Fuel Injection upgrade

[Gary Lewis]

I talked with Roger at Jet Hot in OKC. Just called them up.

Ill give them a call. Im not in a rush just yet to send the headers out, I really want to bolt them up to the engine loosely after paint and see how they look in black and then I can use the photo and photoshop to try different colors offered to see what I think would look good.

I dont mind paying $400 for ceramic coating for these headers. I got them uncoated cause the only coatings offered from Hedman was the tacky looking silver or the black. I got them painted so I could have them done in a color that I like.

I think I paid $450 for Jet Hot coating my full L&L headers.

[Rusty_S85]

I talked with Roger at Jet Hot in OKC. Just called them up.

Ill give them a call. Im not in a rush just yet to send the headers out, I really want to bolt them up to the engine loosely after paint and see how they look in black and then I can use the photo and photoshop to try different colors offered to see what I think would look good.

I dont mind paying $400 for ceramic coating for these headers. I got them uncoated cause the only coatings offered from Hedman was the tacky looking silver or the black. I got them painted so I could have them done in a color that I like.

Made some progress and delayed at the same time.

First off I installed the head gaskets and torqued the heads down to 70ft lbs as ARP stated in their head bolt kit. My felpro gasket set stated to torque the bottom bolts to 70ft lbs and the upper bolts under the valve cover to 80 ft lbs. Sorry I dont see the need of doing that and ARP stresses to use their torque specs unless they state to use OE torque specs. The gasket also stated to make sure the sealing ring doesnt over hang into the combustion chamber or the chamfer. Well it looks like the top part of the chamfer it is hanging over just slightly which I dont know how a 4.100" bore head gasket would do that on a 4.040" bore but I let it ride cause it was located on the dowels and everything else lined up.

Secondly I used the duplicolor industrial strength paint stripper on my NOS Ford oil pan that was painted engine grey inside and outside. I just cant trust that paint not softening up over time from the oil and letting go and clogging up the pickup on my oil pump. It took half a can to bubble up the paint on the inside of the pan but it is bare metal clean now. I sprayed the last half of the can on the exterior but after 2 1/2 hours of sitting the paint was still bubbling up so I tossed it in the garage to let it continue bubbling up over night so I can get it fully stripped down as well.

Third I put the GMB high performance aluminum water pump on but found out the ARP bolt kit lacks the proper bolts for its listed application. 9 of the bolts in the 15 bolt kit are the wrong size, they are either too short or too long. The longest bolt in the kit which should have been for the passengerside lower water pump bolt through the cover to the block which is where the alternator adjuster mounts to. Well placing the bolt and washer on the outside of the water pump I found out the bolt is 1 1/2" away from even touching the block. But it fits perfectly on the driver side lower water pump mount to the block. Then the four bolts through the aluminum water pump into the aluminum timing cover are only engaging 3 threads which is not enough. The aluminum timing cover would strip out trying to tighten the water pump up with bolts that short. So I sent a customer support message to ARP to see what they say. For the cost of this kit I feel they should send me individual bolts in the lengths I need cause the package states for small block fords with aluminum timing cover and aluminum water pump but wont work on serpentine reverse rotation water pumps. Thats what I have to the letter, aluminum ford motorsport timing cover which is the OE timing cover under the Ford Motorsport brand, and an aluminum GMP high performance water pump for a '82 F150 standard rotation. I honestly dont believe ARP is going to help me on this cause they just brushed me off when I asked about the 7/16" cam bolt my aftermarket roller cam had they basically said we dont offer anything in that size for a Ford Cam bolt. But maybe they will help me and get me the right bolts for this application since it is all OE spec parts.

As of now I have to wait cause my pushrods havent been shipped yet, the ARP timing cover/water pump bolt kit isnt working out so I cant even torque the front of the engine down, I cant put the oil pan on, at least I cant torque it down till the timing cover is located and torqued in place first. So I am in limbo till I can get this straightened out.

