Fuel Injection upgrade

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I use Wire Barn, for sure. The ability to tailor wire lengths is great.

I like your plan on the headlight and driving light grounds. Take them all into one and ground it at the battery and your wire lengths will be short and you'll have the fewest connections.

But on the roll bar, I'd take the ground to the frame below the bed. That will cut the run length in half.

Yep I might do that. After all I might have to drill a hole in my frame to mount my corvette fuel filter/regulator as I just dont know if there is a existing hole I can use. Plus the Corvette filter has a little folded over ear to fit into a locating hole to keep the filter from twisting when you tighten it into the frame and it has to be tight as the filter has a grounding strap from the filter to the mount.

The roll bar lights is a questionable thing cause I dont know if I will even do them. I know my goal is for a 1980s - 1990s look to my truck but the big thing that will determine if I use a roll bar or not is how it attaches in the bed. I have found photos of the bars in styleside trucks but nothing with a flare side. If the bars will sit directly on the wood then that would be great, I can place a rubber insulator between the wood and the bars and then run bolts through the wood with huge fender washers on the back side. Then for the wire I can run it down one of the tubes and out the bottom of the wood. But now if the bars sit atop the bed strips then I probably wont get a roll bar then cause I dont want to drill holes into the bed strip. The wood I can always pull those two to four boards out and replace them if I ever change my mind. But drilling the bed strips out I would have to get another whole set cause I dont think you can buy just one of the polished stainless steel strips.

This truck was the only photo I ever could find with a roll bar and an aftermarket one at that I believe. But never a photo of the bed itself and how it sits on the wood in the bed.

And the same truck it was posted on here with new KO2 tires like I have. This is basically the look I am going for on my truck just with the addition of a chrome grill guard which I am playing around with if I want to have it rechromed when I pull the bumpers for repaint or if I want to just blast it to bare metal and powder coat it a gloss black.

Im even contemplating the whole billboard style bug shield in a transparent blue to go with my truck and then get some lettering painted on it for that full on 80s/90s look.

As far as the wire goes, I will be looking into terminals this weekend, need to find some double width terminals for crimping two wires to and I really want to see if I can find gold plated terminals over the tin plated. I know tin plated terminals will be fine but they do degrade over time and gold plated terminals wont. I also dont know if I want to after assembly plug the back side of my box with silicone to weather proof every terminal point.

I like the look, but I'm not sure how I'd like it with a grille guard. And I'm pretty sure I wouldn't add the bug shield. I think it would be getting too busy. But that's just me.

On double terminals, I've see ones that take two wires but the wires come in from the opposite ends. That seems like it would make it awkward to use. I think I'd put two wires into one hole in the terminal and crimp it.

[Rusty_S85]

I like the look, but I'm not sure how I'd like it with a grille guard. And I'm pretty sure I wouldn't add the bug shield. I think it would be getting too busy. But that's just me.

On double terminals, I've see ones that take two wires but the wires come in from the opposite ends. That seems like it would make it awkward to use. I think I'd put two wires into one hole in the terminal and crimp it.

Big reason why I am trying to figure out what to do with the grill. I wanted to get the chrome grill but the grill guard is chrome so that has me thinking do I go back argent silver on the grill like OE, do I go with a black out grill, or do I go with the chrome grill and just have the grill guard powder coated a gloss black which I dont know how that will look bolted to a chrome bumper

On the double terminals I have seen those at the opposite ends or even as a Y, the ones I am looking at getting are like the ones included with the American Auto Wire harness kits, where your wire crimps at it is double width so you lay two wires side by side and crimp them together.

[Rusty_S85]

I like the look, but I'm not sure how I'd like it with a grille guard. And I'm pretty sure I wouldn't add the bug shield. I think it would be getting too busy. But that's just me.

On double terminals, I've see ones that take two wires but the wires come in from the opposite ends. That seems like it would make it awkward to use. I think I'd put two wires into one hole in the terminal and crimp it.

Big reason why I am trying to figure out what to do with the grill. I wanted to get the chrome grill but the grill guard is chrome so that has me thinking do I go back argent silver on the grill like OE, do I go with a black out grill, or do I go with the chrome grill and just have the grill guard powder coated a gloss black which I dont know how that will look bolted to a chrome bumper

On the double terminals I have seen those at the opposite ends or even as a Y, the ones I am looking at getting are like the ones included with the American Auto Wire harness kits, where your wire crimps at it is double width so you lay two wires side by side and crimp them together.

