Fuel Injection upgrade

[Gary Lewis]

Well I just got word, my Summit order with the -6 AN tee with 1/8 NPT port for my fuel line didnt ship yesterday and now it is slated to be back in stock 1/20/2022 so I can buy them off ebay but they are priced gouged between $30 and $60 not including the shipping for a $18 part.

I also just got out of chat with Jegs support and they are now telling my my pushrods which I was told Friday would ship out on the 15th is now showing that there is now no estimated date to ship.

I am finding it very hard to not curse right now because they are using this bs excuse of global shortage as their go to so they can be lazy and not get parts made and this isnt jegs or summit, pushrods are always shipped by the manfacturer its the manfacturers that are being lazy. You cant tell me that over the shut down last year that everyone bought up every stock of ford pushrods in 6.40" length with 0.120" wall thickness. Thats not OE stock length so I dont believe they would be out of stock. The woman I chatted with said she would call Manley tomorrow and get to the bottom of this and email me tomorrow I thanked her for that cause I told her an email wont work cause three different guys last week on jegs support emailed them and they never got back with me with a reply and I emailed Manley back in September to ask them if they had any in stock cause some guys were saying that the manufacturer had the parts but the parts house was saying no till they got enough orders in to make a bulk order to save money but never got a email back from Manley.

As of right now I cant do anything. I cant make fuel lines cause I dont have the Tee I need. I cant prime the oil system and check oil pressure so I can install the pressure sender cause I dont have the pushrods. I cant torque the crank bolt till I get the spark plugs in and I dont want to do that as they will have to be removed again to rotate the engine over to set valve lash.

I guess what I will end up doing is this weekend pulling the powersteering pump pulley off and removing the aluminum bracket and get ready to refinish that and pull the alternator bracket and spray the cast iron color paint ontop the zinc phosphate coating I sprayed a couple years ago.

Bummer!!!! That is such a shame. Sorry, Rusty.

But I think your plan for the weekend sounds good.

[Rusty_S85]

Bummer!!!! That is such a shame. Sorry, Rusty.

But I think your plan for the weekend sounds good.

Yep, during lunch today I canceled the summit order as I found the tee new on ebay for $24.95 which is only a couple dollars more than what I was paying on summit with tax and shipping so I bought it and should have it monday.

The woman that helped me at jegs last night emailed me today and informed me that she talked to them on the phone at Manley and they told her these pushrods should be ready late december early january. At least I have a date which is better than the it ships next week and it doesnt.

[Gary Lewis]

Bummer!!!! That is such a shame. Sorry, Rusty.

But I think your plan for the weekend sounds good.

Yep, during lunch today I canceled the summit order as I found the tee new on ebay for $24.95 which is only a couple dollars more than what I was paying on summit with tax and shipping so I bought it and should have it monday.

The woman that helped me at jegs last night emailed me today and informed me that she talked to them on the phone at Manley and they told her these pushrods should be ready late december early january. At least I have a date which is better than the it ships next week and it doesnt.

It is good that she got back with you. At least someone is trying to help.

[Rusty_S85]

It is good that she got back with you. At least someone is trying to help.

It is cause last week on Monday, Wed and Thursday the different guys helping emailed Manley and said they would email me with the reply and I never got one. I wasnt expecting her to email me back so I was shocked to see the reply. I dont mind waiting to the end of December long as I get my tee soon I can take my time to bend up custom fuel line and get it all mounted up. I already decided I will wait till next year to send my distributor in for recurving and my headers for ceramic coating. I am hopeful that by next year things will start straightening out and not be such a headache.

[Rusty_S85]

It is good that she got back with you. At least someone is trying to help.

It is cause last week on Monday, Wed and Thursday the different guys helping emailed Manley and said they would email me with the reply and I never got one. I wasnt expecting her to email me back so I was shocked to see the reply. I dont mind waiting to the end of December long as I get my tee soon I can take my time to bend up custom fuel line and get it all mounted up. I already decided I will wait till next year to send my distributor in for recurving and my headers for ceramic coating. I am hopeful that by next year things will start straightening out and not be such a headache.

