Fuel Injection upgrade

[Rusty_S85]

This should speed things up dramatically!

Hopefully, it all depends on how quick Ed at FlowTech Industries send the order over to Manton but I should have them before April which is when Manley told me would be the earliest they would get material in to start making pushrods.

If it works out like I am hoping then next weekend I will be bringing home from work a oil pressure tester threading it into my oil pressure sender extension and add a quart of motor oil to the crank case and then spin the oil pump over and prime the system and pump up the lifters.

[Gsmblue]

This should speed things up dramatically!

Just wanted to say, your fuel line work is great, I feel inspired by it and I will try my hand at something similar later this year.

Love following your project.

[Rusty_S85]

Just wanted to say, your fuel line work is great, I feel inspired by it and I will try my hand at something similar later this year.

Love following your project.

Thanks, big reason why I decided to start documenting this project, give people ideas for trying something different than going OE stock always. It also to help show the proper right way of doing some of these systems, such as the fuel tank that I am going to have fun cutting open and figuring out how I want to weld in some baffling so I can avoid using the OE dual pump setup Ford ran on the stock fuel injection systems. I also keep throwing around the idea of cutting one end off and adding 3" of material to the length or cut both ends off and adding 1 1/2" of material on both ends. If my math is right adding just 3" of material on the front of a 16 gallon fuel tank will increase the capacity to nearly 25 gallons. Splitting the difference between the shorter height front and taller height rear would be closer to 27 gallons. Id love to do this project but I am not sure if the extra weight would cause a problem with how the truck sits from side to side nor if it would cause a problem with the mounting straps in how they are spaced for the extra weight the tank would end up weighing.

Aside from that, my pushrods were shipped today and I should have them via FedEx by Thursday. Now the fun part of getting Jegs to cancel the order with Manley and refund my money. The customer service rep via Jegs chat informed me they emailed Manley to request a cancel and once Manley emails them back it will be 3 days till the money is back in my account. I informed the guy to call them not email them as they dont respond to emails, I grabbed screen shots of the entire chat between me and customer support cause I clearly stated to him I hate to have to bring PayPal in on this to get my money back on an order I am requesting to be canceled this friday. One way or another I am getting the order canceled by Friday either through jegs or through Paypal.

[Rusty_S85]

Just wanted to say, your fuel line work is great, I feel inspired by it and I will try my hand at something similar later this year.

Love following your project.

Thanks, big reason why I decided to start documenting this project, give people ideas for trying something different than going OE stock always. It also to help show the proper right way of doing some of these systems, such as the fuel tank that I am going to have fun cutting open and figuring out how I want to weld in some baffling so I can avoid using the OE dual pump setup Ford ran on the stock fuel injection systems. I also keep throwing around the idea of cutting one end off and adding 3" of material to the length or cut both ends off and adding 1 1/2" of material on both ends. If my math is right adding just 3" of material on the front of a 16 gallon fuel tank will increase the capacity to nearly 25 gallons. Splitting the difference between the shorter height front and taller height rear would be closer to 27 gallons. Id love to do this project but I am not sure if the extra weight would cause a problem with how the truck sits from side to side nor if it would cause a problem with the mounting straps in how they are spaced for the extra weight the tank would end up weighing.

Aside from that, my pushrods were shipped today and I should have them via FedEx by Thursday. Now the fun part of getting Jegs to cancel the order with Manley and refund my money. The customer service rep via Jegs chat informed me they emailed Manley to request a cancel and once Manley emails them back it will be 3 days till the money is back in my account. I informed the guy to call them not email them as they dont respond to emails, I grabbed screen shots of the entire chat between me and customer support cause I clearly stated to him I hate to have to bring PayPal in on this to get my money back on an order I am requesting to be canceled this friday. One way or another I am getting the order canceled by Friday either through jegs or through Paypal.

Pushrods arrived thursday and they were exactly what I needed. I spent almost 4hrs today adjusting the guide plates, cleaning and lubing the push rods and setting valve lash as well as testing oil pressure and checking for all pushrods oiling. Have some issues I am kind of concerned about but will have to wait and see when the engine is installed and running.

