Fuel Injection upgrade

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty - Is this sorta what you are looking for? If so, it is yours for the shipping cost. And I'll remove the snorkels to keep the shipping cost down.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n123198/5%2C0_Mustang_Dual_Snorkel_-_Overall.jpg

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n123198/5%2C0_Mustang_Dual_Snorkel_-_Underside_Of_Lid.jpg

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n123198/5%2C0_Mustang_Dual_Snorkel_-_Damage_To_Lid.jpg

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n123198/5%2C0_Mustang_Dual_Snorkel_-_Damage_To_Base.jpg

That looks like it, one I'm looking at is the '83 - '85 which is supposed to be the 17" diameter model not the '82 which was 15" diameter.

[Gary Lewis]

Rusty - Is this sorta what you are looking for? If so, it is yours for the shipping cost. And I'll remove the snorkels to keep the shipping cost down.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n123198/5%2C0_Mustang_Dual_Snorkel_-_Overall.jpg

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n123198/5%2C0_Mustang_Dual_Snorkel_-_Underside_Of_Lid.jpg

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n123198/5%2C0_Mustang_Dual_Snorkel_-_Damage_To_Lid.jpg

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n123198/5%2C0_Mustang_Dual_Snorkel_-_Damage_To_Base.jpg

That looks like it, one I'm looking at is the '83 - '85 which is supposed to be the 17" diameter model not the '82 which was 15" diameter.

Sorry, but this one is 15 1/2".

[Rusty_S85]

Sorry, but this one is 15 1/2".

Ah ok, that is the '82 dual snorkel one. I probably could use it, but in my reading I been doing the 15" has a smaller not just diameter but also height air filter than the '83-'85 filter that is 17".

For a '82 Mustang 5.0 the part number I found was a Fram one for the air filter CA351. It has the following dimensions.

Inside Diameter : 9.020"

Outside Diameter : 10.765"

Height : 2.630"

For a '83-85 Mustang 5.0 the part number I found was a Fram one for the air filter CA324A. It has the following dimensions.

Inside Diameter : 11.190"

Outside Diameter : 12.656"

Height : 2.800"

I probably would be fine with the smaller '82 air filter but if I can find me a '83-'85 model I think it would be better for my Sniper and its 800+ cfm rating even though I read also that the dual snorkel mustang air cleaner assemblies flowed almost 600 cfm.

[Rusty_S85]

Sorry, but this one is 15 1/2".

Ah ok, that is the '82 dual snorkel one. I probably could use it, but in my reading I been doing the 15" has a smaller not just diameter but also height air filter than the '83-'85 filter that is 17".

For a '82 Mustang 5.0 the part number I found was a Fram one for the air filter CA351. It has the following dimensions.

Inside Diameter : 9.020"

Outside Diameter : 10.765"

Height : 2.630"

For a '83-85 Mustang 5.0 the part number I found was a Fram one for the air filter CA324A. It has the following dimensions.

Inside Diameter : 11.190"

Outside Diameter : 12.656"

Height : 2.800"

I probably would be fine with the smaller '82 air filter but if I can find me a '83-'85 model I think it would be better for my Sniper and its 800+ cfm rating even though I read also that the dual snorkel mustang air cleaner assemblies flowed almost 600 cfm.

I have to put this out there for anyone following this build.

As you would know I have a MotoRad Fail-Safe thermostat in my build in 195*F rating. I saw a post on social media today about a guy with a 180*F version failing in the open position on him just by running at normal operating temperatures of between 200* and 210*. I decided to look online and saw a wealth of people from Toyota forums to dodge forums to jeep forums to bronco forums all talking about this thermostat and to not use it and what junk it is. So, disclaimer I will not be running this thermostat anymore and in fact have two on order from rock auto to use in its place.

As many know I have the GMB 125-1230P High Performance water pump that is high volume/pressure, states the impeller design increases pump pressure by up to 300% and maximum sized and contoured passages improve coolant velocity increasing flow from idle throughout the rpm range. Also states it reduces engine temperature by 15-30 degrees. I got it because it was the only aluminum water pump which is the right material for a '82 year model truck. It makes no mention on rock auto or summits site about needing a high flow thermostat and I contacted GMB last year with no reply on that question. I did make a post over on the other forum asking what other people think in this regard.

