Fuel Injection upgrade

[Gary Lewis]

Painted the front side of the brackets and pulleys and things came out a bit better, I may how ever go back over the AC crank pulley again cause it was hard trying to get black paint on the inside of the four ribs that connects the pulley to the pulley mounting base.

All the pieces I repainted today in underhood black

Water pump pulley in natural sunlight to show off the 10% - 15% low gloss sheen.

Flex fan spacer in natural sunlight

Flex fan spacer atop water pump pulley

AC Compressor bracket

AC Compressor head bracket to main bracket and Powersteering pump bracket

Powersteering pump bracket

Crank pulley

AC Crank pulley

AC Bracket spacers two equal size one thinner. Two equal size ones goes on the water pump and the thinner one off sets the uneven head surface for the rear compressor bracket plate. I shouldnt have to use that spacer but painted it anyways.

I think the black looks good. The shots in sunlight tell the tale.

[Rusty_S85]

I think the black looks good. The shots in sunlight tell the tale.

It does, in person it looks pretty good for what it is, the only question is how durable the finish will be, I know the 2K primer is quite durable but the non 2K underhood black might not be as durable only time will tell. I do know if it isnt that durable I will be pulling it all off and will strip it down and re do it with the 2K engine primer and top coated with the 2K underhood black. I just couldnt justify paying $27 - $30 a can for the 2K stuff not knowing if one whole can would paint all I had or if I would only use half of it like I did with my engine and then waste the other half.

I tried to use photoshop to get the header color changed from black to the zirconia to see if it might be a viable option I might like and this is the best I can do as the black base color is making it hard to get the color as vibrant as I want playing with the sliders.

This is two photos of the Zirconia to show its greenish grey color

My other option is the black

So I am still on the fence on which color to go with I just know I dont want silver as when scrapped it turns grey. I like the black and I like the Zirconia but I know the black will be a sure way to go that will look good but I also know the engine is going to be nothing but Dark Corporate blue and black with only the sniper stealth being the old Holley gold color.

[Gary Lewis]

I think the black looks good. The shots in sunlight tell the tale.

It does, in person it looks pretty good for what it is, the only question is how durable the finish will be, I know the 2K primer is quite durable but the non 2K underhood black might not be as durable only time will tell. I do know if it isnt that durable I will be pulling it all off and will strip it down and re do it with the 2K engine primer and top coated with the 2K underhood black. I just couldnt justify paying $27 - $30 a can for the 2K stuff not knowing if one whole can would paint all I had or if I would only use half of it like I did with my engine and then waste the other half.

I tried to use photoshop to get the header color changed from black to the zirconia to see if it might be a viable option I might like and this is the best I can do as the black base color is making it hard to get the color as vibrant as I want playing with the sliders.

This is two photos of the Zirconia to show its greenish grey color

My other option is the black

So I am still on the fence on which color to go with I just know I dont want silver as when scrapped it turns grey. I like the black and I like the Zirconia but I know the black will be a sure way to go that will look good but I also know the engine is going to be nothing but Dark Corporate blue and black with only the sniper stealth being the old Holley gold color.

There's also the issue that black will radiate the most heat. And you are trying to keep as much of the heat in the header as is possible. That's why I went with a light color.

[Rusty_S85]

There's also the issue that black will radiate the most heat. And you are trying to keep as much of the heat in the header as is possible. That's why I went with a light color.

which is another reason why I am more and more leaning towards the Zirconia color. Only other option would be to just buy some VHT header paint and just paint the headers myself which I dont want to do as my goal is to prevent the underhood temps from going up from switching to headers from OE cast iron manifolds.

[Gary Lewis]

There's also the issue that black will radiate the most heat. And you are trying to keep as much of the heat in the header as is possible. That's why I went with a light color.

which is another reason why I am more and more leaning towards the Zirconia color. Only other option would be to just buy some VHT header paint and just paint the headers myself which I dont want to do as my goal is to prevent the underhood temps from going up from switching to headers from OE cast iron manifolds.

Yes, keeping the heat in was one of my goals. It lowers the temp under the hood awa increases efficiency. And a coating like you are talking about will not only help that dramatically, but it will last a lot longer than a high-temp paint job.

I don't know about the less expensive company you've found, but JetHot coats the inside as well as the outside. You won't have that with paint.

[Rusty_S85]

Yes, keeping the heat in was one of my goals. It lowers the temp under the hood awa increases efficiency. And a coating like you are talking about will not only help that dramatically, but it will last a lot longer than a high-temp paint job.

I don't know about the less expensive company you've found, but JetHot coats the inside as well as the outside. You won't have that with paint.

Correct, I want to minimize under hood heat cause I dont know how much heat the sniper can reliably handle let alone the DSII module.

From what Cradin informed me he said you really dont want ceramic coating on the inside, he said to me for the best thermal insulation I would want to have ceramic coating on the outside and a layer of soot on the inside to layer the insulating effect.

This is his website here. http://www.cradin.com/

He does all kinds of stuff from internal engine coats, to CNC machining, as well as aerospace work.

This is what it says under the Crading Aerospace header.