I know I measured the depth of the bolt holes as well as the depth from the water pump/timing cover to the block itself. Working in order clock wise around the water pump with #1 starting the upper left water pump to timing cover bolt.

#1 2.9095" bolt depth / 2.1790" depth to block

#2 didnt measure the depth as it should be similar / 1.0365" depth to block

#3 didnt measure the depth as it should be similar / 1.0625" depth to block

#4 bolt in kit fit properly

#5 bolt in kit fit properly

#6 5.0620" bolt depth / 4.2850" depth to block

#7 bolt in kit fit properly

#8 bolt in kit fit properly

For the timing cover itself starting with the upper timing pointer bolt going counter clock wise, starts with #9.

#9 2.35" bolt depth / 1.5205" depth to block

#10 2.62" bolt depth / didnt measure assumes to be same as #9

#11 2.349" bolt depth / 1.4675" depth to block

#12 2.485" bolt depth / 1.0429" depth to block

some of the measurements that should be the same but vary I contribute to the fact its not torqued down and the water pump plate is concaved slightly causing a slight rock. I feel the measurements are close enough to get an idea of what length bolt I should have. How ever I refuse to buy the 9 bolts I need as ARP sells bolts in bulk packs of 5 and the cost of those 9 bolts unless I can get them in two lengths would surpass the cost of the kit I bought so I expect ARP to do right and resolve this as this is unacceptable to sell a product that doesnt fit its listed application.

[Gary Lewis]

Made some progress and delayed at the same time.

First off I installed the head gaskets and torqued the heads down to 70ft lbs as ARP stated in their head bolt kit. My felpro gasket set stated to torque the bottom bolts to 70ft lbs and the upper bolts under the valve cover to 80 ft lbs. Sorry I dont see the need of doing that and ARP stresses to use their torque specs unless they state to use OE torque specs. The gasket also stated to make sure the sealing ring doesnt over hang into the combustion chamber or the chamfer. Well it looks like the top part of the chamfer it is hanging over just slightly which I dont know how a 4.100" bore head gasket would do that on a 4.040" bore but I let it ride cause it was located on the dowels and everything else lined up.

Secondly I used the duplicolor industrial strength paint stripper on my NOS Ford oil pan that was painted engine grey inside and outside. I just cant trust that paint not softening up over time from the oil and letting go and clogging up the pickup on my oil pump. It took half a can to bubble up the paint on the inside of the pan but it is bare metal clean now. I sprayed the last half of the can on the exterior but after 2 1/2 hours of sitting the paint was still bubbling up so I tossed it in the garage to let it continue bubbling up over night so I can get it fully stripped down as well.

Third I put the GMB high performance aluminum water pump on but found out the ARP bolt kit lacks the proper bolts for its listed application. 9 of the bolts in the 15 bolt kit are the wrong size, they are either too short or too long. The longest bolt in the kit which should have been for the passengerside lower water pump bolt through the cover to the block which is where the alternator adjuster mounts to. Well placing the bolt and washer on the outside of the water pump I found out the bolt is 1 1/2" away from even touching the block. But it fits perfectly on the driver side lower water pump mount to the block. Then the four bolts through the aluminum water pump into the aluminum timing cover are only engaging 3 threads which is not enough. The aluminum timing cover would strip out trying to tighten the water pump up with bolts that short. So I sent a customer support message to ARP to see what they say. For the cost of this kit I feel they should send me individual bolts in the lengths I need cause the package states for small block fords with aluminum timing cover and aluminum water pump but wont work on serpentine reverse rotation water pumps. Thats what I have to the letter, aluminum ford motorsport timing cover which is the OE timing cover under the Ford Motorsport brand, and an aluminum GMP high performance water pump for a '82 F150 standard rotation. I honestly dont believe ARP is going to help me on this cause they just brushed me off when I asked about the 7/16" cam bolt my aftermarket roller cam had they basically said we dont offer anything in that size for a Ford Cam bolt. But maybe they will help me and get me the right bolts for this application since it is all OE spec parts.

