Fuel Injection upgrade

[Gary Lewis]

Had to make some changes to my routing of my hardlines to clear the OE coil mount.

What I ended up doing is using the sniper 4150 stealth supplied tee that has one female -6 and two male -6 to make the connection by the coil as I just could not make a tight enough bend to fit around the coil. I like how it came out but a new problem arose for the rear, I just can't get the fit right so I have two choices. One choice is to attempt to bend a solid hardline from the forward tee to the rear tee without the inline fuel pressure port. If I go this route I will mount the fuel pressure port on the hardline on the frame after the fuel filter/regulator assembly. The other route is to use a male -6 elbow to connect at the fuel pressure port and either try to tweak a hardline to fit or use a -6 male to -6 female fitting at 45* to allow for a straight hook up.

I will be buying those fittings and trying out what my choices are but I will also be purchasing -6 male to 3/8" hose barb to make my rubber flex connection from the engine to the frame. I also need to find and purchase some 3/8" hardline clamps that has a 3/8" bolt hole as I thought what I had from my stash from left over parts at work would work but the hole wasn't large enough and attempting to drill the hole out twisted and destroyed the clamp.

I also am looking at one of two things either a air filter adapter to fit the larger CFI air cleaner base to a standard 4V carb or a simple 1/8" (or smallest size available) spacer to just raise the OE air cleaner up. Looking at how high the air cleaner is in the photos below above stock without this spacer/adapter I don't know if I could run the larger bronco air cleaner without hitting the firewall. I thought about just running like the sniper air filter that has the notches to fit the 4150 stealth which would allow the filter to fit lower but I don't like the thought of the open element getting blasted with hot air from the cooling fan when it could be pulling air from in front of the core support like OE.

Photo of the tee I ended up using to clear the OE coil and coil mount.

Photo of the driver side showing the routing of the hardline and the AN flared end where the rubber hose flex joint will attach.

Photo of the attachment at the tee by the distributor.

Photo of the fuel line around the back of the distributor, I gave it enough room to allow the clip for the cap to easily be accessed to not just remove the cap but to clip the cap back down in place.

Next two photos show the close up with the pressure port tee installed but I have a -6 AN male to female pressure port that I didnt switch to yet but will be the fitting I use. These photos show just how hard it is for me to make a 3/8" hardline as I cant bend the lines tight enough or I cant move the pressure port more forward as I cant flare the hardline with the sleeve installed due to the 90* bend. Only way I could attempt to get around that is to bend a new hardline and measure cut and flare before I do the bend and then make the bend but that may pose a problem with making a 90* bend with the sleeve.

And a photo of my OE air cleaner sitting atop the 4150 stealth. Can see just how high the air cleaner sits compared to OE and I still need to raise it up a bit for clearance unless I can find an adapter that will allow me to fit the CFI air cleaner I have that is NOS in the box. Still this extra height has me concerned about fitment on the truck as the truck does have this over hang for the cowl and if too high the air cleaner will hit. If this ends up happening I will just have to get a generic open element air cleaner or spend big money for a drop base snorkel aftermarket assembly and try to fit it to the truck.

It is looking very good, but I see your dilemma on the fuel line routing. I think I'd put the gauge down on the frame to make it easy, or put it in the run ahead of the distributor. But given the options you mentioned I'll bet you will get it worked out to put it up above.

As for the air cleaner, the larger HO unit is thinner than the smaller aluminum unit. On Big Blue even with a 1" spacer between the carb and that cleaner, and on top of the tall 460, it still fits under the overhang on the cowl. You do have to snake it in there, but it fits.

[85lebaront2]

Had to make some changes to my routing of my hardlines to clear the OE coil mount.

What I ended up doing is using the sniper 4150 stealth supplied tee that has one female -6 and two male -6 to make the connection by the coil as I just could not make a tight enough bend to fit around the coil. I like how it came out but a new problem arose for the rear, I just can't get the fit right so I have two choices. One choice is to attempt to bend a solid hardline from the forward tee to the rear tee without the inline fuel pressure port. If I go this route I will mount the fuel pressure port on the hardline on the frame after the fuel filter/regulator assembly. The other route is to use a male -6 elbow to connect at the fuel pressure port and either try to tweak a hardline to fit or use a -6 male to -6 female fitting at 45* to allow for a straight hook up.

