Fuel Injection upgrade

[Gary Lewis]

Rusty, the O2 sensor location on the later OBDI trucks is back behind the Y, just before the cat. I am using that location on Darth for my wideband sensor. I have the control sensors in each downpipe from my manifolds as my OBDII system uses one for each bank allowing it to tweak the injectors more precisely.

Correct, on a factory fuel injection system and if I had one that is what I would do as well. Holley like FiTech isnt capable of reading both banks with individual sensors and they state to place the sensor so many inches from the collector which means they want the single sensor to read just one bank. Not sure if there would be an adverse effect moving the sensor to read both banks but from my understanding the father you get from the collector the more lag time you have for adjustments and the closer you are the less lag time you have for adjustments but too close and the heat kills the O2 sensors so you have to find a good compromise between lag time and not getting too hot.

I dont know how hot my headers will have the exhaust at the O2 sensor location in the collector but considering I will be doing highway driving quite a bit at 75 mph @ 2,750 rpm ideally that could kill the O2 sensor as well.

My O2 bungs are in the reducers or adapters that connect the headers to the exhaust pipes. Right now I'm only using one and it is for the wide-band AFR meter. But when I put the EEC-IV EFI system on I'll use those for the EFI system and have to add one downstream for the AFR meter.

[Rusty_S85]

My O2 bungs are in the reducers or adapters that connect the headers to the exhaust pipes. Right now I'm only using one and it is for the wide-band AFR meter. But when I put the EEC-IV EFI system on I'll use those for the EFI system and have to add one downstream for the AFR meter.

Mine is positioned here which I am going to plug with a O2 sensor plug.

[Gary Lewis]

My O2 bungs are in the reducers or adapters that connect the headers to the exhaust pipes. Right now I'm only using one and it is for the wide-band AFR meter. But when I put the EEC-IV EFI system on I'll use those for the EFI system and have to add one downstream for the AFR meter.

Mine is positioned here which I am going to plug with a O2 sensor plug.

That is CLOSE!

[Rusty_S85]

That is CLOSE!

lol Yep thats why I was worried about it cause you have the pipes for cylinder 3 and 4 pointed right at the sensor and because the sensor is so close cylinders 1 and 2 wont be blowing exhaust across the sensor. I have a few O2 sensor plugs I will just send the headers out to ceramic coat after I clearance the headers to fit then I will plug the header. Then when I get the Y pipe from Flowmaster I will plug the one in the cross over pipe in the Y and mark it and take it to a local exhaust shop to weld a bung in on the stainless pipe.

[ratdude747]

That is CLOSE!

Probably designed for a non-heated O2 sensor. The one on my feedback carbed 300 is also right at the collector. The idea was by putting the sensor there it would get enough heat from the exhaust to function.

I since redid mine to use a heated O2 sensor (rerouted the O2 grounding wire, bonded to heater ground at the connector, and ran heater power and ground wires to the existing EEC power circuit) so I could move it if I wanted to... but no need; it works fine as-is (all the heated O2 does is get me into closed loop faster and provide an easier to obtain sensor).

[Rusty_S85]

Probably designed for a non-heated O2 sensor. The one on my feedback carbed 300 is also right at the collector. The idea was by putting the sensor there it would get enough heat from the exhaust to function.

I since redid mine to use a heated O2 sensor (rerouted the O2 grounding wire, bonded to heater ground at the connector, and ran heater power and ground wires to the existing EEC power circuit) so I could move it if I wanted to... but no need; it works fine as-is (all the heated O2 does is get me into closed loop faster and provide an easier to obtain sensor).

It very well could be cause these headers are 1986 - 1996 fitment. Should work perfectly fine on my '82 as the part number for Y pipes were the same up to 1986 in the parts and illustration guide. If they fit just fine in the end then these headers would be a great bolt in for people that want a little more performance but dont want to go full length header.

[Rusty_S85]

Probably designed for a non-heated O2 sensor. The one on my feedback carbed 300 is also right at the collector. The idea was by putting the sensor there it would get enough heat from the exhaust to function.

I since redid mine to use a heated O2 sensor (rerouted the O2 grounding wire, bonded to heater ground at the connector, and ran heater power and ground wires to the existing EEC power circuit) so I could move it if I wanted to... but no need; it works fine as-is (all the heated O2 does is get me into closed loop faster and provide an easier to obtain sensor).

It very well could be cause these headers are 1986 - 1996 fitment. Should work perfectly fine on my '82 as the part number for Y pipes were the same up to 1986 in the parts and illustration guide. If they fit just fine in the end then these headers would be a great bolt in for people that want a little more performance but dont want to go full length header.

