Fuel Injection upgrade

[Gary Lewis]

I got quite a bit done on the fuse/relay box this weekend but couldnt finish as I need to source some extra supplies. I need to get three colors of SXL Crosslink wire in 18ga for my CB/CB Amp/Dakota Digital circuits. I also have to source some 10-24 x 1/4" machine screws for threading into the terminal blocks on the fuse/relay box. The ones I have from work are too long and I prefer not using nuts to hold the mini ANL fuse to the bolt that is on the inside holding the wiring tight.

These are the photos of the current state of my fuse/relay box.

This first photo is showing the way too long machine screws that are holding the 10ga main power wire and the wires to the fuses.

This second photo is showing the back of the box. The blue wire is what I am not sure about, I had to do the wire like that to jumper the trigger wire for the high beam relay to the driving light relay, the flood light relay, and the spot light relay. I could have gone with smaller gauge wire which would have allowed me to double up on the wires to the terminals but I was afraid of that not holding the wire as good as just one wire per terminal. The blue wire I can press down with some effort and settle it down where I should be able to get the plexiglass cover to sit on the back side. I also omitted the second 10ga power wire, it was getting too cluttered in the box and I honestly dont believe I need a second fuse to isolate the circuits. Each circuit has its own fuse already, the main fuse is just to protect pulling too many amps through the 10ga wire. I would have to do the math to calculate how many amps all my circuits are pulling but I know I will have to measure the total length of the main battery wire but I doubt it would be over 3 feet of total length and 10ga wire can handle 90A of current for 3ft of length. I doubt all my circuits combined would pull more than 90A but I would be using a 90A mini ANL fuse as this fuse is to protect the 10ga wire from being over loaded from my circuits.

This photo is a close up of the two bundles of battery hot wires going to each fused circuit. I am using a 10ga eyelet and placing bundles of four wires in. The first eyelet providing battery power to the headlights, driving lights, spot lights, and flood light circuits are 16ga wires. The second eyelet is providing power to the A/C clutch, the AC cutout, Ignition Hot, and the fuel pump power wires. The A/C clutch wire is 18ga, the A/C cutout and Ignition Hot are 20ga, and the fuel pump wire is 12ga. I still have to make one more eyelet this time for three 18ga wires for my CB, CB Amp, and my Dakota Digital power circuit.

This photo is a close up of the ground terminal block. I have the four ground wires from the headlights and driving lights bundled into one eyelet and the relay grounds bundled into another eyelet. I still need to make two more eyelets, one eyelet will be four ground wires going to the rear for my two spot lights and two flood lights and the other eyelet will be a single 10ga main ground that will run with the 10ga battery hot wire which will connect straight to the battery.

This photo is of the 14-pin Delphi Metri-Pack connector I made up for the front light circuits. I havent put the wire retainer strip in place yet as I need to get a set of terminal plugs so I can plug unused pins. This connector is for both headlights, headlight trigger circuit, and driving lights.

This photo is showing the largest 150A mini ANL fuse I got in a cheap assortment set sitting in place. I will most likely be using a 90A fuse. I would have liked to have split the circuits between two ANL fuses since I have three ports, as can be seen with the heavy gauge circuits I am dealing with I dont have the room for the wires. If I had a bussed circuit for the ATO/ACO fuses I could have freed up some space.

I think it is looking great! And I don't see a need for another fuse. That 90A should be fine.

On the screws, don't you have something that cuts screws? Like one of the cheap crimpers? Mine works great to let me trim screws right to length. However, then you have an untreated end, and unless the screw is brass you could have a problem. Maybe that's what you are thinking of?

[Rusty_S85]

I think it is looking great! And I don't see a need for another fuse. That 90A should be fine.

On the screws, don't you have something that cuts screws? Like one of the cheap crimpers? Mine works great to let me trim screws right to length. However, then you have an untreated end, and unless the screw is brass you could have a problem. Maybe that's what you are thinking of?

I think 90A would be fine as well. Just figuring up my circuits I have the following.

