Fuel Injection upgrade

[Gary Lewis]

Engine looks fantastic! Hopefully it will run as good as it looks.

Hope so too. Based off the so called dyno specs for the 302 that blueprint sells I could very well make between 375 - 400 hp. They rate theirs at 380 hp I think but they are using in house heads that flow 9 cfm less than my heads at the same lift but using 2.02"/1.60" valves with a 60cc chamber where my CNC machined AFRs are running 1.95"/1.60" valves with a 58cc chamber. The cam is a little smaller than what blueprint offers but that shouldnt hinder performance that much considering the extra flow my heads have over theirs.

I agree, it looks fantastic! Well done!

And I like the idea of the brackets, pulleys, etc being black. Maybe the coil as well?

Shame that the supply chain has gotten so clogged up and you can't get the push rods. And from what I'm seeing it'll be quite some time before things get back to normal.

Still, this will give you time to do the other things, like the brackets, fuel line routing, etc. It'll be great when you are done.

The coil bracket will be black along with the coil itself, the coil will be a OE DSII coil as I am retaining DSII for now.

I have been thinking about tossing the 1/4" thick heat isolator gasket to try and drop the throttle body down some the more I look at it the more I think its a little too high. I also didnt get to torque the intake manifold down to 20ft lbs, I need to do it though so I can check the ultra black silicone on the china walls and make sure it is squishing the dried silicone when I torque it down. My paperwork for the intake states to run a 1/4" tall bead and I dont think I was at 1/4" thick. At least now if I have to redo it the only thing I would be out is the some $20 for the fel pro intake gaskets and just clean off the silicone and redo it.

I did buy two heater hose fittings for the intake manifold off amazon, I was looking at a black edelbrock fitting to go with the black arp bolts and the black pipe plugs in the intake. But I just couldnt justify spending $35 for just one fitting. So I bought two off amazon an AC Delco Professional brand one that looks OE looking at least OE looking for Chevrolet not so much for Ford but its a steel fitting that I will have to paint to prevent rust.

Then I picked up this one which is clear anodized aluminum, this is the one I want to use but if it hits the intake manifold then I will use the AC Delco one. If I dont use the AC Delco one I can take it to work and sell it to a customer on another job and get my money back so its no loss.

I tried looking up a NOS factory one but the number I got from the parts book kept bringing up 45* elbows for 1950s and 1960s Ford engines which I know is not correct, the OE one on my truck is a 90* fitting so my only other option was a stainless steel one that looked similar to the second image above but they are out of stock till December.

I should get these fittings by this weekend so I can install it and then start taking measurements and deciding how I want to proceed as far as the spacers goes and the routing of the stainless steel hardline. I got enough coiled hardline I can start making some but I am still trying to source a new coil bracket but all I am finding is generic replacements not one like my OE one that has the raised platform for the noise capacitor

The top hose fitting looks OE to me, even for a Ford. The 2nd one is prettier, but if you are going to paint it anyway I think the top one would be my pick.

On the china wall seal, look it over VERY closely. As you know, it'll be far easier to redo it now than when you've installed the engine and find a leak. And leak? Those things leak badly!

I think before I torqued it down I'd go poking on the RTV. See if it has adhered to the intake. If not, I'd redo it as you want it stuck to both top and bottom, not just the bottom and touching the top.

[Rusty_S85]

The top hose fitting looks OE to me, even for a Ford. The 2nd one is prettier, but if you are going to paint it anyway I think the top one would be my pick.

On the china wall seal, look it over VERY closely. As you know, it'll be far easier to redo it now than when you've installed the engine and find a leak. And leak? Those things leak badly!

I think before I torqued it down I'd go poking on the RTV. See if it has adhered to the intake. If not, I'd redo it as you want it stuck to both top and bottom, not just the bottom and touching the top.

Only the top one would be painted if I use it cause its bare steel and I know it will rust. The clear anodized aluminum one if I use that it will be left as is.