Not progress to report as of today. I did get my 1 1/2" long ARP bolts in to tighten up the thermostat housing and I got that done. But I havent done anything else as the stainless steel AN tube nut and sleeves I ordered last Wed which should have been thrown in a mailer due to how small wont be delivered till Monday. The pushrods I ordered August 5, 2021 have not been shipped as of today and today was the listed day it should ship, on Jegs site it is now listing Nov 8 as the ship date on the product page which I need to check with them tomorrow if the ship date has been pushed back cause this is starting to bother me and there is no other option for me to use in another brand to get it sooner. I might have to start calling them daily till they get this straightened out for me cause I think I have been understanding for well more than I should seeing as Nov 5 will be the start of 3 months waiting and that is unacceptable for something as simple as a set of pushrods. You cant tell me that the economy got so screwed up that people in their time off bought up all the pushrods and that something as oddball as a 5/16" x 6.400" pushrod with a swedged tip and 0.120" wall thickness is completely out of stock.

Aside from that the fittings I bought for the sniper were wrong, they were -6 straight cut O ring to -6 male AN, what I need is a -8 straight cut O ring to a -6 male AN which I have on order and should get it from Summit Tuesday. I also ordered a Hays HD SFI 29.1 flexplate for my build, 164-tooth (correct tooth count for a sbf C6 truck), 50 oz external imbalance. The flexplate is 14.240" diameter with a 1.750 center bore register diameter and a 11.50" converter bolt pattern. Strangely enough Summit states this flexplate in the fitment page cites it as fitting 82 - 95 302 small block windsors with a AOD, AODE, or C4. No mention of a C6 fitment, I double checked Hughes XTM converter as thats what I will be using on my truck with the new C6 it lists the F43XTM as having a 11.50" converter bolt pattern and a 1.375" converter pilot. Jegs as well as holley states this flex plate will fit with no mention of transmission. So I have this flex plate on order and should be here tuesday as well. Only thing that wont be in till November 15th is my -6AN male tee with a 1/8" pipe pressure port in the tee itself. I have a pressure port take off which I was going to use with my carb setup but now going sniper stealth I didnt want to have an extra fitting when I can just use a tee with the pressure port made into it.

So I dont know when I will get started on making some real progress on my engine build. Dont know when my pushrods will ship cause there is no estimate on my order page on Jegs, I have to wait till later on in November to get my tee so I can start making the fuel injection lines, I still have to pull brackets off my old engine so I can clean them up and paint them I need to also figure out exactly what size the large bolt in the front of the head is I suspect it is 7/16" cause I need to buy a new bolt for my alternator bracket. I also have to decide if I want to leave it in the Eastwoods Zinc Phosphate which is a charcoal greyish color not to be confused with a cast iron grey or if I should scuff it up and shoot it with some low gloss under hood black. I know the steel brackets for the AC compressor and the steel support bracket for the powersteering pump will be paint black as they are steel.

I also saw a post the other day about this one guy not having the head bolt in his AFR 185 heads for his ford powersteering pump pivot bolt. That is something I am afraid of myself right now as AFR states it has all the OE mounting points on the heads to accept factory brackets. I dont know if the guy is using a obsolete bracket from the early 60s and AFR is using later model bracket mounts but I know my alternator/airpump bracket lines up with the three bolts in the passenger head.

[85lebaront2]

Not progress to report as of today. I did get my 1 1/2" long ARP bolts in to tighten up the thermostat housing and I got that done. But I havent done anything else as the stainless steel AN tube nut and sleeves I ordered last Wed which should have been thrown in a mailer due to how small wont be delivered till Monday. The pushrods I ordered August 5, 2021 have not been shipped as of today and today was the listed day it should ship, on Jegs site it is now listing Nov 8 as the ship date on the product page which I need to check with them tomorrow if the ship date has been pushed back cause this is starting to bother me and there is no other option for me to use in another brand to get it sooner. I might have to start calling them daily till they get this straightened out for me cause I think I have been understanding for well more than I should seeing as Nov 5 will be the start of 3 months waiting and that is unacceptable for something as simple as a set of pushrods. You cant tell me that the economy got so screwed up that people in their time off bought up all the pushrods and that something as oddball as a 5/16" x 6.400" pushrod with a swedged tip and 0.120" wall thickness is completely out of stock.