I will be buying those fittings and trying out what my choices are but I will also be purchasing -6 male to 3/8" hose barb to make my rubber flex connection from the engine to the frame. I also need to find and purchase some 3/8" hardline clamps that has a 3/8" bolt hole as I thought what I had from my stash from left over parts at work would work but the hole wasn't large enough and attempting to drill the hole out twisted and destroyed the clamp.

I also am looking at one of two things either a air filter adapter to fit the larger CFI air cleaner base to a standard 4V carb or a simple 1/8" (or smallest size available) spacer to just raise the OE air cleaner up. Looking at how high the air cleaner is in the photos below above stock without this spacer/adapter I don't know if I could run the larger bronco air cleaner without hitting the firewall. I thought about just running like the sniper air filter that has the notches to fit the 4150 stealth which would allow the filter to fit lower but I don't like the thought of the open element getting blasted with hot air from the cooling fan when it could be pulling air from in front of the core support like OE.

Photo of the tee I ended up using to clear the OE coil and coil mount.

Photo of the driver side showing the routing of the hardline and the AN flared end where the rubber hose flex joint will attach.

Photo of the attachment at the tee by the distributor.

Photo of the fuel line around the back of the distributor, I gave it enough room to allow the clip for the cap to easily be accessed to not just remove the cap but to clip the cap back down in place.

Next two photos show the close up with the pressure port tee installed but I have a -6 AN male to female pressure port that I didnt switch to yet but will be the fitting I use. These photos show just how hard it is for me to make a 3/8" hardline as I cant bend the lines tight enough or I cant move the pressure port more forward as I cant flare the hardline with the sleeve installed due to the 90* bend. Only way I could attempt to get around that is to bend a new hardline and measure cut and flare before I do the bend and then make the bend but that may pose a problem with making a 90* bend with the sleeve.

And a photo of my OE air cleaner sitting atop the 4150 stealth. Can see just how high the air cleaner sits compared to OE and I still need to raise it up a bit for clearance unless I can find an adapter that will allow me to fit the CFI air cleaner I have that is NOS in the box. Still this extra height has me concerned about fitment on the truck as the truck does have this over hang for the cowl and if too high the air cleaner will hit. If this ends up happening I will just have to get a generic open element air cleaner or spend big money for a drop base snorkel aftermarket assembly and try to fit it to the truck.

A suggestion on the air cleaner that may sound like sacrilege, when I had my Shelby, I was trying to find an air cleaner that would allow me to use the hood scoop as the inlet source. I found a GM one, I believe it was from a Holley equipt 396 or 427 Chevy. The bottom dropped down below the carburetor top, but was sculpted so it had clearance for the cathedral bowls. It used a 14" element, had a lower bowl that was probably 16 - 18" OD so the ram air adapter to seal against the hood slipped over it. I made a new seal for it (it was just a foam strip high enough to reach) and ran it until I put the dual Holley system on.

[Rusty_S85]

It is looking very good, but I see your dilemma on the fuel line routing. I think I'd put the gauge down on the frame to make it easy, or put it in the run ahead of the distributor. But given the options you mentioned I'll bet you will get it worked out to put it up above.

As for the air cleaner, the larger HO unit is thinner than the smaller aluminum unit. On Big Blue even with a 1" spacer between the carb and that cleaner, and on top of the tall 460, it still fits under the overhang on the cowl. You do have to snake it in there, but it fits.

Thanks, I might end up putting it on the frame in the end I am not messing with it today but I am going to order the following.

x1 PICO Wiring 7515PT Rubber Insulated Clamps zinc plated steel 3/8" line with a 3/8" mounting hole set of 12

x1 Summit Racing 220635B -6 AN male 90* union

x1 Vibrant Performance 10772 -6 AN male to female 45* Union

x2 Vibrant Performance 11207 -6 AN Male to 3/8" Hose barb

The 11207 will be used at the hardline under (at least I hope its under) the power steering pump to make a flex joint via EFI rated hose to the frame 3/8" -6 AN flared line.

The 220635B is what I am thinking of using to make the connection at the fuel gauge port fitting to make a short turn.

The 10772 I am thinking of attaching to the -10 AN straight cut O ring to -6 AN fitting in the throttle body so I dont have to put a slight jog in the hardline but I fear it might make the line so short it cant be flared on both ends.