Some updates, I got back onto the engine for a bit. To start off I put another two quarts of the Driven 10w40 break in oil bringing the total to 5 quarts and primed the system again. It took about four tries at spinning the oil pump at 10 second intervals before the snap and pop of air went away from inside the engine. After the fourth try every time I spun and built up full oil pressure and held it (I dont know if pressure was dropping as I didnt hook the oil pressure gauge up again) there was no noises coming from inside the engine when stopping so the whole system has to be fully primed.

I also went back to my parts and illustration guide to source some more parts that I am looking for the engine. The following is the parts I added to my list last night.

E0TZ-2B257-A : Brake valve - Under 8500 GVW

D9ZZ-6A666-A : PCV Valve (*EV-98-B)

E1TZ-6853-A : PCV Hose (r/b E5TZ-6853-C)

E2TZ-6754-A : Oil Dipstick Tube

E3TZ-6750-L : Oil Dipstick Indicator (E3TE-CA)

E1TZ-9A474-D : 6-way Intake Manifold Vacuum fitting

E0TZ-18832-A : Radio Capacitor at Ignition Coil

C9PZ-6A664-A : PCV Hose 15/32" ID cut to fit

C9PZ-6A664-B : PCV Hose 5/8" ID cut to fit

D3PZ-6A664-A : PCV Hose 3/8" ID cut to fit

C9PZ-8620-GT : A/C Belt (1/2" width x 60 1/2" length)

C9PZ-8620-CM : P/S Belt (1/2" width x 52 1/2" length)

C9PZ-8620-GF : Alt Belt (15/32" width x 38 5/8" length)

I was able to locate and purchase a couple of the items last night.

I purchased the PCV valve under EV-98-B part number and I am leaning towards running the OE style PCV valve over the fixed orifice tube that everyone with snipers keep saying to run over the OE variable but every thing I keep reading on the fixed orifice has people citing they have saw a increased in oil consumption to the point of a quart in 1,500 - 2,000 miles being consumed and I do not want that.

The second item I purchsaed was the Radio Capacitor that bolts to the coil. I could not find the E0TZ-18832-A but when googling the number I found that the number was replaced with F6UZ-18832-AA which strangely enough is not listed in the parts and illustration guide which typically lists the replacement part number. The connector how ever looks the same as the cylinder capacitor so at the very least I can depin the connector from the housing and use the housing on my OE cylinder capacitor as the connector on my old one has the latch broken.

Right now I am currently looking at the C9PZ-6A664-B which is a 25ft roll of 5/8" PCV hose, I dont want to spend big bucks as this will be the hose that goes from my breather cap to the air cleaner pcv filter. I found some Gates brand hose for PCV that is 25ft length for $41 but I do not need 25ft length and the PCV itself is not 5/8" I believe it is 3/8" and I know I will need to get a 3/8" tee as I will be connecting the PCV to the 3/8" pcv/brake booster port on the back of the sniper. The other leg of the 3/8" tee will be connected to my charcoal canister purge which I will be confirming with my tuner if I will be fine to use it as I do not want to just leave it unconnected and then have to deal with raw fuel vapors.

I am also looking for a vacuum tree as I do not need all the ports that the OE one has, plus the port I will be using is vertical not at an angle so I will need something low profile to clear the sniper. Since it is going into cylinder 4 intake runner I do not want to run anything to the port that will lean cylinder 4 out. So with that known I know I need a 3/8" port for the brake booster which will not lean out cylinder 4. I also know I need 5/16" which will run to the vacuum tree on the firewall which then runs down to my vacuum modulator on my C6 transmission which also will not lean out cylinder 4, worse case it will suck in transmission fluid into cylinder 4 if the modulator fails. I know I do not want to add the purge for my charcoal canister to this port as it will make cylinder 4 rich so that 3/8" hose will need to be teed into the manifold port on the sniper to ensure it can enrich all cylinders. The sniper has a 3/8" manifold vacuum port and a 3/16" manifold vacuum port on the back side and only one 3/16" ported vacuum port on the front. The 3/16" ported vacuum port on the front will go to my distributor advance but I will also have to put a 3/16" tee in line as the purge solenoid on the charcoal canister is activated by a ported vacuum source to allow manifold vacuum to purge the canister. The only real question is do I source a vacuum temp switch and thread it into my thermostat housing so the charcoal canister only purges when the engine is hot. I hate to do that cause I might not use the charcoal canister if my tuner advises against it for causing a economy issue.