First off the pushrods are made by Manton is what I was told and they are 6.400" length which is just perfect with 1 turn on the poly locks (7/16-20 rocker arm studs 1/2 turn = 0.025" 1 turn = 0.050"). Only issue I had is with the oiling. I tried rotating the engine and tried spinning the oil pump in different positions but intake pushrod on cylinder #5 just was pouring oil out of it and filling the head forcing me to stop before I could see if the other pushrods would start oiling. I think they are trying to oil cause I do have oil collecting in the passenger side head but the AFR rails are so low I just couldnt sit there and spin the pump up. So I installed the valve covers and spun the pump up full speed and built full oil pressure up but after a moment oil pressure started to drop and I could hear snapping of air bubbles inside the engine. I would have thought 3 quarts would have been well over enough to spin the oil pump so I am praying this pump isnt a high volume pump when its supposed to be a standard volume pump with a high pressure bypass spring.

Needless to say my battery powered drill was able to get the oil pump to put out 70 psi before it started to drop down to 60 - 65 psi with the snaping of air bubbles telling me I was sucking air with the OE pickup. I think everything is good I just hope I dont have any lifter problems considering I have one pumping lots of oil out even at low speed and the others I just couldnt get nothing to come out of but a little. I hope its just a side effect of the engine not spinning at the same time.

First two sets of photos are showing the oil build up in the heads from spinning the oil pump. Driverside has one that is pumping so much it is filling the head up so quick it is flowing over the valve cover rail which kept me from sitting there and spinning the pump steadily to see what happens.

Next two photos are showing the valve covers installed with the Mildon oil separator breather cap complete with hose barb fitting for me to connect to the OE PVC filter in the air cleaner.

Final photo is of the zinc plated steel 3/8" line clamp with 3/8" mounting hole installed holding the engine fuel line to the timing cover.

Seeing the complete assembly I am back leaning towards having my headers ceramic coated black. I thought doing them in black would be too much black but I think it will be fine. Im also happy to see with 10w40 break in oil I was able to get 70 psi oil pressure with an battery powered drill, the engine should be capable of producing 70 psi oil pressure at idle when cold and hopefully it works like it does on my 351W in my '78 Mercury which idles around 75 psi cold and 55 psi hot with 10w30.

Only thing left now is to send the headers out for ceramic coating, send distributor out for recurving, and cleaning up some minor brackets here and there such as coil bracket and throttle cable bracket. Need to then get the 3/8" stainless fuel line for the frame, the swb metal fuel tank so I can weld in some baffles around the sump, a 85-86 sending unit assembly, a Walbro 255 lph electric fuel pump, the 18way fuse/relay block to wire everything up and the 3G alternator which I am still flip flopping between the 95A and 130A version. I do have the voltage regulator with the soft start function but not sure if the 130A one is backwards compatible with the 95A model. I think that would have me set for completing my conversion and installation.

[Gary Lewis]

Pushrods arrived thursday and they were exactly what I needed. I spent almost 4hrs today adjusting the guide plates, cleaning and lubing the push rods and setting valve lash as well as testing oil pressure and checking for all pushrods oiling. Have some issues I am kind of concerned about but will have to wait and see when the engine is installed and running.

First off the pushrods are made by Manton is what I was told and they are 6.400" length which is just perfect with 1 turn on the poly locks (7/16-20 rocker arm studs 1/2 turn = 0.025" 1 turn = 0.050"). Only issue I had is with the oiling. I tried rotating the engine and tried spinning the oil pump in different positions but intake pushrod on cylinder #5 just was pouring oil out of it and filling the head forcing me to stop before I could see if the other pushrods would start oiling. I think they are trying to oil cause I do have oil collecting in the passenger side head but the AFR rails are so low I just couldnt sit there and spin the pump up. So I installed the valve covers and spun the pump up full speed and built full oil pressure up but after a moment oil pressure started to drop and I could hear snapping of air bubbles inside the engine. I would have thought 3 quarts would have been well over enough to spin the oil pump so I am praying this pump isnt a high volume pump when its supposed to be a standard volume pump with a high pressure bypass spring.

Needless to say my battery powered drill was able to get the oil pump to put out 70 psi before it started to drop down to 60 - 65 psi with the snaping of air bubbles telling me I was sucking air with the OE pickup. I think everything is good I just hope I dont have any lifter problems considering I have one pumping lots of oil out even at low speed and the others I just couldnt get nothing to come out of but a little. I hope its just a side effect of the engine not spinning at the same time.

