Fuel Injection upgrade

[Rusty_S85]

I used male connectors to plug into the harness on the right side to get the trigger signals and put the relays by the battery. Then I ran the wires over the radiator, zip tied to the support, to the left headlight. And the relays are powered by fuses in the PDB.

Thats how I have mine planned, I am taking the idea from the chinese relay kit I bought that I had to lengthen to make it route the way I wanted. This is how I found out that wiring used in the chinese kit was not 12 - 14 ga but was a extra thick insulation on a 18 - 20 ga wire which I felt was way too small to be honest for how long the wire actually is.

So I bought and put up with my wiring that I am sourcing slowly for the project the plastic male adapter so I can plug into one of the OE headlight harnesses the other one in the kit will be assembled and plugged into the other circuit as a dummy just to protect the connector from corrosion. I also got a set of the ceramic H4 connectors for my connection at the H4 bulbs themselves.

Aside from that, the last few days Ive been digging on the Bassani off road Y pipe in 3" size. I found a little out about them but still no real photos of the Y pipe itself. Everything I find with photos are from 10 years ago and the images are all broken now. But what I was able to find was photos of the Bassani headers which shows it uses a ball and socket flange very similar to what is on my Hedman shorty street headers so the Y pipe should fit my headers at least.

Only questions that remain is if there is any fitment issues, if the Y pipe is or isnt closer to the oil pan where it crosses over under, if it fits too close to the transmission crossmember where the exhaust passes through and so on.

What I am thinking how ever is run the Bassani 3" Y pipe which is stainless as it has no converter I did hear one state it has the air injection tube which if it does I am going to see how to go about removing it and plugging the hole. This route would require to a replacement converter hanger bracket to replace my cut off frame unit one then I can fabricate a bracket to weld onto the straight pipe. I will also have to source another Magnaflow round muffler as mine wont fit but they do offer a 3" in/out variant. Ill also have to still source a cheapie walker OE muffler to cut the OE muffler hanger bracket off so I can have it welded onto the Magnaflow muffler to utilize the OE hanger. For the tail pipe I found that Flowmaster has a diy kit in 3" for a tail pipe in aluminized steel for $117. I probably could just have an exhaust shop bend me up a stainless steel 3" tail pipe and provide the OE hanger from my 2" unit for them to weld onto the tail pipe to use the OE hanger at the rear.

But it seems like my plan is some what coming together. Just hopeful going all 3" will not have a negative effect on such a small engine but everything I have read and came across states a single 3" is equal to dual 2 1/4" exhaust which I know many people with these trucks are running dual 2 1/4" exhaust with no problem on their 302s.

All I know is I want some nice exhaust that I can put together with the exhaust band clamps they hold tight and they allow for disassembly and exhaust shops here they want to weld everything in place not use those band clamps that seal better than the old fashioned clamps.

~Update~

I forgot to add in the charts I came across. This is a compilation of a few different sources that all seem to state the same thing.

From Dynomax

300-350 CID : 3" single exhaust = 250 - 300 HP / 3 1/2" single exhaust = 350 HP

From Roadkill Customs

300-350 CID : 3" single exhaust = 250 - 300 HP / 3 1/2" single exhaust = 350 HP

From TDotPerformance.ca's Redline

300-350 CID : 2 1/2" - 3" single exhaust = 200 - 350 HP

It appears that a 3" single exhaust would not be big enough for my 306 if it produces closer to 400hp which it very well may. But like wise all these sites mentioned to size properly because a smaller diameter pipe will produce low to mid RPM torque while larger diameter pipes produce mid to high RPM torque. But still you have to take into account rpm range and displacement and thermal expansion. RoadKill Customs actually states the following

Quick Exhaust System Math

Easy way to estimate : Your intake system needs to flow 1.5 CFM per engine HP and your exhaust needs to flow 2.2 CFM per engine HP.

Good way to estimate : Take engine RPM x CID, then divide by two. This is the intake volume. Use this same volume of air for the exhaust system, but then correct for thermal expansion (you need to know exhaust temps to figure things out).