Honestly I am seriously contemplating next weekend just doing the hardline again but start at the throttle body end first then make the jog around the coil as I the two attempts I made without the gauge port was from the jog around the coil back. I ran into a problem of not getting the hardline square to the AN fitting in the throttle body which with AN it needs to be square.

My end game was always to get Dakota Digital to make the RTX Retro look cluster for our trucks and I wanted to replace the mechanical fuel pressure gauge with a fuel pressure sensor so I can use a add on module to the Dakota Digital RTX cluster so I can input a warning to flash on the information center when fuel pressure drops below 50-55 psi or goes above 65-70 psi. I can also get my transmission temperature read out as well without having to mount a under dash gauge and can set a warning for it as well. I also would have to get the compass and ambient air temp module as well.

Ive posted the photos before some where but this is the 73-79 truck cluster that Dakota Digital offers in the RTX Retro just to show how OE stock they appear.

Key off with door open, the mechanical look digital odometer turns on when door opens

Key on the cluster can light up in day light or remain dark till you turn the headlights on and you have multiple colors avaliable on each unit. Also the normal range box lights up with hash marks with actual read out for the gauges.

So in this case the mount being on the frame is no major loss for me as it will eventually be replaced with an electronic pressure sensor that wont require me to crawl under the truck to check the pressure.

A suggestion on the air cleaner that may sound like sacrilege, when I had my Shelby, I was trying to find an air cleaner that would allow me to use the hood scoop as the inlet source. I found a GM one, I believe it was from a Holley equipt 396 or 427 Chevy. The bottom dropped down below the carburetor top, but was sculpted so it had clearance for the cathedral bowls. It used a 14" element, had a lower bowl that was probably 16 - 18" OD so the ram air adapter to seal against the hood slipped over it. I made a new seal for it (it was just a foam strip high enough to reach) and ran it until I put the dual Holley system on.

Interesting, I was looking at the Goodmark GM air cleaners. I know the snorkel wont be right to fit the OE duct work but I was thinking if the diameter was the same I could in theory cut the snorkel off and graft the Ford one on. I could even turn the assembly around to put the distributor indentation to the front plate in the original opening and put the snorkel in the proper passenger side location.

These were the Goodmark ones I was looking at but they are listed as for cowl induction hoods.

Goodmark 4021230704S dual snorkel, pricy at $309.99

Goodmark 4020230694SX single snorkel, still kind of pricy at $232.99

I also looked at the Spectre Performance aftermarket air box but its 14" od with a 3" tall filter and a 4" round snorkel which I dont know if could be made to work with the OE plastic duct. Its also priced a bit higher than the single snorkel GM one at $264.99 but lots of people gave it one star review that the filter is so close to the housing that it leaves 90% of the filter unused.

As far as modifying goes I seriously thought about seeing if I could cut up a used air cleaner and graft another bottom into the center to get more of a drop on the air cleaner housing but I have no idea where to start.

If the Bronco 5.8 HO filter will fit I may consider just sourcing one of those and run that till I figure out how to get it to sit lower. If I use the air filter for a 302 how ever like what I have I will have to run a spacer and the smallest spacer is 1/2". The simulated float adjustment nuts on the 4150 is hitting mine right where the filter sits and I really cant ding it without it resulting in distorting the filter.

 

[Rusty_S85]

It is looking very good, but I see your dilemma on the fuel line routing. I think I'd put the gauge down on the frame to make it easy, or put it in the run ahead of the distributor. But given the options you mentioned I'll bet you will get it worked out to put it up above.

As for the air cleaner, the larger HO unit is thinner than the smaller aluminum unit. On Big Blue even with a 1" spacer between the carb and that cleaner, and on top of the tall 460, it still fits under the overhang on the cowl. You do have to snake it in there, but it fits.

Thanks, I might end up putting it on the frame in the end I am not messing with it today but I am going to order the following.

x1 PICO Wiring 7515PT Rubber Insulated Clamps zinc plated steel 3/8" line with a 3/8" mounting hole set of 12

x1 Summit Racing 220635B -6 AN male 90* union

x1 Vibrant Performance 10772 -6 AN male to female 45* Union

x2 Vibrant Performance 11207 -6 AN Male to 3/8" Hose barb

The 11207 will be used at the hardline under (at least I hope its under) the power steering pump to make a flex joint via EFI rated hose to the frame 3/8" -6 AN flared line.