As of now I have to wait cause my pushrods havent been shipped yet, the ARP timing cover/water pump bolt kit isnt working out so I cant even torque the front of the engine down, I cant put the oil pan on, at least I cant torque it down till the timing cover is located and torqued in place first. So I am in limbo till I can get this straightened out.

I know I measured the depth of the bolt holes as well as the depth from the water pump/timing cover to the block itself. Working in order clock wise around the water pump with #1 starting the upper left water pump to timing cover bolt.

#1 2.9095" bolt depth / 2.1790" depth to block

#2 didnt measure the depth as it should be similar / 1.0365" depth to block

#3 didnt measure the depth as it should be similar / 1.0625" depth to block

#4 bolt in kit fit properly

#5 bolt in kit fit properly

#6 5.0620" bolt depth / 4.2850" depth to block

#7 bolt in kit fit properly

#8 bolt in kit fit properly

For the timing cover itself starting with the upper timing pointer bolt going counter clock wise, starts with #9.

#9 2.35" bolt depth / 1.5205" depth to block

#10 2.62" bolt depth / didnt measure assumes to be same as #9

#11 2.349" bolt depth / 1.4675" depth to block

#12 2.485" bolt depth / 1.0429" depth to block

some of the measurements that should be the same but vary I contribute to the fact its not torqued down and the water pump plate is concaved slightly causing a slight rock. I feel the measurements are close enough to get an idea of what length bolt I should have. How ever I refuse to buy the 9 bolts I need as ARP sells bolts in bulk packs of 5 and the cost of those 9 bolts unless I can get them in two lengths would surpass the cost of the kit I bought so I expect ARP to do right and resolve this as this is unacceptable to sell a product that doesnt fit its listed application.

Well, that's some progress even if you got stopped. At least the stripper is working on the pan.

As for the bolts, I feel for ARP as there are a myriad of different water pumps & timing covers, as well as different accessory mounts. So having just the right bolt lengths has got to be tough. But hopefully they will work with you to get the right ones.

However, what are you going to coat those bolts with to make sure they don't corrode?

[Rusty_S85]

Well, that's some progress even if you got stopped. At least the stripper is working on the pan.

As for the bolts, I feel for ARP as there are a myriad of different water pumps & timing covers, as well as different accessory mounts. So having just the right bolt lengths has got to be tough. But hopefully they will work with you to get the right ones.

However, what are you going to coat those bolts with to make sure they don't corrode?

Problem is ARP only offers two kits with no specific listing for years on the application just what time of timing cover and water pump you have.

The kit I bought is 154-1504 with a note on summits site of "Designed to fit models with an aluminum timing cover and water pump. Will not fit reverse rotation (serpentine drive) water pumps."

It also has a listing on summits site for application, 1963 - 1968 289 V8 and 1968 - 1986 5.0L / 302 V8

The other kit that ARP offers is 154-3204 with a note on summits site of "Designed to fit models with an aluminum timing cover and cast iron water pump. Will not fit reverse rotation (serpentine drive) water pumps."

It also has a listing on summits site for application, 1963 - 1968 289 V8 and 1968 - 1979 5.0L / 302 V8.

It sounds like the kit I bought 154-1504 will fit any 302 / 5.0L from 1980 - 1986 where ford used the aluminum timing cover with aluminum water pump.

Below is a photo I took with colored circles pointing out the issues I am having with the ARP bolts, It was late when I sent my customer support ticket in last night and I didnt create this till today. If need be I will provide this to try and get them to help me if they are willing but I have a feeling they wont cause they didnt help me with the 7/16-20 cam bolt that most aftermarkets are using on Ford roller cam cores.

In case its hard to read the text I put in the break down is as follows.

Green : bolt has more than 5/16" thread engagement

Orange : bolt has right at or just below 5/16" thread engagement

Yellow : bolt has 1/16" to 1/8" thread engagement (feels like a few threads)

Red : Longest bolt in supplied kit is about 1 1/2" short of touching block

I could get by with the orange bolts but I would like a little more thread engagement like the green bolt has. The Yellow bolts I cant use as there is so little thread engagement that I just know it will pull the threads out of the timing cover and probably the iron block as well.