First two sets of photos are showing the oil build up in the heads from spinning the oil pump. Driverside has one that is pumping so much it is filling the head up so quick it is flowing over the valve cover rail which kept me from sitting there and spinning the pump steadily to see what happens.

Next two photos are showing the valve covers installed with the Mildon oil separator breather cap complete with hose barb fitting for me to connect to the OE PVC filter in the air cleaner.

Final photo is of the zinc plated steel 3/8" line clamp with 3/8" mounting hole installed holding the engine fuel line to the timing cover.

Seeing the complete assembly I am back leaning towards having my headers ceramic coated black. I thought doing them in black would be too much black but I think it will be fine. Im also happy to see with 10w40 break in oil I was able to get 70 psi oil pressure with an battery powered drill, the engine should be capable of producing 70 psi oil pressure at idle when cold and hopefully it works like it does on my 351W in my '78 Mercury which idles around 75 psi cold and 55 psi hot with 10w30.

Only thing left now is to send the headers out for ceramic coating, send distributor out for recurving, and cleaning up some minor brackets here and there such as coil bracket and throttle cable bracket. Need to then get the 3/8" stainless fuel line for the frame, the swb metal fuel tank so I can weld in some baffles around the sump, a 85-86 sending unit assembly, a Walbro 255 lph electric fuel pump, the 18way fuse/relay block to wire everything up and the 3G alternator which I am still flip flopping between the 95A and 130A version. I do have the voltage regulator with the soft start function but not sure if the 130A one is backwards compatible with the 95A model. I think that would have me set for completing my conversion and installation.

I think your oiling problems are due to the engine not spinning. But the oil pressure looks good.

Man, this has been a long time coming, but you are getting there.

[Rusty_S85]

I think your oiling problems are due to the engine not spinning. But the oil pressure looks good.

Man, this has been a long time coming, but you are getting there.

I think it is a combination of lack of spinning and the fact I only poured 3 quarts of oil in. I still have to install the engine and I dont know if I want all the extra weight of 6 quarts worth of oil. I know the FL1A filter will hold right around 1 quart once it is pressurized. Might be why cylinder 5 intake is oiling so good is its right above the oil passage for the oil pump into the block. Might be losing oil and sucking air cause I know even with 3 quarts added the intake pushrod for cylinder 5 has good oil volume but there is also a lot of air bubbles as well. I am just glad I am going to have good oil pressure finally, with 70 psi achieved with my drill then my OE oil pressure gauge should be on the high side of normal vs with my current engine being on N and O of normal.

It has been a long time, I didnt realize I started collecting these parts way back in 2018 to do this build it doesnt feel like that long but I am in the final stretch for the engine stage. Once I get the engine stage done I hope to be able to drive the truck in the mean time till I can get my credit card and paypal credit paid off then I will order a custom built C6 transmission and a Hughe XTM tow converter to swap my old worn out C6 with. Then all that is left for me is to rebuild my rear end with a Currie tru trak 3.25:1 9" third member to complete the package.

From there its just body work/paint, wood bed, and interior which I dont know on the interior, part of me wants to gut the whole interior pull the dash and everything out and start with a empty interior then rebuild with new firewall pad and a new rubber floor mat. But I dread doing something like that with how broken up parts of my plastic dash is plus the dealer installed AC unit mounts to the dash itself not the firewall.

[Rusty_S85]

I think your oiling problems are due to the engine not spinning. But the oil pressure looks good.

Man, this has been a long time coming, but you are getting there.

I think it is a combination of lack of spinning and the fact I only poured 3 quarts of oil in. I still have to install the engine and I dont know if I want all the extra weight of 6 quarts worth of oil. I know the FL1A filter will hold right around 1 quart once it is pressurized. Might be why cylinder 5 intake is oiling so good is its right above the oil passage for the oil pump into the block. Might be losing oil and sucking air cause I know even with 3 quarts added the intake pushrod for cylinder 5 has good oil volume but there is also a lot of air bubbles as well. I am just glad I am going to have good oil pressure finally, with 70 psi achieved with my drill then my OE oil pressure gauge should be on the high side of normal vs with my current engine being on N and O of normal.