So using the quick exhaust system math and using my DD2000 peak hp of 382 @ 5,500 rpm which comes out to 573 CFM on the intake side and 840.4 CFM on the exhaust side. The closest I can get to 840 CFM would be 3" exhaust at 747 CFM (estimated) which is also listed as only being capable of handling 339HP for single exhaust. I would have to go to 3 1/4" pipe to get in the 800s and it would put me at 882 CFM and capable of supporting 401HP for single exhaust. But still I feel 3 1/4" pipe will be way too large and hurt my low rpm power which is what I need for street driving. 3" I feel may be too big for low/mid range power as well but it will hinder my high end how ever. 2 1/2" would really hinder with 509 CFM exhaust flow and only capable of supporting 232HP for single exhaust. For my goal of 300hp I would have to run 3" single exhaust as there is just no way around it even if I feel 3" is too big for a 306 CID engine.

Getting a little closer on my build. Just placed my order from Creb Engineering on ebay for my 306 short block with hyper pistons and that should be here mid May.

Once that get here I can start assembly finding out what length pushrods I need to order, then start fabricating up some annealed stainless steel hardline for my EFI on the engine.

I still have to order the fuel tank and I am still on the hunt for a reasonably priced NOS 85-86 fuel tank sender since I will be junking the lift pump in place of a Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump which I also have to still get. Also have to get the fuse box I posted above so I can make up the custom harness for my EFI. I also have to still source a 3G alternator as I dont trust the 1G to be enough with the EFI thrown into the mix and I feel it will be easier to mock everything up while on the engine stand. I also have to pick up the stainless steel 3/8 hardline for the frame from Inline so I can repurpose it for my EFI feed line.

Aside from that I still have to send the fuel tank out to get a baffle welded in so I wont have to worry about laying down when around 1/4 tank due to fuel slosh. I also need to ship my headers out to get them ceramic coated as well as ship out my distributor to the expert up in Washington state to recurve it on his sun machine.

I know there is something else I am forgetting that I will probably remember after the fact.

[Gary Lewis]

Getting a little closer on my build. Just placed my order from Creb Engineering on ebay for my 306 short block with hyper pistons and that should be here mid May.

Once that get here I can start assembly finding out what length pushrods I need to order, then start fabricating up some annealed stainless steel hardline for my EFI on the engine.

I still have to order the fuel tank and I am still on the hunt for a reasonably priced NOS 85-86 fuel tank sender since I will be junking the lift pump in place of a Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump which I also have to still get. Also have to get the fuse box I posted above so I can make up the custom harness for my EFI. I also have to still source a 3G alternator as I dont trust the 1G to be enough with the EFI thrown into the mix and I feel it will be easier to mock everything up while on the engine stand. I also have to pick up the stainless steel 3/8 hardline for the frame from Inline so I can repurpose it for my EFI feed line.

Aside from that I still have to send the fuel tank out to get a baffle welded in so I wont have to worry about laying down when around 1/4 tank due to fuel slosh. I also need to ship my headers out to get them ceramic coated as well as ship out my distributor to the expert up in Washington state to recurve it on his sun machine.

I know there is something else I am forgetting that I will probably remember after the fact.

Sounds like a good plan.

On the headers, I had mine coated in OKC by Jet Hot. They spent a lot of time consulting with me and did a good job on the coating.

As for the 3G, you've seen the spreadsheet on our 3G Upgrade page that provides some source info?

[Rusty_S85]

Sounds like a good plan.

On the headers, I had mine coated in OKC by Jet Hot. They spent a lot of time consulting with me and did a good job on the coating.

As for the 3G, you've seen the spreadsheet on our 3G Upgrade page that provides some source info?

I talked with Jet Hot and I think I am going to go with Cradin Industries here in Borne, Tx. For a pair of shorty V8 headers the price is $185 for the coating or $168 for black ceramic coating. Im torn between the black and the Zinc Zirconia. I was informed people wanting that cast look go with the Zinc Zirconia for restorations. I just am not sure as it is a greenish tinge to the grey color and not fully sure if its just the camera or not.

This is a pair of headers they coated in the Zinc Zirconia

This is their black which looks like any other black ceramic coating.

The place in Washington state I found actually has a bare stainless steel color but shipping round trip makes it quite pricy.

On the 3G yep, I have poured over it numerous days, weeks, months as well as numerous notes. I already have my soft start regulator mine is the longest 8s I believe it is delay since I am going to be running the larger 130A 3G on a single V belt. I already modified an OE cast iron alternator bracket by cutting the ears off for the air pump I painted it in a eastwood zinc phosphate charcoal grey color for a OE like look but I think I will strip it off and get some eastwood underhood black in 2K and spray it. Only thing is I am fixing to open up my parts and illustration guide to seek a OE part number for the alternator adjusting bracket to see what my options are out there since it has to be flattened out to fit the 3G ear.