The red bolt I measured the depth of the opening through the water pump and I got 5.0620" might as well say 5" even as the water pump back cover is not compressed flat. From the water pump to the block I got 4.2850" so I figured some where around 4.5" to 4.75" bolt length I would need to account for ideal thread engagement once the alternator tension bracket is added to the height.

On the stripper it worked great. The inside it took multiple coats to get it fully stripped to prevent any worry of my oil pump pickup screen getting clogged with paint down the road.

This picture is the inside of the pan as I finished last night before starting on the outside.

On the outside I sprayed it and let it sit over night as after 2 hours the paint was still slowly bubbling up in new areas and I wanted to have it easy to remove it with all the tight corners I couldnt get a wire brush wheel into.

This photo is the outside sprayed with the stripper.

This photo shows after 10 hours of letting the stripper work

And how the paint actually started to harden back up after the stripper dried out but was able to cut it and pull it off in sheets like a skin.

This is how the inside ended up after I finished cleaning the whole pan and spraying it with WD40 to stop rust from forming.

and how the pan looks just lightly installed on the engine. I didnt torque it down for a couple reasons. First reason is the Fel Pro instructions for the one piece gasket is very confusing on if I should or shouldnt be using ultra black in the corners. The other reason is I have Ford pan rail stiffeners and dont like the idea of not having the pan under the stiffeners painted so I am thinking possibly masking off the oil pan rail on the block and painting the oil pan separate from the block. Draw back of this is the pan rail will be painted black and the ARP black oxide bolts will be un painted as well.

And a photo of my Powerbond SFI Race balancer partially installed to check the timing marks. Looks like true TDC is going to register as 2* advance on this balancer. I will double check it again once I get it fully pressed in place on the crank as its possible it may shift slightly.

On the fel pro one piece gasket this is what the paper says that is confusing me.

"On skirted engine blocks, those applications where the oil pan mating surfaces are all on the same plane, the oil pan gasket should be installed dry with no chemical adhesives or supplementary sealants.

Non skirted engines, those engines where the oil pan side rails and the end seal surfaces are not on the same plane, require the use of a small amount of RTV sealant applied to each of the 4 corners on the block side of the gasket."

The confusing part is my 292 Y8 is a skirted block, the crankshaft sits above the oil pan rail. Windsor small blocks are not skirted blocks as the oil pan rail bisects the center of the crankshaft. But the way Fel Pro is describing it makes it sound like they are calling the Windsor a skirted block and doesnt need any RTV in the corners. So I need to email Fel Pro and get clarification cause it sounds like they want me to install this dry but I hate to install it dry and it leaks on me cause they explained it horribly in a contradictory way.

On the bolts they will be primered and painted in Eastwoods 2K epoxy primer and epoxy Dark Ford Corporate blue. The oil pan is the only spot I am unsure about cause I dont want bare metal under the pan rail stiffeners being able to rust but I also dont want to paint the bolts separate as the paint will come off when tightening in place. Ideally it would be best to paint assembled but I also dont want to get paint on the Fel Pro one piece rubber gasket.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, that's some progress even if you got stopped. At least the stripper is working on the pan.

As for the bolts, I feel for ARP as there are a myriad of different water pumps & timing covers, as well as different accessory mounts. So having just the right bolt lengths has got to be tough. But hopefully they will work with you to get the right ones.

However, what are you going to coat those bolts with to make sure they don't corrode?

Problem is ARP only offers two kits with no specific listing for years on the application just what time of timing cover and water pump you have.

The kit I bought is 154-1504 with a note on summits site of "Designed to fit models with an aluminum timing cover and water pump. Will not fit reverse rotation (serpentine drive) water pumps."

It also has a listing on summits site for application, 1963 - 1968 289 V8 and 1968 - 1986 5.0L / 302 V8

The other kit that ARP offers is 154-3204 with a note on summits site of "Designed to fit models with an aluminum timing cover and cast iron water pump. Will not fit reverse rotation (serpentine drive) water pumps."