Didnt do much today only had a few hours to work but I got my -6 Tee with 1/8 npt pressure port in yesterday which surprised me as ebay stated it would be delivered Monday.

So I made my hardlines by straightening out 12" worth of the 3/8" stainless annealed hardline before cutting them in half in equal 6" lengths before bending them at 90* into the Tee.

I didnt make the hardline down to the fuel pump block off plate where the 3/8" fuel hose will connect between frame and engine as I need to get my accessory bracketed bolted on first so I can route the hardline without interfering. I also found out I will need to use the head spacer to move the head bracket for the AC compressor bracket forward to clear the intake so I have to measure what I have and try and source a spacer in the same dimensions before I can do any kind of hardline routing.

I am seriously thinking about bringing the hardline up and over the intake runner for cylinder one and bring it behind the distributor vs going between the coil and distributor with a gentle curve around the distributor then down to the fuel pump. I also resprayed the alternator bracket, I just went over the zinc phosphate paint with eastwood pre paint prep then shot it with eastwood detail gray which is their cast iron gray color and I like it, its a lighter gray than the zinc phosphate which is a dark charcoal gray.

Here is the alternator bracket in cast iron gray color with and without flash

Here is a whole shot of the engine with the water pump pulley just sitting in place. Still havent decided if I want to measure the OE bolts and buy them in ARP or not.

Two photos of the 3/8" stainless steel hardline arrangement I will be using with the 0 - 100 psi fuel pressure gauge.

Two photos with the valve cover sitting in place verifying alignment of pressure gauge.

[85lebaront2]

Didnt do much today only had a few hours to work but I got my -6 Tee with 1/8 npt pressure port in yesterday which surprised me as ebay stated it would be delivered Monday.

So I made my hardlines by straightening out 12" worth of the 3/8" stainless annealed hardline before cutting them in half in equal 6" lengths before bending them at 90* into the Tee.

I didnt make the hardline down to the fuel pump block off plate where the 3/8" fuel hose will connect between frame and engine as I need to get my accessory bracketed bolted on first so I can route the hardline without interfering. I also found out I will need to use the head spacer to move the head bracket for the AC compressor bracket forward to clear the intake so I have to measure what I have and try and source a spacer in the same dimensions before I can do any kind of hardline routing.

I am seriously thinking about bringing the hardline up and over the intake runner for cylinder one and bring it behind the distributor vs going between the coil and distributor with a gentle curve around the distributor then down to the fuel pump. I also resprayed the alternator bracket, I just went over the zinc phosphate paint with eastwood pre paint prep then shot it with eastwood detail gray which is their cast iron gray color and I like it, its a lighter gray than the zinc phosphate which is a dark charcoal gray.

Here is the alternator bracket in cast iron gray color with and without flash

Here is a whole shot of the engine with the water pump pulley just sitting in place. Still havent decided if I want to measure the OE bolts and buy them in ARP or not.

Two photos of the 3/8" stainless steel hardline arrangement I will be using with the 0 - 100 psi fuel pressure gauge.

Two photos with the valve cover sitting in place verifying alignment of pressure gauge.

Very nice looking! That is going to get some attention.

[Rusty_S85]

Very nice looking! That is going to get some attention.

lol if you can even see it. I will be running the OE aircleaner and not sure how easy you can see it. Big reason why I centered it to the throttlebody as it will put it further back of the snorkel making it easier to see when crouched down to the fender.

The stainless steel is a nice touch I think as it will allow me to run E85 if I so choose since I wont have to worry about moisture causing rust or corrosion inside the hardlines. I doubt I will run E85 but the option being there is nice. The big thing is I know how this blended fuel which is the easiest to get loves absorbing moisture out of the atmosphere and if I dont burn enough fuel quick enough with this EFI system I may run into moisture in the fuel tank so the stainless lines I think is a good thing to prevent the lines at the very least from corroding. I plan on running the stabil 360 ethanol treatment which will protect the fuel tank as well as keep corrosion minimal in the fuel system such as injectors.