Aside from that the fittings I bought for the sniper were wrong, they were -6 straight cut O ring to -6 male AN, what I need is a -8 straight cut O ring to a -6 male AN which I have on order and should get it from Summit Tuesday. I also ordered a Hays HD SFI 29.1 flexplate for my build, 164-tooth (correct tooth count for a sbf C6 truck), 50 oz external imbalance. The flexplate is 14.240" diameter with a 1.750 center bore register diameter and a 11.50" converter bolt pattern. Strangely enough Summit states this flexplate in the fitment page cites it as fitting 82 - 95 302 small block windsors with a AOD, AODE, or C4. No mention of a C6 fitment, I double checked Hughes XTM converter as thats what I will be using on my truck with the new C6 it lists the F43XTM as having a 11.50" converter bolt pattern and a 1.375" converter pilot. Jegs as well as holley states this flex plate will fit with no mention of transmission. So I have this flex plate on order and should be here tuesday as well. Only thing that wont be in till November 15th is my -6AN male tee with a 1/8" pipe pressure port in the tee itself. I have a pressure port take off which I was going to use with my carb setup but now going sniper stealth I didnt want to have an extra fitting when I can just use a tee with the pressure port made into it.

So I dont know when I will get started on making some real progress on my engine build. Dont know when my pushrods will ship cause there is no estimate on my order page on Jegs, I have to wait till later on in November to get my tee so I can start making the fuel injection lines, I still have to pull brackets off my old engine so I can clean them up and paint them I need to also figure out exactly what size the large bolt in the front of the head is I suspect it is 7/16" cause I need to buy a new bolt for my alternator bracket. I also have to decide if I want to leave it in the Eastwoods Zinc Phosphate which is a charcoal greyish color not to be confused with a cast iron grey or if I should scuff it up and shoot it with some low gloss under hood black. I know the steel brackets for the AC compressor and the steel support bracket for the powersteering pump will be paint black as they are steel.

I also saw a post the other day about this one guy not having the head bolt in his AFR 185 heads for his ford powersteering pump pivot bolt. That is something I am afraid of myself right now as AFR states it has all the OE mounting points on the heads to accept factory brackets. I dont know if the guy is using a obsolete bracket from the early 60s and AFR is using later model bracket mounts but I know my alternator/airpump bracket lines up with the three bolts in the passenger head.

Rusty, the one who posted about not having the pivot bolt hole for the power steering. You may be correct in the thought he has an earlier pump mount. Ford had some interesting accesory brackets in the 80s. Each head had a "universal" bracket, oval shaped on the passenger side and similar with no AC on the driver side. With AC the compressor mount had two threaded holes for the power steering pump as it wasn't a direct match to the holes. The upper hole was used on 302s, lower on 351s, on the passenger side, oval bracket went threaded hole up on a 302, down on a 351. This way the accesories were in the same location relative to the crank and water pump so the stamped plates for alternator and power steering pump were the same along with the drive belts.

An FYI, any stamped brackets are steel, cast ones are grey iron unless aluminum. Thankfully the front dress on the EFI 460s all the cast brackets are aluminum, not iron. The alternator/air pump mount on Darth was a huge chunk of cast iron.

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty, the one who posted about not having the pivot bolt hole for the power steering. You may be correct in the thought he has an earlier pump mount. Ford had some interesting accesory brackets in the 80s. Each head had a "universal" bracket, oval shaped on the passenger side and similar with no AC on the driver side. With AC the compressor mount had two threaded holes for the power steering pump as it wasn't a direct match to the holes. The upper hole was used on 302s, lower on 351s, on the passenger side, oval bracket went threaded hole up on a 302, down on a 351. This way the accesories were in the same location relative to the crank and water pump so the stamped plates for alternator and power steering pump were the same along with the drive belts.

An FYI, any stamped brackets are steel, cast ones are grey iron unless aluminum. Thankfully the front dress on the EFI 460s all the cast brackets are aluminum, not iron. The alternator/air pump mount on Darth was a huge chunk of cast iron.

Why I want to double check mine to make sure but it should be the same cause the accessory bolts on the front of the heads look similar to that of the OE mountings.

Right, on the material and I know they wouldnt have painted the cast iron they would have left them natural color just like the cast aluminum would have been left natural. The color I have my alternator bracket which is cast iron painted now looks some what like cast iron just a bit darker, but since I am going to be buying the black paint most likely from east wood for the stamped steel plates for the ac compressor and powersteering pump to paint them black as well as the pullies Im thinking about getting their cast aluminum and cast iron paint color as well. The add on pulley to the crank that bolts on to add the dealer AC option to my truck looks to be cast iron in its rough texture not stamped steel like the regular pulley so I am tempted to paint that one cast iron as well.

I will be mounting hopefully the alternator bracket this weekend if I can get the bolts ordered for it then I can post a photo to see if I should just leave it the zinc phosphate color or respray it in the cast iron gray color.