It has been a long time, I didnt realize I started collecting these parts way back in 2018 to do this build it doesnt feel like that long but I am in the final stretch for the engine stage. Once I get the engine stage done I hope to be able to drive the truck in the mean time till I can get my credit card and paypal credit paid off then I will order a custom built C6 transmission and a Hughe XTM tow converter to swap my old worn out C6 with. Then all that is left for me is to rebuild my rear end with a Currie tru trak 3.25:1 9" third member to complete the package.

From there its just body work/paint, wood bed, and interior which I dont know on the interior, part of me wants to gut the whole interior pull the dash and everything out and start with a empty interior then rebuild with new firewall pad and a new rubber floor mat. But I dread doing something like that with how broken up parts of my plastic dash is plus the dealer installed AC unit mounts to the dash itself not the firewall.

Got a little ahead of myself, I went from engine to exterior/interior today. I found last night that Green Sales had some parts I was looking at including a NOS oil dipstick tube which sadly was out of stock now. But he did have two of the other items I called about, one was the NOS black with silver burst center seat belt assembly which he let go for $60 that I snagged up so now all I need is to source a NOS passengerside seat belt assembly and I will have all three new. The other item I snagged was the complete passengerside pinstrip kit for the Type 6 pinstrip for my '82 in the correct dark/medium blue for $150. My plan is not to install it but to use it as a pattern for the eventual paintshop trip so they can mask the truck off properly and color match the paint to the NOS pinstriping to spray it on both sides. The tail gate wont be hard its just a simple box. The only other hard part is going to be the Type 1 cab roof pinstriping for the two tone roof. That part number sadly is not bringing up any hits but I will keep searching. I couldnt let that deal go as it was the first pinstriping kit I found for my truck that is supposed to be specifically for mine in the correct color.

Aside from that, I am seriously tempted to add the final 3 quarts of oil to my 302 on the stand and try pressure testing the system again to see if I keep getting air bubbles with in the engine.

[Gary Lewis]

Got a little ahead of myself, I went from engine to exterior/interior today. I found last night that Green Sales had some parts I was looking at including a NOS oil dipstick tube which sadly was out of stock now. But he did have two of the other items I called about, one was the NOS black with silver burst center seat belt assembly which he let go for $60 that I snagged up so now all I need is to source a NOS passengerside seat belt assembly and I will have all three new. The other item I snagged was the complete passengerside pinstrip kit for the Type 6 pinstrip for my '82 in the correct dark/medium blue for $150. My plan is not to install it but to use it as a pattern for the eventual paintshop trip so they can mask the truck off properly and color match the paint to the NOS pinstriping to spray it on both sides. The tail gate wont be hard its just a simple box. The only other hard part is going to be the Type 1 cab roof pinstriping for the two tone roof. That part number sadly is not bringing up any hits but I will keep searching. I couldnt let that deal go as it was the first pinstriping kit I found for my truck that is supposed to be specifically for mine in the correct color.

Aside from that, I am seriously tempted to add the final 3 quarts of oil to my 302 on the stand and try pressure testing the system again to see if I keep getting air bubbles with in the engine.

Good job on finding those things. You have to keep searching at all times, and you never know when something will pop up.

As for the oil, I don't think you'll notice the weight of three more quarts. I'd put it in and test now while it is easier to correct any problems you might find.

[Rusty_S85]

Good job on finding those things. You have to keep searching at all times, and you never know when something will pop up.

As for the oil, I don't think you'll notice the weight of three more quarts. I'd put it in and test now while it is easier to correct any problems you might find.

Thats what I am thinking. I can always put some ARP thread sealer in place of the teflon on the NOS motorcraft sender since I already screwed it in place. I can also pull the valve covers and make sure all pushrods are oiling as well properly at risk of making a mess.

On the parts I made a step back today. Green Sales contacted me this morning to inform me that they couldnt locate the center seat belt I ordered but they were able to locate a red one in the ware house if I absolutely needed the seat belt. I told him I didnt need it mine are functional I just wanted to replace them all with new when I restore the interior.

So as of now I am only getting the passenger side pinstripe kit so my order is a good $60 cheaper which is always good.