For now, I have a standard OE Motorcraft RT1139 192*F thermostat on order along with a Heavy Duty Stant 45359 Superstat 195*F. I also have a pack of ten Gates self-adhesive thermostat housing gaskets which I prefer on order as well. Part of me is torn on which thermostat to use as Ive always had great luck with the Superstat and never had a failure but on the other hand I do like the idea of running a OE Motorcraft as well. In the end it all depends on what people think and if they believe I should really be running a high dollar special order high flow thermostat to avoid cooling system issues.

[Rusty_S85]

I have to put this out there for anyone following this build.

As you would know I have a MotoRad Fail-Safe thermostat in my build in 195*F rating. I saw a post on social media today about a guy with a 180*F version failing in the open position on him just by running at normal operating temperatures of between 200* and 210*. I decided to look online and saw a wealth of people from Toyota forums to dodge forums to jeep forums to bronco forums all talking about this thermostat and to not use it and what junk it is. So, disclaimer I will not be running this thermostat anymore and in fact have two on order from rock auto to use in its place.

As many know I have the GMB 125-1230P High Performance water pump that is high volume/pressure, states the impeller design increases pump pressure by up to 300% and maximum sized and contoured passages improve coolant velocity increasing flow from idle throughout the rpm range. Also states it reduces engine temperature by 15-30 degrees. I got it because it was the only aluminum water pump which is the right material for a '82 year model truck. It makes no mention on rock auto or summits site about needing a high flow thermostat and I contacted GMB last year with no reply on that question. I did make a post over on the other forum asking what other people think in this regard.

For now, I have a standard OE Motorcraft RT1139 192*F thermostat on order along with a Heavy Duty Stant 45359 Superstat 195*F. I also have a pack of ten Gates self-adhesive thermostat housing gaskets which I prefer on order as well. Part of me is torn on which thermostat to use as Ive always had great luck with the Superstat and never had a failure but on the other hand I do like the idea of running a OE Motorcraft as well. In the end it all depends on what people think and if they believe I should really be running a high dollar special order high flow thermostat to avoid cooling system issues.

I have yet to receive a response from GMP on my email inquiring about if they recommend a high flow thermostat or not for their high flow GMP water pump that I have. I did get an email response from Summit and they informed me that they recommend a high flow thermostat for any high flow water pump.

So, I ordered a 330-195 RobertShaw high flow thermostat from Summit under the Flow Kooler brand. Stewart has the same 330-195 RobertShaw thermostat but wasn't about to pay nearly $5 more for the same thermostat with unstated modifications done by Stewart.

Below however is a photo comparing the OE Motorcraft 195* thermostat part number RT1139 on the left, the Stant SuperStat part number 45359 in the middle and the RobertShaw 330-195 on the right.

The Motorcraft thermostat has a jiggle valve vent to ease air bleeding of the cooling system. The Stant thermostat has no vent. The RobertShaw thermostat has a small V cut in the sealing lip to serve as a air bleed at the extreme edge of the thermostat. Have to make sure when you install this thermostat the bleed is at the 12 o'clock position.

The Motorcraft thermostat as well as the Stant thermostat both have roughly a 1" opening while the RobertShaw thermostat has roughly a 1 1/2" opening. So, I believe the GMP high flow water pump used in conjunction with the RobertShaw 195* thermostat along with the Cold-Case aluminum 2 row radiator and my 18" 7-bladed Flex-A-Lite flex fan all should work together nicely and should ensure my engine will hover around 195 - 200 degrees on a hot day. Many people that run the RobertShaw balanced thermostat like I have swear up and down that their mechanical temp gauges stay no more than 5 to 10 degrees away from the set point of the thermostat.

[Gary Lewis]

I have yet to receive a response from GMP on my email inquiring about if they recommend a high flow thermostat or not for their high flow GMP water pump that I have. I did get an email response from Summit and they informed me that they recommend a high flow thermostat for any high flow water pump.

So, I ordered a 330-195 RobertShaw high flow thermostat from Summit under the Flow Kooler brand. Stewart has the same 330-195 RobertShaw thermostat but wasn't about to pay nearly $5 more for the same thermostat with unstated modifications done by Stewart.

Below however is a photo comparing the OE Motorcraft 195* thermostat part number RT1139 on the left, the Stant SuperStat part number 45359 in the middle and the RobertShaw 330-195 on the right.

