Greg 85 Posted April 11, 2020 Author Share Posted April 11, 2020 Some of the early EFI rails didn't have a schrader valve, so that may be what you have. To pull codes you don't need a reader. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Electronic Engine Controls (EEC) and then the tab for EEC-IV and the Checking Codes tab. But, you could be right about a component breaking down. However, anything that would do that would likely be in the ignition system. Have you checked for spark when it runs poorly or doesn't run? Well, i couldn't pull codes, I tried. However I went through the schematic and tested everything. Preformed a full tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil and TFI. Ran better but still shutting down after running 45 mins. Smoking real bad from the back of the engine. I think that is the pvc. Idles at 1200rpm and wen it shuts down the throttle feels like you are floating valves and no power, then dies. I think this is a candidate for a carb swap and mechanical ignition! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 Well, i couldn't pull codes, I tried. However I went through the schematic and tested everything. Preformed a full tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil and TFI. Ran better but still shutting down after running 45 mins. Smoking real bad from the back of the engine. I think that is the pvc. Idles at 1200rpm and wen it shuts down the throttle feels like you are floating valves and no power, then dies. I think this is a candidate for a carb swap and mechanical ignition! Greg - This is obviously your call. But why can't you pull codes? If you could you might be able to save the EFI system. And it is a pretty good system. For proof of that just look at the horsepower and torque specs for the carb'd 302 vs the EFI'd 302. However, if you are sure you want to swap from EFI to a carb we can start listing all the parts you will need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg 85 Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 Greg - This is obviously your call. But why can't you pull codes? If you could you might be able to save the EFI system. And it is a pretty good system. For proof of that just look at the horsepower and torque specs for the carb'd 302 vs the EFI'd 302. However, if you are sure you want to swap from EFI to a carb we can start listing all the parts you will need. I am going to install a new pick up in the distributor tomorrow, its the only thing left that I can think of. Something is breaking down when it gets hot. TFI and coul is new, pick up is the only thing left. Right? Short of the ecm/pcm. I had just about my fill with this truck. I have over 5 invested, had it two years and maybe have 200 miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Greg - This is obviously your call. But why can't you pull codes? If you could you might be able to save the EFI system. And it is a pretty good system. For proof of that just look at the horsepower and torque specs for the carb'd 302 vs the EFI'd 302. However, if you are sure you want to swap from EFI to a carb we can start listing all the parts you will need. I am going to install a new pick up in the distributor tomorrow, its the only thing left that I can think of. Something is breaking down when it gets hot. TFI and coul is new, pick up is the only thing left. Right? Short of the ecm/pcm. I had just about my fill with this truck. I have over 5 invested, had it two years and maybe have 200 miles on it. Yes, a pickup in the dizzy can do it. But, two years and 200 miles - I see why you are frustrated. On the other hand, you have to be CLOSE! Everything is new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Yes, a pickup in the dizzy can do it. But, two years and 200 miles - I see why you are frustrated. On the other hand, you have to be CLOSE! Everything is new. Unfortunately, as many of us know, "new" doesn't necessarily mean "good" But it's exceedingly rare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Unfortunately, as many of us know, "new" doesn't necessarily mean "good" But it's exceedingly rare. Greg, I don’t remember, did you check your coil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Well, i couldn't pull codes, I tried. However I went through the schematic and tested everything. Preformed a full tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil and TFI. Ran better but still shutting down after running 45 mins. Smoking real bad from the back of the engine. I think that is the pvc. Idles at 1200rpm and wen it shuts down the throttle feels like you are floating valves and no power, then dies. I think this is a candidate for a carb swap and mechanical ignition! Greg, I'm going to ask if you've checked the FPR? Do you have (see or smell) any fuel in the vacuum hose? 1200 rpm. idle doesn't sound like no fuel pressure. It also doesn't seem like it could be caused by a failing ignition component. Seems more like a flakey IAC. But I haven't got my hands on the truck. Maybe the computer is damaged? Have you inspected the board for scorches or leaking Caps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg 85 Posted April 19, 2020 Author Share Posted April 19, 2020 Some of the early EFI rails didn't have a schrader valve, so that may be what you have. To pull codes you don't need a reader. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Electronic Engine Controls (EEC) and then the tab for EEC-IV and the Checking Codes tab. But, you could be right about a component breaking down. However, anything that would do that would likely be in the ignition system. Have you checked for spark when it runs poorly or doesn't run? Tune up, new distributor, coil ,tri plugs and wires. Problem still exist. But after hours of searching found out pin #22 supplies ground to the fuel pump relay isn't intermittently. When it messes up, I supplied an exturnal ground and then it started working. Messed up again checked pin22 on the ecm and no ground, added ground and it started working. .i say the ecm has gone bad, what says you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 Tune up, new distributor, coil ,tri plugs and wires. Problem still exist. But after hours of searching found out pin #22 supplies ground to the fuel pump relay isn't intermittently. When it messes up, I supplied an exturnal ground and then it started working. Messed up again checked pin22 on the ecm and no ground, added ground and it started working. .i say the ecm has gone bad, what says you? Check the ECM ground that attaches to the battery negative terminal before you condemn the computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg 85 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Check the ECM ground that attaches to the battery negative terminal before you condemn the computer. I had already added another ground for the ecm as well as all the grounds from battery, chassis, engine and body, cleaned the rest. All mew grounds under the hood with new power cables and solenoid. I plan to pull the ecm tomorrow and crack it open to see if I can see anything burnt up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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