I also have to sit down and try to get help from Goodyear to find the proper belt for my 3G conversion as I am looking at their sticky belts that have a lower slip rate.

~Update~

I remember what else I need to do. I need to get another dual roller timing set as the one I got has a bunch of casting flash and I was told by too many people to not use a Comp Cam timing set. I also need to get a 50oz imbalance damper and flexplate. I am leaning towards the Dayco/powerbond street performance damper since it goes supposedly goes up to 50* which if that is true it would make life easy on me if I ever decide to toss my DSII ignition system in favor of full computer control timing.

Another thing I forgot to mention was I am putting my aircleaner search on hold for now and I am going to be buying some of those AlumiWeld rods to use a propane torch to weld my aluminum aircleaner back up where the sides are all split then I can just simply sand and shoot with some aluminum colored paint. At least I can get my truck back on the road and then later on decide if I want to do the dual snorkel setup or not.

[Gary Lewis]

Sounds like a good plan.

On the headers, I had mine coated in OKC by Jet Hot. They spent a lot of time consulting with me and did a good job on the coating.

As for the 3G, you've seen the spreadsheet on our 3G Upgrade page that provides some source info?

I talked with Jet Hot and I think I am going to go with Cradin Industries here in Borne, Tx. For a pair of shorty V8 headers the price is $185 for the coating or $168 for black ceramic coating. Im torn between the black and the Zinc Zirconia. I was informed people wanting that cast look go with the Zinc Zirconia for restorations. I just am not sure as it is a greenish tinge to the grey color and not fully sure if its just the camera or not.

This is a pair of headers they coated in the Zinc Zirconia

This is their black which looks like any other black ceramic coating.

The place in Washington state I found actually has a bare stainless steel color but shipping round trip makes it quite pricy.

On the 3G yep, I have poured over it numerous days, weeks, months as well as numerous notes. I already have my soft start regulator mine is the longest 8s I believe it is delay since I am going to be running the larger 130A 3G on a single V belt. I already modified an OE cast iron alternator bracket by cutting the ears off for the air pump I painted it in a eastwood zinc phosphate charcoal grey color for a OE like look but I think I will strip it off and get some eastwood underhood black in 2K and spray it. Only thing is I am fixing to open up my parts and illustration guide to seek a OE part number for the alternator adjusting bracket to see what my options are out there since it has to be flattened out to fit the 3G ear.

I also have to sit down and try to get help from Goodyear to find the proper belt for my 3G conversion as I am looking at their sticky belts that have a lower slip rate.

~Update~

I remember what else I need to do. I need to get another dual roller timing set as the one I got has a bunch of casting flash and I was told by too many people to not use a Comp Cam timing set. I also need to get a 50oz imbalance damper and flexplate. I am leaning towards the Dayco/powerbond street performance damper since it goes supposedly goes up to 50* which if that is true it would make life easy on me if I ever decide to toss my DSII ignition system in favor of full computer control timing.

Another thing I forgot to mention was I am putting my aircleaner search on hold for now and I am going to be buying some of those AlumiWeld rods to use a propane torch to weld my aluminum aircleaner back up where the sides are all split then I can just simply sand and shoot with some aluminum colored paint. At least I can get my truck back on the road and then later on decide if I want to do the dual snorkel setup or not.

Looks like you have it mapped out.

But on the air cleaner, I think the aluminum cleaners cracked due to lack of support of the snorkel. W/o the hot air tube the snorkel is hung way out there and vibrates from the engine's pulses. The aluminum can't take that and cracks.

Not sure welding it up is going to fix that, so you might consider some kind of support.

[Rusty_S85]

Looks like you have it mapped out.

But on the air cleaner, I think the aluminum cleaners cracked due to lack of support of the snorkel. W/o the hot air tube the snorkel is hung way out there and vibrates from the engine's pulses. The aluminum can't take that and cracks.

Not sure welding it up is going to fix that, so you might consider some kind of support.

Problem is my aircleaner is split/cracked around the whole perimeter I think it was over tightening that caused it more so than just the weight of the snorkel. The weight of the snorkel probably did make some of the cracks but what I was thinking of doing was removing the sheet metal screws through the snorkel and rivet it back in with the proper 1/4" rivets but I was thinking of either cutting out a plate to fit on the inside or using some large fender washers with a 1/4" hole in the middle to help spread the weight of the snorkel out over a larger area.