The 220635B is what I am thinking of using to make the connection at the fuel gauge port fitting to make a short turn.

The 10772 I am thinking of attaching to the -10 AN straight cut O ring to -6 AN fitting in the throttle body so I dont have to put a slight jog in the hardline but I fear it might make the line so short it cant be flared on both ends.

Honestly I am seriously contemplating next weekend just doing the hardline again but start at the throttle body end first then make the jog around the coil as I the two attempts I made without the gauge port was from the jog around the coil back. I ran into a problem of not getting the hardline square to the AN fitting in the throttle body which with AN it needs to be square.

My end game was always to get Dakota Digital to make the RTX Retro look cluster for our trucks and I wanted to replace the mechanical fuel pressure gauge with a fuel pressure sensor so I can use a add on module to the Dakota Digital RTX cluster so I can input a warning to flash on the information center when fuel pressure drops below 50-55 psi or goes above 65-70 psi. I can also get my transmission temperature read out as well without having to mount a under dash gauge and can set a warning for it as well. I also would have to get the compass and ambient air temp module as well.

Ive posted the photos before some where but this is the 73-79 truck cluster that Dakota Digital offers in the RTX Retro just to show how OE stock they appear.

Key off with door open, the mechanical look digital odometer turns on when door opens

Key on the cluster can light up in day light or remain dark till you turn the headlights on and you have multiple colors avaliable on each unit. Also the normal range box lights up with hash marks with actual read out for the gauges.

So in this case the mount being on the frame is no major loss for me as it will eventually be replaced with an electronic pressure sensor that wont require me to crawl under the truck to check the pressure.

A suggestion on the air cleaner that may sound like sacrilege, when I had my Shelby, I was trying to find an air cleaner that would allow me to use the hood scoop as the inlet source. I found a GM one, I believe it was from a Holley equipt 396 or 427 Chevy. The bottom dropped down below the carburetor top, but was sculpted so it had clearance for the cathedral bowls. It used a 14" element, had a lower bowl that was probably 16 - 18" OD so the ram air adapter to seal against the hood slipped over it. I made a new seal for it (it was just a foam strip high enough to reach) and ran it until I put the dual Holley system on.

Interesting, I was looking at the Goodmark GM air cleaners. I know the snorkel wont be right to fit the OE duct work but I was thinking if the diameter was the same I could in theory cut the snorkel off and graft the Ford one on. I could even turn the assembly around to put the distributor indentation to the front plate in the original opening and put the snorkel in the proper passenger side location.

These were the Goodmark ones I was looking at but they are listed as for cowl induction hoods.

Goodmark 4021230704S dual snorkel, pricy at $309.99

Goodmark 4020230694SX single snorkel, still kind of pricy at $232.99

I also looked at the Spectre Performance aftermarket air box but its 14" od with a 3" tall filter and a 4" round snorkel which I dont know if could be made to work with the OE plastic duct. Its also priced a bit higher than the single snorkel GM one at $264.99 but lots of people gave it one star review that the filter is so close to the housing that it leaves 90% of the filter unused.

As far as modifying goes I seriously thought about seeing if I could cut up a used air cleaner and graft another bottom into the center to get more of a drop on the air cleaner housing but I have no idea where to start.

If the Bronco 5.8 HO filter will fit I may consider just sourcing one of those and run that till I figure out how to get it to sit lower. If I use the air filter for a 302 how ever like what I have I will have to run a spacer and the smallest spacer is 1/2". The simulated float adjustment nuts on the 4150 is hitting mine right where the filter sits and I really cant ding it without it resulting in distorting the filter.

Still no word on my pushrods, no email from jegs when I inquire about how much longer since it now says "in process" under status.

I finally got my hardline made up and I am happy with how it came out. The fuel pressure gauge how ever will be mounted under the truck. I looked at how much of the line I would have to cut at the tbi as well as next to the distributor and it would leave too little material to fit the AN sleeve in place and get it in my AN flare tool.

The 3/8" zinc plated steel clamps with rubber insulator still hasnt been delivered, its been in town since Wed and was slated to be delivered yesterday but update to the USPS tracking number at 3pm yesterday put it leaving the city and going halfways across the state for some unknown reason. Hopefully they dont arrive by the 11th so I can request a refund on it. The -6AN to 3/8" barb fittings did come in how ever and I am looking at running Earls Vapor Guard 3/8 hose with the vapor barrier.