Hardest thing is deciding how to route the hardline from the tee. Part of me wants to go the easy way straight forward under coil then hang a left to the driverside then forty five down to the side of the timing cover then forty five down to the clamp on the fuel pump block off plate then ninety to the frame with a good 4" of hardline for the rubber hose connection for flex. But doing it this way will put it right under/over the 5/8" heater hose and I prefer not to add any more heat to the fuel system than I need. Would take quite a bit of heat to boil fuel at 60 psi fuel pressure but I still prefer to not heat the fuel up that I dont have to.

The hardline on the frame will be stainless as well, Inline Tube who I got the tube nuts and sleeves from in stainless has a prebent 3/8 fuel line for a long wheel base F150 truck in stainless. I will run it back to where I plan on mounting the corvette filter/regulator combo cut the hardline and rent a quick disconnect flare tool to flare the hardline to connect directly to the filter. Im also seriously thinking about making hardlines from the filter/regulator down the frame behind the fuel tank going up to the top of the fuel tank then ninety over to the sending unit with a short piece of hose to make the connection.

[grumpin]

Very nice looking! That is going to get some attention.

Yup! Purdy!

[Gary Lewis]

Didnt do much today only had a few hours to work but I got my -6 Tee with 1/8 npt pressure port in yesterday which surprised me as ebay stated it would be delivered Monday.

So I made my hardlines by straightening out 12" worth of the 3/8" stainless annealed hardline before cutting them in half in equal 6" lengths before bending them at 90* into the Tee.

I didnt make the hardline down to the fuel pump block off plate where the 3/8" fuel hose will connect between frame and engine as I need to get my accessory bracketed bolted on first so I can route the hardline without interfering. I also found out I will need to use the head spacer to move the head bracket for the AC compressor bracket forward to clear the intake so I have to measure what I have and try and source a spacer in the same dimensions before I can do any kind of hardline routing.

I am seriously thinking about bringing the hardline up and over the intake runner for cylinder one and bring it behind the distributor vs going between the coil and distributor with a gentle curve around the distributor then down to the fuel pump. I also resprayed the alternator bracket, I just went over the zinc phosphate paint with eastwood pre paint prep then shot it with eastwood detail gray which is their cast iron gray color and I like it, its a lighter gray than the zinc phosphate which is a dark charcoal gray.

Here is the alternator bracket in cast iron gray color with and without flash

Here is a whole shot of the engine with the water pump pulley just sitting in place. Still havent decided if I want to measure the OE bolts and buy them in ARP or not.

Two photos of the 3/8" stainless steel hardline arrangement I will be using with the 0 - 100 psi fuel pressure gauge.

Two photos with the valve cover sitting in place verifying alignment of pressure gauge.

It looks great, Rusty!

And I am a fan of Detail Gray. Even have some of it on Dad's truck.

[Rusty_S85]

It looks great, Rusty!

And I am a fan of Detail Gray. Even have some of it on Dad's truck.

Same here, I also like their Brake Gray that has real stainless steel powder in it. It will rust near the brake fluid but it wont turn into a block of rust like unpainted cast iron. I dont know if I want to wire brush my old master cylinder and spray it or just buy a new one and spray it. I will be getting new wheel cylinders and calipers since truck has sat for a few years now and I do need to go into the rear drums to find out what I need to get the self adjusters working again, I disabled them as they were just constantly tightening up. So I can use the 3/4 can I have of the brake gray to spray those items.

I might even use it on the spindles too since its resistant to brake fluid. I have four new Moog ball joints put up to put on the truck but was going to do that after I install new leaf springs in the back to OE specs from Detroit Spring and new coil springs in the front OE spec + 2.5" increase over stock for a built in leveling kit. Im also thinking about pulling the rear axle when I do the leaf springs and stripping it down to bare metal and painting it black.

Im going to try and plan it where I do the springs at the same time I plan on doing the currie center chunk housing that way I can just pull the whole axle out wire brush it down and primer it and paint it, but that will be painted in the 2K chassis black as its a very durable paint.