Fuel Injection upgrade

[Gary Lewis]

It looks great, Rusty!

And I am a fan of Detail Gray. Even have some of it on Dad's truck.

Same here, I also like their Brake Gray that has real stainless steel powder in it. It will rust near the brake fluid but it wont turn into a block of rust like unpainted cast iron. I dont know if I want to wire brush my old master cylinder and spray it or just buy a new one and spray it. I will be getting new wheel cylinders and calipers since truck has sat for a few years now and I do need to go into the rear drums to find out what I need to get the self adjusters working again, I disabled them as they were just constantly tightening up. So I can use the 3/4 can I have of the brake gray to spray those items.

I might even use it on the spindles too since its resistant to brake fluid. I have four new Moog ball joints put up to put on the truck but was going to do that after I install new leaf springs in the back to OE specs from Detroit Spring and new coil springs in the front OE spec + 2.5" increase over stock for a built in leveling kit. Im also thinking about pulling the rear axle when I do the leaf springs and stripping it down to bare metal and painting it black.

Im going to try and plan it where I do the springs at the same time I plan on doing the currie center chunk housing that way I can just pull the whole axle out wire brush it down and primer it and paint it, but that will be painted in the 2K chassis black as its a very durable paint.

Why not go with the later master? Much better. Aluminum and plastic won't rust.

As for the rest of that stuff, you are like me - once you get started you don't know when to stop!

[Rusty_S85]

Why not go with the later master? Much better. Aluminum and plastic won't rust.

As for the rest of that stuff, you are like me - once you get started you don't know when to stop!

I might do that. I dont even know if I will stick with vacuum brakes. I wont know what kind of vacuum I will have till I get this engine running. I very well may be going with late model hydraboost brakes.

Aside from that I assembled the front accessory brackets to mock up the fuel line. I blew through 20 feet of 3/8 stainless line due to wrong bends or collapsed lines or just not liking the routing I completed. Right now I am waiting on a new 25ft roll of 3/8 stainless line and trying to figure out how I can do it. I ended up flipping the Tee upside down but screwing the pressure gauge in another half turn is making it block off the tee passage more and I dont like it so I am going to have to get another tee as its ruined now being aluminum but its good enough for mocking the line up.

What has me unsure about the routing I have now in these photos is I think its going to be in the way of the ignition coil. I also think the forward line will be as well but I hope not as the forward line I cant bend any shorter and if I tried I wouldnt have enough material to flare it with the AN sleeve and tube nut installed first.

First photo is of the aluminum powersteering pump bracket that I cleaned up and sprayed with Krylon high temp engine primer and top coated with eastwood aluma blast.

Second photo is of the mock up with the accessory drive brackets including water pump pulley, fan spacer and my OE dimension 7 bladed flex fan which is a quarter inch smaller diameter than the factory offered AC equipped flex fan that had 7 blades.

This is the fuel line routing I currently have. I tried to put the 180 loop on the bottom but I cant get it bent tight enough so any 180 I do will not fit as the loop is smashed into the intake/head before I can even attempt to get the line in place on the tee. I believe the loop is close enough that it should clear the OE aircleaner. Before I go making another line up I will try mocking up my OE air cleaner to verify the clearance then I will remove my coil and coil mount to see if I can maybe slide the coil a little forward in the bracket to clear the fuel lines.

Close up of the 7 blade flex fan, I bought it in Ford blue with polished stainless steel blades but Flex A Lite discontinued that color so I had to get the silver with polished stainless steel blades. Listed as being good to 8,000 rpm which is more than this engine will ever see and it has off set blades like the OE so it should operate quietly.

I also decided to use ARP hardware for everything except for the pivot bolt for the power steering pump, alternator and the tension bolt for the power steering pump. Many of the bracket bolts were miss matched due to being a dealer installed A/C unit and the flex fan bolts had flattened lock washers that couldnt do their job and they werent able to be removed as they are captured behind the threads.

[Gary Lewis]

Why not go with the later master? Much better. Aluminum and plastic won't rust.

As for the rest of that stuff, you are like me - once you get started you don't know when to stop!