Im also looking at belts, trying to find some belts made by Goodyear that are like the old gatorbacks that Goodyear discontinued in V-belt form. I found some belts that I will have to look into such as they have a 17600 V-belt for my Dealer A/C but I am really trying to find a super grippy belt in 15/32" width that is around 38 5/8" length for my alternator which should fit the 3G alternator I eventually will be adding to this build since I will be using a OE sized pulley.

Wiring wise I have put that on the back burner for the time being but I do need to get back to my wiring and I do need to start assembling my fuse/relay box to get it ready for installation into the truck.

[Rusty_S85]

Some updates, I got back onto the engine for a bit. To start off I put another two quarts of the Driven 10w40 break in oil bringing the total to 5 quarts and primed the system again. It took about four tries at spinning the oil pump at 10 second intervals before the snap and pop of air went away from inside the engine. After the fourth try every time I spun and built up full oil pressure and held it (I dont know if pressure was dropping as I didnt hook the oil pressure gauge up again) there was no noises coming from inside the engine when stopping so the whole system has to be fully primed.

I also went back to my parts and illustration guide to source some more parts that I am looking for the engine. The following is the parts I added to my list last night.

E0TZ-2B257-A : Brake valve - Under 8500 GVW

D9ZZ-6A666-A : PCV Valve (*EV-98-B)

E1TZ-6853-A : PCV Hose (r/b E5TZ-6853-C)

E2TZ-6754-A : Oil Dipstick Tube

E3TZ-6750-L : Oil Dipstick Indicator (E3TE-CA)

E1TZ-9A474-D : 6-way Intake Manifold Vacuum fitting

E0TZ-18832-A : Radio Capacitor at Ignition Coil

C9PZ-6A664-A : PCV Hose 15/32" ID cut to fit

C9PZ-6A664-B : PCV Hose 5/8" ID cut to fit

D3PZ-6A664-A : PCV Hose 3/8" ID cut to fit

C9PZ-8620-GT : A/C Belt (1/2" width x 60 1/2" length)

C9PZ-8620-CM : P/S Belt (1/2" width x 52 1/2" length)

C9PZ-8620-GF : Alt Belt (15/32" width x 38 5/8" length)

I was able to locate and purchase a couple of the items last night.

I purchased the PCV valve under EV-98-B part number and I am leaning towards running the OE style PCV valve over the fixed orifice tube that everyone with snipers keep saying to run over the OE variable but every thing I keep reading on the fixed orifice has people citing they have saw a increased in oil consumption to the point of a quart in 1,500 - 2,000 miles being consumed and I do not want that.

The second item I purchsaed was the Radio Capacitor that bolts to the coil. I could not find the E0TZ-18832-A but when googling the number I found that the number was replaced with F6UZ-18832-AA which strangely enough is not listed in the parts and illustration guide which typically lists the replacement part number. The connector how ever looks the same as the cylinder capacitor so at the very least I can depin the connector from the housing and use the housing on my OE cylinder capacitor as the connector on my old one has the latch broken.

Right now I am currently looking at the C9PZ-6A664-B which is a 25ft roll of 5/8" PCV hose, I dont want to spend big bucks as this will be the hose that goes from my breather cap to the air cleaner pcv filter. I found some Gates brand hose for PCV that is 25ft length for $41 but I do not need 25ft length and the PCV itself is not 5/8" I believe it is 3/8" and I know I will need to get a 3/8" tee as I will be connecting the PCV to the 3/8" pcv/brake booster port on the back of the sniper. The other leg of the 3/8" tee will be connected to my charcoal canister purge which I will be confirming with my tuner if I will be fine to use it as I do not want to just leave it unconnected and then have to deal with raw fuel vapors.