One thing that has me thinking since I saw how much higher the OE aircleaner sits and realized that the Edelbrock Performer intake is actually taller than the emission intake then I have a 1" four hole spacer on top I am not contemplating if I could just simply raise my throttle cable bracket up 1" - 2" to get a square pull and still have enough cable length to obtain full travel. If not I am contemplating going with a lokar cable and just chop the OE cable and retain the OE housing but slide the lokar cable in and make my own end up and figure out how to attach the cruise control. This gave way to the C6 kick down rod, I have the Holley 2V to 4V extension but considering how the intake is so much taller than stock now without realizing it I dont know if I can make that work or if I will have to go to a aftermarket cable setup which I dont want to do.

Besides that, just paying off bills, harassing Dakota Digital to try and get the RetroTech cluster made for our trucks and waiting on parts to further my build.

Photo of the -6 AN male to 3/8" hose barb fitting

Close up of the hardline without fuel pressure port

Another close up of the hardline

[Rusty_S85]

Still no word on my pushrods, no email from jegs when I inquire about how much longer since it now says "in process" under status.

I finally got my hardline made up and I am happy with how it came out. The fuel pressure gauge how ever will be mounted under the truck. I looked at how much of the line I would have to cut at the tbi as well as next to the distributor and it would leave too little material to fit the AN sleeve in place and get it in my AN flare tool.

The 3/8" zinc plated steel clamps with rubber insulator still hasnt been delivered, its been in town since Wed and was slated to be delivered yesterday but update to the USPS tracking number at 3pm yesterday put it leaving the city and going halfways across the state for some unknown reason. Hopefully they dont arrive by the 11th so I can request a refund on it. The -6AN to 3/8" barb fittings did come in how ever and I am looking at running Earls Vapor Guard 3/8 hose with the vapor barrier.

One thing that has me thinking since I saw how much higher the OE aircleaner sits and realized that the Edelbrock Performer intake is actually taller than the emission intake then I have a 1" four hole spacer on top I am not contemplating if I could just simply raise my throttle cable bracket up 1" - 2" to get a square pull and still have enough cable length to obtain full travel. If not I am contemplating going with a lokar cable and just chop the OE cable and retain the OE housing but slide the lokar cable in and make my own end up and figure out how to attach the cruise control. This gave way to the C6 kick down rod, I have the Holley 2V to 4V extension but considering how the intake is so much taller than stock now without realizing it I dont know if I can make that work or if I will have to go to a aftermarket cable setup which I dont want to do.

Besides that, just paying off bills, harassing Dakota Digital to try and get the RetroTech cluster made for our trucks and waiting on parts to further my build.

Photo of the -6 AN male to 3/8" hose barb fitting

Close up of the hardline without fuel pressure port

Another close up of the hardline

Have a bit of a issue right now. Earlier today through fb I was in contact with Ed on one of the Ford V8 groups I am on, he informed me that he had or had the ability to get me the 5/16" x 6.40" length pushrods that I've been waiting half a year for through jegs made by Manley. This company that makes them for Ed is Manton Pushrods and I can get a set of 3 piece pushrods for $216.84 which would save me $27.79 on the Manley 6.400" x 5/16" x 0.120" wall thickness. Only thing is these pushrods are a thinner wall thickness but it sounds like the 3 piece design allows for hardening to be done differently for different parts resulting in a pushrod that is stouter than a traditional 1 or 2 piece.

I am seriously thinking about canceling my jegs order and place my order with him. Only thing is I never bought from him before and to get the custom length it says to just simply order the length you want but I dont know exactly how that is to be done. I have sent an email and will see what is said as I am torn between the 0.083" wall thickness 3 piece pushrod set for $192.00 or the 0.116" wall thickness 3 piece pushrod set for $248.00.

[Gary Lewis]

Have a bit of a issue right now. Earlier today through fb I was in contact with Ed on one of the Ford V8 groups I am on, he informed me that he had or had the ability to get me the 5/16" x 6.40" length pushrods that I've been waiting half a year for through jegs made by Manley. This company that makes them for Ed is Manton Pushrods and I can get a set of 3 piece pushrods for $216.84 which would save me $27.79 on the Manley 6.400" x 5/16" x 0.120" wall thickness. Only thing is these pushrods are a thinner wall thickness but it sounds like the 3 piece design allows for hardening to be done differently for different parts resulting in a pushrod that is stouter than a traditional 1 or 2 piece.