I might do that. I dont even know if I will stick with vacuum brakes. I wont know what kind of vacuum I will have till I get this engine running. I very well may be going with late model hydraboost brakes.

Aside from that I assembled the front accessory brackets to mock up the fuel line. I blew through 20 feet of 3/8 stainless line due to wrong bends or collapsed lines or just not liking the routing I completed. Right now I am waiting on a new 25ft roll of 3/8 stainless line and trying to figure out how I can do it. I ended up flipping the Tee upside down but screwing the pressure gauge in another half turn is making it block off the tee passage more and I dont like it so I am going to have to get another tee as its ruined now being aluminum but its good enough for mocking the line up.

What has me unsure about the routing I have now in these photos is I think its going to be in the way of the ignition coil. I also think the forward line will be as well but I hope not as the forward line I cant bend any shorter and if I tried I wouldnt have enough material to flare it with the AN sleeve and tube nut installed first.

First photo is of the aluminum powersteering pump bracket that I cleaned up and sprayed with Krylon high temp engine primer and top coated with eastwood aluma blast.

Second photo is of the mock up with the accessory drive brackets including water pump pulley, fan spacer and my OE dimension 7 bladed flex fan which is a quarter inch smaller diameter than the factory offered AC equipped flex fan that had 7 blades.

This is the fuel line routing I currently have. I tried to put the 180 loop on the bottom but I cant get it bent tight enough so any 180 I do will not fit as the loop is smashed into the intake/head before I can even attempt to get the line in place on the tee. I believe the loop is close enough that it should clear the OE aircleaner. Before I go making another line up I will try mocking up my OE air cleaner to verify the clearance then I will remove my coil and coil mount to see if I can maybe slide the coil a little forward in the bracket to clear the fuel lines.

Close up of the 7 blade flex fan, I bought it in Ford blue with polished stainless steel blades but Flex A Lite discontinued that color so I had to get the silver with polished stainless steel blades. Listed as being good to 8,000 rpm which is more than this engine will ever see and it has off set blades like the OE so it should operate quietly.

I also decided to use ARP hardware for everything except for the pivot bolt for the power steering pump, alternator and the tension bolt for the power steering pump. Many of the bracket bolts were miss matched due to being a dealer installed A/C unit and the flex fan bolts had flattened lock washers that couldnt do their job and they werent able to be removed as they are captured behind the threads.

Looks great, Rusty! And I think you'll like the later master. Far fewer, if any, leaks from the cap and no cast iron to rust.

Love the attention to detail. I know you are anxious to get this done, but the extra time forced on you is paying off in getting things "right".

[Rusty_S85]

Looks great, Rusty! And I think you'll like the later master. Far fewer, if any, leaks from the cap and no cast iron to rust.

Love the attention to detail. I know you are anxious to get this done, but the extra time forced on you is paying off in getting things "right".

It is also letting me rethink some things such as my fuel line routing. I had one bend I tossed cause it would require the fuel line to be removed to get the distributor cap off as it was too close to the clip that holds the large cap to the cap adapter. The current iteration I like but not sure how to get the bends just right in the stiff stainless steel line to clamp it with the fuel pump block off plate bolt to hold the line. Then there is the air cleaner and coil issue I have to check this week and see if the same layout is viable or if I want to bring it around behind the sniper and down the driver side which I really dont want to do as thats a lot of excessive line.

[Gary Lewis]

Looks great, Rusty! And I think you'll like the later master. Far fewer, if any, leaks from the cap and no cast iron to rust.

Love the attention to detail. I know you are anxious to get this done, but the extra time forced on you is paying off in getting things "right".

It is also letting me rethink some things such as my fuel line routing. I had one bend I tossed cause it would require the fuel line to be removed to get the distributor cap off as it was too close to the clip that holds the large cap to the cap adapter. The current iteration I like but not sure how to get the bends just right in the stiff stainless steel line to clamp it with the fuel pump block off plate bolt to hold the line. Then there is the air cleaner and coil issue I have to check this week and see if the same layout is viable or if I want to bring it around behind the sniper and down the driver side which I really dont want to do as thats a lot of excessive line.