I am also looking for a vacuum tree as I do not need all the ports that the OE one has, plus the port I will be using is vertical not at an angle so I will need something low profile to clear the sniper. Since it is going into cylinder 4 intake runner I do not want to run anything to the port that will lean cylinder 4 out. So with that known I know I need a 3/8" port for the brake booster which will not lean out cylinder 4. I also know I need 5/16" which will run to the vacuum tree on the firewall which then runs down to my vacuum modulator on my C6 transmission which also will not lean out cylinder 4, worse case it will suck in transmission fluid into cylinder 4 if the modulator fails. I know I do not want to add the purge for my charcoal canister to this port as it will make cylinder 4 rich so that 3/8" hose will need to be teed into the manifold port on the sniper to ensure it can enrich all cylinders. The sniper has a 3/8" manifold vacuum port and a 3/16" manifold vacuum port on the back side and only one 3/16" ported vacuum port on the front. The 3/16" ported vacuum port on the front will go to my distributor advance but I will also have to put a 3/16" tee in line as the purge solenoid on the charcoal canister is activated by a ported vacuum source to allow manifold vacuum to purge the canister. The only real question is do I source a vacuum temp switch and thread it into my thermostat housing so the charcoal canister only purges when the engine is hot. I hate to do that cause I might not use the charcoal canister if my tuner advises against it for causing a economy issue.

Im also looking at belts, trying to find some belts made by Goodyear that are like the old gatorbacks that Goodyear discontinued in V-belt form. I found some belts that I will have to look into such as they have a 17600 V-belt for my Dealer A/C but I am really trying to find a super grippy belt in 15/32" width that is around 38 5/8" length for my alternator which should fit the 3G alternator I eventually will be adding to this build since I will be using a OE sized pulley.

Wiring wise I have put that on the back burner for the time being but I do need to get back to my wiring and I do need to start assembling my fuse/relay box to get it ready for installation into the truck.

Looks like finding vacuum hoses is going to be a chore.

I been looking for 3/16" hose for about 7 hours now and I just cant find anything made out of rubber that is specifically for vacuum hose and is automotive rated. I found a Pico brand I was going to get but its only good to 180* F which is totally useless in automotive use especially considering with the 195*F thermostat I have installed will result in 200 - 212* F temperatures in the summer time. Only thing I been able to find that could be used is silicone and I really dont want to run silicone as I cant run silicone hose for the PCV system as its not oil rated.

Guess I will be checking at work tomorrow to see if we have any 3/16" vacuum hose that I can get a part number off the spool.

Other sizes is 3/8" for the PCV line and 5/8" for the breather to air cleaner which I have found Gate`s brand hose in those sizes rated for emission use.

[Rusty_S85]

Looks like finding vacuum hoses is going to be a chore.

I been looking for 3/16" hose for about 7 hours now and I just cant find anything made out of rubber that is specifically for vacuum hose and is automotive rated. I found a Pico brand I was going to get but its only good to 180* F which is totally useless in automotive use especially considering with the 195*F thermostat I have installed will result in 200 - 212* F temperatures in the summer time. Only thing I been able to find that could be used is silicone and I really dont want to run silicone as I cant run silicone hose for the PCV system as its not oil rated.

Guess I will be checking at work tomorrow to see if we have any 3/16" vacuum hose that I can get a part number off the spool.

Other sizes is 3/8" for the PCV line and 5/8" for the breather to air cleaner which I have found Gate`s brand hose in those sizes rated for emission use.

Talking with Jet-Hot now to see what I am looking at cost wise for ceramic coating my headers. Im looking at their Offroad 2000 coating which has a textured surface once applied, I have to see if the inside of the header would be coated as well. Cradin Industries informed me you dont want the inside ceramic coating but in reading other publications online everyone states you want ceramic coating on the inside as well otherwise the steel tubing can get heated up and cant shed the heat so the headers will fail from the heat no different than using header wrap.

This is a stock photo from Jet-Hot of their Off-Road 2000 showing the texture of the coating.

These are the colors I am looking at if I can get a color top coat on their smooth polished ceramic coating as I really dont want silver.

2057 Titanium

2069 Platinum

Satin Black

The satin black would be my last choice, after looking at the engine more today while routing vacuum lines and installing the PCV valve and cleaning up the coil bracket I realized while the black headers wont look bad I just cant get over all the black there is on the engine between the accessory brackets, the drive pullies and the ARP fasteners that arent painted over.

Photo with the NOS pcv valve installed as well as the chinese made silicone vacuum hoses in 3/8" and 3/16" sizes.