[Rusty_S85]

Good job on finding those things. You have to keep searching at all times, and you never know when something will pop up.

As for the oil, I don't think you'll notice the weight of three more quarts. I'd put it in and test now while it is easier to correct any problems you might find.

Thats what I am thinking. I can always put some ARP thread sealer in place of the teflon on the NOS motorcraft sender since I already screwed it in place. I can also pull the valve covers and make sure all pushrods are oiling as well properly at risk of making a mess.

On the parts I made a step back today. Green Sales contacted me this morning to inform me that they couldnt locate the center seat belt I ordered but they were able to locate a red one in the ware house if I absolutely needed the seat belt. I told him I didnt need it mine are functional I just wanted to replace them all with new when I restore the interior.

So as of now I am only getting the passenger side pinstripe kit so my order is a good $60 cheaper which is always good.

Couldnt do anything today, was cold and raining and wasnt going to go out in it.

I did how ever get the auxiliary fuse/relay box that I ordered, will post some photos of it tomorrow. I didnt get any photos taken today as I have spent half a day figuring out what I need to get wire wise and so far below is what I have currently and need to get.

Currently I have in my stash the following wire from Wiring Depot

SXL Cross-Linked Wire, 16 AWG, 20ft cut, Blue

SXL Cross-Linked Wire, 16 AWG, 20ft cut, Brown

SXL Cross-Linked Wire, 16 AWG, 20ft cut, Green

SXL Cross-Linked Wire, 16 AWG, 20ft cut, Black

SXL Cross-Linked Wire, 14 AWG, 12ft Cut, Orange

SXL Cross-Linked Wire, 20 AWG, 40ft cut, Green

From my initial diagram I have colors listed but they are not the colors I decided on when I started buying this wire. With that said below is what I have listed for the non sniper related wiring circuits.

Low Beam Trigger/Power : 18Ga/14Ga Blue

High Beam Trigger/Power : 18Ga/14Ga Yellow

Headlight Ground : 18Ga Black

Headlight Power : 14Ga White

Driving Light Power : 12Ga Green

I think I decided to run 16 AWG for the trigger/power as I realized for the length of wire I would be using 16 AWG would be overkill for the relay trigger circuit as well as the power side to the headlights. I settled on 16 AWG for the power for the pair of 100w driving lights and the white wire which I think I will just use red wire, its supposed to be the wire inside the fuse box from the fuse to the battery side of the relay.

The brown, orange and 20 AWG green I am unsure what I got them for. The orange wire I have marked for the power wire for the CB Amp and radio and I believe I got the 16 AWG brown for the choke wire as my initial schematics has me using a relay triggered by the alternator stator to send 12V battery power to the 12v choke on the Summit 600 cfm carb which I wont be using anymore so I will have to see if I can repurpose the 16 AWG brown wire I currently have for another circuit on my build.

Below pertains to the sniper wiring.

The 7 pin connector breaks down as follows.

Pin E, 12G, Red : 12V Battery (+)

Pin G, 12G, Black : 12V Battery (-)

Pin C, 12G, Blue : 12V Fuel Pump (+)

Pin A, 20G, Violet : Engine Speed Signal Input (+)

Pin B, 20G, Dark Green : Engine Speed Signal (-)

Pin D, 20G, Yellow : Coil (-) Input

Pin F, 20G, Pink : Switched Ignition (+12v)

I am looking at sourcing the following wires

122XF : SXL Cross-Linked, 12 AWG Red

120XF : SXL Cross-Linked, 12 AWG Black

126XF : SXL Cross-Linked, 12 AWG Blue

197XF : SXL Cross-Linked, 20 AWG Yellow

193XF : SXL Cross-Linked, 20 AWG Pink

For the 10 pin connector, it breaks down as follows

Pin A, 20G, Orange : Input #1 (-) A/C Triggered Relay

Pin B, 20G, Yellow : Input #2 (-) Programmable Ground Input

Pin C, 20G, Light Blue : Output #1 (-) Fan #1 Relay trigger

Pin D, 20G, Light Green : Output #2 (-) Fan #2 Relay Trigger

Pin E, 20G, Grey, Output #6 (-) A/C Shutdown Relay Trigger

Pin F, 20G, White, Points Output CD or Coil Driver trigger

Pin G, 20G, Dark Brown, Tach Output

Pin H, 20G, Tan, Digital Gauge Output

I am looking at sourcing the following wires for this.

