[Jacob84]

Correct the locating pins would to keep the aircleaner from rotating. The stud itself would keep the aircleaner from moving side to side but it wouldnt stop the aircleaner from spinning. I figured drill a little hole and afix a dowel to the plate to make contact with the locating ears would keep it in place.

I also found out on FTE that this aircleaner I have is probably for one of the variable venturi carbs that were most likely larger base for the aircleaner.

Only thing is some are wondering why I am sticking with OE sized single exhaust and OE aircleaner but doing a performance build. My line of thought is the 2 1/2" to 2 1/4" exhaust setup on these trucks were the same for 302 and 351W engines. If they were enough for a 351W engine to breath properly then it should be big enough for a 302 or a 306 in this case to breathe properly. Same with the aircleaners, if they fit 302/351W then they should be capable of providing enough air volume for a 306. After all a engine is only able to pull in so much air and a 306 will never pull in more air than a 351W unless you start spinning it at way higher rpm. Which my engine wouldnt be spinning more rpm than a 351W as my redline is 6,000 but power band is only 1,400 to 5,400 rpm

I have a single 2.5 inch exhaust, stock manifolds, mild 351w. Breaths just fine. A lot of people go a little overboard with exhaust on a street vehicle that spends most time at 500-3,000 rpm. Not worth the hassle to me at least. I'm looking forward to you getting yours together and how it runs.

[Rusty_S85]

I have a single 2.5 inch exhaust, stock manifolds, mild 351w. Breaths just fine. A lot of people go a little overboard with exhaust on a street vehicle that spends most time at 500-3,000 rpm. Not worth the hassle to me at least. I'm looking forward to you getting yours together and how it runs.

Thats the thing, lots of people go too big on exhaust. In my eyes if ford felt 2 1/2" from the manifolds back to the muffler and then 2 1/4" from the muffler back is big enough for a 351W then it should be big enough for a street 306 that isnt even running a restrictive converter that will never see past 5,500 rpm when floored.

Im also anxious to see how its going to run especially with the fuel injection. I know these snipers just doing the default setting results in way more responsive throttle than the carburetor that came off.

In other news, I got a notification that a 84-86 Mustang HO air cleaner has came down in price by $10 online. I can pick it up for $180 with free shipping. I still think that is too much money for a used aircleaner that is banged up and as the description states, one snorkel is held on by rivets the other by screws. That tells me its going to be kind of like the one I have currently that had two screws put in it as the rivets were loose.

I cant post the three photos I have as it changes all the photos to be the same photo. Not sure I want to get it though. I probably could take and use my air cleaner lid as I think all the aircleaners were the same size.

Also looks like the temperature switch for the snorkel vacuum motors is in the bottom of the aircleaner which I am not too crazy about but I guess if my NOS air cleaner lid will fit this air cleaner I could leave that one empty and hook up to the one in the lid itself.

[Gary Lewis]

Thats the thing, lots of people go too big on exhaust. In my eyes if ford felt 2 1/2" from the manifolds back to the muffler and then 2 1/4" from the muffler back is big enough for a 351W then it should be big enough for a street 306 that isnt even running a restrictive converter that will never see past 5,500 rpm when floored.

Im also anxious to see how its going to run especially with the fuel injection. I know these snipers just doing the default setting results in way more responsive throttle than the carburetor that came off.

In other news, I got a notification that a 84-86 Mustang HO air cleaner has came down in price by $10 online. I can pick it up for $180 with free shipping. I still think that is too much money for a used aircleaner that is banged up and as the description states, one snorkel is held on by rivets the other by screws. That tells me its going to be kind of like the one I have currently that had two screws put in it as the rivets were loose.

I cant post the three photos I have as it changes all the photos to be the same photo. Not sure I want to get it though. I probably could take and use my air cleaner lid as I think all the aircleaners were the same size.

Also looks like the temperature switch for the snorkel vacuum motors is in the bottom of the aircleaner which I am not too crazy about but I guess if my NOS air cleaner lid will fit this air cleaner I could leave that one empty and hook up to the one in the lid itself.

You also found out on here about the VV air cleaner:

Is your NOS air cleaner for a VV? They have a larger air cleaner opening.

And, as I was scrolling back through to find that I also found that you asked me a question about dual snorkel air cleaners. Do you still want to discuss that? I think it would work.