The Motorcraft thermostat has a jiggle valve vent to ease air bleeding of the cooling system. The Stant thermostat has no vent. The RobertShaw thermostat has a small V cut in the sealing lip to serve as a air bleed at the extreme edge of the thermostat. Have to make sure when you install this thermostat the bleed is at the 12 o'clock position.

The Motorcraft thermostat as well as the Stant thermostat both have roughly a 1" opening while the RobertShaw thermostat has roughly a 1 1/2" opening. So, I believe the GMP high flow water pump used in conjunction with the RobertShaw 195* thermostat along with the Cold-Case aluminum 2 row radiator and my 18" 7-bladed Flex-A-Lite flex fan all should work together nicely and should ensure my engine will hover around 195 - 200 degrees on a hot day. Many people that run the RobertShaw balanced thermostat like I have swear up and down that their mechanical temp gauges stay no more than 5 to 10 degrees away from the set point of the thermostat.

That's good to know! Thanks for the pics and the info.

[Rusty_S85]

That's good to know! Thanks for the pics and the info.

No problem, I know this would help lots of people make a decision. I was looking to see the differences myself and couldn't find much online in the way of dimensions.

On the flip side I did find a lot of back and forth among people online about too much flow being good/bad depending on what side of the fence you are on. Truth of the matter is the whole point of a thermostat is to regulate minimum temperature while majority of people arguing good/bad of too much flow think the thermostat is to regulate temperature as a whole. I see so many people that think 210 - 220 is overheating for a 195 thermostat as they believe the 195 is the set point for the thermostat to maintain which it isn't.

What benefits the RobertShaw design is the balance sleeve that makes it a very precise thermostat that maintains the minimum temperature better than other brands that are built upon the OE design.

Below is a few photos I found from my reading.

First is a RobertShaw style balanced thermostat taken apart.

What makes the RobertShaw a balanced Thermostat is the Poppet seals on the rim against the Flange/Pylon. The bottom of the FLange/Pylon prevents flow of coolant from with in the Poppet bypassing the seal. The coolant can flow through the holes in the bottom of the Poppet balancing coolant pressure on both sides of the poppet which is what moves to open and close the thermostat off. This equalized pressure ensures the thermostat will open properly at temperature and not be delayed or forced closed by water pressure.

Image below shows a RobertShaw thermostat in the open position.

Going to be fun pulling the engine out of the garage to take the storage bag off just long enough to pull the thermostat off and swap out the thermostat. I really cant do anything else unless I pull the passenger side header off and throw it in the box with the driverside to prep it for ceramic coating which ever way I go.

[Rusty_S85]

That's good to know! Thanks for the pics and the info.

No problem, I know this would help lots of people make a decision. I was looking to see the differences myself and couldn't find much online in the way of dimensions.

On the flip side I did find a lot of back and forth among people online about too much flow being good/bad depending on what side of the fence you are on. Truth of the matter is the whole point of a thermostat is to regulate minimum temperature while majority of people arguing good/bad of too much flow think the thermostat is to regulate temperature as a whole. I see so many people that think 210 - 220 is overheating for a 195 thermostat as they believe the 195 is the set point for the thermostat to maintain which it isn't.

What benefits the RobertShaw design is the balance sleeve that makes it a very precise thermostat that maintains the minimum temperature better than other brands that are built upon the OE design.

Below is a few photos I found from my reading.

First is a RobertShaw style balanced thermostat taken apart.

What makes the RobertShaw a balanced Thermostat is the Poppet seals on the rim against the Flange/Pylon. The bottom of the FLange/Pylon prevents flow of coolant from with in the Poppet bypassing the seal. The coolant can flow through the holes in the bottom of the Poppet balancing coolant pressure on both sides of the poppet which is what moves to open and close the thermostat off. This equalized pressure ensures the thermostat will open properly at temperature and not be delayed or forced closed by water pressure.

Image below shows a RobertShaw thermostat in the open position.

Going to be fun pulling the engine out of the garage to take the storage bag off just long enough to pull the thermostat off and swap out the thermostat. I really cant do anything else unless I pull the passenger side header off and throw it in the box with the driverside to prep it for ceramic coating which ever way I go.

Went ahead and pulled the Fail-Safe thermostat out of the engine and threw in the RobertShaw high flow thermostat which was a breeze to install with the Gates self-adhesive thermostat housing gasket over the Fel-Pro one I had that didn't have the adhesive on it.