Highbeams 55w (110w) : 3.79A (7.58A) @ 14.5v

Driving Lights 100w (200w) : 6.89A (13.79A) @ 14.5v

Roll Bar Lights 100w (400w) : 6.89A (27.58A) @ 14.5v

CB Radio 2.5w : 0.17A @ 14.5v

CB Amp 100w : 6.89A @ 14.5v

Total : 56.01A @ 14.5v

That leaves me 33.99A @ 14.5v to run the sniper, fuel pump, and dakota digital cluster. That also is heavily dependent on running 100w lights for the roll bar lights. I could very well toss the 100w bulbs for 55w bulbs to drop the amperage requirement, but I should be safe.

I read that a 255lph high pressure/volume fuel pump at 43.5 psi (sniper runs at 50 psi) draws 8 amps. Could round it up to 10A. I don't know how many amps the sniper would draw; I doubt it would be more than 10A. The Dakota Digital cluster, the RTX cluster instructions state the battery wire should be 5 - 20A fused. So, I figure the cluster should draw between 3A to 15A.

So, 56.01A @ 14.5v plus an additional 10A and 15A for the sniper and Dakota Digital brings me to 81.01A @ 14.5v leaving me just 8.99A to run my A/C compressor.

I very well may have to run a second wire or at the very least isolate the Dakota Digital cluster to an ANL fuse with its own 18ga power wire. At least that would free up some 15A of power for the main wire. But for now, I can cut out some 27.58A of power as I don't have roll bar lights just yet. I also may go with the KC Daylighters in LED if I can get firm confirmation that the LED version will provide the same level of light pattern or just simply downgrade to just 55w bulbs or even instead of running four lights I could just go with two lights and make a decision on flood or spotlight. Or I could buy some 8ga wire and run it, but it won't fit my 3-wire connector as its only 10-12 ga. I could take and relocate the eyelet for the feed wire to another ANL fuse if need be. I may have to lengthen the wires however as it may not reach.

On the screws, I thought about cutting them but the biggest issue with cutting screws is it damages the starter threads. Normally I thread a die on before I make my cut then bevel the cut end on a belt sander and then unthread the die clean the threads up. With a bolt only 1/4" in length there isn't enough thread to do this. I did find some allen button headed screws on amazon in the right size, but I rather have phillips so I don't have to carry a huge assortment of tools to do work on the side of the road. I am thinking about hitting the local hardware store up this weekend it is where I got some polished stainless steel hex head bolts for the license plate on my '56. If the bolt exists, they have it at this hardware store. They are just a bit pricy which I am not real crazy about.

 

[Rusty_S85]

I think it is looking great! And I don't see a need for another fuse. That 90A should be fine.

On the screws, don't you have something that cuts screws? Like one of the cheap crimpers? Mine works great to let me trim screws right to length. However, then you have an untreated end, and unless the screw is brass you could have a problem. Maybe that's what you are thinking of?

I think 90A would be fine as well. Just figuring up my circuits I have the following.

Highbeams 55w (110w) : 3.79A (7.58A) @ 14.5v

Driving Lights 100w (200w) : 6.89A (13.79A) @ 14.5v

Roll Bar Lights 100w (400w) : 6.89A (27.58A) @ 14.5v

CB Radio 2.5w : 0.17A @ 14.5v

CB Amp 100w : 6.89A @ 14.5v

Total : 56.01A @ 14.5v

That leaves me 33.99A @ 14.5v to run the sniper, fuel pump, and dakota digital cluster. That also is heavily dependent on running 100w lights for the roll bar lights. I could very well toss the 100w bulbs for 55w bulbs to drop the amperage requirement, but I should be safe.

I read that a 255lph high pressure/volume fuel pump at 43.5 psi (sniper runs at 50 psi) draws 8 amps. Could round it up to 10A. I don't know how many amps the sniper would draw; I doubt it would be more than 10A. The Dakota Digital cluster, the RTX cluster instructions state the battery wire should be 5 - 20A fused. So, I figure the cluster should draw between 3A to 15A.

So, 56.01A @ 14.5v plus an additional 10A and 15A for the sniper and Dakota Digital brings me to 81.01A @ 14.5v leaving me just 8.99A to run my A/C compressor.