Also, I think there are at least three sizes of V8 air cleaner lids: the 351W HO/460 lid is the largest; the Mustang HO lid is next; and the truck 2bbl lid is the smallest. I'm not sure that the Mustang lid isn't the same size as the 2bbl lid, but I'm fairly sure it is smaller than the 351W HO lid.

[Gary Lewis]

You also found out on here about the VV air cleaner:

Is your NOS air cleaner for a VV? They have a larger air cleaner opening.

And, as I was scrolling back through to find that I also found that you asked me a question about dual snorkel air cleaners. Do you still want to discuss that? I think it would work.

Also, I think there are at least three sizes of V8 air cleaner lids: the 351W HO/460 lid is the largest; the Mustang HO lid is next; and the truck 2bbl lid is the smallest. I'm not sure that the Mustang lid isn't the same size as the 2bbl lid, but I'm fairly sure it is smaller than the 351W HO lid.

On the air cleaner lids, post the size of yours and I'll check my 351 HO lid tomorrow. And a 2bbl lid if I have one.

[Rusty_S85]

You also found out on here about the VV air cleaner:

Is your NOS air cleaner for a VV? They have a larger air cleaner opening.

And, as I was scrolling back through to find that I also found that you asked me a question about dual snorkel air cleaners. Do you still want to discuss that? I think it would work.

Also, I think there are at least three sizes of V8 air cleaner lids: the 351W HO/460 lid is the largest; the Mustang HO lid is next; and the truck 2bbl lid is the smallest. I'm not sure that the Mustang lid isn't the same size as the 2bbl lid, but I'm fairly sure it is smaller than the 351W HO lid.

Sure. Ill consider a dual snorkel air cleaner as an alternative if it fits better. I do believe my '82 F150 has the opening on the driver side as well and I have another passengerside duct that I can chop up to make fit. My only concern is spending $200+ for a mustang dual snorkel air cleaner and then it doesnt fit right with my dealer AC.

My idea was to maintain my push in breather as I believe my breather is forward enough to clear it but wont know till I install everything. If it is then I would have to route the hose along the side of the motor to the back of the aircleaner unless I relocate the pcv to the driverside front which I am not too sure about till I get to digging into my instructions to see where the PCV port is on my 4150 sniper.

On the lid, I cant get the 2V one off my truck right now as its raining pretty heavy right now but I did measure the NOS unit I got, lip to lip on the lid measuring directly across the aircleaner stud hole gave me 15 7/8". Center of the rubber gasket to center of the rubber gasket across the stud hole gave me a 15 3/8" diameter. The air filter is a 11 1/8" diameter filter with a motorcraft part# of D2AF-9601-AA

If it would fit the Mustang HO lid that would be nice cause my lid is already painted satin black.

This is a photo of the NOS aircleaner lid I have, its a older photo when I was trying to decide on a decal for it but it shows the black finish on the lid.

[Rusty_S85]

Sure. Ill consider a dual snorkel air cleaner as an alternative if it fits better. I do believe my '82 F150 has the opening on the driver side as well and I have another passengerside duct that I can chop up to make fit. My only concern is spending $200+ for a mustang dual snorkel air cleaner and then it doesnt fit right with my dealer AC.

My idea was to maintain my push in breather as I believe my breather is forward enough to clear it but wont know till I install everything. If it is then I would have to route the hose along the side of the motor to the back of the aircleaner unless I relocate the pcv to the driverside front which I am not too sure about till I get to digging into my instructions to see where the PCV port is on my 4150 sniper.

On the lid, I cant get the 2V one off my truck right now as its raining pretty heavy right now but I did measure the NOS unit I got, lip to lip on the lid measuring directly across the aircleaner stud hole gave me 15 7/8". Center of the rubber gasket to center of the rubber gasket across the stud hole gave me a 15 3/8" diameter. The air filter is a 11 1/8" diameter filter with a motorcraft part# of D2AF-9601-AA

If it would fit the Mustang HO lid that would be nice cause my lid is already painted satin black.

This is a photo of the NOS aircleaner lid I have, its a older photo when I was trying to decide on a decal for it but it shows the black finish on the lid.

I took my old fuse box wiring diagram I created a year and a half ago and upgraded it to reflect changes I will have to make for my fuel injection decision.