It also has a listing on summits site for application, 1963 - 1968 289 V8 and 1968 - 1979 5.0L / 302 V8.

It sounds like the kit I bought 154-1504 will fit any 302 / 5.0L from 1980 - 1986 where ford used the aluminum timing cover with aluminum water pump.

Below is a photo I took with colored circles pointing out the issues I am having with the ARP bolts, It was late when I sent my customer support ticket in last night and I didnt create this till today. If need be I will provide this to try and get them to help me if they are willing but I have a feeling they wont cause they didnt help me with the 7/16-20 cam bolt that most aftermarkets are using on Ford roller cam cores.

In case its hard to read the text I put in the break down is as follows.

Green : bolt has more than 5/16" thread engagement

Orange : bolt has right at or just below 5/16" thread engagement

Yellow : bolt has 1/16" to 1/8" thread engagement (feels like a few threads)

Red : Longest bolt in supplied kit is about 1 1/2" short of touching block

I could get by with the orange bolts but I would like a little more thread engagement like the green bolt has. The Yellow bolts I cant use as there is so little thread engagement that I just know it will pull the threads out of the timing cover and probably the iron block as well.

The red bolt I measured the depth of the opening through the water pump and I got 5.0620" might as well say 5" even as the water pump back cover is not compressed flat. From the water pump to the block I got 4.2850" so I figured some where around 4.5" to 4.75" bolt length I would need to account for ideal thread engagement once the alternator tension bracket is added to the height.

On the stripper it worked great. The inside it took multiple coats to get it fully stripped to prevent any worry of my oil pump pickup screen getting clogged with paint down the road.

This picture is the inside of the pan as I finished last night before starting on the outside.

On the outside I sprayed it and let it sit over night as after 2 hours the paint was still slowly bubbling up in new areas and I wanted to have it easy to remove it with all the tight corners I couldnt get a wire brush wheel into.

This photo is the outside sprayed with the stripper.

This photo shows after 10 hours of letting the stripper work

And how the paint actually started to harden back up after the stripper dried out but was able to cut it and pull it off in sheets like a skin.

This is how the inside ended up after I finished cleaning the whole pan and spraying it with WD40 to stop rust from forming.

and how the pan looks just lightly installed on the engine. I didnt torque it down for a couple reasons. First reason is the Fel Pro instructions for the one piece gasket is very confusing on if I should or shouldnt be using ultra black in the corners. The other reason is I have Ford pan rail stiffeners and dont like the idea of not having the pan under the stiffeners painted so I am thinking possibly masking off the oil pan rail on the block and painting the oil pan separate from the block. Draw back of this is the pan rail will be painted black and the ARP black oxide bolts will be un painted as well.

And a photo of my Powerbond SFI Race balancer partially installed to check the timing marks. Looks like true TDC is going to register as 2* advance on this balancer. I will double check it again once I get it fully pressed in place on the crank as its possible it may shift slightly.

On the fel pro one piece gasket this is what the paper says that is confusing me.

"On skirted engine blocks, those applications where the oil pan mating surfaces are all on the same plane, the oil pan gasket should be installed dry with no chemical adhesives or supplementary sealants.

Non skirted engines, those engines where the oil pan side rails and the end seal surfaces are not on the same plane, require the use of a small amount of RTV sealant applied to each of the 4 corners on the block side of the gasket."

The confusing part is my 292 Y8 is a skirted block, the crankshaft sits above the oil pan rail. Windsor small blocks are not skirted blocks as the oil pan rail bisects the center of the crankshaft. But the way Fel Pro is describing it makes it sound like they are calling the Windsor a skirted block and doesnt need any RTV in the corners. So I need to email Fel Pro and get clarification cause it sounds like they want me to install this dry but I hate to install it dry and it leaks on me cause they explained it horribly in a contradictory way.