As far as the hot air tube goes, I am thinking about installing it. I got the hedman clamp on hot air stove kit as I had planned on running the 600 cfm summit carb. But even though I am going to the holley EFI I still think it would help sell the OE stock look I am going for by retaining that even if I deactivate the vacuum motor.

[Rusty_S85]

Looks like you have it mapped out.

But on the air cleaner, I think the aluminum cleaners cracked due to lack of support of the snorkel. W/o the hot air tube the snorkel is hung way out there and vibrates from the engine's pulses. The aluminum can't take that and cracks.

Not sure welding it up is going to fix that, so you might consider some kind of support.

Problem is my aircleaner is split/cracked around the whole perimeter I think it was over tightening that caused it more so than just the weight of the snorkel. The weight of the snorkel probably did make some of the cracks but what I was thinking of doing was removing the sheet metal screws through the snorkel and rivet it back in with the proper 1/4" rivets but I was thinking of either cutting out a plate to fit on the inside or using some large fender washers with a 1/4" hole in the middle to help spread the weight of the snorkel out over a larger area.

As far as the hot air tube goes, I am thinking about installing it. I got the hedman clamp on hot air stove kit as I had planned on running the 600 cfm summit carb. But even though I am going to the holley EFI I still think it would help sell the OE stock look I am going for by retaining that even if I deactivate the vacuum motor.

Been doing some browsing at fuel tanks, Im still set on the 85-86 fuel tank but the lack of baffling is bothering me. The tank appears to have a step down to the center to help fuel pool in this low spot but accelerating, braking, or even turning could pull the fuel away from the pickup when down around 1/4 tank which for me I always fill up at 1/4 tank but ideally Id like to be safe to 1/8 tank in the off chance that I cant get to the gas station before 1/8 tank.

Now with that said I still havent contacted Texas Auto Gear to see how much they would charge to put baffling in my tank if they would even do it in the first place. I have been looking at photos of the tank it appears that I might be able to take some flat pieces of steel with the sides and bottom bent at a ninety degree angle to weld to the bottom of the tank and place these pieces at the start of the steps for the sump with openings cut in this piece. This would help restrict the flow to slow the fuel slosh down and hopefully keep me from stalling or stumbling or going lean when accelerating or braking. Problem is I dont know if I would want to cut the top of the fuel tank open for fear of it weakening the top of the tank which is where it clamps up against the tank mounts. I could probably reach my hand in through the opening but then it poses the problem of getting a proper weld then there is the whole risk of welding and not blowing a hole through the tank.

I have been throwing around the idea of the Holley HydraMat which will most likely prevent the fuel slosh issue for me down to 1/8 of a tank but I have seen two things said for the expected lifespan of this prefilter/sock. One is 5 to 10 years and another stated the HydraMat is capable of a life expectancy in a typical street car of 6 years or 60,000 miles. I dont know if I will want to be dropping my fuel tank every 6 years to replace a $180 HydraMat. So I am really leaning towards doing something with baffling to prevent this fuel slosh problem at low fuel level that wont require me to drop my fuel tank every few years.

If anyone has any ideas I would be open to it. I found lots of universal and aftermarket tanks and modules but they are either way too pricy for me at $500+ or they will require getting away from the OE components that I am trying to use as much of as possible for ease of sourcing replacements locally.

[Gary Lewis]

Been doing some browsing at fuel tanks, Im still set on the 85-86 fuel tank but the lack of baffling is bothering me. The tank appears to have a step down to the center to help fuel pool in this low spot but accelerating, braking, or even turning could pull the fuel away from the pickup when down around 1/4 tank which for me I always fill up at 1/4 tank but ideally Id like to be safe to 1/8 tank in the off chance that I cant get to the gas station before 1/8 tank.

Now with that said I still havent contacted Texas Auto Gear to see how much they would charge to put baffling in my tank if they would even do it in the first place. I have been looking at photos of the tank it appears that I might be able to take some flat pieces of steel with the sides and bottom bent at a ninety degree angle to weld to the bottom of the tank and place these pieces at the start of the steps for the sump with openings cut in this piece. This would help restrict the flow to slow the fuel slosh down and hopefully keep me from stalling or stumbling or going lean when accelerating or braking. Problem is I dont know if I would want to cut the top of the fuel tank open for fear of it weakening the top of the tank which is where it clamps up against the tank mounts. I could probably reach my hand in through the opening but then it poses the problem of getting a proper weld then there is the whole risk of welding and not blowing a hole through the tank.