~Update~

I dont know if anyone ever bought from Allens Fasteners but I came across them when trying to find a 7/16-14 x 1" bolt for the OE alternator bracket to the cylinder head. ARP doesnt offer one on their site unless its custom order and Summit has no listing but Allens Fasteners has ARP bolts individually in that size so I purchased from him the following fasteners

x2) 3/8-16 x 1" hex

x4) 7/16-14 x 1" hex

x4) 7/16" x 0.660" OD x 0.120" thick washer w/chamfer

x4) 3/8" x 0.625" OD x 0.063" thick washer w/ chamfer

so 6 bolts and 8 washers, which is 1 bolt and 3 washers more than a standard ARP package which goes for $25.00, the base price was $23.32 and I got hit for $9.45 USPS Priority shipping bringing my total to $32.77.

I will post a little review on here if the company seems to be legit and is quality. I will also update my initial post if I can after all this time and add their link to where I would start getting my fasteners for since they are cheaper than through summit or amazon.

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty, the one who posted about not having the pivot bolt hole for the power steering. You may be correct in the thought he has an earlier pump mount. Ford had some interesting accesory brackets in the 80s. Each head had a "universal" bracket, oval shaped on the passenger side and similar with no AC on the driver side. With AC the compressor mount had two threaded holes for the power steering pump as it wasn't a direct match to the holes. The upper hole was used on 302s, lower on 351s, on the passenger side, oval bracket went threaded hole up on a 302, down on a 351. This way the accesories were in the same location relative to the crank and water pump so the stamped plates for alternator and power steering pump were the same along with the drive belts.

An FYI, any stamped brackets are steel, cast ones are grey iron unless aluminum. Thankfully the front dress on the EFI 460s all the cast brackets are aluminum, not iron. The alternator/air pump mount on Darth was a huge chunk of cast iron.

Why I want to double check mine to make sure but it should be the same cause the accessory bolts on the front of the heads look similar to that of the OE mountings.

Right, on the material and I know they wouldnt have painted the cast iron they would have left them natural color just like the cast aluminum would have been left natural. The color I have my alternator bracket which is cast iron painted now looks some what like cast iron just a bit darker, but since I am going to be buying the black paint most likely from east wood for the stamped steel plates for the ac compressor and powersteering pump to paint them black as well as the pullies Im thinking about getting their cast aluminum and cast iron paint color as well. The add on pulley to the crank that bolts on to add the dealer AC option to my truck looks to be cast iron in its rough texture not stamped steel like the regular pulley so I am tempted to paint that one cast iron as well.

I will be mounting hopefully the alternator bracket this weekend if I can get the bolts ordered for it then I can post a photo to see if I should just leave it the zinc phosphate color or respray it in the cast iron gray color.

~Update~

I dont know if anyone ever bought from Allens Fasteners but I came across them when trying to find a 7/16-14 x 1" bolt for the OE alternator bracket to the cylinder head. ARP doesnt offer one on their site unless its custom order and Summit has no listing but Allens Fasteners has ARP bolts individually in that size so I purchased from him the following fasteners

x2) 3/8-16 x 1" hex

x4) 7/16-14 x 1" hex

x4) 7/16" x 0.660" OD x 0.120" thick washer w/chamfer

x4) 3/8" x 0.625" OD x 0.063" thick washer w/ chamfer

so 6 bolts and 8 washers, which is 1 bolt and 3 washers more than a standard ARP package which goes for $25.00, the base price was $23.32 and I got hit for $9.45 USPS Priority shipping bringing my total to $32.77.

I will post a little review on here if the company seems to be legit and is quality. I will also update my initial post if I can after all this time and add their link to where I would start getting my fasteners for since they are cheaper than through summit or amazon.

Hedman finally emailed me today during lunch. The reply I got was asking me what heads do I have then with a statement that the Hedman headers are set up for stock heads and wont clear aftermarket heads. I replied to the email to state that I have AFR Renegade 165cc street heads which are a stock patterned aftermarket head that accepts all factory components outside of emissions on my specific model. I even checked Hedmans website and it states on my headers that the headers fit Stock Profile Heads which is what mine is.

I havent gotten a reply back probably tomorrow but I did email AFR asking them if stock manifolds/headers will fit as I am being told the Hedman street headers only fit stock heads. Something else I need to look into is the ledge at the bottom of the heads below each exhaust port. The headers I have is fitting snug against these ledges and it seems many people in the early 2000s had that issue with other brand of headers and the quick and dirty fix is to cut off the bottom of the flange for clearance. Im tempted to try this as I dont have the gaskets installed but many state with gaskets the flange will fit properly.