I very well may have to run a second wire or at the very least isolate the Dakota Digital cluster to an ANL fuse with its own 18ga power wire. At least that would free up some 15A of power for the main wire. But for now, I can cut out some 27.58A of power as I don't have roll bar lights just yet. I also may go with the KC Daylighters in LED if I can get firm confirmation that the LED version will provide the same level of light pattern or just simply downgrade to just 55w bulbs or even instead of running four lights I could just go with two lights and make a decision on flood or spotlight. Or I could buy some 8ga wire and run it, but it won't fit my 3-wire connector as its only 10-12 ga. I could take and relocate the eyelet for the feed wire to another ANL fuse if need be. I may have to lengthen the wires however as it may not reach.

On the screws, I thought about cutting them but the biggest issue with cutting screws is it damages the starter threads. Normally I thread a die on before I make my cut then bevel the cut end on a belt sander and then unthread the die clean the threads up. With a bolt only 1/4" in length there isn't enough thread to do this. I did find some allen button headed screws on amazon in the right size, but I rather have phillips so I don't have to carry a huge assortment of tools to do work on the side of the road. I am thinking about hitting the local hardware store up this weekend it is where I got some polished stainless steel hex head bolts for the license plate on my '56. If the bolt exists, they have it at this hardware store. They are just a bit pricy which I am not real crazy about.

Headers are boxed up in their original box with the Jet-Hot invoice tossed in. Going to UPS tomorrow to drop it off, hopefully I can get them to slip my Hedman Headers box inside another box just to double box it but keep it with in the dimensions of my current box.

Not sure how long the turn around will take but hopefully I will have my headers back ceramic coated in their Offroad 2000 in Titanium by the end of the month. Hopefully the coating isn't so thick that my headers that I clearance doesn't fit anymore.

Exhaust wise, I still can't get word from Magnaflow on their inventory issue seeing as their aftermarket mufflers have been reduced to a fraction of what they normally stock. How ever I did find a guy online selling exactly the one I am looking for new in box for $95 compared to the new price of $110 before shipping. So, I am waiting to hear back from him to place the order for that muffler and then I will recoup as much as I can on the 2 1/4" version. Only thing left to do in the exhaust department then would be to pick up the Flowmaster stainless steel Y pipe and pick up an OE replacement muffler for our trucks to drill out the spot welds for the OE muffler hanger. This way I can mockup my exhaust system and mark where the hanger needs to be attached and then find a local exhaust shop that can weld steel to stainless steel to attach the OE hanger to my magnaflow muffler. Then just have to have the same shop custom bend me a 2 1/2" tail pipe routed like OE and I will give them the OE hanger off the replacement tail pipe I bought and have them weld that to the new tail pipe so I can retain as much of the OE hanger system as possible.

For the electrical, I ordered from MonsterBolts some button head stainless steel machine screws 10-24x1/4" and they are too coarse. I ordered another set this time 10-32x5/16" in phillips head which should be right. I think the bin at work was wrong and the screws werent in the right place.

Besides all that I am pretty close now. All I have left to purchase is as follows before I can start my install. This close to install I am starting to get jittery worrying about possible issues, I am back thinking about the cam bolt, then I was reviewing photos and will have to check my intake manifold gasket as it looked like in the photos the rear coolant passage might not be properly sealed which if it isnt, now is the time to R&R the intake manifold before I get it installed in the truck and waste coolant.

1) Cold Case 2-Core aluminum radiator : $481.20

2) '85 Fuel Tank : $91.79

3) '85 Sending Unit : $58.79

4) Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump GCA719-2 : $122.39

5) Fuel Pump Connector : $3.41

6) Fuel Tank Vent Valve : $14.82

7) Fuel Tank Vent Valve Seal : $5.66

8) InlineTube 3/8" Stainless Steel lwb fuel line : $55.00

9) Fan Shroud : $46.30

10) InlineTube C6 Standard Cooling Trans Cooler Lines Stainless Steel : $80.00

11) 3G Alternator ; Keep looking at the WAI Global 77563N2G that comes with a 2-groove pulley but I would have to disassemble to reclock it. I can get one with the right clocking but I would still have to pull the pulley off to swap on a single groove pulley.