I also went back and emailed Davis Unified Ignition about their Ford Duraspark distributor just to make a comparison of what they are doing tune wise vs Parkland. One thing about the DUI unit is they are a OE distributor housing which means my NOS blue adapter will fit which it currently does not fit on the Cardone housing. The other thing is the DUI unit has a full length bronze bushing to stabilize it to 10,000 rpm which I dont need but hey a full length bronze bushing is better even if I never need it.

Im looking at $110 plus cost of return shipping not including cost to ship my Cardone unit to Parkland so I figure around $150 - $175 with shipping both ways. The DUI unit is priced at $289 and is tuned not just mechanically but their description states they tune the vacuum advance as well using the specs of the engine and vehicle you provide.

[Gary Lewis]

Talking with Jet-Hot now to see what I am looking at cost wise for ceramic coating my headers. Im looking at their Offroad 2000 coating which has a textured surface once applied, I have to see if the inside of the header would be coated as well. Cradin Industries informed me you dont want the inside ceramic coating but in reading other publications online everyone states you want ceramic coating on the inside as well otherwise the steel tubing can get heated up and cant shed the heat so the headers will fail from the heat no different than using header wrap.

This is a stock photo from Jet-Hot of their Off-Road 2000 showing the texture of the coating.

These are the colors I am looking at if I can get a color top coat on their smooth polished ceramic coating as I really dont want silver.

2057 Titanium

2069 Platinum

Satin Black

The satin black would be my last choice, after looking at the engine more today while routing vacuum lines and installing the PCV valve and cleaning up the coil bracket I realized while the black headers wont look bad I just cant get over all the black there is on the engine between the accessory brackets, the drive pullies and the ARP fasteners that arent painted over.

Photo with the NOS pcv valve installed as well as the chinese made silicone vacuum hoses in 3/8" and 3/16" sizes.

I also went back and emailed Davis Unified Ignition about their Ford Duraspark distributor just to make a comparison of what they are doing tune wise vs Parkland. One thing about the DUI unit is they are a OE distributor housing which means my NOS blue adapter will fit which it currently does not fit on the Cardone housing. The other thing is the DUI unit has a full length bronze bushing to stabilize it to 10,000 rpm which I dont need but hey a full length bronze bushing is better even if I never need it.

Im looking at $110 plus cost of return shipping not including cost to ship my Cardone unit to Parkland so I figure around $150 - $175 with shipping both ways. The DUI unit is priced at $289 and is tuned not just mechanically but their description states they tune the vacuum advance as well using the specs of the engine and vehicle you provide.

Jet Hot is what I have on Bug Blue’s headers, Off-road 2000 IIRC. And they do coat the inside.

[Rusty_S85]

Jet Hot is what I have on Bug Blue’s headers, Off-road 2000 IIRC. And they do coat the inside.

So the Off-Road 2000 has a coating on the inside as well? I figured with the rough texture of the Off-Road 2000 that they wouldnt coat the inside with it as it will disrupt exhaust flow and helping carbon to build up.

Thats interesting.

I am also talking with Davis Unified Ignition right now about their Distributors, I was in the process of updating my previous post when your post was made. I am curious how the DUI distributor tuning stands up to Parkland`s tuning. The pricing is not that much different once I figure in the round shipping cost, the recurve cost and the cost of my dorman distributor.

[Rusty_S85]

Jet Hot is what I have on Bug Blue’s headers, Off-road 2000 IIRC. And they do coat the inside.

So the Off-Road 2000 has a coating on the inside as well? I figured with the rough texture of the Off-Road 2000 that they wouldnt coat the inside with it as it will disrupt exhaust flow and helping carbon to build up.

Thats interesting.

I am also talking with Davis Unified Ignition right now about their Distributors, I was in the process of updating my previous post when your post was made. I am curious how the DUI distributor tuning stands up to Parkland`s tuning. The pricing is not that much different once I figure in the round shipping cost, the recurve cost and the cost of my dorman distributor.

Havent gotten a price quote yet from Jethot. I was informed by Lance from JetHot that the polished silver 1300 is their biggest heat reducer that will see a 55% - 65% reduction in heat and is ceramic coated inside and out. The 2000 and 2500 series Ceramic Coating is outside only with no interior ceramic coating so from this I am being told the Off Road 2000 is exterior only which I am not too crazy about. I can do a top coat color for the 1300 but I wont have any heat reduction cause apparently they do not use the polished silver/matte silver as a base for the top color coat.