I am seriously thinking about canceling my jegs order and place my order with him. Only thing is I never bought from him before and to get the custom length it says to just simply order the length you want but I dont know exactly how that is to be done. I have sent an email and will see what is said as I am torn between the 0.083" wall thickness 3 piece pushrod set for $192.00 or the 0.116" wall thickness 3 piece pushrod set for $248.00.

First, I missed the previous post, but your fuel line looks great. Well done.

On the push rods, do you have to cancel the first order? The odds of you getting both aren't high, but that could happen I guess.

But I don't have any suggestions for you on the wall thickness. I'm not up to speed with push rods. Sorry.

[Rusty_S85]

First, I missed the previous post, but your fuel line looks great. Well done.

On the push rods, do you have to cancel the first order? The odds of you getting both aren't high, but that could happen I guess.

But I don't have any suggestions for you on the wall thickness. I'm not up to speed with push rods. Sorry.

Thanks, I dont have to cancel the order from Jegs but what I may do is put the pushrods on my paypal credit and once they ship I can then cancel my jegs order and put the refunded money onto my paypal credit as a payment.

On the wall thickness I couldnt say either. AFR states to run 0.120" wall thickness pushrods since there are guide plates but yet you can buy 0.080-0.083" wall thickness pushrods that are hardened for use with guide plates. I know the mass of the pushrod doesnt matter from a performance stand point but with the price difference I dont see the point in spending the extra money if the 0.083" wall thickness is already overkill for my application.

[Gary Lewis]

First, I missed the previous post, but your fuel line looks great. Well done.

On the push rods, do you have to cancel the first order? The odds of you getting both aren't high, but that could happen I guess.

But I don't have any suggestions for you on the wall thickness. I'm not up to speed with push rods. Sorry.

Thanks, I dont have to cancel the order from Jegs but what I may do is put the pushrods on my paypal credit and once they ship I can then cancel my jegs order and put the refunded money onto my paypal credit as a payment.

On the wall thickness I couldnt say either. AFR states to run 0.120" wall thickness pushrods since there are guide plates but yet you can buy 0.080-0.083" wall thickness pushrods that are hardened for use with guide plates. I know the mass of the pushrod doesnt matter from a performance stand point but with the price difference I dont see the point in spending the extra money if the 0.083" wall thickness is already overkill for my application.

I think you have a good plan.

[Rusty_S85]

I think you have a good plan.

Yep, I got a email reply from Ed, he informed me that I am doing nothing special just a street performance engine and thus a standard 4150 chromoly one piece pushrod in 0.083" wall thickness will be well over enough. He informed me that the chromemoly is a considerable amount stronger than the standard steel tube that your average pushrods are so I shouldnt have any issues with the 0.083" wall thickness.

So I placed my order today for the 6.400" length chromemoly 1 piece push rods in 5/16" size and 0.083" wall thickness where one end is 210* spherical end and the other is a standard 180* spherical end on order. Hopefully the pushrods should ship out in 24 - 48 hours as per Manton`s website that states when they receive an order the order will ship with in 24 - 48 hours. I will keep the Jegs order on hand even though I cant cancel the order I placed now as its a custom part but I think it will ship before Jegs ships since the last I heard is Manley wont be getting material in to make pushrods till April.

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, I got a email reply from Ed, he informed me that I am doing nothing special just a street performance engine and thus a standard 4150 chromoly one piece pushrod in 0.083" wall thickness will be well over enough. He informed me that the chromemoly is a considerable amount stronger than the standard steel tube that your average pushrods are so I shouldnt have any issues with the 0.083" wall thickness.

So I placed my order today for the 6.400" length chromemoly 1 piece push rods in 5/16" size and 0.083" wall thickness where one end is 210* spherical end and the other is a standard 180* spherical end on order. Hopefully the pushrods should ship out in 24 - 48 hours as per Manton`s website that states when they receive an order the order will ship with in 24 - 48 hours. I will keep the Jegs order on hand even though I cant cancel the order I placed now as its a custom part but I think it will ship before Jegs ships since the last I heard is Manley wont be getting material in to make pushrods till April.

This should speed things up dramatically!