Thats the thing I am afraid of I just got in from going over the intake at first 10 ft lbs and then 20ft lbs and its hard to tell if the silicone compressed or not. What I did was ran the bead then set the intake down and lightly snug the bolts down to get the intake to touch the silicone then let cure over night before torquing to spec. The rear I could see squeezed out a good amount but I didnt see no squeeze out on the front like I did on the back but that doesnt mean anything. Not sure how I could go about checking it without damaging it and forcing it to have to be redone. Both front and rear were done with silicone at the same height so they should both be sealed. I also rather fix it now if there is a problem cause sure it wouldnt be hard in the truck but you now have coolant that is going to pour out and get into the crank case and its just less hassle now.

Thats the only thing that sucks cause I put a thick bead, no thicker/thinner than I do at work and never had a problem with sealing. But then I saw the paperwork and it said 1/4" tall bead and I am like jesus I think my bead wasnt 1/4 inch unless I am thinking 5/16 inch and I actually had 1/4 inch.

[Rusty_S85]

The top hose fitting looks OE to me, even for a Ford. The 2nd one is prettier, but if you are going to paint it anyway I think the top one would be my pick.

On the china wall seal, look it over VERY closely. As you know, it'll be far easier to redo it now than when you've installed the engine and find a leak. And leak? Those things leak badly!

I think before I torqued it down I'd go poking on the RTV. See if it has adhered to the intake. If not, I'd redo it as you want it stuck to both top and bottom, not just the bottom and touching the top.

Only the top one would be painted if I use it cause its bare steel and I know it will rust. The clear anodized aluminum one if I use that it will be left as is.

Thats the thing I am afraid of I just got in from going over the intake at first 10 ft lbs and then 20ft lbs and its hard to tell if the silicone compressed or not. What I did was ran the bead then set the intake down and lightly snug the bolts down to get the intake to touch the silicone then let cure over night before torquing to spec. The rear I could see squeezed out a good amount but I didnt see no squeeze out on the front like I did on the back but that doesnt mean anything. Not sure how I could go about checking it without damaging it and forcing it to have to be redone. Both front and rear were done with silicone at the same height so they should both be sealed. I also rather fix it now if there is a problem cause sure it wouldnt be hard in the truck but you now have coolant that is going to pour out and get into the crank case and its just less hassle now.

Thats the only thing that sucks cause I put a thick bead, no thicker/thinner than I do at work and never had a problem with sealing. But then I saw the paperwork and it said 1/4" tall bead and I am like jesus I think my bead wasnt 1/4 inch unless I am thinking 5/16 inch and I actually had 1/4 inch.

I got my two heater hose fittings in today, I am going to use the anodized aluminum one as it matches in appearance very close to the raw stainless steel oil pressure sending unit extension.

The Anodized Aluminum fitting, I like the look as well as the low profile nature that will keep the heater hose low.

This is the AC Delco bare steel fitting which if I use it I will paint it the same as the rest of the motor

While the AC Delco one does look more OE looking it just doesnt look that good to me compared to the lower profile nature of the Anodized Aluminum fitting.

Photo of the raw stainless steel 6" long oil pressure extension that I lightly threaded in. Will apply ARP thread sealer and tighten in place this weekend.

And this last photo is the NOS motorcraft temp sensor that I lightly threaded in as I was curious if it was the right size or if I would need a bushing. I lucked out as all fittings wont need a bushing and because I drilled and tapped the sniper temp sensor location the right size it too will not have a bushing and will have a more factory look.

Im waiting how ever on my two engine mounts, transmission mount and high flow failsafe thermostat to come in so I can bolt the engine mounts on and install the thermostat and housing. I still am trying to decide what I want to do as far as hose clamps goes. Part of me wanted to run the spring clamps like late model OE vehicles use but not sure how well it will work on the water pump bypass. Like wise I havent even tried to see if I can find them in the radiator hose sizes.

Today I ordered from rockauto cause it didnt show up the other day when I ordered the mounts and thermostat but it does now, they had a motorcraft oil pressure sending unit, part number doesnt match the one listed for my truck in the parts and illustration book which is D4AZ-9278-A where as the one I ordered from Rock Auto is E6ZF-9D290-CA. Im hopeful its a updated replacement and its not a simple on/off where my oil pressure gauge will just sit in the middle regardless of pressure. I know Ford brought sensors like that out after lots of people complained about low reading on the oil pressure gauge even though it was still with in normal range. But I wanted NOS and this was the cheapest priced one listed for my truck with gauge.

