Replacement Exhaust Suggestions

[66gtk]

How many miles?

Amazingly my truck is still sporting the original headpipes at 457,000 miles.

I did weld on new flanges.

I like having a gasket surface for my connections at the muffler.

Jim,

I can't be certain on the mileage. It's been in CA and AZ it's whole life until now. The odometer says 79K and change. My mechanic seems to think everything on the truck is consistent with that mileage, but it's impossible to know. It hasn't been messed with and has most all of it's original parts and configuration, which is why I bought it. I don't like prior owner hack surprises (:

Troy

[ratdude747]

It sounds like you drive your vehicles often, and have salty roads to deal with?

Otherwise, i cant see an aluminized exhaust lasting so short term. When i grew up in NY, you were lucky to get 2-3 years out of an exhaust.

Now that im here in AZ, they last forever!

Stainless is your best bet. But it’ll cost you about 650. For a bolt on. (Give or take).

But it’ll be the last one you buy.

I like clamping my exhaust together in at least 1 or 2 places (depending on vehicle)

This lets future service easier in case exhaust removal is required.

Good luck with your dilemma!

Not too much. Most of the truck is rot-free (other than the lower battery tray). Don't know why somebody bilked the tail half of the exhaust.

This is on the back burner, as I (in another thread) pulled the engine and have that saga keeping me (and my wallet) busy.

[ratdude747]

Not too much. Most of the truck is rot-free (other than the lower battery tray). Don't know why somebody bilked the tail half of the exhaust.

This is on the back burner, as I (in another thread) pulled the engine and have that saga keeping me (and my wallet) busy.

Reviving this thread due to the exhaust becoming a higher priority item.

I finally replaced the bad injection pipe (Found a NOS motorcraft one on ebay for $80 shipped) and re-welded a broken injection pipe bracket back to the downpipe (ugly but functional).

The good news is that fixing such didn't seem to cause any major performance changes. The bad news is that it seems like I have more exhaust blowing out the front seam of the muffler than I do coming out the tail pipe, which makes me think the muffler has blown up internally.

Not sure how I want to go about this. All I know is everything past the cats needs to go away.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Reviving this thread due to the exhaust becoming a higher priority item.

I finally replaced the bad injection pipe (Found a NOS motorcraft one on ebay for $80 shipped) and re-welded a broken injection pipe bracket back to the downpipe (ugly but functional).

The good news is that fixing such didn't seem to cause any major performance changes. The bad news is that it seems like I have more exhaust blowing out the front seam of the muffler than I do coming out the tail pipe, which makes me think the muffler has blown up internally.

Not sure how I want to go about this. All I know is everything past the cats needs to go away.

Is your exhaust 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 out the Cat?

Do you want to dump in front or behind the rear wheel?

I imagine a tail pipe, hangers, muffler and mid pipe could be had for as little as $100-150.

I have been using some Blue Demon stainless flux core in my Horrid Fate Titanium 125 welder.

It welds fine to low carbon steel, and those hanger clips won't fall off.

I have also (recently) converted my little brothers Chicago Electric FC from AC to DC for about $45 in parts. While it doesn't have the variability of mine it does work a LOT smoother now.

[ratdude747]

Is your exhaust 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 out the Cat?

Do you want to dump in front or behind the rear wheel?

I imagine a tail pipe, hangers, muffler and mid pipe could be had for as little as $100-150.

I have been using some Blue Demon stainless flux core in my Horrid Fate Titanium 125 welder.

It welds fine to low carbon steel, and those hanger clips won't fall off.

I have also (recently) converted my little brothers Chicago Electric FC from AC to DC for about $45 in parts. While it doesn't have the variability of mine it does work a LOT smoother now.

All I personally have for welding is a junky 90A Harbor Fright Flux Core (yes, the cheapest welder ever made). Running Lincoln wire in it.

I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be 2.25", and what's welded there is 2"... although I could be off. I'll have to check again.

Looking for a more or less stock look... so behind the rear wheel. Just trying to avoid spending $$$ on some junk that will rot out in 3-5 years and put me back where I started.