12) Flowmaster Stainless Steel Y-pipe 2020057 : $454.95

~Update~

I snagged the muffler, its a Magnaflow 13646 XL 3-Chamber stainless muffler. This is for the most part same dimensions as the one I currently have, 6" round body, 27" case length, 33" over all length. Only difference is the one I currently have is 2 1/4" and the one I snagged off ebay just now is 2 1/2". This is the route I decided to go, exhaust will be 2 1/2" from the Y pipe to the muffler and the tail pipe I will just find a local shop to make me a tail pipe in 2 1/2" shaped like the OE pipe. Maybe I could have them use the 2 1/4" tail pipe I got as a pattern to bend the 2 1/2" but I do know I want them to use the OE hangers that I will provide the parts that needs to weld to the pipes and I will also provide the band clamps for the exhaust so its not welded up so I can easily disassemble in the future.

[Rusty_S85]

Headers are boxed up in their original box with the Jet-Hot invoice tossed in. Going to UPS tomorrow to drop it off, hopefully I can get them to slip my Hedman Headers box inside another box just to double box it but keep it with in the dimensions of my current box.

Not sure how long the turn around will take but hopefully I will have my headers back ceramic coated in their Offroad 2000 in Titanium by the end of the month. Hopefully the coating isn't so thick that my headers that I clearance doesn't fit anymore.

Exhaust wise, I still can't get word from Magnaflow on their inventory issue seeing as their aftermarket mufflers have been reduced to a fraction of what they normally stock. How ever I did find a guy online selling exactly the one I am looking for new in box for $95 compared to the new price of $110 before shipping. So, I am waiting to hear back from him to place the order for that muffler and then I will recoup as much as I can on the 2 1/4" version. Only thing left to do in the exhaust department then would be to pick up the Flowmaster stainless steel Y pipe and pick up an OE replacement muffler for our trucks to drill out the spot welds for the OE muffler hanger. This way I can mockup my exhaust system and mark where the hanger needs to be attached and then find a local exhaust shop that can weld steel to stainless steel to attach the OE hanger to my magnaflow muffler. Then just have to have the same shop custom bend me a 2 1/2" tail pipe routed like OE and I will give them the OE hanger off the replacement tail pipe I bought and have them weld that to the new tail pipe so I can retain as much of the OE hanger system as possible.

For the electrical, I ordered from MonsterBolts some button head stainless steel machine screws 10-24x1/4" and they are too coarse. I ordered another set this time 10-32x5/16" in phillips head which should be right. I think the bin at work was wrong and the screws werent in the right place.

Besides all that I am pretty close now. All I have left to purchase is as follows before I can start my install. This close to install I am starting to get jittery worrying about possible issues, I am back thinking about the cam bolt, then I was reviewing photos and will have to check my intake manifold gasket as it looked like in the photos the rear coolant passage might not be properly sealed which if it isnt, now is the time to R&R the intake manifold before I get it installed in the truck and waste coolant.

1) Cold Case 2-Core aluminum radiator : $481.20

2) '85 Fuel Tank : $91.79

3) '85 Sending Unit : $58.79

4) Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump GCA719-2 : $122.39

5) Fuel Pump Connector : $3.41

6) Fuel Tank Vent Valve : $14.82

7) Fuel Tank Vent Valve Seal : $5.66

8) InlineTube 3/8" Stainless Steel lwb fuel line : $55.00

9) Fan Shroud : $46.30

10) InlineTube C6 Standard Cooling Trans Cooler Lines Stainless Steel : $80.00

11) 3G Alternator ; Keep looking at the WAI Global 77563N2G that comes with a 2-groove pulley but I would have to disassemble to reclock it. I can get one with the right clocking but I would still have to pull the pulley off to swap on a single groove pulley.

12) Flowmaster Stainless Steel Y-pipe 2020057 : $454.95

~Update~

I snagged the muffler, its a Magnaflow 13646 XL 3-Chamber stainless muffler. This is for the most part same dimensions as the one I currently have, 6" round body, 27" case length, 33" over all length. Only difference is the one I currently have is 2 1/4" and the one I snagged off ebay just now is 2 1/2". This is the route I decided to go, exhaust will be 2 1/2" from the Y pipe to the muffler and the tail pipe I will just find a local shop to make me a tail pipe in 2 1/2" shaped like the OE pipe. Maybe I could have them use the 2 1/4" tail pipe I got as a pattern to bend the 2 1/2" but I do know I want them to use the OE hangers that I will provide the parts that needs to weld to the pipes and I will also provide the band clamps for the exhaust so its not welded up so I can easily disassemble in the future.