191XF : SXL Cross-Linked, 20 AWG Orange

190XF : SXL Cross-Linked, 20 AWG Black (replacement for the Holley Grey color)

I really dont want to have duplicate colors but it appears I will have to run duplicate colors but thankfully they will be in different gauges so it still will allow me easy diagnosis down the road long as I keep a record of the wiring for wire colors and gauges.

Below is the relay box diagram I created over the last couple years with changes.

My plan is to have leads coming out of the box end around 1 to 2 feet in a metri-pack connector. This will allow me to unplug the fuse/relay box for removal so I can service box at the work bench. It also will allow me to make changes if I decide to pull some fuses out and add another relay.

It also will allow me to wire up relay 7 and relay 8 which will be for four auxiliary lights I might add down the road if I decide to add a roll bar on the truck in the bed. I can wire the relays up as well as the DPDT toggle and just simply leave those terminals plugged on the truck side of the harness connector. That way I can add those circuits on the truck itself down the road.

For those that dont know what I am trying to do with the DPDT toggle switch is to provide the ability to link the roll bar lights to the driving light circuit. The switch I found is a On-Off-On and when in the Off position the roll bar lights will not be activated through the driving light relay. In Position 1 On setting it will allow the driving light relay to supply power to just Relay 7. In Position 2 On setting it will allow the driving light relay to supply power to both Relay 7 and Relay 8. Purpose of this is I am thinking about running two spot lights and two flood lights if I do install a roll bar. The spot lights will be in Position 1 which will help supplement my driving light for dark back country roads, the spot lights will be set to shine to the side of the road to illuminate any possible deer that may get missed by my regular driving lights which is triggered by my high beam circuit. Position 2 will throw on all the roll bar lights spot as well as flood and this Position 2 setting would be strictly off road only. I dont think I would want to use floods on the highway as many of the dark country roads Ive driven on has houses close to the road and the floods would be throwing light into their houses which I really dont want to do.

If I think I will be possibly switching the DPDT toggle on the fly I will switch the circuit to the ground side of Relay 7 and 8 since there will be sparking inside the switch if switched while powered up. Relay 7 and 8 through the DPDT Toggle wouldnt receive power unless the high beam is switched on and it would be more of a set it and forget it type circuit.

Relay 9 I wish I could figure out a way to remove that redundant A/C compressor relay since its a relay going through to another relay. But Relay 4 is the AC cut out relay and there is no way to take my AC switch and have it trigger a relay instead of triggering the clutch itself. Relay 4 is wired up on the normally closed 87a pin till the relay is activated so it might as well not even be there in majority of the driving conditions.

Relay 1 and 2 I wish I could consolidate them into a single relay but I just cannot figure out a way to have low beam/high beam controlled by one relay. I thought about using the center 87a pin for low beam and have the high beam trigger the relay to switch to high but there would be no way to turn the low beam off as battery voltage would flow right through 87a pin constantly.

I also am contemplating the fuses as well. Im thinking about isolating the fuses into two different circuits, the box has three locations for Mini ANL fuses, I could use two of these locations to fuse the main power wire to the two groupings of fuses just as a precaution so I dont lose everything if one fuse decides to go out. Im thinking one Mini ANL fuse to cover the fuses for important circuits, Headlight circuit and EFI circuit and then another mini ANL fuse to cover the fuses for minor circuits such as CB, CB amp, AC Compressor. But I am not sure, I wont start assembling the circuits in the box just yet now that I have the box in hand I will be playing around with it in my head to try and figure out how I want to do it. I do like how ever having all relay ground leg of the trigger circuit being linked together and then run out as one single ground. Will clean up having a bunch of ground wires coming out of the box for each relay. Same with the power, my idea is to bring power in to one Mini ANL fuse and then if I decide to run a second Mini ANL fuse to split the circuits to two main fuses I will run a jumper wire from before the first Mini ANL fuse to the second Mini ANL fuse, this way both circuits are still protected but with two fuses it allows one circuit to fail from drawing too much amp or a short but wont take out everything.