Only possible change I am still thinking about from the diagram is possibly splicing my two KC 100w driving lights to the same highbeam relay to free up a relay spot. Im also playing ideas through my head right now on if its possible to even link the two AC relays into one. But I dont believe it is as one relay has to be grounded when the AC is switched on to provide a ground signal for input #1 to provide the AC kick or high idle over ride which is what I will be using. The relay for AC shut down using output #6 which is the sniper applying a ground to the relay to switch from the normally closed center pin position to the switched pin which will disconnect the AC circuit.

Im also not sure if I should go as large as 15A for the battery hot circuit for the shut down relay to sniper ground. Probably could get by with just 5A.

Might be a little hard to read seeing as its created in paint. I will be doing a better diagram in photoshop just trying to get the idea pinned first so I am not making multiple changes. Only thing I am unsure about is the gauges and colors of the wires I want to use. I might make changes there but I did order a bunch of wire from my bulk wiring website. I got the following so far.

20Ga Green SXL cross linked - 40ft

16Ga Green SXL cross linked - 20ft

16Ga Brown SXL cross linked - 20ft

16Ga Black SXL cross linked - 20ft

16Ga Blue SXL cross linked - 20ft

14Ga Orange SXL cross linked - 15ft

10Ga Red SXL cross linked - 8ft

Have to find my paperwork where I made notes of what my plan was when I bought these wires as I dont remember. I think the 20Ga wire I got was for my CB power wire and I believe the 10ga wire is for the main power wire for the bussed fuse terminal.

[Gary Lewis]

I took my old fuse box wiring diagram I created a year and a half ago and upgraded it to reflect changes I will have to make for my fuel injection decision.

Only possible change I am still thinking about from the diagram is possibly splicing my two KC 100w driving lights to the same highbeam relay to free up a relay spot. Im also playing ideas through my head right now on if its possible to even link the two AC relays into one. But I dont believe it is as one relay has to be grounded when the AC is switched on to provide a ground signal for input #1 to provide the AC kick or high idle over ride which is what I will be using. The relay for AC shut down using output #6 which is the sniper applying a ground to the relay to switch from the normally closed center pin position to the switched pin which will disconnect the AC circuit.

Im also not sure if I should go as large as 15A for the battery hot circuit for the shut down relay to sniper ground. Probably could get by with just 5A.

Might be a little hard to read seeing as its created in paint. I will be doing a better diagram in photoshop just trying to get the idea pinned first so I am not making multiple changes. Only thing I am unsure about is the gauges and colors of the wires I want to use. I might make changes there but I did order a bunch of wire from my bulk wiring website. I got the following so far.

20Ga Green SXL cross linked - 40ft

16Ga Green SXL cross linked - 20ft

16Ga Brown SXL cross linked - 20ft

16Ga Black SXL cross linked - 20ft

16Ga Blue SXL cross linked - 20ft

14Ga Orange SXL cross linked - 15ft

10Ga Red SXL cross linked - 8ft

Have to find my paperwork where I made notes of what my plan was when I bought these wires as I dont remember. I think the 20Ga wire I got was for my CB power wire and I believe the 10ga wire is for the main power wire for the bussed fuse terminal.

I got a little bit lost on the AC relays. Let me state it how I think you meant it:

• You need a ground to tell the Sniper when the AC is on

• The Sniper provides a ground when it wants to kill the AC

If that's the case then I think you are stuck using two relays - one to give the ground to the Sniper when the AC is on, and one to open the circuit to the AC when the Sniper wants to turn it off.

[Rusty_S85]

I got a little bit lost on the AC relays. Let me state it how I think you meant it:

• You need a ground to tell the Sniper when the AC is on

• The Sniper provides a ground when it wants to kill the AC

If that's the case then I think you are stuck using two relays - one to give the ground to the Sniper when the AC is on, and one to open the circuit to the AC when the Sniper wants to turn it off.

Correct, the AC kicker relay needs to apply ground to Input #1 to inform the sniper the AC is on. The AC cut out relay has 12V power on the relay at all times and it only becomes active when the Output #6 wire is applied to ground by the sniper itself to close the relay. It is why this relay will use pin 5 or 87a pin which is normally hot till it is active then the circuit is broken as pin 87a goes dead while pin 87 goes active.

This is a new photoshop diagram I created in the last hour to clean things up and make it a easier to understand by showing pin 87a vs my hand drawn paint diagram shown above.