Headers were supposed to ship out April 11, I lucked out a couple weeks ago they sent me the bill, after shipping and insurance both ways plus the Off-Road 2000 series coating I ended up paying right at $670. Ceramic coating itself was $585.

Should have got the headers this past friday they were out for delivery and I was home all day but the UPS guy never knocked he just tossed the "Sorry we missed you" tag on the door and marked it as being sent to the UPS pick up point the next business day. So I missed out on putting the headers on this past weekend as well as mocking up the oil dipstick tube. I ended up getting the headers today and I had just enough light to get the headers on today and grab some photos.

I left the third bolt from the rear on the driver side out that is the bolt that the OE dipstick bolts to. My plan is to get some all thread or an ARP stud that I can screw in then use a ARP washer and nut hopefully in 3/8" head to tighten the header to the head then I can make a piece of stainless steel spacer to space the dipstick out like the manifold did and lock it in place.

At the end of the day I am quite happy with going with the Off-Road 2000 coating in Titanium color. It looks very much like bare stainless steel/steel and the rough sand paper texture of the Off-Road 2000 coating kind of gives the illusion the headers are steel tubing but actually cast steel. I like it so much better than the black color I have been seeing with the black paint applied to the headers out of the box. Just too much black and blue now the Titanium color adds a little touch of accent color to break up all the blue and black.

Close up showing the sand paper texture that gives a cast look that I actually like.

Passengerside with the stainless steel O2 plug installed. I put a decent amount of copper antiseize on it in the off chance I ever need to pull the plug. I will check with the tuner I will be using and see if he thinks that is a viable source for the O2 sensor which I dont think it is.

Close up of the passenger side with all header bolts installed.

[grumpin]

Headers were supposed to ship out April 11, I lucked out a couple weeks ago they sent me the bill, after shipping and insurance both ways plus the Off-Road 2000 series coating I ended up paying right at $670. Ceramic coating itself was $585.

Should have got the headers this past friday they were out for delivery and I was home all day but the UPS guy never knocked he just tossed the "Sorry we missed you" tag on the door and marked it as being sent to the UPS pick up point the next business day. So I missed out on putting the headers on this past weekend as well as mocking up the oil dipstick tube. I ended up getting the headers today and I had just enough light to get the headers on today and grab some photos.

I left the third bolt from the rear on the driver side out that is the bolt that the OE dipstick bolts to. My plan is to get some all thread or an ARP stud that I can screw in then use a ARP washer and nut hopefully in 3/8" head to tighten the header to the head then I can make a piece of stainless steel spacer to space the dipstick out like the manifold did and lock it in place.

At the end of the day I am quite happy with going with the Off-Road 2000 coating in Titanium color. It looks very much like bare stainless steel/steel and the rough sand paper texture of the Off-Road 2000 coating kind of gives the illusion the headers are steel tubing but actually cast steel. I like it so much better than the black color I have been seeing with the black paint applied to the headers out of the box. Just too much black and blue now the Titanium color adds a little touch of accent color to break up all the blue and black.

Close up showing the sand paper texture that gives a cast look that I actually like.

Passengerside with the stainless steel O2 plug installed. I put a decent amount of copper antiseize on it in the off chance I ever need to pull the plug. I will check with the tuner I will be using and see if he thinks that is a viable source for the O2 sensor which I dont think it is.

Close up of the passenger side with all header bolts installed.

They look nice!

[Gary Lewis]

They look nice!

Looking really good!

And I do like the color and texture. Good choice.

Plus, I agree with you that the O2 bung is too close to a cylinder to use.

[Rusty_S85]

They look nice!

Thanks, I was really happy with how they came out. Looking at photos online I wasnt sure how the Titanium color would look as photos online made it look like a charcoal gray to a lighter raw steel gray. Mine ended up looking more like a lighter raw steel gray and the flash made them a bit lighter than they actually are. But they look so much nicer than the black they were painted in for shipping from hedman.

Looking really good!

And I do like the color and texture. Good choice.