[ArdWrknTrk]

All I personally have for welding is a junky 90A Harbor Fright Flux Core (yes, the cheapest welder ever made). Running Lincoln wire in it.

I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be 2.25", and what's welded there is 2"... although I could be off. I'll have to check again.

Looking for a more or less stock look... so behind the rear wheel. Just trying to avoid spending $$$ on some junk that will rot out in 3-5 years and put me back where I started.

I don't have any problems with bolted or clamped joints.

If you worry that it may leak at first, smear a little muffler cement both inside and outside the telescoping tubes.

Buy the best clamps you can.

My system uses 2 1/2 and 3" stainless U-clamps with nickel anti-seize on the threads for the two forward hangers and a stainless rod type hanger with a belled end going into a rubber '8' behind the passenger tire.

But I think hangers should be welded.

And I welded flanges to the front of my muffler so it bolts up with gaskets, like stock.

This is the welder I put a bridge rectifier and capacitor into.

It's not a spattery unstable arc anymore.

[Whisler]

I don't have any problems with bolted or clamped joints.

If you worry that it may leak at first, smear a little muffler cement both inside and outside the telescoping tubes.

Buy the best clamps you can.

My system uses 2 1/2 and 3" stainless U-clamps with nickel anti-seize on the threads for the two forward hangers and a stainless rod type hanger with a belled end going into a rubber '8' behind the passenger tire.

But I think hangers should be welded.

And I welded flanges to the front of my muffler so it bolts up with gaskets, like stock.

This is the welder I put a bridge rectifier and capacitor into.

It's not a spattery unstable arc anymore.

Jim I have a welder like that in your picture and would love to do the mods but I am electrically challenged. How hard was it to get right?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim I have a welder like that in your picture and would love to do the mods but I am electrically challenged. How hard was it to get right?

Really easy.

There are dozens of youtube tutorials.

The parts are not hard to get, either..

[ratdude747]

I don't have any problems with bolted or clamped joints.

If you worry that it may leak at first, smear a little muffler cement both inside and outside the telescoping tubes.

Buy the best clamps you can.

My system uses 2 1/2 and 3" stainless U-clamps with nickel anti-seize on the threads for the two forward hangers and a stainless rod type hanger with a belled end going into a rubber '8' behind the passenger tire.

But I think hangers should be welded.

And I welded flanges to the front of my muffler so it bolts up with gaskets, like stock.

This is the welder I put a bridge rectifier and capacitor into.

It's not a spattery unstable arc anymore.

Welding will likely be involved... whoever hacked it up last time cut it right at the tail of the 2nd Cat... nothing to clamp to other than the rusty junk pipe itself. Which is why I'm beginning to think the local shop will likely be involved... I really doubt my flux core welds will be any good, even if I did convert it to DC.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Welding will likely be involved... whoever hacked it up last time cut it right at the tail of the 2nd Cat... nothing to clamp to other than the rusty junk pipe itself. Which is why I'm beginning to think the local shop will likely be involved... I really doubt my flux core welds will be any good, even if I did convert it to DC.

That's unfortunate.

I know a lot of chain muffler shops weld everything so when the cheap tin can muffler rots out "We have to replace the entire system!"

A decent ground clamp, a big smoothing cap and a $20 200A bridge rectifier will do a LOT for those cheap welders.

I realize it was probably $100 out the door, but I like to tinker.

Once it is hooked up DCEN it can get some penetration and the range switch actually seems to do something.

Try to find a seamless muffler and don't accept any crinkle bent tubes.

If you want a system you can work on later consider getting a pair of collector flaanges and having one of them welded to the Cat.

Then it's just a simple gasket and three bolts to change anything out.

Were it me, I would weld the bolt heads to the flange of the Cat so I could hang the gasket on the 'studs' and had one hand for the wrench and another to position the pipe.

Bronze or brass flange nuts won't ever seize and because they have their own washer a combination wrench won't slip off of them.