[Gary Lewis]

I got my two heater hose fittings in today, I am going to use the anodized aluminum one as it matches in appearance very close to the raw stainless steel oil pressure sending unit extension.

The Anodized Aluminum fitting, I like the look as well as the low profile nature that will keep the heater hose low.

This is the AC Delco bare steel fitting which if I use it I will paint it the same as the rest of the motor

While the AC Delco one does look more OE looking it just doesnt look that good to me compared to the lower profile nature of the Anodized Aluminum fitting.

Photo of the raw stainless steel 6" long oil pressure extension that I lightly threaded in. Will apply ARP thread sealer and tighten in place this weekend.

And this last photo is the NOS motorcraft temp sensor that I lightly threaded in as I was curious if it was the right size or if I would need a bushing. I lucked out as all fittings wont need a bushing and because I drilled and tapped the sniper temp sensor location the right size it too will not have a bushing and will have a more factory look.

Im waiting how ever on my two engine mounts, transmission mount and high flow failsafe thermostat to come in so I can bolt the engine mounts on and install the thermostat and housing. I still am trying to decide what I want to do as far as hose clamps goes. Part of me wanted to run the spring clamps like late model OE vehicles use but not sure how well it will work on the water pump bypass. Like wise I havent even tried to see if I can find them in the radiator hose sizes.

Today I ordered from rockauto cause it didnt show up the other day when I ordered the mounts and thermostat but it does now, they had a motorcraft oil pressure sending unit, part number doesnt match the one listed for my truck in the parts and illustration book which is D4AZ-9278-A where as the one I ordered from Rock Auto is E6ZF-9D290-CA. Im hopeful its a updated replacement and its not a simple on/off where my oil pressure gauge will just sit in the middle regardless of pressure. I know Ford brought sensors like that out after lots of people complained about low reading on the oil pressure gauge even though it was still with in normal range. But I wanted NOS and this was the cheapest priced one listed for my truck with gauge.

I do like the lower hose fitting.

But is the ARP stuff really thread sealer? Or is it their lube?

On the sending unit, I can't find the E6 # anywhere, so can't help you there.

But it is looking good!

[Rusty_S85]

I do like the lower hose fitting.

But is the ARP stuff really thread sealer? Or is it their lube?

On the sending unit, I can't find the E6 # anywhere, so can't help you there.

But it is looking good!

ARP has two, they have lube which I have in the bottle and they have thread sealer in a tube which I have also that I use for pipe plugs and any bolts that thread into coolant. I actually used it on the head bolts on the inside of the valve cover as all of those on this late model F1SE block go into coolant while the outside ones are blind.

This is the liquid thread sealer.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9904

This is the thread lubricant

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9910

Yep that number isnt in the book but on rockauto it also has SW1547B as the rockauto number and I see that number listed under the part number E4ZZ-9278-A which appears to fit 1988 E150/350 7.3L, 82/83 F150 230 I6, 80/87 E-F150/350 F(Super Duty) U150 8 cyl all, 88/ E150/350 4.9L, and 86/87 A 140 I4 and 171 I6. It is also all under the oil pressure gauge and not under the light.

[Gary Lewis]

I do like the lower hose fitting.

But is the ARP stuff really thread sealer? Or is it their lube?

On the sending unit, I can't find the E6 # anywhere, so can't help you there.

But it is looking good!

ARP has two, they have lube which I have in the bottle and they have thread sealer in a tube which I have also that I use for pipe plugs and any bolts that thread into coolant. I actually used it on the head bolts on the inside of the valve cover as all of those on this late model F1SE block go into coolant while the outside ones are blind.

This is the liquid thread sealer.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9904

This is the thread lubricant

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9910

Yep that number isnt in the book but on rockauto it also has SW1547B as the rockauto number and I see that number listed under the part number E4ZZ-9278-A which appears to fit 1988 E150/350 7.3L, 82/83 F150 230 I6, 80/87 E-F150/350 F(Super Duty) U150 8 cyl all, 88/ E150/350 4.9L, and 86/87 A 140 I4 and 171 I6. It is also all under the oil pressure gauge and not under the light.