Plus, I agree with you that the O2 bung is too close to a cylinder to use.

Thanks, I was a little apprehensive about the color but just went with it cause it seemed to be a popular color outside of the standard silver and black both of which I didnt want. The texture I was shown looked way rougher than what it actually does on the headers but for cleaning you cant use a rag or a car wash mitt, the roughness will catch and pull pieces off. I will use my soft bristle body brush when it comes time to wash under the hood. I dont know if I want to take a risk with trying to use engine cleaner like at the car washes on the headers considering they would be hot on the drive and they stress to clean them while they are ice cold.

Im thinking about putting the O2 bung in the Y pipe about 2" below the flange this should keep it far enough away from the cross over pipe between the two banks merging as you can in the following photo of the Y-pipe I will be using. Im really concerned about reversion possibly pulling exhaust through the cross over pipe and having an effect on the O2 reading. In reality I will be having it tuned and Im sure he will limit the changes the O2 sensor will be allowed to make to the tune to preserve the tune. I just want to make sure I dot all I`s in this case since I am reaching the end and the money is adding up.

I got my alternator adjustment arm in, its a NOS unit that is for the 70/100 Amp alternators and is a different part number than the 40/60 Amp alternators. I havent compared side by side but I think I will use my junk 1G alternator I have mount it up and see if this bracket lines up properly still, I dont think there was a size difference between 1G alternators but there could have been. I know the 75A 1G on my '78 Mercury without placing them side by side looks identical to the 1G on my truck. Im really curious to find out this weekend if I need to flatten the NOS adjustment arm I got or if it can be used as is. Im also anxious to pull the dipstick out of my truck and start mocking it up this weekend to see how I want to go about it. My line of thought is a piece of all thread or a long ARP stud threaded into the header mount then use a ARP washer and nut to tighten the header in place then make a spacer to go between the nut and the dipstick to position it properly like it was with the exhaust manifold. Im not sure if I want to use a raw stainless steel spacer like I did with the stainless steel oil pressure sending unit extension or just see if ARP makes them or someone else that makes them in the black oxide finish to match the hardware on the headers.

This is the photo of the Y-pipe from flowmaster I will be using sans converter. Its stainless steel and its listed for a '86 - '95 F150/bronco with a 5.0/302 engine. I checked the Y pipe part number and 85/86 came back with the same part number so it should work easily on my '82 as 80 - 86 trucks were the same. I am thinking no more than halfways between the flange and the cross over pipe is where I would put the O2 sensor, exact platement will be determined once in the truck mocking it up as I want the O2 sensor to be as vertical as possible but still removeable without dropping the exhaust.

[Gary Lewis]

They look nice!

Thanks, I was really happy with how they came out. Looking at photos online I wasnt sure how the Titanium color would look as photos online made it look like a charcoal gray to a lighter raw steel gray. Mine ended up looking more like a lighter raw steel gray and the flash made them a bit lighter than they actually are. But they look so much nicer than the black they were painted in for shipping from hedman.

Looking really good!

And I do like the color and texture. Good choice.

Plus, I agree with you that the O2 bung is too close to a cylinder to use.

Thanks, I was a little apprehensive about the color but just went with it cause it seemed to be a popular color outside of the standard silver and black both of which I didnt want. The texture I was shown looked way rougher than what it actually does on the headers but for cleaning you cant use a rag or a car wash mitt, the roughness will catch and pull pieces off. I will use my soft bristle body brush when it comes time to wash under the hood. I dont know if I want to take a risk with trying to use engine cleaner like at the car washes on the headers considering they would be hot on the drive and they stress to clean them while they are ice cold.

Im thinking about putting the O2 bung in the Y pipe about 2" below the flange this should keep it far enough away from the cross over pipe between the two banks merging as you can in the following photo of the Y-pipe I will be using. Im really concerned about reversion possibly pulling exhaust through the cross over pipe and having an effect on the O2 reading. In reality I will be having it tuned and Im sure he will limit the changes the O2 sensor will be allowed to make to the tune to preserve the tune. I just want to make sure I dot all I`s in this case since I am reaching the end and the money is adding up.