And getting all of those things "right" is what makes for joy down the road. Sometimes there's goodness in having to slow down.

[Rusty_S85]

Looks great, Rusty! And I think you'll like the later master. Far fewer, if any, leaks from the cap and no cast iron to rust.

Love the attention to detail. I know you are anxious to get this done, but the extra time forced on you is paying off in getting things "right".

It is also letting me rethink some things such as my fuel line routing. I had one bend I tossed cause it would require the fuel line to be removed to get the distributor cap off as it was too close to the clip that holds the large cap to the cap adapter. The current iteration I like but not sure how to get the bends just right in the stiff stainless steel line to clamp it with the fuel pump block off plate bolt to hold the line. Then there is the air cleaner and coil issue I have to check this week and see if the same layout is viable or if I want to bring it around behind the sniper and down the driver side which I really dont want to do as thats a lot of excessive line.

Still no real progress, No pushrods and I called up Manley last week since Jegs just cant seem to get me a straight answer. Manley told me they wont be getting materials in to start making pushrods till April at the earliest. They also informed me they only had 7 of the pushrods that I ordered in stock so there isnt stock to even send out.

Aside from that I havent done anything to the engine but I did find the following aircleaner housings how ever used and cant decide what way to go.

First off aircleaner was taken off a 5.8L HO engine in a 1985 bronco

Then I found this aircleaner taken off a 80s truck with no mention of engine size but it is a steel base

Then I found this one that came off a 1984 F150 with a 302 and a 4V carb

Part of me would like to get the first one for the bronco but not sure if the snorkel off my current aluminum aircleaner could be swapped over. My next choice is the third one I found which is basically the same aluminum aircleaner I currently have just without any cracks. Down side is I know my OE aircleaner wont fit the 4150 sniper as the simulated float adjustments on the front and rear simulated bowls are hitting the aircleaner preventing it from sitting flush. I believe I could simply throw on a 1/4" carb spacer to elevate the aircleaner enough to fit flush if I have to. I feel the 5.8L HO one might would be clearanced for the 4150 style carb but for $120 I am unsure about all the fitment and it appears that one may have a larger diameter cleaner which means I couldnt use my original lid as my seal is in perfect condition.

[Gary Lewis]

Still no real progress, No pushrods and I called up Manley last week since Jegs just cant seem to get me a straight answer. Manley told me they wont be getting materials in to start making pushrods till April at the earliest. They also informed me they only had 7 of the pushrods that I ordered in stock so there isnt stock to even send out.

Aside from that I havent done anything to the engine but I did find the following aircleaner housings how ever used and cant decide what way to go.

First off aircleaner was taken off a 5.8L HO engine in a 1985 bronco

Then I found this aircleaner taken off a 80s truck with no mention of engine size but it is a steel base

Then I found this one that came off a 1984 F150 with a 302 and a 4V carb

Part of me would like to get the first one for the bronco but not sure if the snorkel off my current aluminum aircleaner could be swapped over. My next choice is the third one I found which is basically the same aluminum aircleaner I currently have just without any cracks. Down side is I know my OE aircleaner wont fit the 4150 sniper as the simulated float adjustments on the front and rear simulated bowls are hitting the aircleaner preventing it from sitting flush. I believe I could simply throw on a 1/4" carb spacer to elevate the aircleaner enough to fit flush if I have to. I feel the 5.8L HO one might would be clearanced for the 4150 style carb but for $120 I am unsure about all the fitment and it appears that one may have a larger diameter cleaner which means I couldnt use my original lid as my seal is in perfect condition.

That's a bummer on the push rods!

On the air cleaner, my experience is that all the snorkels interchange. And the HO air cleaner is bigger in diameter. Hope that helps.

[Rusty_S85]

That's a bummer on the push rods!

On the air cleaner, my experience is that all the snorkels interchange. And the HO air cleaner is bigger in diameter. Hope that helps.

Thats what I was afraid of, the lid on the HO air cleaner has damaged gasket so I couldnt simply throw my lid on that housing. I would have to get the smaller aluminum one which doesnt currently have cracks but may form over time.