Only thing that isnt labeled on this is the fuel pump relay as I cant remember exactly how the wiring is done as I only ever cut one harness apart and there is no active wiring diagram for this setup.

Auxiliary_Wiring_Diagram.bmp

To cut down on a bunch of back and forth wiring, the AC kick relay gets its trigger from pin 87a from the AC cutout relay. This way when the sniper shuts the AC down it also tells the sniper the AC is shut down on the AC kick relay. I dont know if it would cause a problem if it still showed the AC as active or not, but I dont think I want to chase my tail with it causing a problem and not thinking of it.

I also found out the smaller relay which is relay R6 on the above diagram, it is a 20A relay which should be fine cause the Sniper is only rated for 15A. The larger square relays I found are 40A relays which means I should be able to move my KC driving lights to obtain power from the highbeam relay as it is doubtful it would ever exceed 20A with highbeams and driving lights active.

[Rusty_S85]

Correct, the AC kicker relay needs to apply ground to Input #1 to inform the sniper the AC is on. The AC cut out relay has 12V power on the relay at all times and it only becomes active when the Output #6 wire is applied to ground by the sniper itself to close the relay. It is why this relay will use pin 5 or 87a pin which is normally hot till it is active then the circuit is broken as pin 87a goes dead while pin 87 goes active.

This is a new photoshop diagram I created in the last hour to clean things up and make it a easier to understand by showing pin 87a vs my hand drawn paint diagram shown above.

Only thing that isnt labeled on this is the fuel pump relay as I cant remember exactly how the wiring is done as I only ever cut one harness apart and there is no active wiring diagram for this setup.

To cut down on a bunch of back and forth wiring, the AC kick relay gets its trigger from pin 87a from the AC cutout relay. This way when the sniper shuts the AC down it also tells the sniper the AC is shut down on the AC kick relay. I dont know if it would cause a problem if it still showed the AC as active or not, but I dont think I want to chase my tail with it causing a problem and not thinking of it.

I also found out the smaller relay which is relay R6 on the above diagram, it is a 20A relay which should be fine cause the Sniper is only rated for 15A. The larger square relays I found are 40A relays which means I should be able to move my KC driving lights to obtain power from the highbeam relay as it is doubtful it would ever exceed 20A with highbeams and driving lights active.

Yet another possible change I am possibly making.

Since I am going with a 85-86 fuel tank so I can have a in tank fuel pump that means I will be running a fuel tank without baffling in said tank. Holley how ever makes what they call a HydraMat that in videos looks like it would stop low fuel level performance issues with a fuel injection setup due to fuel slosh.

The only thing I dont like about this is its kind of pricy at $200 nearly for a 3"x15" strip. Normally this wouldnt be a problem but Holley`s paperwork on this product states the following.

The HydraMat filtration performance will provide 5-10 years or more depending on the fuel type, how clean your fuel

system is, how much you drive your car, and how aggressively the car is used. Severe duty applications should inspect

the filter at regular intervals to ensure the Hydramat is not restricted by debris. The Hydramat is not cleanable.

That makes me wary cause 5 - 10 years of use does worry me a bit. Am I going to be having to drop my tank every 5 to 10 years when the OE setups would run till the pump finally burns up. I also dont like how they also state the life expectancy is dependent on the fuel type, how clean the fuel system is (which fuel system cleanliness is dependent on the gas station as what gets pumped in your tank wont get to your filter unless its small enough) or how much/aggressively you drive your vehicle.

To me that makes it sound like highway driving at 75 - 80 mph for 2 or 3 hours at a time on the highway is going to potentially cause me to have to be dropping my fuel tank constantly. I am going to have to do a lot of thinking on this.

But the fuel pump I was looking at wont work with this HydraMat, its a Walbro GSS340 style pump with a 22mm fuel pump inlet but I can pick up a Walbro GSS341 or GSS342 style pump which has either a inline with outlet or a offset with outlet inlet that is 11mm which is the size of the Hydramat.

So this is one option that can be had but I need to do more research on realistic life expectancy for this product though. I dont like the 5 to 10 year life span and that with agressive driving you need to check it on a more regular basis. People wont be dropping their tanks in a driver to do this. But they do offer this mat in their EFI retrofit in tank sending unit pump assemblies for classic cars. Something people really wouldnt be dropping the tanks from on a regular basis.