So with this all taken into consideration to obtain the heat reduction that I am wanting it looks like I am forced to go with the polished silver which I really am not a fan of.

No email as of today from Davis Unified Ignition for clarification on how they do their calibration so I can compare to Parkland.

[Gary Lewis]

Havent gotten a price quote yet from Jethot. I was informed by Lance from JetHot that the polished silver 1300 is their biggest heat reducer that will see a 55% - 65% reduction in heat and is ceramic coated inside and out. The 2000 and 2500 series Ceramic Coating is outside only with no interior ceramic coating so from this I am being told the Off Road 2000 is exterior only which I am not too crazy about. I can do a top coat color for the 1300 but I wont have any heat reduction cause apparently they do not use the polished silver/matte silver as a base for the top color coat.

So with this all taken into consideration to obtain the heat reduction that I am wanting it looks like I am forced to go with the polished silver which I really am not a fan of.

No email as of today from Davis Unified Ignition for clarification on how they do their calibration so I can compare to Parkland.

I guess I was wrong. Perhaps I didn't get mine coated inside?

Went back to my To Jet Hot Or Not thread and found this:

HPC (Jet-Hot): So I called HPC and Roger answered "HPC Jet-Hot." Turns out they merged a few years ago. As previously reported I talked with Debi at their CA facility and got quotes from her. But today Roger, the plant manager, talked with me for 30 minutes. I explained my application and he told me about their products: 1300; 2000; & 2500, with those being the names as well as the temps they can withstand. Roger agreed with Debi that in my application the 1300 might melt. And while the 2500 has the best of the properties it is also essentially porcelain and can chip. So Roger said he thinks the 2000 is the one for me. And, if I come down to pick them up the price for coating them both inside and out is $450. Plus, he'll give me a tour.

[Rusty_S85]

I guess I was wrong. Perhaps I didn't get mine coated inside?

Went back to my To Jet Hot Or Not thread and found this:

HPC (Jet-Hot): So I called HPC and Roger answered "HPC Jet-Hot." Turns out they merged a few years ago. As previously reported I talked with Debi at their CA facility and got quotes from her. But today Roger, the plant manager, talked with me for 30 minutes. I explained my application and he told me about their products: 1300; 2000; & 2500, with those being the names as well as the temps they can withstand. Roger agreed with Debi that in my application the 1300 might melt. And while the 2500 has the best of the properties it is also essentially porcelain and can chip. So Roger said he thinks the 2000 is the one for me. And, if I come down to pick them up the price for coating them both inside and out is $450. Plus, he'll give me a tour.

Interesting, I wonder if HPC is actually Jet-Hot and not just using the name cause on Jet-Hots website they only have two locations, one in Oklahoma and one in North Carolina. I know I was reading lots of places talk about using Jet-Hot and even on Jet-Hot`s FAQ they state no one but them uses Jet-Hot.

Still there is conflicting information on their website. Lance told me they do not apply the color coat over the silver ceramic coating but yet on Jet-Hot`s website under coatings it states the following under color coat. "The most popular choices are Satin Black and Classic Polish, but there are more than 65 other color options to choose from. Color topcoats are applied over a ceramic-metallic base-coat to protect against corrosion" The whole metallic base coat makes it sounds like it is a color coat applied atop the silver ceramic coat.

Then there is the whole heat reduction, Lance is making it sound like the 2000 series Off road ceramic coating does not offer any heat reduction but yet their website under coatings states this about the 2000 series Off-Road coating "this coating is ideal for off-road cars, trucks, dune buggies, motorbikes, and Jeeps. Like Classic Polish, Jet-Hot’s Off-Road Polish lowers parts’ surrounding temperatures and prevents galvanic thermal oxidation, improving the performance of the entire exhaust system. This unparalleled coating is rated for severe conditions surviving conditions up to 2000°F" which clearly states it lowers parts surrounding temperatures but only the silver/polish ceramic coating the 1300 series has a FLIR showing the heat reduction and nothing on the 2000 series.

It really is making me wonder and I still have yet to get a price quote from them I said the only thing I need is a price quote for a pair of shorty headers with the longest tube being 19" from head flange to ball and socket flange. Three email replies and still no price quote. I am thinking about just going with the local guy at Cradin industries at least his website lists a break down of ceramic coating. Only thing is he doesnt do inside the tubes.