Cradin Aerospace, Inc. is a 100% woman owned and managed company. We handle all “aerospace” applications such as, material testing (Lockheed Martin) associated advanced material developers; aircraft component coatings (Mooney Aircraft, Texas Skyways and numerous homebuilders). We have done some repair application for Pratt & Whitney (San Antonio); manufacturer of the LUFA spherical bearings (both plain and rod ends) and so much more.

[grumpin]

Yes, keeping the heat in was one of my goals. It lowers the temp under the hood awa increases efficiency. And a coating like you are talking about will not only help that dramatically, but it will last a lot longer than a high-temp paint job.

I don't know about the less expensive company you've found, but JetHot coats the inside as well as the outside. You won't have that with paint.

Correct, I want to minimize under hood heat cause I dont know how much heat the sniper can reliably handle let alone the DSII module.

From what Cradin informed me he said you really dont want ceramic coating on the inside, he said to me for the best thermal insulation I would want to have ceramic coating on the outside and a layer of soot on the inside to layer the insulating effect.

This is his website here. http://www.cradin.com/

He does all kinds of stuff from internal engine coats, to CNC machining, as well as aerospace work.

This is what it says under the Crading Aerospace header.

Cradin Aerospace, Inc. is a 100% woman owned and managed company. We handle all “aerospace” applications such as, material testing (Lockheed Martin) associated advanced material developers; aircraft component coatings (Mooney Aircraft, Texas Skyways and numerous homebuilders). We have done some repair application for Pratt & Whitney (San Antonio); manufacturer of the LUFA spherical bearings (both plain and rod ends) and so much more.

Rusty and Gary, does the color really make a difference on something so thin that gets so hot?

I’m not being facetious about this, just curious.

[Gary Lewis]

Rusty and Gary, does the color really make a difference on something so thin that gets so hot?

I’m not being facetious about this, just curious.

All I know is what I've been told and read. Jet-Hot told me that the interior coating does as much for the heat reduction as the exterior does. And several places I talked to said they don't coat the interior as they cannot properly prep it.

As for the temp reduction, Jet-Hot's Classic polished coating reduces temps "up to 65%", while the Offroad coating, which is the one I got, reduces temps "40 - 43%" due to the lack of polish. And

seems to corroborate the 65%.

And from experiments my son and I did when he was a kid, the color makes a very big difference. We spray-painted squares of aluminum and put them in the sun and measure the temp. The coat of paint was probably about the thickness of the ceramic coating, and it made a really big difference. And while that was absorption, the text books all say that emission is the same as absorption.

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty and Gary, does the color really make a difference on something so thin that gets so hot?

I’m not being facetious about this, just curious.

Ive done reading online and I have seen it go both ways. There is one side that says color of coating doesnt matter as its the thickness of the coating providing the insulation effect then there is the other side that says color of coating does matter.

For me I keep leaning towards the zirconia color cause I just dont want to have too much black on my engine.

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty and Gary, does the color really make a difference on something so thin that gets so hot?

I’m not being facetious about this, just curious.

Ive done reading online and I have seen it go both ways. There is one side that says color of coating doesnt matter as its the thickness of the coating providing the insulation effect then there is the other side that says color of coating does matter.

For me I keep leaning towards the zirconia color cause I just dont want to have too much black on my engine.

Well I just got word, my Summit order with the -6 AN tee with 1/8 NPT port for my fuel line didnt ship yesterday and now it is slated to be back in stock 1/20/2022 so I can buy them off ebay but they are priced gouged between $30 and $60 not including the shipping for a $18 part.

I also just got out of chat with Jegs support and they are now telling my my pushrods which I was told Friday would ship out on the 15th is now showing that there is now no estimated date to ship.

I am finding it very hard to not curse right now because they are using this bs excuse of global shortage as their go to so they can be lazy and not get parts made and this isnt jegs or summit, pushrods are always shipped by the manfacturer its the manfacturers that are being lazy. You cant tell me that over the shut down last year that everyone bought up every stock of ford pushrods in 6.40" length with 0.120" wall thickness. Thats not OE stock length so I dont believe they would be out of stock. The woman I chatted with said she would call Manley tomorrow and get to the bottom of this and email me tomorrow I thanked her for that cause I told her an email wont work cause three different guys last week on jegs support emailed them and they never got back with me with a reply and I emailed Manley back in September to ask them if they had any in stock cause some guys were saying that the manufacturer had the parts but the parts house was saying no till they got enough orders in to make a bulk order to save money but never got a email back from Manley.

As of right now I cant do anything. I cant make fuel lines cause I dont have the Tee I need. I cant prime the oil system and check oil pressure so I can install the pressure sender cause I dont have the pushrods. I cant torque the crank bolt till I get the spark plugs in and I dont want to do that as they will have to be removed again to rotate the engine over to set valve lash.

I guess what I will end up doing is this weekend pulling the powersteering pump pulley off and removing the aluminum bracket and get ready to refinish that and pull the alternator bracket and spray the cast iron color paint ontop the zinc phosphate coating I sprayed a couple years ago.