I have been throwing around the idea of the Holley HydraMat which will most likely prevent the fuel slosh issue for me down to 1/8 of a tank but I have seen two things said for the expected lifespan of this prefilter/sock. One is 5 to 10 years and another stated the HydraMat is capable of a life expectancy in a typical street car of 6 years or 60,000 miles. I dont know if I will want to be dropping my fuel tank every 6 years to replace a $180 HydraMat. So I am really leaning towards doing something with baffling to prevent this fuel slosh problem at low fuel level that wont require me to drop my fuel tank every few years.

If anyone has any ideas I would be open to it. I found lots of universal and aftermarket tanks and modules but they are either way too pricy for me at $500+ or they will require getting away from the OE components that I am trying to use as much of as possible for ease of sourcing replacements locally.

I think you are trying to solve a problem you don't know that you'll have. I'd go ahead and install a stock tank and find out if you have the problem before worrying about solving it.

I know that's not my normal mode of operation, but in this case there's no obvious solution. And dropping the tank to make a change isn't all that onerous. So I think I'd go with stock components and see if you have a problem.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think you are trying to solve a problem you don't know that you'll have.

I know that's not my normal mode of operation, but in this case there's no obvious solution. And dropping the tank to make a change isn't all that onerous. So I think I'd go with stock components and see if you have a problem.

I'm quoting this for posterity!

 

[Gary Lewis]

I think you are trying to solve a problem you don't know that you'll have.

I know that's not my normal mode of operation, but in this case there's no obvious solution. And dropping the tank to make a change isn't all that onerous. So I think I'd go with stock components and see if you have a problem.

I'm quoting this for posterity!

For the record, I'd not had a single sip of my 1st cup of Java when I typed that. But now, half a cup in and with the light of day actually appearing, I still agree.

[85lebaront2]

Been doing some browsing at fuel tanks, Im still set on the 85-86 fuel tank but the lack of baffling is bothering me. The tank appears to have a step down to the center to help fuel pool in this low spot but accelerating, braking, or even turning could pull the fuel away from the pickup when down around 1/4 tank which for me I always fill up at 1/4 tank but ideally Id like to be safe to 1/8 tank in the off chance that I cant get to the gas station before 1/8 tank.

Now with that said I still havent contacted Texas Auto Gear to see how much they would charge to put baffling in my tank if they would even do it in the first place. I have been looking at photos of the tank it appears that I might be able to take some flat pieces of steel with the sides and bottom bent at a ninety degree angle to weld to the bottom of the tank and place these pieces at the start of the steps for the sump with openings cut in this piece. This would help restrict the flow to slow the fuel slosh down and hopefully keep me from stalling or stumbling or going lean when accelerating or braking. Problem is I dont know if I would want to cut the top of the fuel tank open for fear of it weakening the top of the tank which is where it clamps up against the tank mounts. I could probably reach my hand in through the opening but then it poses the problem of getting a proper weld then there is the whole risk of welding and not blowing a hole through the tank.

I have been throwing around the idea of the Holley HydraMat which will most likely prevent the fuel slosh issue for me down to 1/8 of a tank but I have seen two things said for the expected lifespan of this prefilter/sock. One is 5 to 10 years and another stated the HydraMat is capable of a life expectancy in a typical street car of 6 years or 60,000 miles. I dont know if I will want to be dropping my fuel tank every 6 years to replace a $180 HydraMat. So I am really leaning towards doing something with baffling to prevent this fuel slosh problem at low fuel level that wont require me to drop my fuel tank every few years.

If anyone has any ideas I would be open to it. I found lots of universal and aftermarket tanks and modules but they are either way too pricy for me at $500+ or they will require getting away from the OE components that I am trying to use as much of as possible for ease of sourcing replacements locally.

Rusty, I have 1990 tanks on my 1986 truck (filler necks were a huge improvement) there is no baffling in the tanks of any kind, just the FDM that sits in the approximate center of each tank. If it were me, I would use the factory system for 1986 with the low pressure in-tank pumps and the reservoir/switching valve on the frame, and then the high pressure pump for your system. I have not yet run into a problem of fuel starvation, but I will switch to the rear tank if the front one is low and I will be on an extended up or down grade stretch. I did that even with the carburetor and hot fuel package, as the long 19 gal tank can easily get low enough that the gas will not reach the center.

If you are real worried about that issue, get a NASCAR style fuel cell.