On the bolts they will be primered and painted in Eastwoods 2K epoxy primer and epoxy Dark Ford Corporate blue. The oil pan is the only spot I am unsure about cause I dont want bare metal under the pan rail stiffeners being able to rust but I also dont want to paint the bolts separate as the paint will come off when tightening in place. Ideally it would be best to paint assembled but I also dont want to get paint on the Fel Pro one piece rubber gasket.

I'm reading the instructions differently. I think when they say "On skirted engine blocks, those applications where the oil pan mating surfaces are all on the same plane" they are including the timing cover. And on a Windsor the pan has a big dip in it to accommodate the timing cover. That tells me the Windsor is "non-skirted" and you'll need the "small amount of RTV" in the four corners.

Speaking of the pan, that came out amazingly clean.

But on the bolts into the engine for the water pump, I always use some kind of sealant to protect the bolts from corrosion. Jim has gotten me using Loctite PST for that.

[Rusty_S85]

I'm reading the instructions differently. I think when they say "On skirted engine blocks, those applications where the oil pan mating surfaces are all on the same plane" they are including the timing cover. And on a Windsor the pan has a big dip in it to accommodate the timing cover. That tells me the Windsor is "non-skirted" and you'll need the "small amount of RTV" in the four corners.

Speaking of the pan, that came out amazingly clean.

But on the bolts into the engine for the water pump, I always use some kind of sealant to protect the bolts from corrosion. Jim has gotten me using Loctite PST for that.

See the more I read it it sounds like now it means if the oil pan is flat all around without the hump as you said. Its just vague some what cause the front and back are on the same plane its just where the crank is its not on the same plane.

Ah you mean for sealing the coolant. I have to double check with my light I dont think on this E1 block goes into coolant but if it does I am using ARP thread sealer on the threads and ARP bolt assembly lube on the under side of the bolt head. Thats how I did the lower head bolts while the upper head bolts being blind holes just got the ARP bolt assembly lube on the threads and the under side of the bolt head.

The pan did come out way better than I thought. Only thing I am not too happy with is in the corners by the front and rear arch I couldnt get the wire brush wheel in there to clean. Im going to see if I can scrape that paint off with my pick set I have at work but if not I dont think it will be that noticeable with the pan rail stiffener right in the same area.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm reading the instructions differently. I think when they say "On skirted engine blocks, those applications where the oil pan mating surfaces are all on the same plane" they are including the timing cover. And on a Windsor the pan has a big dip in it to accommodate the timing cover. That tells me the Windsor is "non-skirted" and you'll need the "small amount of RTV" in the four corners.

Speaking of the pan, that came out amazingly clean.

But on the bolts into the engine for the water pump, I always use some kind of sealant to protect the bolts from corrosion. Jim has gotten me using Loctite PST for that.

See the more I read it it sounds like now it means if the oil pan is flat all around without the hump as you said. Its just vague some what cause the front and back are on the same plane its just where the crank is its not on the same plane.

Ah you mean for sealing the coolant. I have to double check with my light I dont think on this E1 block goes into coolant but if it does I am using ARP thread sealer on the threads and ARP bolt assembly lube on the under side of the bolt head. Thats how I did the lower head bolts while the upper head bolts being blind holes just got the ARP bolt assembly lube on the threads and the under side of the bolt head.

The pan did come out way better than I thought. Only thing I am not too happy with is in the corners by the front and rear arch I couldnt get the wire brush wheel in there to clean. Im going to see if I can scrape that paint off with my pick set I have at work but if not I dont think it will be that noticeable with the pan rail stiffener right in the same area.

Yes, I think the difference is a pan that is flat all the way around vs those with a divot for the crank. Flat doesn't need the RTV, but with a divot there's the joint that needs the RTV.

As for the bolts, if you are coating their threads then that should work well.

[Rusty_S85]

Yes, I think the difference is a pan that is flat all the way around vs those with a divot for the crank. Flat doesn't need the RTV, but with a divot there's the joint that needs the RTV.

As for the bolts, if you are coating their threads then that should work well.