Then there is the thought that if the HO is a larger diameter it may actually clear my 4150 style system and not need a spacer for the aircleaner.

[Rusty_S85]

That's a bummer on the push rods!

On the air cleaner, my experience is that all the snorkels interchange. And the HO air cleaner is bigger in diameter. Hope that helps.

Thats what I was afraid of, the lid on the HO air cleaner has damaged gasket so I couldnt simply throw my lid on that housing. I would have to get the smaller aluminum one which doesnt currently have cracks but may form over time.

Then there is the thought that if the HO is a larger diameter it may actually clear my 4150 style system and not need a spacer for the aircleaner.

Might be getting my pushrods sooner than I thought. I just checked jegs website and my order which under status was previously blank now says "In process". Might have gotten enough made and when I called and checked with Manley directly they wouldnt know the order and I was simply seeking for current production which may take till April.

[Rusty_S85]

Might be getting my pushrods sooner than I thought. I just checked jegs website and my order which under status was previously blank now says "In process". Might have gotten enough made and when I called and checked with Manley directly they wouldnt know the order and I was simply seeking for current production which may take till April.

Had to make some changes to my routing of my hardlines to clear the OE coil mount.

What I ended up doing is using the sniper 4150 stealth supplied tee that has one female -6 and two male -6 to make the connection by the coil as I just could not make a tight enough bend to fit around the coil. I like how it came out but a new problem arose for the rear, I just can't get the fit right so I have two choices. One choice is to attempt to bend a solid hardline from the forward tee to the rear tee without the inline fuel pressure port. If I go this route I will mount the fuel pressure port on the hardline on the frame after the fuel filter/regulator assembly. The other route is to use a male -6 elbow to connect at the fuel pressure port and either try to tweak a hardline to fit or use a -6 male to -6 female fitting at 45* to allow for a straight hook up.

I will be buying those fittings and trying out what my choices are but I will also be purchasing -6 male to 3/8" hose barb to make my rubber flex connection from the engine to the frame. I also need to find and purchase some 3/8" hardline clamps that has a 3/8" bolt hole as I thought what I had from my stash from left over parts at work would work but the hole wasn't large enough and attempting to drill the hole out twisted and destroyed the clamp.

I also am looking at one of two things either a air filter adapter to fit the larger CFI air cleaner base to a standard 4V carb or a simple 1/8" (or smallest size available) spacer to just raise the OE air cleaner up. Looking at how high the air cleaner is in the photos below above stock without this spacer/adapter I don't know if I could run the larger bronco air cleaner without hitting the firewall. I thought about just running like the sniper air filter that has the notches to fit the 4150 stealth which would allow the filter to fit lower but I don't like the thought of the open element getting blasted with hot air from the cooling fan when it could be pulling air from in front of the core support like OE.

Photo of the tee I ended up using to clear the OE coil and coil mount.

Photo of the driver side showing the routing of the hardline and the AN flared end where the rubber hose flex joint will attach.

Photo of the attachment at the tee by the distributor.

Photo of the fuel line around the back of the distributor, I gave it enough room to allow the clip for the cap to easily be accessed to not just remove the cap but to clip the cap back down in place.

Next two photos show the close up with the pressure port tee installed but I have a -6 AN male to female pressure port that I didnt switch to yet but will be the fitting I use. These photos show just how hard it is for me to make a 3/8" hardline as I cant bend the lines tight enough or I cant move the pressure port more forward as I cant flare the hardline with the sleeve installed due to the 90* bend. Only way I could attempt to get around that is to bend a new hardline and measure cut and flare before I do the bend and then make the bend but that may pose a problem with making a 90* bend with the sleeve.

And a photo of my OE air cleaner sitting atop the 4150 stealth. Can see just how high the air cleaner sits compared to OE and I still need to raise it up a bit for clearance unless I can find an adapter that will allow me to fit the CFI air cleaner I have that is NOS in the box. Still this extra height has me concerned about fitment on the truck as the truck does have this over hang for the cowl and if too high the air cleaner will hit. If this ends up happening I will just have to get a generic open element air cleaner or spend big money for a drop base snorkel aftermarket assembly and try to fit it to the truck.