I got my alternator adjustment arm in, its a NOS unit that is for the 70/100 Amp alternators and is a different part number than the 40/60 Amp alternators. I havent compared side by side but I think I will use my junk 1G alternator I have mount it up and see if this bracket lines up properly still, I dont think there was a size difference between 1G alternators but there could have been. I know the 75A 1G on my '78 Mercury without placing them side by side looks identical to the 1G on my truck. Im really curious to find out this weekend if I need to flatten the NOS adjustment arm I got or if it can be used as is. Im also anxious to pull the dipstick out of my truck and start mocking it up this weekend to see how I want to go about it. My line of thought is a piece of all thread or a long ARP stud threaded into the header mount then use a ARP washer and nut to tighten the header in place then make a spacer to go between the nut and the dipstick to position it properly like it was with the exhaust manifold. Im not sure if I want to use a raw stainless steel spacer like I did with the stainless steel oil pressure sending unit extension or just see if ARP makes them or someone else that makes them in the black oxide finish to match the hardware on the headers.

This is the photo of the Y-pipe from flowmaster I will be using sans converter. Its stainless steel and its listed for a '86 - '95 F150/bronco with a 5.0/302 engine. I checked the Y pipe part number and 85/86 came back with the same part number so it should work easily on my '82 as 80 - 86 trucks were the same. I am thinking no more than halfways between the flange and the cross over pipe is where I would put the O2 sensor, exact platement will be determined once in the truck mocking it up as I want the O2 sensor to be as vertical as possible but still removeable without dropping the exhaust.

I think the O2 sensor in the crossover is good - if it doesn't hit anything.

[Rusty_S85]

I think the O2 sensor in the crossover is good - if it doesn't hit anything.

You mean the existing O2 bung that is situated between the two Y pipes?

I would have to show it to my tuner and get his opinion, if it would work there Id rather put it there than have to plug it. I just am unsure on this as I know the scavenging effect from bank to bank will cause exhaust to be pulled back and forth through the cross over pipe and I am not sure if it would be fine or not. I have installed O2 sensors after a merger of both sides before but I also let the sniper do the tuning on those builds. This one I will have this guy I know tune it as I want to get the most out of the aftermarket EFI.

[Rusty_S85]

I think the O2 sensor in the crossover is good - if it doesn't hit anything.

You mean the existing O2 bung that is situated between the two Y pipes?

I would have to show it to my tuner and get his opinion, if it would work there Id rather put it there than have to plug it. I just am unsure on this as I know the scavenging effect from bank to bank will cause exhaust to be pulled back and forth through the cross over pipe and I am not sure if it would be fine or not. I have installed O2 sensors after a merger of both sides before but I also let the sniper do the tuning on those builds. This one I will have this guy I know tune it as I want to get the most out of the aftermarket EFI.

Have to revisit the dipstick, I have an issue I have to resolve. What I had planned on doing isnt viable. The threaded rod and the 7/16" stainless steel tubing clears the headers but to position the dipstick in the right place I cant get a nut to tighten down as the nut contacts the header tube before.

So I have two options.

First option is I am looking at a 86 or 87/ dipstick which from the photos I seen moves more forward and mounts off the second manifold bolt which I may be able to tweak the tube or bracket to fit the front most bolt.

Second option is to get a mustang dipstick that I found at Late Model Restorations that claims it has already been clearanced for use on headers. Down side with this is the dipstick lays close to the engine which may make it harder to get to the dipstick than it was with the truck stick I currently have. I may be able to reuse my truck dipstick with the mustang tube if the sticks are both the same length this would give me a longer handle to make it easier to reach. Down side is it appears the mustang dipstick mounts on fourth bolt from the front. I may be able to bolt it all down then grab the tube and tweak it away from the engine some to make it lay away some.

The 87 or 87/ dipstick would be hard to source as there are no reproductions and Jeffs Bronco Graveyard has the tube but not the stick itself, so I am leaning towards the second option and if I go this option I have to decide do I strip the zinc coating off and paint it engine blue/underhood black or leave it in the bare metal with zinc coating.

Sucks because I had everything I need to do fabrication and had plans to paint the dipstick tube and install it. Now I have to wait another week as I have to decide which way to go which most likely will be the mustang dipstick route as I can buy it new vs trying to source a truck one.