I thought about pulling the driver side header off and box it up to prep it for shipping out for ceramic coating, but I still have yet to hear back on my question about the $100+ shipping charge which is way too much in my book for shipping shorty headers to Oklahoma City, Ok. I am seriously just contemplating painting them myself with header paint and say screw it on the ceramic coating. I haven't even gotten a reply from Cradin Industries on my last email last year asking if they could check my new headers over for small pin hole leaks when they remove the paint and fix any leaks if present.

I also have yet to get my D.U.I. distributor and I emailed them July 1 and they told me they hope to have the parts in 3 weeks but yet it's now August 20 and still nothing. Guess I am going to have to email them again and hope they are mature enough to not screw up the timing on the distributor for bugging them for the distributor I already paid for earlier this year.

Other than that, I can't do anything really. Everything is done outside of hunting down a air cleaner to replace the one I have which I am at the point of just buying an open element air cleaner and say screw the cold air ducting. Im also in need of purchasing crosslink SLX wire so I can start wiring up my auxiliary fuse/relay box as well as starting to buy up the Delphi connectors so I can start making the harnesses up. I also still need to pick up the stainless-steel fuel line from Inline Tube as well as the fuel tank from Spectre for an 85/86 truck and make the final decision if I pull the trigger on one of the super overpriced NOS 85/86 sending units or buy a replacement sender. Then it's just getting the Walbro 255lph in tank fuel pump and the Flowmaster stainless steel Y pipe and I will have everything I need to do the installation.

[Gary Lewis]

Went ahead and pulled the Fail-Safe thermostat out of the engine and threw in the RobertShaw high flow thermostat which was a breeze to install with the Gates self-adhesive thermostat housing gasket over the Fel-Pro one I had that didn't have the adhesive on it.

I thought about pulling the driver side header off and box it up to prep it for shipping out for ceramic coating, but I still have yet to hear back on my question about the $100+ shipping charge which is way too much in my book for shipping shorty headers to Oklahoma City, Ok. I am seriously just contemplating painting them myself with header paint and say screw it on the ceramic coating. I haven't even gotten a reply from Cradin Industries on my last email last year asking if they could check my new headers over for small pin hole leaks when they remove the paint and fix any leaks if present.

I also have yet to get my D.U.I. distributor and I emailed them July 1 and they told me they hope to have the parts in 3 weeks but yet it's now August 20 and still nothing. Guess I am going to have to email them again and hope they are mature enough to not screw up the timing on the distributor for bugging them for the distributor I already paid for earlier this year.

Other than that, I can't do anything really. Everything is done outside of hunting down a air cleaner to replace the one I have which I am at the point of just buying an open element air cleaner and say screw the cold air ducting. Im also in need of purchasing crosslink SLX wire so I can start wiring up my auxiliary fuse/relay box as well as starting to buy up the Delphi connectors so I can start making the harnesses up. I also still need to pick up the stainless-steel fuel line from Inline Tube as well as the fuel tank from Spectre for an 85/86 truck and make the final decision if I pull the trigger on one of the super overpriced NOS 85/86 sending units or buy a replacement sender. Then it's just getting the Walbro 255lph in tank fuel pump and the Flowmaster stainless steel Y pipe and I will have everything I need to do the installation.

Sounds like you are getting close. It has been a long journey, but it will have been worth it.

[Rusty_S85]

Sounds like you are getting close. It has been a long journey, but it will have been worth it.

I am, only thing I am a little wary about is the TPS connector on my sniper. The wire is pulled awfully taunt over the top of the connector and I am afraid that is a failure point just waiting to happen. I even went to holley's website and looked at their stock photo for the 4150 sniper stealth and they all show the same taunt wire which isnt a fluke on mine but apparently is common for this type.

Part of me wants to email Holley and ask them if this is normal cause the wire being that taunt I am concerned about the connector failing. On the other hand no one is talking about TPS connector failures but injector connectors coming unplugged. So maybe its not worth it to me to worry about that right now. I also could always depin the connector clip the wires and use a pigtail to make the wires a little longer if it did ever fail on me.

Aside from that, I got a email from Jet-Hot and their answer to the shipping question was that its a standard shipping fee applied to all headers. I guess they do that so it will cover round trip shipping for all but at the same time it screws those of us with smaller lighter headers shipping a shorter distance than thoses shipping larger heavier headers across the country.