Yep, the ARP thread sealer is a pfte I think it said teflon based paste for automotive applications for sealing fittings for gasoline, oil, and coolant. I use it on all pipe fittings be it fuel, oil, or coolant and it works great.

The only thing I dont have is I cant find my old bottle of antiseize compound which I am sure after 15 years that stuff is probably no good anyways but I need to get antiseize for all the bolts screwing into aluminum. I have to check and see if the ARP thread lubricant will work in the place of antiseize as I am unsure but I know I will need it for the very least the spark plug threads.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I think the difference is a pan that is flat all the way around vs those with a divot for the crank. Flat doesn't need the RTV, but with a divot there's the joint that needs the RTV.

As for the bolts, if you are coating their threads then that should work well.

Yep, the ARP thread sealer is a pfte I think it said teflon based paste for automotive applications for sealing fittings for gasoline, oil, and coolant. I use it on all pipe fittings be it fuel, oil, or coolant and it works great.

The only thing I dont have is I cant find my old bottle of antiseize compound which I am sure after 15 years that stuff is probably no good anyways but I need to get antiseize for all the bolts screwing into aluminum. I have to check and see if the ARP thread lubricant will work in the place of antiseize as I am unsure but I know I will need it for the very least the spark plug threads.

Check out Loctite PST, aka 567. The writeup says "Henkel Loctite 567 Thread Sealant is a high viscosity, low strength acrylic instant sealant for tapered and straight fittings. Its high lubricating properties prevent galling on stainless steel, aluminum and all other metal pipe threads and fittings."

[Rusty_S85]

Yes, I think the difference is a pan that is flat all the way around vs those with a divot for the crank. Flat doesn't need the RTV, but with a divot there's the joint that needs the RTV.

As for the bolts, if you are coating their threads then that should work well.

Yep, the ARP thread sealer is a pfte I think it said teflon based paste for automotive applications for sealing fittings for gasoline, oil, and coolant. I use it on all pipe fittings be it fuel, oil, or coolant and it works great.

The only thing I dont have is I cant find my old bottle of antiseize compound which I am sure after 15 years that stuff is probably no good anyways but I need to get antiseize for all the bolts screwing into aluminum. I have to check and see if the ARP thread lubricant will work in the place of antiseize as I am unsure but I know I will need it for the very least the spark plug threads.

Got a email from ARP, they offered to replace the incorrect bolts at no cost. Normally they said they request the incorrect ones back to put back in circulation as a out right trade but was told due to how few I need that they will wave that. Im going to offer sending them back cause I am thinking of having them send me two of the longer bolts I have that do work but have them a little longer to give me more thread engagement.

Right now I am in the parts and illustration guide trying to get the lengths they list but there just isnt enough bolts listed for the timing cover in the guide which is mind boggling.

~Update~

Well I did not request those bolts I have circled in orange I am going to attempt to use them mainly cause I cant get a clear measurement to the block so I can figure up how long the bolt would have to be for a min of 5/16" thread engagement. Sitting the bolt in place with the washer my caliper is indicating the two bolts have 13/64" and 15/64" thread engagement. I am hopeful this is enough thread engagement for proper clamping as these two are bolts that clamp at the coolant port through the timing cover.

Bolts I requested how ever from my figuring is as follows.

5/16"-18 x 2.00" x4 (these are the timing cover to block bolts at the crankshaft)

5/16"-18 x 1.50" x3 (these are the three water pump to timing cover bolts)

5/16"-18 x 2.50" x1 (this is the remaining water pump to timing cover bolt)

5/16"-18 x 5.00" x1 (this was initially 4.75" but I bumped it up to 5" as I believe the alternator tensioner bracket is 1/4" thick which would bring me back down to 4.75" then the washer bringing me just below 4.75" which would still have me with more than 5/16" thread engagement)

If those two bolts from the water pump to the block doesnt appear to work I will get a better measurement and then just buy those bolts. Long as ARP makes majority of these errors right I dont mind buying a pack of 5 of just one size. I will have to buy some for my alternator to block bracket anyways since they will be more noticeable without the airpump.