Thanks for the clarification. Hadn't seen the ARP sealer.

As for the sender, that says the E-Series van didn't go to the new gauge & sending units in 88 when the F-Series did.

[Rusty_S85]

Thanks for the clarification. Hadn't seen the ARP sealer.

As for the sender, that says the E-Series van didn't go to the new gauge & sending units in 88 when the F-Series did.

The sealer I never heard off till some 8 years ago when I started at my current job and that stuff works great the only thing is its hard to prevent squeeze out when you install the fitting and its also hard to wipe up cause it likes to smear till you get it all wiped up.

Yep but it also says for the I6`s the same sender was used on vans 88 and up. Its very confusing just like I have heard it go both ways with the later senders basically being an oil activated switch for the later models that above x psi the switch sends a steady resistance so the oil pressure gauge will read in the middle. Some people claim this was a real legit thing and ive seen some state it wasnt.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for the clarification. Hadn't seen the ARP sealer.

As for the sender, that says the E-Series van didn't go to the new gauge & sending units in 88 when the F-Series did.

The sealer I never heard off till some 8 years ago when I started at my current job and that stuff works great the only thing is its hard to prevent squeeze out when you install the fitting and its also hard to wipe up cause it likes to smear till you get it all wiped up.

Yep but it also says for the I6`s the same sender was used on vans 88 and up. Its very confusing just like I have heard it go both ways with the later senders basically being an oil activated switch for the later models that above x psi the switch sends a steady resistance so the oil pressure gauge will read in the middle. Some people claim this was a real legit thing and ive seen some state it wasnt.

See what you think of TSB 88-05-14.

[Rusty_S85]

See what you think of TSB 88-05-14.

So that is exactly what I have heard mentioned before that so many people complained about the oil pressure gauge reading on the low side of normal when they expect it to ride on the high side so the fix was a new sender that operates more like a on off switch like with an indiciator light that would put the pressure gauge in the middle to comfort the people.

Looks like the sender they used is E6SZ-9278-A which is not the number of the sender that I ordered. It also seems like this fix only applies to the 87 and up trucks not the 80-86 truck.

Hopefully it reads and works like a regular gauge sender and not the later on-off switch sender. This is only going to be a temporary setup till I can get Dakota Digital to offer a retro cluster for our trucks. I have plans to get a sniper to dakota digital module where my temp gauge will run off the sniper temp sensor, rpm will be off the sniper rpm signal, etc. I also want to use a module for air fuel ratio and fuel pressure that way I can have it throw a warning up on the dakota digital cluster to inform me when my O2 sensor fails by going full rich as well as warning me when the fuel pressure falls outside of the 55 to 65 psi pressure range. That way I can diagnosis my sniper on the road without the hand held. If I see no tach movement when cranking then I know the sniper has lost rpm signal for example and is why its not starting.

[Gary Lewis]

See what you think of TSB 88-05-14.

So that is exactly what I have heard mentioned before that so many people complained about the oil pressure gauge reading on the low side of normal when they expect it to ride on the high side so the fix was a new sender that operates more like a on off switch like with an indiciator light that would put the pressure gauge in the middle to comfort the people.

Looks like the sender they used is E6SZ-9278-A which is not the number of the sender that I ordered. It also seems like this fix only applies to the 87 and up trucks not the 80-86 truck.

Hopefully it reads and works like a regular gauge sender and not the later on-off switch sender. This is only going to be a temporary setup till I can get Dakota Digital to offer a retro cluster for our trucks. I have plans to get a sniper to dakota digital module where my temp gauge will run off the sniper temp sensor, rpm will be off the sniper rpm signal, etc. I also want to use a module for air fuel ratio and fuel pressure that way I can have it throw a warning up on the dakota digital cluster to inform me when my O2 sensor fails by going full rich as well as warning me when the fuel pressure falls outside of the 55 to 65 psi pressure range. That way I can diagnosis my sniper on the road without the hand held. If I see no tach movement when cranking then I know the sniper has lost rpm signal for example and is why its not starting.

Sounds like a good plan.